Original text by: Irina Lisitsa
To demonstrate the process of making an openwork embroidery I chose two-thread french terry, because this type of knitwear is stable, trimming distorts it very little, and therefore, is perfect for this machine embroidery technique. You can do this on any sewing or embroidery equipment. The making process is the same as with openwork and cutwork embroidery on any other fabric. This master-class will help the beginners to understand that embroidery on knitwear is not all that difficult.
• Knitwear fabric (0.3 mm two-thread french terry)
• Tearaway adhesive, either Stiffy 1860B or 1640B
• Water soluble film
• Upper thread
• Machine embroidery design (download or buy one from our shop)
Openwork: The making process
Stick a tearaway adhesive of an appropriate density to the wrong side of your fabric. Hoop the stabilized fabric and turn in the screw.
Embroider the first color of your design (usually it is the stitch, which will outline the future design and mark the areas that will be cut out.
Take the hoop off the machine and make small incisions in the center of an embroidered area, using scissors, a razor blade or a ripper, then cut away the bits of fabric with scissors.
Put a thin layer of a water soluble film on top of the fabric and secure it with pins.
Be careful not to put pins into the embroidery area.
Set you hoop into your machine and continue the embroidery.
After having embroidered the design, remove the stabilizer leftovers from both the right and wrong side of the item. Press the embroidery on the wrong side, on several layers of terry towel, so that the embroidery would preserve its density and not become flat.
Your openwork on knitwear is now ready!
If you are reading this article, it means that your interest for machine embroidery has overcome the beginner stage, and you have decided to master the embroidery software to choose the right one for creating cross stitch patterns. A lot of manufacturers, in order to increase embroidery editor capability, add a software module that allows creating cross stitch patterns and saving them into the formats recognized by the embroidery machines. What are these software products you'll learn from this article.
I want to bring to your attention the fact that in this review I only point out those software products that allow creation of cross stitch patterns for embroidery and sewing and embroidery machines. Also note that you'll find only the widely known software products on this list, for I skipped the lesser known ones.
Creation of the cross stitch patterns
Creating cross stitch patterns for embroidery machines, on one hand, is the easiest of all digitizing tasks, but on the other hand, the most complex one. It depends on the principle of creation: whether a designer will work with ready patterns or create the new designs completely out of his head or using the images (such as photographs) of his own.
Fortune favors a designer that has decided to try and digitize a ready pattern. There is no need to think about such design characteristics as basting, density and pull compensation. There is no need for using imagination to convert a photo into a cross stitch pattern. One just needs to figure out what types of cross stitch there are in hand embroidery, which ones can be created in the software, and after having mastered the tools, to create stitches one by one.
A designer that wants to create cross stitch patterns from images or photos has to face all the problems with color scheme, stitch types and their size. This requires a creative approach and artistic thinking.
To be through with the embroidery software once and for all, you need to understand that it comes in standalone editors and also built-in modules. I don't want to throw my weigh around and influence your decision, and yet I want to make some comments about the usefulness of various software products.
The software for creation cross stitch patterns falls into two main categories:
Of all the software meant for creation of cross stitch patterns and conversion of the files into the format recognized by embroidery machines we can single out two products:
• PatternMaker for CrossStitch
• CrossStitch Professional Platinum
Both of these software products were designed for creating hand embroidery cross stitch patterns, and only later the manufacturer added an option of saving the result in a format recognized by an embroidery machine. Although both of these editors were designed for creating hand embroidery cross stitch patterns and have practically all the tools for creating machine embroidery designs, in my opinion, CrossStitch Professional is slightly superior to PatternMaker. Notably, the latter of the two lacks an option of saving most of the special stitches (cross stitch) into a format recognized by a machine.
Both software products work with scanned patterns as well as process images automatically and create designs with the help of the tools.
Nearly all big embroidery editors have additional modules that allows creating cross stitch designs. Sometimes they come as an in-built solution, sometimes you need to buy them separately.
Embird (bought separately) has an automatic conversion tool, and also an option of fitting the scanned patterns into the open documents to make the process of creation more easy. You can also create cross stitch patterns with tools. Conversion of the special stitches is present.
Wilcom ES – has an automatic conversion option, is able to create cross stitch designs from scanned pattern and has tools for object creation. There is also canvas changing option and the possibility to set the stitch count. The capabilities of the software are sufficient for creating cross stitch patterns, but one would wish more operational comfort.
Bernina ES (in-built) — practically the same as Wilcom ES.
Digitizer MBX/Pro (bought separately) — practically the same as Wilcom ES. They cost about $160-200 each.
PE Design (in-bulit) – this software had an automatic conversion option, and you can also work with scanned patterns. Creation of the cross stitch patterns with the help of tools is not the best here.
Compucon EOS — automatically converts images into cross stitch patterns and also has tools for creating objects with cross stitch fill.
Tajima DGML by Pulse (in-built up to v. 14) — starting form the next version there is no automatic conversion tool. The software only has a tool for creating objects with motif fills and also one for creating cross stitch lines.
Which software product to choose for creating cross stitch patters, is entirely up to you!
Original text by: Lena Craftwork
Sometimes you need to add a nice edging to an item. There are many ways to do it, and we will see one of them here: creating a lace edging. You can decorate a napkin, a handkerchief or any other item with lace. There are numerous FSL machine embroidery designs; choose the one that suits you and matches your item.
Water soluble stabilizer
Fabric for your napkin
The process of creating a lace edging goes like this:
1. Hoop the water soluble stabilizer. Load your design into your embroidery machine. Begin embroidering. The first stitch will mark the position of the edge of fabric on stabilizer.
2. Add a layer of spray adhesive to your stabilizer. Stick your fabric to the stabilizer according to the outline and repeat the embroidery using the first thread color. This will secure the fabric in place. Then continue your embroidery and do the lace part.
If you created your design using special software, the embroidery will go along the fabric edge and also at the corner. To decorate other parts of the napkin repeat the same thing joining the lace parts together. Hoop water soluble stabilizer and embroider using your first thread color. Place the second corner of your napkin onto the stabilizer, and secure it there.
3. Repeat the embroidery along all the remaining edges.
4. Cut the stabilizer near the edge of your embroidery. After the work is completed, wash your napkin with a lace trim in a sufficient amount of warm water.
The napkin is ready. You can decorate a tablecloth or a handkerchief in this way, too.
General Information for placement
When using the charts included in this document, the measurements are based on the following places to measure.
(A) is the distance from the shoulder seem wear it meets the collar, down to the middle of the design.( is over from the center of the garment, if it has a zipper or buttons it should be measured from their.
All measurements are in imperial system ( inches )
Recommended standard designs for a left chest should be around 2.25 inches high by 4.5 inches wide.
Shirts with Pockets
When working on garments that have pockets you may want to ignore the normal way of measuring as the design may not look appropriate. I center the embroidery design above the pocket usually about .5 inch and limit the design to a maximum of 2 high if not it will look to high on the shirt. Center it with the button hole on the shirt.
When referring to the documentation its noted on the gender as this will impact the placement, typically its 5-7” (women) 6-9” (men) and 4-5” from the center.
( A ) DOWN ( B ) ACROSS
Men S 6” 4”
Men M 6” 4”
Men L 6 1/2” 4 1/2”
Men XL 7” 5”
MenXXL 7” 5”
Ladies S 5” 4”
Ladies M 5” 4”
Ladies L 5 1/2” 4 1/2”
Ladies XL 6” 5”
Ladies XXL 6” 5”
Crew Cut Sweaters or T-Shirts
There is two places to sew embroidery designs on sweaters or T-Shirts, left chest or center of the chest.
( A ) DOWN ( B ) ACROSS
Men S 6” 4”
Men M 6” 4”
Men L 6 1/2” 4 1/2”
Men XL 7” 5”
Men XXL 7” 5”
Ladies S 5” 4”
Ladies M 5” 4”
Ladies L 5 1/2” 4 1/2”
Ladies XL 6” 5”
Ladies XXL 6” 5”
Center The center of the embroidery design should be parallel to where the bottom of the sleeves on tight fitted sleeves, on larger or loose sleeves the embroidery design should be 2” above the bottom of the sleeve.
When placing a design on the back , remember to adjust the designs location so the hood doesn't hide it. but on the front you can measure.
( A ) DOWN ( B ) ACROSS
Men S 6” 4”
Men M 6” 4”
Men L 6 1/2” 4 1/2”
Men XL 7” 5”
Men XXL 7” 5”
Ladies S 5” 4”
Ladies M 5” 4”
Ladies L 5 1/2” 4 1/2”
Ladies XL 6” 5”
Ladies XXL 6” 5”
Center The center of the embroidery design should be parallel to where the bottom of the sleeves on tight fitted sleeves, on larger or loose sleeves the design should be 2” above the bottom of the sleeve.
When placing design on jackets take time to look for garments that have the embroidery pocket , it allows for most machine embroidery designs to be embroidered on left or right side. Looks professional when completed, and less chance of the hoop popping off and or hitting a zipper.
( A ) DOWN ( B ) ACROSS
Men S 6” 4”
Men M 6” 4”
Men L 6 1/2” 4 1/2”
Men XL 7” 5”
Men XXL 7” 5”
Ladies S 5” 4”
Ladies M 5” 4”
Ladies L 5 1/2” 4 1/2”
Ladies XL 6” 5”
Ladies XXL 6” 5”
General rule for jacket backs
When working on jackets you will need to also know where to place some larger embroidery designs on the back. This will depend on a few variables.
Partial back 6 x 10” design 4” down
Full back 10 x 10” design 3” down
When working with caps you should make sure that the design has been made to stitch from the center out, designs that haven't been digitized for this will often push off of center. Except when you get customer that want them off center.
Depending on the type and size of your cap frame will depend on how large your designs can be, it also will depend on the cap your using. Average embroidery designs are 2.5" H and 4.5" W
When embroidering logo on the back try to curve them to match the back curve of the cap, use a regular hoop for hooping. The Design should be 1.5" H x 3." W they can be large if the cap supports them.
When working on any special materials there is no set rules on where you can place it, however you have to be able to hoop it, I often sew on the front side of a hoodies 1 inch in, I use the Hoop tech clamping system which allows me to clamp very hard to hoop items including some of the following bags, towels and carpets straps and many other items.
When sewing on bags you will need another method for clamping them. Here are some locations where you might sew some embroidery designs. Typically I make the design , 3.5” W x 4” H but it can be longer if the embroidery logo fits..but try to center it to the best of your ability.
If you would like to use the software to see if the design will fit , you have the option of viewing hoops in your embroidery digitizing software.
In here you can pick the different styles of hoops.
Embroidery Digitizing is a method to decorate the overall look of the design or material. The methodology starts when the art-piece is turned into a digital format and then the compatible software works on it to enhance the visibility and corporate image. After that, the design is read by the embroidery machine, turned into the graphic format and in the end; the machine embroiders the artwork efficiently. The techniques and methods take whole lot of efforts and expertise to get the job properly done.
Now comes the question that in which category, does Embroidery Digitizing go to? Well, the simple answer is that it is a mix of both as only one characteristic between these two cannot be used to describe it. As technical as it looks, embroidery digitizing is basically an art as well.
Embroidery Digitizing as Art:
This embroidery method is all about understanding and learning about how the artwork is going to be designed and what should be the color combination. The look of “natural flair” is always taken as the priority because just like every art, beauty only shows when the product gives away natural flair. Along with that, the artistic touch and sense are also required when several things are decided, such as the patterns, vectorization and the decision of filling the blank spaces. The appropriate coordination of colors and shades is also important as well.
Digitizing for embroidery is a kind of art procedure that definitely demands loads of things in terms of expertise of engineering, energy, motivation, material and performing the art in right direction. If it would be all about technical know-how, then it is not important at all to make so much effort to providing the best color schemes and making the designs look natural, which is the basic portion of embroidery digitizing.
Embroidery Digitizing As Technical Skill:
Along with being an art, it is a technical skill mainly because of the usage of the digitizing software, which is the most important part of the method. While making the use of the software, the optimum utilization of other tools is also of real importance so to ensure other factors, such as to make a correct number of stitches and not make them too dense etc. All of such considerations definitely need technological skills and understanding. There are times when the exact size and shape is needed, but not provided so the critical skill set is also required there to make sure that the design is made into the right size.
So now you understand that embroidery digitizing is basically a combination of both art and technology that blend together to provide the high-quality embroidery experience to you & your clients. As stated above, it is both the art and the skill, so if you want any of your art piece embroidered and digitized, make sure that is gets done professionally by the service providers who are already the experts of this business. This work only looks good when it is done in excellence, which can only be achieved if the practitioners stay in business for quite a while.
All in all, you're taking a gander at getting sewing machine surveys a fresh out of the box new sewing machine? It manages without asserting that obviously, you wish to guarantee that you get the best sewing machine for you - the one that is going to suit your prerequisites.
All things considered, preceding you go on and make your buy, it's a shrewd thought dependably, to do a tiny bit of study furthermore a touch of heart looking to really get clear in your psyche precisely what you require furthermore exactly the amount you expect to contribute.
By taking this tad bit of time and setting in a touch of thought before giving over your hard made bucks, you could help to ensure that you ration yourself from the aggravation of having a machine that does not do what you oblige it to do and the conceivable monetary strain, that can be made later on by over contributing on your fresh out of the plastic new machine. So permit's begin with the two key worries to ask all alone:
To start with - How much would you like to contribute?
This is a really crucial worry to ask all alone preceding gaining your sewing machine, else you may find yourself escaping in a fantasy universe of sewing open doors and also spending route more prominent than you can figure out how to on your fresh out of the plastic new machine, abandoning you fiscally reached out and also lamenting your buy later on - when the happiness regarding your new toy has slowed down. Sewing machine rates can vary from as meager as $30 to $1000's contingent on the limits of the machine.
So pick what is the ideal amount of cash you consent to contribute and afterward find a machine that will unquestionably do precisely what you fancy it to - inside your rate range.
Second - What are you going to utilize your living arrangement sewing hardware for?
Why do you crave a sewing machine? Is it only to heal furthermore repair administrations? It is safe to say that you are thinking about doing somewhat standard sewing? On the other hand, would you say you will do a lot of sewing? Making pieces of clothing, doing knitting or specialties?
On the off chance that you just wish to do some standard sewing or repairing then you'll no doubt require a hardware that does the major lines, for example, straight fasten, crisscross and conceivably a couple substantially more which accompanies an essential presser foot, potentially a zipper foot and additionally a catch opening foot.
An essential machine, for example, this will surely empower you to do repairing, repair function and also some fundamental sewing if that is exactly what you crave.
In any case in case you're considering doing substantially more perplexing sewing employments or utilizing your sewing machine a ton, then it will be justified regardless of your while to get an a great deal more unpredictable machine that has more options coordinated in, for example, an expensive determination of implicit lines, programmed switch holing and included reward offer machines, for example, distinctive particular presser feet that could make testing exercises simple.
There is some exceptionally modernized sewing hardware offered today that simply make life significantly less confounded and make sewing exercises so much faster. Decisions, for example, one activity catch openings, where whatever you do is associate the right presser foot, press the perfect catches furthermore away it goes - the machine does everything for you. Speedily furthermore rapidly.
Different choices, for example, computerized threading that may not seem like a colossal arrangement, however when you're modifying cotton routinely, could be a lifesaver! These sorts of capacities can ration a group of time furthermore make you a lot more productive. In case you're planning on doing a lot of sewing, these sorts of components will empower you to accomplish more in a shorter time which is something to be thought about.
In this way, have a consider exactly what you mean to accomplish with your new machine, the amount you need to contribute and subsequently concentrate on different models to locate the absolute best sewing machine for you!
Hi all! Hoping for help. I’m doing a cap. Six letters offset to the left side on the cap. The beginning of the word is 1/8” lower than the last letter. It’s sewing uphill. How do I get the last letter flush with the first?
I try embroid a minie file buyed on Embroidery designs collection shop in my new embroidery Brother Innovis-NV800E with hoop 260x160 and the border of pictures and the colours doesn't match.
When I buy the minie file, it was possible download a "winnie the pooh" free file and when also I try embroid pooh file happens the same of minie file
To Embroid I used the pes file, but i also try pec and phc files and happen the sames always.
Exist any problem with the files? or exist any configuration i have wrong on my machine?,
Anyone know what could be the problem?
thanks for the help,
Machine embroidery design management
When you enter into the embroidery business you will soon learn individual ways to track and organize your embroidery designs, some people use a specialty program, a filing systems on your computer, a database and other. Today we are going to take a look at organizing your designs with Librarian. This tool has been around for a while, while it has some limitations its a great tool for searching for designs.
What is Librarian
Librarian is a single user database that has been built into Tajima DGML by Pulse since version 11, the main structure of the database has not changed much over the years. This database allows you to store your PXF or a wide range of other stitch files. This database allows you to enter in information about the embroidery designs from vendor, special notes, it also keeps track of size, colors and more. You can search by a wide range of topics and or view the designs by image. It depends on how much type you want to spend setting it up.
Where is librarian , it can be found at the top of your screen and is available on a wide range of levels..
This tool is one of the most ignored tools in your software, when I worked with Tajima Pulse most customers did not know that it existed or what it could do for them, not to mention that it also comes with the option of a 1000 machine embroidery designs to start up with. While the designs are free its up to you to add them if you want them. When opening your software for the first time and you open librarian it will prompt you to choose a BLANK Database or PREMIUM Database, If you choose blank it will not show you any designs until you add them , if you choose premium database it will give you 1000 machine embroidery designs.
If you click on the Librarian tab at the top of your screen you will get a menu similar to the one I have illustrated below.
Open Design This allows you to visually view the embroidery designs in your database.
Search This allows you to search by various fields if entered
Save Design Manual way to add machine embroidery designs from your workspace to librarian
Save Design as Same as above but allows you to make a different version of another design.
Groups You can store embroidery designs in groups to catalog the embroidery designs easier
Favorites Allows you to set embroidery designs up as favorites for quick reference
Database info Path to the database for backing up and seeing how large your database is
Import A option for mass loading your designs, however it doesn't enter any additional data
Rebuild icons Sometimes the database will loose some image files, this option rebuilds the image files.
Multiusers This is only available to users that purchased the items.
Setting Librarian UP
Prior to setting up your librarian for the first time you will need to make sure you have permission to allow your system to right to restricted areas of your computer. Librarian needs permission from your windows to access this area. Contact your local distributor for help with this if needed.
When you click on the Open option in Librarian menu you will get the following screen .
This screen is a bit confusing for some while it may seem like you can choose the various options, you need to setup your librarian to use these features, the easiest method for this window is leaving everything as default and clicking open., There one option you may want to look at the datatype, this will also depending on what file types you have in your database.
The types included all embroidery files, stitch designs like DST, PSF and home embroidery formats, Outline files like PXF, POF, chenille embroidery designs and outline chenille designs.
Stitch Files Stitch files do not retain the color information in embroidery designs, and have limitation on sizing and editing
Outline Files These are the best files to save to librarian as they save all the editing information, and color info of designs, just like saving them to your system
Chenille files are only available if you have a chenille embroidery machine.
When you click open it will show your digitized embroidery designs in your window, depending on how large your window is will depend on how many designs it shows, also dependent on how many designs you have in the database as well.
Opening a embroidery design
To open a machine embroidery design you can just double click it and it will open up in Tajima DGML or you can right click to get more options, The main option you likely to use is the properties tab, but you can play around with the other options as well.
GENERAL TAB This tab will tell you basic info about the design, including when it was made, name of the file,
Design TAB This tab will show you information about the design including, Designer ID, Customer, Design dimension, stitch count, number of colors, number of trims etc.
User Tags Optional, I have used these tabs to hold customer information, you can also add notes or special instructions to the file as well
Color Information This tab will show you the color information of PXF and PSF and POF files but not dst files
Attachments Optional, I use this if I store a customer logo , I attach the original artwork to the database file
Groups Optional, you can add (1) embroidery design to several different groups. Dog design can be added to a Dog group or an animal group.
This option is listed as Import , but its basically a option of loading multiple designs at one time. This is a very taxing process for the computer as it has to generate alot of information for your files, You should do this when you do not need the machine for any other embroidery digitizing software task.
To use this option click the file types you want to add, choose the location where the embroidery designs are and click next and it will begin uploading you may also get a note that your embroidery program is not responding, ignore this and come back later.
When its done your screen will go back to the original window, Now you can go back into Librarian and see the machine embroidery designs you have added,
Now if you the import option you will need to add other details to each file if you want to know the vendor etc.
Searching Embroidery Designs
If you mass load , you will not be able to search all the fields, unless you edit each file. when you search for a machine embroidery design you can search by the following criteria
Design ID Optional , this needs to be manually added
Customer Optional , this needs to be manually added
Description Optional , this needs to be manually added
General Key Optional, but rarely used
Status Default is Production
Designer ID Optional , needs to be added
Customer Optional , needs to be added
Desing Dimensions Size of the design
Atributes Stitch Count, colors, trims, jobs etc,.
There are some other tabs but blank by default If you want the information to be all added its best to add designs as you use them , or several a day in your free time.
When learning to digitize half the battle is knowing how to use the tools and what tools to use to get a desired look. Whether you have a basic digitizing level or the highest level possible if you do not know how to use the different tools you are no further ahead. In this blog we look at using the basic tools, including the RUN tool, satin tool and fill tool.
I consider these the most simple of design as your only using one tool. When you get a grasp for this tool then you can start adding additional types of strokes ..
If you have a some punching tools usually you will have the most basic of stitch tools in Tajima Pulse they call it a RUN Stitch however its a basic stitch , you place the points and set the stitch length, If you can learn to punch embroidery designs with this you will be able to add more detail with fewer stitches, and if you get good at it you can make a whole embroidery design with no trims.
Here is a simple outline of a cat and dog dancing in the rain. You should be able to digitize this embroidery design with just the run tool. I would set the stitch length between .07 and .10 sometimes shorted on smaller detailed areas.
The run tool should produce a stitch similar to the one below , basically its gets tacked down by the bobbin embroidery thread at specified by the stitch length,.
In the Tajima Pulse branded embroidery software you have another option on some levels it called a manual stitch this allows you to control the stitch length as it makes a stitch when you place each point, this is also known as stitch by stitch digitizing and is considered old school as you have control of each stitch.
When looking at the image shown above you need to start at a place and try to finish at another place, If your new to embroidery digitizing I recommend you get in the rabbit of punching from the bottom up, and out from the center, its usually not a problem for left chest design but caps require it to reduce the push of the embroidery design. If you do it on most of your embroidery design it won't seem like a problem when you punch designs for caps and jacket backs.
You will see a graph on the image 1 this is how I mark my designs to give me reference lines. Some people can eye ball it with out the lines.
Above in image 3 you will see where I have placed my points there is no set way you have to draw it the only thing you have to try to do is to keep the stitch length above .02 inch going smaller sometime will automatically get truncated by the software, Here is what the embroidery stitches look like zoomed in and out images 4 and 5.
The smaller the stitch length the sharper the corners and the more detail however it also increase the number of stitches in the design, so generally its a balancing act, Some times you may need to retrace your steps , in order to minimize trims.
Take your time, map it out if you can ,and omit any detail that is too small to reproduce, you may also need to place more gaps in between the stitches than what you would need if you were printing this. I recommend at least 1 to 1 1/2 stitch widths.
Halfway point of the design Image 6
When your down punching the design Image 7
Now you should be able to compare image 1 and image 7 before and after to see if you like the amount of detail that you have added. Now you can take this design and if you want add some satin or fills to it. Image 8
Or you can go 1 step further and make it a full color designs or leave it at a one color design.
If you sew out the outline version no fills, you only need to add underlay to the satin style of stitches, if you add the fills in you will need to add a contour stitch to the fills and a lattice to and add some compensation to the fills and satin stitches, the run style stitches or programmed runs do not need any underlay or compensation.
Author: Frank Prokator
The present focused market calls for imaginative ways to deal with advancement of custom embroidery services. From imaginative introductions to simple to-explore online web stores to stunning IT administration frameworks, we give our clients the ability to broaden their corporate marking activities and surpass their showcasing objectives. Also, our far reaching request preparing and satisfaction administrations enable them to stay concentrated on their center business while our turnkey operation deals with the difficulties of the advancements and satisfaction business.
Considering your alternatives for custom attire, embroidered clothing conveys a fundamental feeling of value that addresses the intuitive of customers and clients, giving a sentiment trust and fulfillment.
Advantages of custom embroidery:
It gives you a professional appearance.
It can be put on a wide assortment of materials.
It lasts longer (doesn't wear off like silkscreen paint does).
It can be washed easily.
Large amount of shades are accessible in it.
Some typical examples of custom embroidery embroider clothing are:
Hoodies – flexible for a scope of icy climate outside work.
Sweatshirts – like hoodies, a sweatshirt is extraordinary to keeping warm and agreeable.
Fleeces– Zipped fleeces are a decent hindrance against unforgiving conditions.
Shorts – In summer, shorts for men and ladies are accessible to keep cool.
Action Trousers – A more down to earth and hard wearing other option to brilliant pants.
Body warmers – Another extraordinary expansion to icy climate work.
In some areas of leisure you will find niche markets, I have found one being able to make custom carpets for custom cars and sport fishing boats. So if you live near the water this is something you may want to offer, or if you have any car clubs in your areas. First you need to make a sample and bring it to car shows etc, or display it at your local dealers.
Hi have done mats like the like the item Below, this was actually done for a young kids room.. As it was not going to be exposed to elements I was able to use some applique in the embroidery design.
I have made over 20 specialized customer carpet sets for sport boats , custom cars and some other client that like items on carpets. I am also trying to break into the yacht market and embroider on carpets and seat covers.
This is a niche market and I don't normally have standard pricing as you have to run your embroidery machine a lot slower it will take you twice as long to sew the designs, you will also go through more needles as once your done the job the needle are basically garbage, I would also recommend cleaning your embroidery machine between jobs the carpets give a fine dust that will get into the bobbin area when sewing. I have a small compressor right by the machine for blowing of the parts and lubricating. Most of my sets of carpets for a car go $250 to $400 and only quote on carpets for the trunk, I did one custom van and I had 5 carpets to do and I charge the customer $1200 for the job.
When embroidering on carpets, you should be aware that conventional hoops will not be able hoop a carpet & that your embroidery machines arms will not support the weight on its own. I would recommend if you have a table raise it up to support the carpet. I use large clamps metal clamps to clamp it to the bottom sides of the embroidery machine arms, I found if you clamp it to the top it will stress the needle too much.
I also recommend the following tips for sewing on carpets.
Use a 80/12 Titanium needle with a sharp point as regular needles will get dull from punching through the carpet backing.
All designs must be digitized for carpets as there are special requirements for the embroidery designs .
Slow your machine down to a minimum of 400 rpm
If its a Plush carpet please use topping this will prevent the presser foot from catching the nap of the carpet and or pulling out a strand or fiber of the carpet.
Shave the outer edge of the carpet to prevent the nap from folding over the designs makes it look cleaner I use a Peggy stitch eraser
If you want to sew you will either need to have the embroidery design made for carpets, keep in mind that you may run into problems if the embroidery design is not made properly.
I purchased a used Merro embroidery machine to make custom carpets to fit the application and allows you to purchase bulk carpet for the application, If you have to purchase carpets that are customer made for the vehicle you will have to get in contact with the vendor.
Another options is to sew through the rubber backing however doing this requires a great deal of patients and often frustrate you more than not however it can be done, If you consider attempting this you will need to use 110 needle and 40 weight polyester thread and slow your machine down. In addition between carpets check for needle damage and clean the needles blow of the dust from the embroidery machine. You also will need a industrial sewing machine for this option.
Remember anything is possible however there is a learning curve when venturing into new areas.
Original text by: Olga Ionova
This master-class will tell you how to do cutwork embroidery. Cutwork embroidery has its own aspects, and if the design is beyond the hoop so that you have to join its parts together, the amount of the aspects doubles. This master-class will tell you how to do cutwork with alignment and border designs without the special hoop, but with the help of alignment stitches instead.
Cutwork embroidery. Materials:
• Fabric or an item to be embroidered
• Tearaway stabilizer
• Water soluble stabilizer (film)
• Upper thread (white)
• Underthread (white)
Cutwork embroidery. The making process
Prepare your fabric. Iron it and press the tearaway adhesive to the wrong side.
In keeping with the design do the marking. Mark the fabric in accordance with the plastic pattern of your hoop.
Tightly hoop the fabric and the stabilizer. You can add pins, too. Cutwork embroidery design must include several colors, which will mark the places for your machine to stop.
The first color will be a Ran stitch, also zigzag may be added. Having embroidered the first color, stop the machine and take the hoop off.
Marked are the areas that will be cut out. These are always enclosed areas.
Don't unhoop the fabric! It must stay in the hoop.
With the help of scissors cut away the areas inside the objects from the stitching, trying not to damage it. Use the stork embroidery scissors or the ones that were specially designed for cutwork.
Put a layer of thin water soluble stabilizer on top of the fabric and secure it with pins. Set you hoops in your machine run the embroidery with the second color.
The embroidery consists of finishing the open areas with zigzag stitches and later with satin columns, while water soluble stabilizer is used as a substitute for the fabric. It holds the fabric and the cut-away details together.
The order of cutting and finishing depends upon the programmed sequence. The details here should be cut away and embroidered one after the other.
Embroider all the details as was described above.
Embroider all the elements of the design.
Cutwork embroidery. The alignment of the elements
When embroidering borders or repetitive design patterns you have to do the alignment. Therefore, draw the central line while doing the preparations. To get the exact match between the different parts the design must contain the alignment stitches and crosses (dots and lines). In the first part of the embroidery they are embroidered the last. The alignment spots marked violet on the photo.
If you add the alignment crosses by yourself (it can be done in any embroidery software editor), mark them with different color from that of the last part of the design.
You can mark the places where the needle will hit the alignment crosses by moving down the balance wheel, but not perforating the fabric. This works extremely good for leather.
The last part of the embroidery before next may include tacking down the first object of the part that will be hooped next. You can use this stitch as an additional alignment mark.
Cutwork embroidery. Rehooping
Take the embroidered detail out and press it flat, moving the iron carefully up and down. Never use steam!
Hoop the next part of the fabric to be embroidered in accordance with the marking and the hoop pattern.
Set you hoops in your machine and make sure that the first is the color of the alignment crosses. All alignment spots must match! You don't have to embroider them, just move the balance wheel down and see if the needle hits the marks.
After that the embroidery will go as was described above.
Having completed the embroidery, unhoop the fabric. Cut away the excessive water soluble stabilizer on both right and wrong side.
Tear away the tearaway adhesive stabilizer.
Wash the water soluble stabilizer in the warm water until it will go off completely.
Dry the embroidery until it becomes only a bit wet.
Press your embroidery on something soft like a folded terry towel covered with a thin cloth. Press the embroidery flat in up and down motions only! Never move an iron side to side or back and force.
Original text by: Katya Ebber
Your hoop is not one-size-fits-all. You become acutely aware of it when you need to embroider lace ribbons or edgings. This master-class will tell you how to align machine embroidery designs with lace so that the joining places could not be seen. This master-class shows working in the embroidery design software (creation of the alignment crosses), and also the embroidery process.
Preparing the design in Embird
Load a chosen machine embroidery design into Embird. Add the alignment stitches and half stitches at the top and the bottom of the design. Copy and flip them vertically. Having added the alignments stitches, change the order of steps in the embroidery, dragging the objects in the objects bar, and also change their color. The main objects should be located between the top and the bottom alignment stitches.
Click 'Paste' in the toolbar. In the pop-up list choose 'Basting' and define the stitch length. After you click 'OK' the guide stitch will be added to specify the design's position in the hoop.
How to align machine embroidery designs properly
Load the prepared design into your embroidery machine and embroider the first color, according to the chart you added in the software.
Hoop the water soluble stabilizer and embroider the first design (001).
Alignment stitches are embroidered with the last color of the design. They will be used as marks for linking this part of the design with the next.
Having embroidered the first design, trim away the water soluble stabilizer near the embroidery.
Hoop water soluble stabilizer again and embroider first two colors of the design (the guide stitch and the alignment crosses). Remove the hoop from the machine and add a thin layer of spray adhesive. Using a short pin, join the center marks of the alignment crosses on the embroidery parts and on the water soluble stabilizer.
Do the alignment stitches without the thread to check if the hooping went right. If all the crosses and stitches match, begin the embroidery. If the alignment crosses do not match, repeat the alignment process as mentioned above.
This method is good for many items where you need to embroider a repetitive pattern. We have embroidered lace today, but if you need to do the edging of the table cloth or curtain, this method will work just as good. Use tearaway non-adhesive stabilizer for fabrics.
Original text by: unknown
Everything has its reason, and it is good when these reasons can be analyzed and understood and mistakes prevented before the material has been hooped and stabilizers, fabrics, threads and, what's most important, time have been wasted.
Are you familiar with the situation when you overexert yourself, but all you get is an ill-looking embroidery with objects dislocated and the fabric pulled? How to prevent it?
On the quality of machine embroidery
Problems with a design
One of the reasons of a bad embroidery is a low quality design. The main signs of the low quality design are: the lack of basting where it is needed, large quantity of stitches that are too short or too long, and also Tatami fill, which is the result of an automatic processing (90% of the designs created automatically are of poor quality and can be more or less normally embroidered on dense, well-stabilized fabrics).
If you come across such a design, the result will most probably be deplorable.
The reason for this are the mistakes made by the designer in the process of digitizing a design or the ones made by the user in the process of altering it.
Identify a low quality design
How to do it? In future, when you gain sufficient experience, you will discern problems in a design at the first glance.
Problems with embroidery technique
You have made some mistakes when preparing a design and then embroidering it, which resulted in a work of poor quality. Like using a stabilizer in a wrong way or embroidering a design on a wrong type of fabric. For example, a beginner may embroider a dense design on leather. As a result, the embroidery may just fall out, because numerous needle perforations will separate the embroidered piece from the rest of the fabric.
Another embroidery technology mistake is loose hooping.
The choice of a needle also may influence the quality of your embroidery. This particularly concerns embroidery on thin knitwear or such materials as leather, faux leather, upholstery fabrics and coated fabrics.
Sure, you won't always have to put up with fabrics that give you problems, but you need to consider fabric+needle+thread in any case.
For example, beginners and even experienced embroiderers often encounter a problem with embroidery on a perforated fabric or knitwear, because a thin and sharp embroidery needle only cuts the threads up. You should use a thin ballpoint needle for knits when working with such fabrics.
Leather, especially cordovan or the the thick one used for belts, should be embroidered with leather needles, and the use of designs such as Blackwork or Redwork, where stitches are sparse, is preferable.
Disregard for the rules of embroidery making may lead to a disagreeable result. For example, in case when a thin film, which is intended to be used as an upper stabilizer, is used as an underlay for a fabric or a main stabilizer for lace.
Preparing for embroidery you should choose your stabilizer properly and carefully read the manual.
A very common mistake is to hoop the fabric in a wrong way. When the fabric is loose, there are creases and cramps on it. And of course, you'll get a defective result, even if the design is good. To get a neat embroidery, with an even fill and without any creases and shifting of the details, you need to press the fabric beforehand, in order to stabilize it properly, to straighten the fabric in the hoop (try not to overdo it!) and to tighten the hoop screw so that the fabric would not move.
Another mistake made by many embroiderers, especially those who just begin to learn the technique by themselves, is embroidering a dense design on knitwear. Despite using a stabilizer an embroidery does not look good, because the fabric is pulled at the edges, and the embroidered area is much more rigid than the rest of the fabric, to the point where it seems like a piece of wax. If you have embroidered right on the item, without doing a test piece first, your favorite pullover or your client's jacket is ruined.
To avoid problems like that choose the fabric that matches your design in density.
Problems with equipment
If your machine breaks the thread
• The main reason for it may be an accumulation of thread fragments and lint in the tensioner and also the dirt under the throat plate.
Take off the top that covers the lamp (you won't lose your guarantee, but will be able see everything inside) and inspect your machine carefully (you can use a magnifier). If you find fragments of threads and other litter, remove them.
• One more reason for the thread breakage is the poor quality of embroidery threads.Try the threads of some other brand and see how they work in your machine.
• The third reason for thread breakage are needles. The needles need to be replaced from time to time, because they wear down. It's not very economical to replace them often, but if the thread breakage continues, it's time to do it, because there may be a burr in the needle's eye.
• Also the thread may break because of adhesive. Even adhesives specifically manufactured for machine embroidery may, if applied in large quantities, stick not only to the fabric, but to the needle, too. Lint accumulates, the thread gets stuck in it and breaks as a result.
Clean your needles with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol and try to apply less adhesive in future.
Too much stabilizer
In some cases, such as embroidering a painting, you need it to be very dense, but a thin stabilizer or several layers of printing paper, which is used by many money-saving embroiderers, adds friction, so when the thread goes through a lot of layers, it becomes frayed and eventually breaks. What is the most unpleasant, the thread may be in this state for a while, and the machine won't signal its breakage, and the embroidery will be done incorrectly for a long time.
This won't happen if you choose a stabilizer of an appropriate density.
Too loose or too tight upper thread or underthread tension may have a negative impact on the quality of the embroidery. Underthread may show on the right side and ruin the look of your design. You need to regulate it, either by yourself, following the instructions in your manual, or with the help of a service engineer.
Loops on the wrong side usually appear when the upper thread is loose because it did not get between the tension discs. Some models have their own way of threading: in some the foot must be up, in the others — down.
In order to fix it you need to rethread the machine, in accordance with the manual.
The automatic trimming between the objects does not always have a good impact on the design. For example, it's better not to trim a cross-stitch design that has numerous individual crosses lying very close to each other. In case of automatic trimming the you'll get a thick fringe of thread ends and the machine will have trouble embroidering.
Each case requires a unique approach, depending on the design, and you should turn down the automatic trimming option if needed, either in the software or in the machine.
This is an incomplete list of embroidery technique irregularities and the reasons for low quality output. Beginners sometimes get rather inventive. Nevertheless, if you read this and learn to avoid some mistakes, the success is guaranteed.
We wish our readers to accomplish only the best quality while embroidering!
Question: For some reason this will not completely install and I've tried several times. I'm using windows 10 with 4 core processor and 8 GB of ram and over 400 GB of free space. I have No issues downloading other programs so it must be some sort of problem with the program I believe. I hope someone else can confirm this.
Support answer: Please try the following: 1. Clean up all temp folders. In an explorer’s address bar type %temp% press enter.
Delete all files that are allowed to be deleted.
2. Go to C:\windows\temp Delete all files.
3. Disable you antivirus software and try to make a new installation.
This step by step instruction for free machine embroidery design
Hardanger is based exactly on the same principle as cutwork. Hoop the fabric together with the water-soluble stabilizer.
With the first color, you embroider the outline to mark the area where the holes will be cut. After that, without making a stop (to avoid extra knots), add a zigzag stitch on top of the outline. Having done that, take the hoop off the machine and cut holes in the outlined area, trying not to damage the stabilizer (Image 1).
Second color – a laced net is added in place of the cutouts (Image 2).
Third color – it's recommended to use the thread of a matching color here in order to create a drawn fabric effect (Image 3).
With the fourth and the fifth colors, the design itself is embroidered, ending in a zigzag border. After that, you need to take the hoop off the machine and trim the fabric along the edges of the embroidery without touching the stabilizer (Image 4).
Sixth color – a decorative stitch is stitched along the bottom part of the design (Image 5).
Seventh color – lastly, the lips, nose and cap are embroidered (Image 6).
Original text by: unknown
Every embroiderer has been in a situation where an embroidery machine that was running smoothly only a day before, suddenly begins to break the upper or the underthread almost every stitch. Such a problem, in case you eliminate the possibility of mechanical breakage, is connected with certain processes, and also with the quality of the embroidery materials you use in your work. If such a situation occurs, try to solve the problem yourself before calling a service engineer. In this article we tried to describe possible problems and their solutions, ranking from the easiest to the complex ones. Resume the embroidery process after having done this or that, to check if the problem has disappeared.
Why does the thread breakage occur
1. Upper thread
Tension regulation. Check your upper thread tension. Often the reason for the thread breakage may be too tight a tension.
Wrong threading may be the reason for thread breakage, too. In this case rethread your machine in accordance with the manual.
An upper thread of poor quality. If breakage occurred after replacing the upper thread, get back the bobbin you used before that. If breakage stops, buy embroidery threads of some other brand.
Rayon thread. This thread often causes thread breakage trouble for beginners. Threads literally "leap off" the bobbins. This problem is very easily solved. Place a grid on the bobbin case and reduce the embroidery speed.
Metallic thread. When working with this thread use a special grid, set a needle for metallic threads, and also reduce the embroidery speed.
The wrong size of the bobbin. However strange it might seem, such a problem exists. Check your manual to see what type of the bobbin is recommended for your machine.
Wrong winding may become the reason for thread breakage, too. In this case unwind the bobbin and rewind it after that.
Wrong threading. One of the common reasons for thread breakage. Carefully read that section in the manual that describes how to insert the bobbin, and do accordingly.
Thread thickness. One of the well-known reasons for thread breakage. Some of the sewing-embroidery machines just won't work with a very thin bobbin thread. In this case you should get a thicker thread.
All sewing and embroidery threads have their own thickness, determined by the number. The greater the number is, the thinner is the thread, and vise versa. For example: An upper thread #200 is thinner than #30
Glue particles adhere to the thread and the needle, holding back their movement, which causes the thread to break. If that's the case, stop the machine, clean the needle with alcohol, and rethread. Repeat every time your thread breaks until the embroidery will be completed.
After that refrain from using this particular type of adhesive stabilizer or spray adhesive in your work.
On the internet you can find many recommendations on the original use of various materials. You can count the use of double adhesive tape and sewing stabilizers, which are not manufactured specifically for our purpose and may cause thread breakage. The problem itself, together with the solution, was described above.
If the cleaning does not help and the thread continues to break, stop the embroidery and change the stabilizer.
A bent needle, burrs and a blunt needlepoint may also be the reason for thread breakage. In this case change the needle to a new one.
Also if the needle type is wrong for the particular kind of fabric, this may lead to the thread breakage, too. Read the information on how to choose needles, in our future articles.
In some embroidery machines the bobbin case used for the embroidery is different from the one used for sewing. If you have encountered the problem with thread breakage, check the one that is currently in use.
Burrs on the bobbin case are often the reason for the thread breakage. Take out the case and inspect it. If there are burrs and scratches present, polish them with a soft abrasive cloth. When it will be possible, buy a new bobbin case.
Scratches on the throat plate caused by the needles hitting it may lead to the thread breakage. Inspect the throat plate from above and from below, and if you find burrs and scratches there, think of buying a new one.
Avoiding pit falls of working with Caps
When dealing with your customers you may need to educate them on what the placement and size of the logo for your particular machine is, as often the customer will want the designs to be too large for the cap frame. Some cap frames can accommodate a 270 degree rotation and some only do 180 degrees, the height will depend on the hat.
Rule 1 , Placement
The designs should be places 1/2 inch above the brim of the hat this allows the needle to clear the metal bracket that holds the hat to the frame.
Rule 2 , Size
The size of the embroidery designs for the front for most hats should be less than 4.5 inches wide and no more than 2.75 inches high.
Some caps will allow for larger areas.
Rule 3 , Backing
Its very important to have precut sheets of tearaway backing, I recommend buying in a roll and should be med to heavy tearaway for caps.
Rules 4 , Embroidery Design
The embroidery designs should be made for caps, this will eliminate the push of sewing to the middle. All text should be design to sew from the center out, ( In Tajima Pulse their a tab called sew direction for setting this ) The embroidery design should be made specific for hats.
Rule 5 , Speed of machine
I recommend slowing your machine down to 600 spm when embroidering on hats, this will help reduce distortion,.
Rule 6 , Needles
When working with hats you may experience higher number of needle breaks as some caps, like the flexfit caps seem to have a hard ridge in the center of six panel hats, using an 80/12 needle will eliminate some needle breaks.
Ridge on Six Panel Caps
When working with six panel hats that are structured and feel thick in the center of the hat , there are several methods for making it easier to embroider on.
Method 1 Water
With a spray bottle wet the front of the cap where your embroidery design is going to be, this will make the material more pliable and easier to work with.
Method 2 Heat
With a hat press you can pre-press the area where you need to put the embroidery logo on this will soften up the areas specially on the seams.
Alternate Placement Brims
Often you will get request to place logos on other areas of the hat, and you may have seen designs embroidered onto the brim of the hat, this is only available on custom hat orders where they embroider the design on the material before adding the brim and sewing the hat.
Alternate Placement Sides of hats
This various methods for placing logos on the side of hats, however your limited to the hoop fitting on the side often the brim will get in the way of hoop large than 3.5 inches, so your designs should be no large than 3 inches wide. You can get around this by using specialty hoops,
Alternate Placement Back of Hats
This can be done with a standard 4 inch hoop and works with a wide range of styles, Often you will need to arc your text to match the contour of the back of the hat depending on the style.
Check with your hat vendor many of them will have a custom hat program or pre made hats with logos embroidered on them . Usually a minimum order is required for custom hats to be made. I deal with AJM International or Headwear and they both have custom hat programs.
Master-class by: Irina Lisitsa
Beginner owners of embroidery machines are at a loss when overlooking the vast majority of stabilizers. This series of master-classes will teach you the basic rules of hooping of various types of stabilizers. After having read this you will be able to hoop an adhesive stabilizer (Filmoplast) in the right way. This type of stabilizer allows you to secure fabric with a layer of adhesive. Works good for fabrics of high and medium density, and also fabrics that cannot be hooped, like leather, chamois and coated materials.
How to hoop Filmoplast
We will need:
Put the stabilizer with its paper layer facing up. Mark the borders of the hoop.
Cut a piece of stabilizer, using the marking on the paper layer.
Put it on the outer ring with the paper layer facing up.
Put the inner ring onto the stabilizer and press it down.
Pull the edges of the stabilizer to smooth it out. Screw your hoop tightly.
Put the plastic template on the hoop and mark the borders of embroidery area with a marker.
Outline the borders of embroidery area with a marker or use the markings on the stabilizer.
With the sharp end of scissors cut the paper layer along the lines.
Take off the paper layer of stabilizer, to free the sticky side.
Stick your fabric onto it.
Embroider your design.
When the embroidery is completed, take the design off the stabilizer.
Original text by: Irina Lisitsa
Embroidery on knitwear requires the use of supplementary machine embroidery materials. You have to embroider a knitwear jacket ASAP, but all the specific stabilizers have run out? You may replace them with a piece of cloth that does not stretch, thin organza for example.
This method is good for designs with loose fillings or made with columns, because organza will preserve the structure and prevent the stitches sinking into the fabric.
Embroidery on knitwear. Materials:
Machine embroidery design
The top stabilizer, a water soluble film
A piece of organza, big enough for hooping
Embroidery on knitwear. A step by step guide:
Hoop a piece of organza, like you hoop embroidery stabilizers. Spray it with adhesive, then mark the center of your design on an item or fabric.
Stick your item on your organza piece. Add a piece of thin water soluble film on the top so that the embroidery on uneven-surfaced knitwear would come out neat, and the stitches wouldn't sink into the fabric. Set you hoops in your machine. Run the basting stitch first: this will join all the layers together and will hold the fabric in place while embroidering. Run the embroidery.
After the embroidery is completed, remove the basting.
Tear the water soluble film from the right side of the item and carefully remove the organza pieces between the embroidered objects. The work is done.
Your embroidery on knitwear has been completed successfully!
Original text by: Marina Belova
Suddenly it struck me that marking the position of an embroidery design on fabric before hooping is a major stumbling block to me. Is is so because I often get fabrics and garments that cannot be marked with a leftover sliver of soap or even with a disappearing marker. Another reason for the issue being of such a great importance to me, because I don't have any magic device for positioning of the hoops and most probably won't have one in the nearest future. I mean one of those.
In the course of my embroidery career I've learned several ways of marking various types of garments manually. Some of them were successful, others turned out to be a disaster; there were ones requiring a great deal of sweat and those that didn't require much time.
Let's begin with the least successful ones.
Marking with a pencil. When I was just a beginner (and I started working with fabrics rather suddenly) I made this mistake. I marked the fabric with an ordinary pencil. And of course, I had to do it all over again, the cutting and the embroidery, because it turned out that the marks made with ordinary pencil do not wash off.
Marking with a tailor's chalk. I can tell from experience that marking your fabric with a chalk is not really a good idea, because it leaves traces on some types of fabrics.
Eventually I gained sufficient experience having changed several jobs that involved dealing with unique designs on very expensive fabrics, which were extremely tricky to mark. It took a long time, too, not just because marking itself is quite a task, but because the size of the fabric was usually 3X3.5 m. So we used the following ways instead:
Marking a position with pins: first the center of the embroidery and then a couple of dots on X and Y axes. This is one of my favorites, because it is the quickest and never leaves any traces. But it's not always good. It is very handy when using a single needle Classic embroidery machine, which has a correction angle allowing for the machine to adjust to the fabric hooped rather haphazardly.
Creasing all the necessary lines. A highly questionable operation, because it leaves crease marks on many types of fabric which could not be corrected with the help of a steam iron. Nevertheless, it can be used in some cases.
Using special markers which disappear when exposed to light. I should point out that in my opinion the best disappearing markers are the cheap ones made in China. They make a thinner line that disappear more quickly then branded markers such as Madeira. But! They left an unwashable trace on several types of fabrics such as 100% cotton, which left me with a thought that one should test everything before using it.
Using markers easily erased by water. Well, they should be erased by water. It is not a problem in case you are going to wash your handiwork in future, but what if you don't? We used to carefully wash off the marks with a tampon, trying not to leave splotches. The thing is that some manufacturers use such a strong pigment (Hemline for example) that we had to do it 3 or 5 times, because after the fabric had dried off the marks appeared again.
There are, of course, special erasers used with these two types of markers. But to buy both the marker and the eraser is not really cost-effective.
Soap. A sliver of soap is very good: the outline can easily be washed off with water and removed with steam, too. But there is a fly in the ointment: first you should find the brand that does not leave greasy splotches (and even soap without additives can do that), and when you find one, it may not be possible to use it on the specific type of fabric. I found this out when working with natural silk.
And now, encore: basting.
Basting is the best way to mark your embroidery. Yes, I mean the one done with a plain needle and thread along the lines on the back of the fabric (if you have such a possibility, you'd better use your embroidery machine instead). Sometimes you cannot avoid a laborious job of drawing lines and basting. There were times when such an elaborate grid was needed for multiple hooping and lining up the elements of a design on the garment that it took me 4 or 5 hours to do the marking. But this method can be used wit practically every type of fabric including silk and silk velvet, which can damaged just by looking at it. And what won't one do to achieve a good result.
Luckily, I haven't been working with a piece of a fabric about the size of a football field for some time now. But the question of placement and marking an embroidery remains one of the most important to me. I mostly work with similar garments nowadays, but the place for a design changes all the time. Up to a certain point in time towels and bathrobes made from terry cloth were my biggest problem. As they were mostly white, soap was out of question, because it would not be visible. Besides, the texture did not help much. That's why I made an outline with a disappearing marker and washed it off with water afterwords to make it disappear more quickly. But the terry cloth is a fabric of volume and bulk, so I had plenty to wash off, because the traces appeared again once the fabric was dry.
Once I was surfing the internet and stumbled across this photo where all the marks were made with writing pencil over the removable adhesive tape. This is how it works: first you place your garment onto the hooping device and do the hooping, then remove an adhesive tape and embroider.
So I tried applying this to a terry cloth. It proved to be very handy, especially when embroidering a design in the corner of a towel, which is not very easy to place into round or square hoops. To embroider a corner in such a way is not the easiest task, but even to place it into the hoops is a problem. That's why I use frames when embroidering towels. Placing an unmarked fabric into the hoops is a skill I am yet to master. Though I'm not very eager to do so, because I have embroidered an incorrectly hooped garment in the past (I didn't know the proper way then).
So, I need to embroider quite a big design in the corner of a towel.
1. I stick a piece of adhesive tape in the area where my marking is going to be.
2. Then I measure out all the distances and draw the lines.
3. Frame the fabric or the garment.
4. Trace it onto the fabric, then remove the adhesive tape.
5. Embroider a design.
6. Then I mark the back of a bathrobe before hooping.
You can use it for a big embroidery in the middle of a towel, too.
That's all that is to it. You don't have to wash the marks off. Of course, you have to deal with adhesive, but it is only a trifling matter in comparison.
One more way to mark your fabric is to use a tool called an alignment laser. It projects a perfect crosshair onto any surface you like.
To find the perfect center you should cut out your design pattern and place it onto your garment sprayed with a removable adhesive.
Even if you misplace it slightly, you may always adjust the hoops.
And what do you do use to place a design onto the fabric? Share your placement tips and tricks, please. Did something escape my attention?
If you want to engage in embroidery on a professional level, you should buy a reliable embroidery equipment with manifold possibilities that won't fail at the most crucial moment. Melco Bravo is a highly efficient 16-needle embroidery machine designed for amateur embroiderers turned professionals.
A distinguishing feature of this machine is that it provides maximum efficiency for it's price. Melco Bravo allows you to embroider high quality designs on garments, hats, bags and large variety of textile products. Thanks to a smaller lower cylinder arm you can embroider on a wider variety of products while maintaining high speed.
Acti-Feed™, the patent system of active thread supply automatically adjust the thread tension and provides smooth working process without any thread breakage. BRAVO OS, the embroidery machine operational system, controls the thread tension and it's supply by providing a portion of thread needed and basing thread-tensioning upon three separate parameters for every thread regulated by piezotransducer. The better-quality embroidery is made on high speeds because of the lesser thread breakage. The system also allows you to embroider on some types of fabric without the use of the underlay.
Melco Bravo is an embroidery machine with manifold possibilities for doing business.
The small diameter cylinder arm allows you to embroider on various products, including the areas hard to embroider and also wider designs on caps. Cylinder hoops allow you to embroider on smaller areas, such as pockets and shirtsleeves, and also children's garments. The use of laser positioning mechanism will enable you to position you design properly.
Download Melco Bravo brochure
Melco Bravo comes with DesignShop Lite, a professional embroidery design editor. DesignShop Lite allows you to scale, mirror and rotate a design, edit it's main characteristics, such as density, type of the underlay and shape of the hoop, and also work with the text.
Embroidery is always in trend. Embroider with Bravo!