Jump to content

olive

Members
  • Content Count

    71
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by olive

  1. It has paid for itself. Anything that you buy in the price range you are looking at will be serious crap. If you are serious about succeeding in the embroidery industry you will invest in quality equipment.
  2. Wow! That is fantastic. I just recently listed my PR-650 with stand (still new in the box, never assembled), hat driver (only used twice and still in box), all the original manuals, tool kit, 8000+ designs on CD, etc. for $5300.00. Hope mine sells as fast.
  3. Properly adjusted, both machines should produce the same stitch quality. Beyond that, it's ease of use and ease of service. We're considering selling/trading one of our Brother PR600's and going to the 10 needle mainly for the camera - we've been doing a bunch of split front designs and being able to place the design more accurately could really save us a lot of time. We also need a wider sewing field than the PR600 and the 10 needle 8x14 inch frame would solve both issues.
  4. The fast frames seem to be an easy alternative but i just dont see where having to clip the material to the frame would be better than simply clamping it in and stitching.
  5. Thank you!! I actually just found a video on youtube showing one. I believe I will be ok purchasing the small one being the only large frame embroidery i plan on doing is large cloth bags or polo shirts. What do you think?
  6. I am running a Melco amaya Xt. i have successfully figured out the software and how to hoop simple item such as shirts. Now the tricky orders have started to be presented and im in need of guidance. i need to be able to "hoop" item such as a clutch purse, a hand bag, a backpack, a rain jacket hood, a pocket of a tshirt, and especially beanies. Of course these items will not be hooped in a standard 9 12 15 or 18 hoop. I have spent countless hours on youtube as well as google and the forums but i just dont have the right answer.
  7. I am running a Melco amaya Xt. i have successfully figured out the software and how to hoop simple item such as shirts. Now the tricky orders have started to be presented and im in need of guidance. i need to be able to "hoop" item such as a clutch purse, a hand bag, a backpack, a rain jacket hood, a pocket of a tshirt, and especially beanies. Of course these items will not be hooped in a standard 9 12 15 or 18 hoop. I have spent countless hours on youtube as well as google and the forums but i just dont have the right answer. Thanks,
  8. Yes, you should do a test swatch again. Mainly because every design is digitizied differently and will produce different results based on the fabric it is being stitched on, the stabilizer being used, needle used, etc.. .
  9. Are you using a fusible or non fusible No Show Mesh cut away stabilizer? You could try using 2 layers of the No Show Mesh stabilizer as that will hold more stitches. One layer of the No Show Mesh stabilizer will hold around 8,000 stitches. If it is the No Show Diagonal Mesh stabilizer it will hold around 12,000 stitches per layer depending on the type of stitches. 2 layers will support twice as many stitches.
  10. Truly, I did not heard of any more JEF format problem. Probably they do not happen in exporting design in the DST format. It might be format problem and on this, circumstances write to Dusan explaining the happenings. You need to take two-pronged approach if it is same for DST format. Please, write to Dusan for getting something for your MB4. It may be the fault of your machine also.
  11. Digitizer 10000 is so old and hard to run current version MBX 4.5. In cheaper rate you can get Digitizer Jr and able to upgrade it. By the way, it is not stylish but it is easy to use.
  12. 350 E and Customizer 1100 have also got same problems. Previously, I thought of scanning the logo of business card to get a clean outline to digitize it. It looks like tile mosaic drawing and force forever for me to clean it.
  13. Personal preference is associated with stabilizers. But, I love using TEAR away. I apologize to mentioned cutaway previously. Flap of fabrics stuff making you scratch the away is due to cutaway. Fusible is helpful in making iron and then tear it to finish the embroidery.
  14. Oh! Yes. I did not mention you about thread sock using. Just hang from the top of the spool on the end of the thread of you spool-after it slide the sock over the spool which makes the thread coming out of the top. This makes it ready to use.
  15. Clear to say, I really haven’t heard of those Polyster one. If your machines stick on it, it is better to try another one. You mentioned about Sulky and Gutterman and it is problem creating. But, I do not seem so. I also bought Madeira and it is working absolutely fine. Recent thread which I bought was from DBS and look I don’t think it is problematic. You should go to the store and brands which you trust more and notes the problem you face.
  16. Yup! Use a thread punch and observe its affect. Remember, thread only does not affect embroidery. There are many factors regarding it.
  17. One suggestion for you, do not buy very cheap thread. It may degrade your machine. You need to try spool or two dissimilar brands of threads.
  18. Always remember to change your needle for functioning of the embroidery. You can get on a cheaper rate of 100 organ needles at Amazon.
  19. I have a Brother 2800 D. I think I can help you regarding the issues you mentioned here. About thread breaking and nesting, you can try out thread nests. For fitting in the spools, you can buy it in a roll or small pack.
  20. Candace, thanks so much sharing your views on the new Janome 15000. Is the Horizon Link basically the same as the one with the 12,000?
  21. It sounds like you need to clean out the bobbin area. May be you need to change or clean the needle also. I always use titanium needle when using back stick.
  22. I would like to suggest you to reconstruct .dst file in to a vector file. So, fare I don’t know any freeware that can be able to do this task digitally.
  23. Hey, do you want a way to open dst file and then export to computer i.e JPG file? Yup! It can be done but there won’t be such quality in picture as it has been transferred from vector files. Due to its blunt nature, it won’t give awesome outputs when it is used in business cards. .dst file is found in stitches and when it is printed it comes on form of stitches. But, you won’t get in a rigid line.
  24. You should make sure that your needle is installed correctly. The hook which is responsible for catching thread cannot be seen because it is small.
  25. I did not read this at all as you "wanting to start anything" You raise a very valid point about human beings wanting the newer, bigger and better. That is just part of nature for a lot of us. It was only after I came so close to death that my mentality changed. Now I am more about making memories for my family, esp my hubby, than I am about materialistic things and storing up treasure on earth. But I also am just a personal crafter. For someone who does this as a buisness they have a very valid reason for wanting the new item. Maybe it is for the new improved features that will make their life easier, or may be it is for a business tax write off.
×
×
  • Create New...