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    Cherry tree blossom: revamping old roller shades

    By Irina, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 1 comment, 1,705 views
    Cherry tree blossom: revamping old roller shades
    Roller shades have become a customary part of our homes. Thanks to the huge variety of textures and sizes, they can be easily adjusted to fit into our interior environments. And, should you make some changes to your interior design (I did), you can easily transform them, let’s say, by adding an oriental touch – a cherry tree blossom to remind you of the first rays of sunshine. For this tutorial, I’ll be using a design found on the Internet. I’ll alter it a bit, then cut it out using ScanNCut, and after that add some finishing touches with the help of a stencil.
    Materials
    Two pieces of roller shade material to fit your windows + fittings or two ready roller shades 30 cm wide. ScanNCut machine. Standard mat, 30 or 60 cm long, depending on the size of your design. A piece of paper large enough to fit your stencil. White craft glue. Fabric paints (I used acrylic). A sponge (or a paintbrush). A design. First, I made some changes to the picture I found (a cherry tree branch) in Canvas Workspace (the former ScаnNCutCanvas). You’ll need 2 files, one for making a stencil, and another one for cutting the roller shade.
    Open the image in your Canvas Workspace, go to Image Tracing, and press Color–Preview–OK.


    Select all objects, right-click and press Group. Save the result to a USB flash drive. This is our file No1. We’ll use it to create a stencil.

    Now, we proceed to the pattern for the shade. We’ll only need those objects that are going to be cut. Select all stems on the image and press Delete. Only the flowers should be left. This is our file No2. We’ll use it to cut the roller shade.


    Select all objects, right-click and press Group. Save the result to USB flash drive.

    (In order for the patterns on the shades to differ slightly, I deleted several flowers on the bottom and saved them into a separate file).
    Let’s prepare our roller shades.
    I cut 30 cm from each piece of fabric, thus getting two shades 30 cm wide (because my cutting mat is 30 cm wide). Metallic tubes on top and bottom of every shade should be filed with a mill file. Slide the bottom hem of the shade from the metal tube and detach the cardboard strip.


    Or, you may use a couple of existing roller shades, 30 cm wide each. In that case, you’ll only need to de-tube them and remove the strips.
    Secure the bottom edge of the shade to the mat and do the test cut. (Blade length 5, pressure 4. Other values may be used, depending on the material your roller shade is made of).

    Open file No2 in ScanNCut. Now let’s alter the design a bit: first invert it, then check the size and placement. Cut out your pattern and unpeel it from the mat.



    Repeat with the second roller shade. Change the size and placement of the design and cut.


    Apply some white craft glue to the wrong side of the narrow parts to give them additional strength. After the glue dries, it won’t be visible.

    Cut out a paper stencil, using file No1. Blade length 4, pressure 0.


    Align your stencil with the pattern on the shade and secure it with pieces of an adhesive tape.
    To be on the safe side, I also taped over the flowers, to prevent the paint from getting there. Squeeze the paint onto the paper, dip your paintbrush/sponge into it and start tapping on the openings in the stencil.




    It will take approximately 5 hours for the paint to dry. After that, take away your stencil, attach strips of cardboard to the bottom parts of the shades and insert metallic tubes.



    Attach fittings to the narrow shades and put them up.

    Hopefully, this will add a bit of sunshine into your winter homes.


    The idea for the decoration in this tutorial was found on the Internet.
    Original text by Maria Bespalova

    Sewing three-dimensional letters of the alphabet

    By Irina, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 1 comment, 2,379 views
    Sewing three-dimensional letters of the alphabet
    Three-dimensional letters are very easy to make if you have a sewing/sewing and embroidery machine. It requires very few expendables, a bit of your free time and a good mood.
    Sewing three-dimensional letters of the alphabet. Materials
    For the tutorial, I purchased a set of cute girly fabrics. It contained seven different patterns, of which I chose three, for a five-letter name. Besides fabrics, you’ll require threads, hand sewing and embroidery needles, soft padding material (polyester batting, Holofiber), and, naturally, the machine.


    Sewing three-dimensional letters of the alphabet. Embroidery
    The making of the embroidery design is a piece of cake even for beginners. Choose a font or create your own in your PE Design. Load the design into your embroidery machine, and hoop the stabilizer. Place your padding material (let’s say, 100 g/m2 polyester batting) on top of it. Next, place the outer fabric with its right side up.


    Hit the start button. While the machine is running, hold on to your fabric, pulling it just a little. You can also attach an eyelet for hanging.


    Finish the embroidery.
    Two parts of a letter can be embroidered in one go in a 200x300 mm hoop. In order to do that, copy your design and invert it, using your machine’s editor.


    Trim the embroidered letters around the contours with a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Now stitch them together as shown in this article (coming tomorrow!). Leave a 5 cm long opening for the stuffing.


    Having put your padding inside, sew the opening. You may ask the kids to help you, they’ll probably jump at the idea.

    This is the set of letters I made for a newborn baby. Many happy creations to you!

    Original text by Irina Lisitsa

     

    Sewing essentials. Double stitched seam

    By Irina, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 2 comments, 7,929 views
    Sewing essentials: Double stitched seam
    Double stitched seam is one of the basic seams that are used for sewing shirts, swing blouses, jeans, sport trousers, bed linen, etc. If you only have a sewing machine and no overlocker, no need to worry about it. Thanks to the double stitched seam, both right and wrong sides of your garment will look perfect.
    Ready? Let's go!
    Before you start working on the actual garment, find some leftover pieces of fabric and do some tests. In this tutorial, I’ll be using a piece of middle-weight fabric, but keep in mind that double seam is also suitable for delicate fraying fabrics as cheesecloth and batiste. I strongly advise against using it on highly stretchable knits, unless you’re an owner of a coverstitch machine with adjustable differential feed.
    Creating double stitched seam
    Far left needle position Standard Brother sewing machine presser foot Pink upper thread and turquoise lower thread Blue-colored wavy line on the right side of the fabric Put the fabric pieces with their wrong sides together. Stitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge. To get a nice straight row of stitches, use the scale on your standard presser foot.


    Keep the width steady by using a seam guide on your throat plate.


    In the photo, you can see the two details stitched together from the wrong side. Press the seam allowance with an iron. Put the details with their wrong sides together, circumventing the protruding seam allowance. Stitch at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge.
    You can choose a different value if you want. Play with the stitch width, do several test pieces and decide which one works best in your case. For the purposes of this tutorial, I set the values as follows: ready double stitch width 0.7 cm, seam allowance 1 cm (0.3 cm will be “lost” in turndowns).


    As a result, the wrong side of your garment will look like the one in the photo below. The edge of the fabric is hidden inside the seam allowance. After that, not a single loose thread will escape.


    Press the seam allowance with an iron. Right (the photo above) and wrong sides (the photo below).

    >
    Now all that’s left is to add a finish. It’ll kill two birds with one stone: secure the seam allowance on the wrong side and serve as a decoration. You may add one or two lines of decorative stitches.
    If you chose the latter of the two options, place the fabric under the foot and stitch the first line of decorative stitches at a distance of 0.25 cm from the joining stitchline. For the sake of convenience, you may draw a line with an erasable pen on the foot itself (see the photo).

    Or, you may skip this and proceed to the second line of decorative stitches.

    It will be just as durable, but on the right side, there will be less decoration.
    The second line of decorative stitches should lie at a distance of 0.7 cm from the joining stitchline. Use the scale on your presser foot while doing that.


    All done! You now have two parallel lines of stitches on the right side, and three on the wrong side.





    Original text by Irina Lisitsa

    Placemats with machine embroidery

    By Irina, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 2 comments, 4,930 views
    Placemats with machine embroidery
    Preparing for a holiday, one must take a number of things into account, such as buying or creating presents, inviting guests, home decoration, etc. To make your table look inviting, you’ll only need several pieces of fabric and a sewing and embroidery machine. Sew the placemats and decorate them with machine embroidery that your guests will love!
    Placemats with machine embroidery. Materials
    Outer fabric Inner fabric Between-lay Tearaway adhesive stabilizer Sewing and embroidery threads Placemats with machine embroidery. Preparations
    Cut the 48x38 cm rectangles out of the outer and inner fabrics, as well as the between-lay material. Put them together in this way: first goes the inner fabric, right side down, then the between-lay, and the upper fabric with its right side up on top of it all. Pin the layers together and draw the straight or diagonal lines with the help of a long ruler.



    Using the walking foot with a guide, stitch the layers together along the lines you’ve just drawn. Start with the centerline, and gradually work your way to the sides.



    Placemats with machine embroidery. Embroidery
    Choose a design from the machine’s memory or download one from our store. When you use designs from your machine’s memory (letters, for example), you can change their size up to 20% directly in the machine. If you are in a mood for creativity, and the machine’s capabilities are not enough, you might want to use PE Design.

    Stick a tearaway adhesive to the wrong side of your fabric. Hoop and run the embroidery. 


    After the machine has finished stitching, unhoop the fabric, and remove the stabilizer leftovers. Cut out the pockets or decorations for your placemat. 


    In order to create a pocket for the cutlery, stitch on the seam allowance. Insert a cardboard pattern and gather the thread. Press the cutout with an iron. 


    Placemats with machine embroidery. Assembling
    The pockets can be sewn on with a straight stitch on the sewing machine or by hand (blind stitch). For the neat edges, use the edge stitch foot.


    The details may be attached by a zigzag stitch or any of the decorative stitches.

    Bias binding is good for the edges. You can cut it from the main fabric or you may use the companion fabric to make your bias binding a part of the decoration. To attach it to the placemat, use the edge stitch foot.


    Placemats are easy to sew, and there is an unlimited number of decorations.


    Original text by Irina Lisitsa

    Heart-shaped scissors holder with embroidery

    By Irina, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 4 comments, 2,972 views
    Heart-shaped scissors holder with embroidery
    Want to learn how the simplest design, a couple of stitches and tools make a cute item? This tutorial contains a bare minimum of technique, a couple of tips and a step-by-step guide to creating an original scissors holder shaped like a heart. A gift like this will warm the heart of any crafter. And, if you have a really creative sewer/embroiderer for a friend, who owns lots of scissors, you may even give it to them instead of a Valentine. 
    Heart-shaped scissors holder with embroidery. Materials:
    Sole-colored fabric (non-stretchy) Felt (thick) Tearaway adhesive stabilizer Upper embroidery threads Lower embroidery threads Scissors Machine embroidery design
    Heart-shaped scissors holder with embroidery. The making process
    Prepare the necessary materials. Load the design into your embroidery machine and attach the sole-colored fabric to the stabilizer. This will be our front (embroidered) panel.
    I usually prefer a tearaway adhesive, but in this case, a nonadhesive tearaway will do just as good, as will a cutaway stabilizer. If you use the last one, you may leave it in place after embroidery; in that case, you’ll have a strengthened front panel.
    If you’ll choose to make an entire holder out of thick felt, you may spare the stabilizer altogether.
    The next step is to attach the hoop to the embroidery machine and start the embroidery. Home embroidery machine will make stops for a thread change.

    Once the embroidery is finished, unhoop. Leave the stabilizer in place, if you wish.
    On the embroidered fabric, draw a triangle in such a way that the design fits exactly in its center. Keep in mind the size of the scissors, for which the holder is intended. Before cutting the triangle out, decide whether you will fold the edges or not. If yes, don't forget to leave some fabric for seam allowance (or fraying, as shown in this tutorial).

    Pick up a sheet of paper, draw the triangle and then add two half-circles to transform it into a heart. You may skip this part and draw directly on felt. It is easier to draw on paper, so, if you're not an artist (I’m not), do as I did. 

    Press the paper template to the felt and cut the back panel of your holder.

    You’re almost done. The fabric I chose for my front panel frays a bit. I decided not to fold the sides in order to hide the edges. In order to prevent the upper edge from fraying more than it is necessary for decoration, I add a decorative stitch at some distance from it. Now I join the sides with the back panel. I use threads of the same color as the felt.

    One last thing: I pierce a hole on the side and tie the ribbon in a bow. A piercer came with my sewing and embroidery machine. If you do not own one, use a substitute.

    Voila! Your scissors holder is ready!
    Original text by Mary Stratan
    Pick the design you like from our store! https://embroideres.com/ 

    Sewing in the hoop: An embroidered bag in the shape of a house

    By Irina, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 5 comments, 4,679 views
    Sewing in the hoop: An embroidered bag in the shape of a house
    An embroidered bag in the shape of a house
    For this job, you’ll need:
    A hoop, size 20 x 30 cm A design, size 20 x 30 cm A piece of yellow fabric, size 20 x 24 cm Two pieces of red fabric, size 20 x 8 cm each Two strips of fabric for the eyelets, size 7 x 3 cm each A piece of lining, size 32 x 18 cm Colored embroidery threads High-loft interfacing material (adhesive) Tearaway stabilizer A zipper If you’re going to use a Brother V machine, you’ll need to have the Premium Pack I installed to be able to enlarge the embroidery field to 20 x 30 cm.
    An embroidered bag in the shape of a house. Embroidery
    With an iron, fuse the high-loft interfacing material to the yellow fabric. Place a piece of tearaway stabilizer under the fabric and hoop them together. Make sure that the center of the yellow piece corresponds to the center of the hoop.


    Begin the embroidery. The machine will stitch the outline and make a stop.

    Don’t unhoop; place the red pieces on top. Fuse them to the high-loft interfacing material with an iron, fix the edges with glue and continue embroidery.


    Trim the extra fabric from the scallops and embroider the rest of the design.



    An embroidered bag in the shape of a house. Sewing
    Iron the embroidery and cut along the outline.
    Now create the eyelets. Fold the 14 3 cm strip of fabric in two, stitch along the longer side and turn the right side out. The ready eyelets should measure 7 x 2 cm.


    Fold the strip in two and stitch it to the right side of the fabric with a straight stitch, as shown in the picture.

    Sew the zipper to the upper part of the bag.


    Stitch the lining along the zipper. Fold the bag, right side inside, align the sides. Stitch the sides. Leave 5 cm of the lining for the turning out.


    Fold the lower corners inside and stitch across, 2 cm from the edge.

    Turn the right side out and iron. Drag a cord or a band through the eyelets. It will serve as a handle.



    Original text by Olga Milovanova

    An embroidered tea set for two

    By Irina, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 2 comments, 4,610 views
    An embroidered tea set for two
    Let’s create a cozy atmosphere and sew a tea set. Our set will include two napkins and two teacup sleeves – for you and for your significant other. If you own an embroidery/sewing and embroidery machine, this will be easy for you. A tea set for two might also make a great present for your Valentine. Are you with us? Let’s go!
    For this job, you’ll need:
    A sewing and embroidery machine A piece of linen fabric size 50 x 50 cm Machine embroidery threads Sewing threads Machine embroidery designs An embroidered tea set for two. Embroidery techniques
    Download the designs.
    Design sizes:
    For a napkin: width 76, height 105 mm. For a sleeve: width 164, height 76 mm. Load the designs into your embroidery machine. From the wrong side, press the tearaway stabilizer to the fabric with an iron, then hoop the whole thing. Check the design placement and hit the start button.


    After the machine has stopped, unhoop the fabric, tear away the stabilizer from the wrong side and press the embroidery with an iron.
    Cutting and sewing
    Cut the panels. For a napkin: 45 x 26 cm. For a sleeve: 2 details, 18 x 26 cm each (size of the ready sleeve: 8.5 x24.5 cm). 


    Sleeve: fuse a piece of high-loft interfacing material size 8.5 x 25 cm to the wrong side of your fabric and iron it (do not touch the seam allowance).
    Take a small piece of fabric and fold it on the bias so that it is about 8 cm long. Sew in into an eyelet and pin to the right side of your fabric, 5 cm from the edge. (You may use a piece of round elastic instead).


    Fold the fabric along its long side with the right side inside, pin and stitch on three sides, 7 mm from the edge. Don't forget to leave an opening for turning out. Cut the corners.


    Turn the right side out and iron. Try it on a cup and sew on a button.


    Napkin: trim the edges, pull out threads along the perimeter, 0.5 cm from the edge. All done!


    Original text by Olga Milovanova

    Machine embroidery on leather. DIY bracelets

    By Irina, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 2 comments, 4,645 views
    Machine embroidery on leather. DIY bracelets

    Leather bracelets. Materials:
    A piece of leather or faux leather Dense interfacing material Tearaway nonadhesive stabilizer Temporary spray adhesive Upper thread Underthread Machine embroidery design A needle for metallics or for the leather
    Machine embroidery on leather: Tips
    When choosing a design, pick one that is not too heavy and with satin columns in it. Designs containing dense Tatami fills might cut the leather, causing the design to fall out. For your future bracelet, you can choose any shape you like and draw it in the editor, same way as you do appliqué. As for the stitch types, motifs and lightweight fills, straight single and triple running stitches or designs with loose Tatami fill will do fine. Choose a thin needle with a sharp tip; a thick one would cut through the leather, leaving a big hole in it. Embroidery on leather requires commitment, for it is hard to rip off the already embroidered part, and the holes made by the needle are permanent. More information about embroidery on leather in the article This Mysterious leather. If you're interested in more articles and tutorials on the subject, please don't be too shy to comment! We’ll appreciate the feedback.
    https://forum.embroideres.com/articles.html/articles/this-mysterious-leather-r73/
    Before you start, don’t forget to reinforce your leather with fusible/woven interfacing of a suitable weight!
    Machine embroidery on leather. Method No1
    Choose this one if you have a piece of leather of the same size as the design or bigger.
    Glue dense fusible interfacing to the back side of your leather piece. Hoop the cutaway nonadhesive stabilizer. 
    Sprinkle the stab with a temporary spray adhesive. Stick your reinforced piece of leather to the stabilizer. Load the design into the machine and change your standard embroidery needle for a thin one with a sharp tip, the one you use with metallics. Or, if the leather you’re going to embroider is thick, better choose a leather needle instead. Set your machine to the minimum speed.


    When it has finished stitching, detach the hoop but do not unhoop the leather. Instead, sprinkle the wrong side of the stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive. Stick another piece of leather onto it.


    Wind the upper thread on a spool and attach it to the machine. Install the hoop back on the machine and zigzag through the layers to join them.



    Having done that, remove the hoop and trim the leather along the stitched outline on the right and wrong sides. Cut close to the stitching line.



    Attach the hoop once more and embroider the last part of the design, the satin column.



    Tear the stabilizer along the outline. Singe the stab leftovers with a lighter or candle.



    Machine embroidery on leather: Method No2
    For the embroidery on thin or textured leather, it is crucial to choose the right interfacing material (fusible or woven).



    For bracelets, shirt collar interfacing will do splendidly. It is very dense and won't tear even when embroidering on a piece of thin leather. Lightweight sewing interfacing materials for the delicate fabrics or knitwear are not suitable for the job.
    The second method is handy whenever you have a small size piece of leather that should fit into a chosen shape. Load the design into the machine and attach the hoop.
    Embroider the outline and the first color of the design. Spray the stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive and press the piece of leather to it in such a way that it covers the stitched outline.
    The rest is done in the same way as in Method No1.



    Machine embroidery on leather. Assembling
    In the corners of the ready bracelets, poke holes for the eyelets, using a pair of pliers or a hole punch. Insert the eyelet into the holes.



    Pick up a grommet/eyelet setting tool and insert the eyelets.  



    Once they are ready, drag a chain with a clasp through them.


    Enjoy your bracelets!


    Original text by Irina Lisitsa

    How to embroider small items of clothing. Hooping tricks

    By Irina, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 3 comments, 3,645 views
    How to embroider small items of clothing. Hooping tricks
    Whenever there is a need to embroider small items of clothing, such as future pockets or cuffs, and your machine only has one hoop, these hooping tricks will do the job. There are several ways of hooping a small item, and in this article, I’m describing two of them. Either one will get you a beautiful high-quality embroidery.
    The first way of hooping a small item is to glue it to the tear-away adhesive stabilizer. Just what you need for not-too-heavy designs and small monograms. Adhere the item to the stabilizer and hoop in the usual way; the adhesive will secure the fabric in place and prevent shifting during the embroidery.



    The second way is to hoop the fabric itself. Suitable for smaller and bigger items alike. This is called the fabric extension method. You’ll need a few strips of extra fabric (calico, for example). Stitch them to the main fabric with a straight stitch about 5 mm long.  



    After that, it is advisable to press seams with an iron to make them flatter. Adhere the stabilizer to the wrong side and hoop the item.



    If you're an owner of a Brother Innov-is le sewing and embroidery machine, you can use the built-in camera for the exact positioning of the design.
    This is very handy whenever the accurate placement of the design is crucial, such as while working with checkered or striped fabrics.
    How to use the built-in camera
    Press the Fabric scan key to view the location of the pressing foot on the LCD screen. Pick one of the positioning stickers that come with the machine and affix it within the embroidery field specified by the machine.  



     
    Take away the sticker and your hands and wait for the machine to perform the scan. Now the pattern can be viewed in the Embroidery Edit screen, allowing for the better positioning of the design on the hooped item.  


    When the embroidery is finished, remove the stabilizer leftovers or rip off the extra strips of fabric and iron the item on a soft underlay, right side down.



    Original text by Irina Lisitsa
    Don't forget to buy some lightweight designs from our store!
    See also:
     

    Monogram pillow: a tutorial

    By Irina, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 3 comments, 3,364 views
    Monogram pillow: a tutorial
    A pillow with an embroidered monogram is a home textile classic. It makes a wonderful wedding, jubilee, christening or no occasion gift. Pillows are wonderful for machine embroidery beginners who want to learn the machine embroidery basics and practice to acquire the necessary skills. This is a brief guide into making the embroidered monogram pillows.
    Monogram pillow. Materials
    Fabric Zipper Braided cording with lip Machine embroidery design Cutaway or tearaway adhesive stabilizer Water-soluble stabilizer (optional) Upper thread Underthread Monogram pillow. Cutting
    For a pillow size 40x40 cm cut two squares of side 43 cm. I used non-stretchy upholstery fabric, dense but with a pronounced twill weave. Before you start working, you should finish the edges of this fabric with the serger, in order to prevent fraying.
    Monogram pillow. Embroidery
    Adhere the stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric. Find the center of each side and draw the crosshairs. Their point of intersection will mark the center of your future embroidery. Hoop your fabric. Attach the hoop to the machine and cover it with a layer of thin water-soluble film (in case the weave of the fabric is a pronounced one).
    Select the basting stitch and stitch the water-soluble stabilizer to the fabric.
    Hit the start button and embroider your design. You may pick a sole-colored or a multi-colored one or embroider a multi-colored design without changing the upper thread color.



     
    Some embroidery/sewing and embroidery machines have an option of monochromatic embroidery. Peruse the manual that comes with your equipment to use its capabilities to the fullest.


    Having finished the embroidery, remove the stabilizer leftovers.

    Monogram pillow. Cording
    Round the edges of your pillow a bit. Stitch the cording to the right side of your pillow, along the edges. To attach the cording at the corners, make small incisions so that it lays more easily.


    Stitch it with a special cording foot or a zipper foot.


    Original text by Irina Lisitsa
    Don't forget to visit our shop to buy some lovely monograms!
    See also:
     

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