Original text by: Nata Beloshveika
Many of you have received big orders for t-shirts embroidered with logos. Sometimes rehooping takes more time than the embroidery process itself. I mean, the embroidery has to be in the same place on all items, if possible.
So what do we do? Should we do the measuring and marking every time? But it is quite a laborious task, and boring, too.
A solution exists! I want to show you my way of doing it.
Embroidery on t-shirts. Materials and tools:
- A t-shirt
- A machine embroidery design
- Upper thread
- Double-sided adhesive tape
- Printing paper
- Embroidery stabilizer (Filmoplast)
- A ruler or a triangular
- Tailor's chalk, design knife, scissors
Embroidery on t-shirts. The making process:
I create all my designs by myself.
Previous to the beginning of the embroidery I run a guide stitch 5-7 mm away from the contour. Hoop one layer of printing paper. Run the guide stitch without a thread. Carefully cut out a window in the paper along the stitches with the knife. Stick a double-sided adhesive tape around the perimeter of the window. Take off the first layer of adhesive.
Now I'm going to mark out the placement of my future embroidery on the first t-shirt. To do this I measure the front side and mark the bottom left corner of the design with the chalk.
Onto the marked t-shirt I put a layer of printing paper in order to create a template for hooping other t-shirts. I draw all the necessary outlines there — neck hole, shoulders, arm-holes (for small size t-shirts, because the L-size ones will not fit into the A4 format), central line or placket line for a polo shirt. Also I mark the left corner of my future design with the cross.
Then I put the hoop on top of it, so that the cross on my template would be exactly in the lower left corner of the hoop.
This is important!
You should make sure that the hoop lines to the template and the t-shirt — check horizontal and vertical marks (vertical are very handy for checking against the knitwear loops), so that it would not move.
Then I trace the hoop contour (it's better to use a felt pen to make the lines visible of the wrong side of the template) and cut out the template along the construction lines (neck line, middle, arm hole). The template is ready! All of this has been a preparation job. Now we proceed to the hooping.
I cut a piece of filmoplast, so that it would cover all the adhesive tape frame. Stick it onto the adhesive tape, take off the protection layer.
I take the t-shirt inside out and put the template on top of the left (!!!) half of the t-shirt. Then I superimpose the neck hole, the central line and the arm-holes. Put a hoop on top of it (with the layer of adhesive facing down), superimposing the hoop and the template.
Carefully remove the template from under the hoop, so that it would not move. Once again carefully (the hoop must not move in relation to the t-shirt) fold the t-shirt around the hoop — first the sleeves and then the bottom.
Then I turn the whole thing over and stick filmoplast to the t-shirt, smoothing it out with one hand. Carry it to the machine, without turning it right way round.
Having unfolded the hoop on the side where the screw is, I set the hoop into the embroidery machine, smooth out the t-shirt under the foot and turn it the right way round to open the embroidery area.
Now I begin to embroider. After having completed I take off the hoop from the machine and carefully unstick filmoplast from the adhesive tape.
And after that I begin this all over again — stick filmoplast into the hoop, put a template on the t-shirt, stick the hoop to the t-shirt and embroider. All this is done very quickly and the result is of a high quality. I wish you the same!