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olive

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About olive

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  1. It has paid for itself. Anything that you buy in the price range you are looking at will be serious crap. If you are serious about succeeding in the embroidery industry you will invest in quality equipment.
  2. Wow! That is fantastic. I just recently listed my PR-650 with stand (still new in the box, never assembled), hat driver (only used twice and still in box), all the original manuals, tool kit, 8000+ designs on CD, etc. for $5300.00. Hope mine sells as fast.
  3. Properly adjusted, both machines should produce the same stitch quality. Beyond that, it's ease of use and ease of service. We're considering selling/trading one of our Brother PR600's and going to the 10 needle mainly for the camera - we've been doing a bunch of split front designs and being able to place the design more accurately could really save us a lot of time. We also need a wider sewing field than the PR600 and the 10 needle 8x14 inch frame would solve both issues.
  4. The fast frames seem to be an easy alternative but i just dont see where having to clip the material to the frame would be better than simply clamping it in and stitching.
  5. Thank you!! I actually just found a video on youtube showing one. I believe I will be ok purchasing the small one being the only large frame embroidery i plan on doing is large cloth bags or polo shirts. What do you think?
  6. I am running a Melco amaya Xt. i have successfully figured out the software and how to hoop simple item such as shirts. Now the tricky orders have started to be presented and im in need of guidance. i need to be able to "hoop" item such as a clutch purse, a hand bag, a backpack, a rain jacket hood, a pocket of a tshirt, and especially beanies. Of course these items will not be hooped in a standard 9 12 15 or 18 hoop. I have spent countless hours on youtube as well as google and the forums but i just dont have the right answer.
  7. I am running a Melco amaya Xt. i have successfully figured out the software and how to hoop simple item such as shirts. Now the tricky orders have started to be presented and im in need of guidance. i need to be able to "hoop" item such as a clutch purse, a hand bag, a backpack, a rain jacket hood, a pocket of a tshirt, and especially beanies. Of course these items will not be hooped in a standard 9 12 15 or 18 hoop. I have spent countless hours on youtube as well as google and the forums but i just dont have the right answer. Thanks,
  8. Yes, you should do a test swatch again. Mainly because every design is digitizied differently and will produce different results based on the fabric it is being stitched on, the stabilizer being used, needle used, etc.. .
  9. Are you using a fusible or non fusible No Show Mesh cut away stabilizer? You could try using 2 layers of the No Show Mesh stabilizer as that will hold more stitches. One layer of the No Show Mesh stabilizer will hold around 8,000 stitches. If it is the No Show Diagonal Mesh stabilizer it will hold around 12,000 stitches per layer depending on the type of stitches. 2 layers will support twice as many stitches.
  10. Truly, I did not heard of any more JEF format problem. Probably they do not happen in exporting design in the DST format. It might be format problem and on this, circumstances write to Dusan explaining the happenings. You need to take two-pronged approach if it is same for DST format. Please, write to Dusan for getting something for your MB4. It may be the fault of your machine also.
  11. Digitizer 10000 is so old and hard to run current version MBX 4.5. In cheaper rate you can get Digitizer Jr and able to upgrade it. By the way, it is not stylish but it is easy to use.
  12. 350 E and Customizer 1100 have also got same problems. Previously, I thought of scanning the logo of business card to get a clean outline to digitize it. It looks like tile mosaic drawing and force forever for me to clean it.
  13. Personal preference is associated with stabilizers. But, I love using TEAR away. I apologize to mentioned cutaway previously. Flap of fabrics stuff making you scratch the away is due to cutaway. Fusible is helpful in making iron and then tear it to finish the embroidery.
  14. Oh! Yes. I did not mention you about thread sock using. Just hang from the top of the spool on the end of the thread of you spool-after it slide the sock over the spool which makes the thread coming out of the top. This makes it ready to use.
  15. Clear to say, I really haven’t heard of those Polyster one. If your machines stick on it, it is better to try another one. You mentioned about Sulky and Gutterman and it is problem creating. But, I do not seem so. I also bought Madeira and it is working absolutely fine. Recent thread which I bought was from DBS and look I don’t think it is problematic. You should go to the store and brands which you trust more and notes the problem you face.
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