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Irina

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Everything posted by Irina

  1. How to use a Ruffler foot Today, we’ll be working with a presser foot designed for the creation of the pleats, frills and ruffles. A little while ago I promised to show you what the Ruffler foot is capable of. At the first glance, the contraption seems a bit complicated. Several adjusters and guides allow you to gather fabric and simultaneously attach ruffles to the garment. Let’s see how it works. The Ruffler foot structure: A bifurcated arm (4) serves to synchronize the attachment with the needle bar. The clamp (5) is for quick attachment of the foot to the machine. Two screws and the adapter at the rear enable the foot to move up and down, and to the left and to the right of the needle bar. Adjusters: The depth screw (1) determines the amount of fabric pushed into the foot every time it tucks: from 1 to 8 mm. With the ruffle regulator (2), you determine how often a ruffle will appear: every 1, 6 or 12 stitches. Once set it to *, the attachment will create no ruffles at all. Fabric guide lines: Green line — for the main fabric, no ruffles. Red line — the ruffling blade. Lilac line — the fabric feed plate (also for braids, ribbons). You may place your fabric along any of the three guide lines, but only using the red one will give you ruffles. Stitch at a low or medium speed! Types of ruffles and pleats: Single or double pleat. To create one or the other, place one (or two, in the latter case) pieces of fabric to be ruffled, along the red guide line. Set the depth screw at 4 or higher. Set the Ruffle regulator to 6 or 12. How to ruffle fabric and attach it to the main fabric simultaneously Set the regulators to make single or double pleats. Insert the main fabric into the guide along the green guide line. You can create a twisted pleat, using a capronic or a satin band, or a specially prepared piece of fabric up to 7 cm wide. Set the stitch length at 2.5 mm. Set the depth screw at 1–3, and the ruffle regulator at 1. It’s also possible to ruffle fabric and simultaneously attach it to two flat fabrics, on the top and bottom. In order to do this, insert the main fabric with its right side facing up, into the foot along the green guide line, and the fabric to be pleated along the red line, with its right side also facing up. Along the lilac line, place the second piece of fabric, with its wrong side facing up. Use the prongs on the foot for the width of the seam allowance to be consistent. How to attach a pleat, folded in half, to the hem of the garment Finish your seam allowance with an overlocker. Mark the width of the seam allowance on the right side with a fabric marker. Place the main fabric along the green guide line, and the fabric to be ruffled along the red one. Adjust the regulators. Stitch to create the ruffles. Press down seam allowance to the wrong side and stitch along the edge. Joining the satin ribbon to the pleat Place the main fabric along the green guide line, and the fabric to be ruffled along the red one. Insert a narrow (up to 5 mm) satin ribbon into the foot, using the prong. Stitch. These are just the highlights of what the Ruffler is capable of. Play around with it, creating your own variants. Original text by Yelena Kraftwork
  2. My embroidery machine doesn’t recognize a design. What am I to do? Olga approached the embroidery machine. In her hand, there was a brand new 32 Gb USB flash drive that she had bought online specifically for the purpose. Olga drew her breath. She was about to initiate her very first contact with the embroidery machine. Olga stretched her arm in the direction of the USB port on a side panel. The data transfer was about to commence! Her swift stylus was flying over the screen, guiding her to the location, which, according to the manual, contained her embroidery designs. These operations were familiar to Olga: after all, she didn’t play Solitaire on her phone during the long winter evenings for nothing. In the end, she was in for a disappointment: the machine found no designs on the USB flash drive. Olga was quite puzzled: what happened to her files and why the machine did not see them? The embroidery machine doesn’t recognize a design This article deals with the problems almost every machine embroidery novice encounters sooner or later. Gradually, old problems are solved and give way to the new ones; therefore, the information accumulated here will be updated. Before loading the designs into your embroidery machine, carefully read the manual to learn how this can be done. Presently, the most popular way of doing that is using a USB flash drive. For this very reason, it is the USB Flash drive that is most troublesome for novice embroiderers. In this article, I’ll describe the main reasons for the design load failure, together with the possible solutions. The stitch file format is unfamiliar for your embroidery machine The embroidery machine manual always lists all compatible file formats/types. The format/extension is identified by the three letters after the dot in the name of the file. Every manufacturer has its own format to add to the embroiderer’s troubles. Brother — PES Janome — JEF Bernina — ART Pfaff — VIP And so on. If you saved your design in the PES format, and your machine can only read JEF and DST, do not expect miracles. Your machine won’t be able to see the design. Today, DST is considered a universal stitch format. A lot of manufacturers are aware of the fact, their equipment supporting both DST and the format that is its “native”. If your machine can read DST — use it! USB flash drive is full You have crammed too much information into your USB flash drive. This problem does not occur frequently, but it might, especially if you own a machine of one of the previous generations. Try to format the USB flash drive and then load the designs. If the solution has worked, congratulations! If not, read on. You’re using a file format of the newer version I've mentioned the file formats/types just above. You already know that your machine supports PES files, but the machine still fails to recognize them. One possible explanation is that you’re using a newer version of PES than the ones supported by your machine (there are approximately 10 versions of it in total). This trouble usually bothers the owners of the machines that support PES format. What can be done in this case? Open the file in any converter software and save it in the older version of the format. Embird automatically saves the files in the latest version of the format, it being compatible with the majority of Brother embroidery machines. Machine embroidery design was saved to a wrong folder Again, I suggest perusing your embroidery machine manual. It describes the correct sequence, in which the designs should be saved to the USB flash drive, and how to prepare it for the task. Before starting to load any designs, you should format it. Switch on your embroidery machine and insert your USB flash drive into the port. The machine will find and format it, if necessary, creating the system folders. It is in one of these folders that the files should be loaded. In case your machine was made after 2014, you’ll most probably never have to face this problem, as the loading process has since been simplified. On the other hand, anything can happen. The design is too big Any embroidery machine has a maximum embroidery area. It determines the largest size of the design that can be loaded into this particular piece of equipment. If you try to load a 141x139 mm design into the machine that only handles the ones up to 140x140 mm, it won’t be recognized. Open the design in any converter/embroidery editor and check the size. If the design is too large, resize it without stitch recount so as to preserve the decorative fills. P.S. Do not mistake the Giga hoop size with the maximum embroidery area! Embroidery design is not centered Some embroidery formats contain information about the positioning of the design along the X and Y axes. They convey this information to the embroidery machine, and, in case the design is off-center, the machine will fail to recognize it. This problem can be solved by using more complex converters or software specifically designed for the loading of the designs into the embroidery machine. As a rule, they center the designs automatically. P.S. This trouble is common for Janome embroidery machines, with their native JEF format. The ultimate fix is provided by Customizer or Embird. Convert the design, ticking the Center in the Hoop box. You forgot to load the design to the USB Flash drive Yep, it happens. Insert your USB flash drive in the port on your laptop or PC and check. Stitch count is too large This problem usually occurs on the old machines with small hoops, when one is trying to embroider PhotoStitch designs on them. It means the embroidery file contains more stitches that the machine can process. Solution: divide the file by color into two parts. USB flash drive is not compatible with the machine A home embroidery machine is a whimsical lady: sometimes the size is all wrong, sometimes it is the face (or, rather, the manufacturer) she takes an immediate dislike to. If nothing of the above has helped, get a new USB flash drive. Which one to choose? I won’t recommend any particular brands. In my experience, two machines of the same manufacturer and of the identical version treated the same USB flash drive differently: one easily recognized all files, the other refused to do it until they were saved in the special design loading software. Furthermore, the machine behaved in a strange way, stitching like there’s no tomorrow, once the USB flash drive was inserted. So, seek your own USB Flash drive, and ye shall find. Choose the smaller one. The smaller, the better. If you have any questions or suggestions, please feel free to write us a commentary or start a topic in the community. May only the easy-to-read formats and universally accepted USB flash drives come your way! Original text by Lisa Prass
  3. This beautiful and useful biscornu Biscornu is a French word, meaning something like “quirky”. You can see these cute thingies in almost every home. Even those who only sew on a button or two from time to time, keep them within reach as something to stick superfluous pins and needles in. A skillfully crafted biscornu may serve as an admirable decoration. But that’s all prattle. My point is this: almost all DIY biscornu tutorials concentrate on pincushions for cross-stitch embroidery done by hand, and practically nobody ever mentions the possibility of doing all the sewing and embroidery on a machine. As I already said, the work “biscornu” is of a French origin. It literally means “something uneven”, “with horns or projections”, “irregular”, “funny”, absurd”. For the embroiderers, this word denotes a small polygonal cushion, more or less symmetrical. This skewed little thing may serve as a pincushion, a pendant, a keychain, a scissors fob, and even an ornament. If you add some suitable adornment, you can even hang it on a Christmas tree! Many people would be happy to receive one as a present. Let’s create a biscornu. In this article, I’ll tell you how I made my own. To make a biscornu, you’ll need: 1. A piece of evenly woven fabric (linen or dense cotton). 2. An embroidery machine. 3. Embroidery threads. 4. Optionally, buttons, beads or seed beads, sequins, and rhinestones. 5. Water-soluble or tearaway stabilizer. 6. A design (you may get one from our store https://embroideres.com/). 1. Let’s start by hooping stabilizer and fabric. Tighten the screw and additionally secure the fabric with pins, so that it doesn’t shift during the embroidery. 2. Load the design into the embroidery machine, attach the hoop and embroider both parts of your biscornu. 3. Attention! The essential part of biscornu decor is backstitch running along the edge of the design. It will be used for the joining of the two parts. 4. Both parts of our biscornu are ready. Cut them out with a 1 cm seam allowance. 5. Before you start assembling the thing, locate the centers of every side of your squares. Mark center points with pins. Join the center of one square with the corner of another. This will give the thing the required skewed shape. The assembling process is fun, but it’s also time-consuming, so switch on an audiobook or an episode of your favorite TV series. We’re going to sew the parts of our biscornu by hand. 6. Pick up the needle and the thread (same as you used for the backstitch), fold it in half so that there is a loop at one end. Move the needle through the first backstitch, then back and through the loop, thus securing the thread with an invisible stitch. 7. Pull the thread through 2 corner stitches. 8. Continue in this manner, joining the stitches of square No1 with the stitches of square No2, until your biscornu is stitched up on three sides. You only sew half of the fourth side, leaving an opening for the stuffing. 9. Snip the inner corners. 10. Stuff the things with bits of polyester batting or another padding material. 11. Sew the opening. 12. Your biscornu is almost ready. Let’s add some finishing touches. 13. Fold the thread in half, so there is a loop at one end, and thread the two ends through the needle. Find the center of every side of the square, and with a long needle pierce the biscornu through. Then bring the needle back and through the loop. 14. Pull the thread through the buttons, gathering your biscornu a bit. Having looked at my biscornu the following morning, I realized that I didn’t like the buttons. So I replaced them with beads. Good luck and easy stitching to you all! Creating biscornu is fun! Tutorial supplement. How to create a design for a biscornu Loading the design 1. Open Embird Editor and click on Cross Stitch. 2. Load the design via Chart Import. 3. In the window, click on the part of the design and use the Crop tool on it. You should get something like this. Press OK. While cropping the image and placement of the marks, use +/- to zoom in or out. 4. In the next window, place the red marks as shown in the picture below, and click on Align Grid. In the window that pops up, you’ll be offered to place a number of crosses between marks 1 and 2, and also between marks 2 and 3. Type in 10 (the number corresponds with the real number of crosses between the marks) and press OK. 5. See whether the red greed aligns with the chart greed. If yes, press OK. If the two grids don't align, click on Undo Alignment and change the placement of the three marks. A 100% alignment is not necessary. The loading image FAQ How to activate the Crop button? Open your image (step 3), and immediately after that place the cursor in the spot A. Holding down your left mouse button, move the cursor to the spot B. Release the button. Now the Crop tool is active. Why did you place the red marks in those places, and not in the corners? Why 10 crosses? You can place the red marks whenever you want them, and set any spacing you like (even if it is only 1 cross). Play around with the options and see what works best for you. Drawing the pattern 1. First of all, let’s choose the color. Click on the Eye Dropper tool on the toolbar. Left-click on the wine-red color. It will appear in your color chart. 2. Click on Line and create the objects 1, 2 and 3. 3. Now, click on Pencil, and create the objects 4, 5 and 6. Play with these tools a bit. Note the difference between them. Decide for yourself, in which cases you would prefer Line, and when Pencil would be better. 4. Click on the Eye dropper again, but this time choose grey. 5. Now click on Line and draw the objects 1,2 and 3. 6. Click on Pencil and draw the rest of the objects. We’re done with drawing. Let’s proceed to the last part, copying and pasting. Copying and placement Before copying and placing the symmetrical pattern, you’ll need to change the size of your work area. 1. Go to the Options menu and click on Preferences. 2. Check the Keep Aspect Ratio box and change the value to: 3. Your work area now looks like this: 4. Click on Marquee (vertical toolbar) and select your pattern. Press Auto Repeat. 5. In the opening window, set the following values: right pointing arrow (1), mirror horizontally (2), spacing -1 (3). Press OK. 6. Using the Marquee tool (step 4), select the pattern and click on Auto Repeat. 7. The window will pop up, where you set the following values: The arrow pointing down (1), mirror vertically (2), spacing -1 (3). Your pattern is ready. Save the file in the necessary format. For those who don’t want to bother with all that, here you can download the design. Original text by Irina Lisitsa, tutorial supplement by Lisa Prass
  4. Cherry tree blossom: revamping old roller shades Roller shades have become a customary part of our homes. Thanks to the huge variety of textures and sizes, they can be easily adjusted to fit into our interior environments. And, should you make some changes to your interior design (I did), you can easily transform them, let’s say, by adding an oriental touch – a cherry tree blossom to remind you of the first rays of sunshine. For this tutorial, I’ll be using a design found on the Internet. I’ll alter it a bit, then cut it out using ScanNCut, and after that add some finishing touches with the help of a stencil. Materials Two pieces of roller shade material to fit your windows + fittings or two ready roller shades 30 cm wide. ScanNCut machine. Standard mat, 30 or 60 cm long, depending on the size of your design. A piece of paper large enough to fit your stencil. White craft glue. Fabric paints (I used acrylic). A sponge (or a paintbrush). A design. First, I made some changes to the picture I found (a cherry tree branch) in Canvas Workspace (the former ScаnNCutCanvas). You’ll need 2 files, one for making a stencil, and another one for cutting the roller shade. Open the image in your Canvas Workspace, go to Image Tracing, and press Color–Preview–OK. Select all objects, right-click and press Group. Save the result to a USB flash drive. This is our file No1. We’ll use it to create a stencil. Now, we proceed to the pattern for the shade. We’ll only need those objects that are going to be cut. Select all stems on the image and press Delete. Only the flowers should be left. This is our file No2. We’ll use it to cut the roller shade. Select all objects, right-click and press Group. Save the result to USB flash drive. (In order for the patterns on the shades to differ slightly, I deleted several flowers on the bottom and saved them into a separate file). Let’s prepare our roller shades. I cut 30 cm from each piece of fabric, thus getting two shades 30 cm wide (because my cutting mat is 30 cm wide). Metallic tubes on top and bottom of every shade should be filed with a mill file. Slide the bottom hem of the shade from the metal tube and detach the cardboard strip. Or, you may use a couple of existing roller shades, 30 cm wide each. In that case, you’ll only need to de-tube them and remove the strips. Secure the bottom edge of the shade to the mat and do the test cut. (Blade length 5, pressure 4. Other values may be used, depending on the material your roller shade is made of). Open file No2 in ScanNCut. Now let’s alter the design a bit: first invert it, then check the size and placement. Cut out your pattern and unpeel it from the mat. Repeat with the second roller shade. Change the size and placement of the design and cut. Apply some white craft glue to the wrong side of the narrow parts to give them additional strength. After the glue dries, it won’t be visible. Cut out a paper stencil, using file No1. Blade length 4, pressure 0. Align your stencil with the pattern on the shade and secure it with pieces of an adhesive tape. To be on the safe side, I also taped over the flowers, to prevent the paint from getting there. Squeeze the paint onto the paper, dip your paintbrush/sponge into it and start tapping on the openings in the stencil. It will take approximately 5 hours for the paint to dry. After that, take away your stencil, attach strips of cardboard to the bottom parts of the shades and insert metallic tubes. Attach fittings to the narrow shades and put them up. Hopefully, this will add a bit of sunshine into your winter homes. The idea for the decoration in this tutorial was found on the Internet. Original text by Maria Bespalova
  5. Sewing three-dimensional letters of the alphabet Three-dimensional letters are very easy to make if you have a sewing/sewing and embroidery machine. It requires very few expendables, a bit of your free time and a good mood. Sewing three-dimensional letters of the alphabet. Materials For the tutorial, I purchased a set of cute girly fabrics. It contained seven different patterns, of which I chose three, for a five-letter name. Besides fabrics, you’ll require threads, hand sewing and embroidery needles, soft padding material (polyester batting, Holofiber), and, naturally, the machine. Sewing three-dimensional letters of the alphabet. Embroidery The making of the embroidery design is a piece of cake even for beginners. Choose a font or create your own in your PE Design. Load the design into your embroidery machine, and hoop the stabilizer. Place your padding material (let’s say, 100 g/m2 polyester batting) on top of it. Next, place the outer fabric with its right side up. Hit the start button. While the machine is running, hold on to your fabric, pulling it just a little. You can also attach an eyelet for hanging. Finish the embroidery. Two parts of a letter can be embroidered in one go in a 200x300 mm hoop. In order to do that, copy your design and invert it, using your machine’s editor. Trim the embroidered letters around the contours with a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Now stitch them together as shown in this article (coming tomorrow!). Leave a 5 cm long opening for the stuffing. Having put your padding inside, sew the opening. You may ask the kids to help you, they’ll probably jump at the idea. This is the set of letters I made for a newborn baby. Many happy creations to you! Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  6. Sewing essentials: Double stitched seam Double stitched seam is one of the basic seams that are used for sewing shirts, swing blouses, jeans, sport trousers, bed linen, etc. If you only have a sewing machine and no overlocker, no need to worry about it. Thanks to the double stitched seam, both right and wrong sides of your garment will look perfect. Ready? Let's go! Before you start working on the actual garment, find some leftover pieces of fabric and do some tests. In this tutorial, I’ll be using a piece of middle-weight fabric, but keep in mind that double seam is also suitable for delicate fraying fabrics as cheesecloth and batiste. I strongly advise against using it on highly stretchable knits, unless you’re an owner of a coverstitch machine with adjustable differential feed. Creating double stitched seam Far left needle position Standard Brother sewing machine presser foot Pink upper thread and turquoise lower thread Blue-colored wavy line on the right side of the fabric Put the fabric pieces with their wrong sides together. Stitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge. To get a nice straight row of stitches, use the scale on your standard presser foot. Keep the width steady by using a seam guide on your throat plate. In the photo, you can see the two details stitched together from the wrong side. Press the seam allowance with an iron. Put the details with their wrong sides together, circumventing the protruding seam allowance. Stitch at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge. You can choose a different value if you want. Play with the stitch width, do several test pieces and decide which one works best in your case. For the purposes of this tutorial, I set the values as follows: ready double stitch width 0.7 cm, seam allowance 1 cm (0.3 cm will be “lost” in turndowns). As a result, the wrong side of your garment will look like the one in the photo below. The edge of the fabric is hidden inside the seam allowance. After that, not a single loose thread will escape. Press the seam allowance with an iron. Right (the photo above) and wrong sides (the photo below). > Now all that’s left is to add a finish. It’ll kill two birds with one stone: secure the seam allowance on the wrong side and serve as a decoration. You may add one or two lines of decorative stitches. If you chose the latter of the two options, place the fabric under the foot and stitch the first line of decorative stitches at a distance of 0.25 cm from the joining stitchline. For the sake of convenience, you may draw a line with an erasable pen on the foot itself (see the photo). Or, you may skip this and proceed to the second line of decorative stitches. It will be just as durable, but on the right side, there will be less decoration. The second line of decorative stitches should lie at a distance of 0.7 cm from the joining stitchline. Use the scale on your presser foot while doing that. All done! You now have two parallel lines of stitches on the right side, and three on the wrong side. Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  7. Sorry, we do not have this particular design. You can choose any one you like from our store embroideres.com.
  8. Placemats with machine embroidery Preparing for a holiday, one must take a number of things into account, such as buying or creating presents, inviting guests, home decoration, etc. To make your table look inviting, you’ll only need several pieces of fabric and a sewing and embroidery machine. Sew the placemats and decorate them with machine embroidery that your guests will love! Placemats with machine embroidery. Materials Outer fabric Inner fabric Between-lay Tearaway adhesive stabilizer Sewing and embroidery threads Placemats with machine embroidery. Preparations Cut the 48x38 cm rectangles out of the outer and inner fabrics, as well as the between-lay material. Put them together in this way: first goes the inner fabric, right side down, then the between-lay, and the upper fabric with its right side up on top of it all. Pin the layers together and draw the straight or diagonal lines with the help of a long ruler. Using the walking foot with a guide, stitch the layers together along the lines you’ve just drawn. Start with the centerline, and gradually work your way to the sides. Placemats with machine embroidery. Embroidery Choose a design from the machine’s memory or download one from our store. When you use designs from your machine’s memory (letters, for example), you can change their size up to 20% directly in the machine. If you are in a mood for creativity, and the machine’s capabilities are not enough, you might want to use PE Design. Stick a tearaway adhesive to the wrong side of your fabric. Hoop and run the embroidery. After the machine has finished stitching, unhoop the fabric, and remove the stabilizer leftovers. Cut out the pockets or decorations for your placemat. In order to create a pocket for the cutlery, stitch on the seam allowance. Insert a cardboard pattern and gather the thread. Press the cutout with an iron. Placemats with machine embroidery. Assembling The pockets can be sewn on with a straight stitch on the sewing machine or by hand (blind stitch). For the neat edges, use the edge stitch foot. The details may be attached by a zigzag stitch or any of the decorative stitches. Bias binding is good for the edges. You can cut it from the main fabric or you may use the companion fabric to make your bias binding a part of the decoration. To attach it to the placemat, use the edge stitch foot. Placemats are easy to sew, and there is an unlimited number of decorations. Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  9. Heart-shaped scissors holder with embroidery Want to learn how the simplest design, a couple of stitches and tools make a cute item? This tutorial contains a bare minimum of technique, a couple of tips and a step-by-step guide to creating an original scissors holder shaped like a heart. A gift like this will warm the heart of any crafter. And, if you have a really creative sewer/embroiderer for a friend, who owns lots of scissors, you may even give it to them instead of a Valentine. Heart-shaped scissors holder with embroidery. Materials: Sole-colored fabric (non-stretchy) Felt (thick) Tearaway adhesive stabilizer Upper embroidery threads Lower embroidery threads Scissors Machine embroidery design Heart-shaped scissors holder with embroidery. The making process Prepare the necessary materials. Load the design into your embroidery machine and attach the sole-colored fabric to the stabilizer. This will be our front (embroidered) panel. I usually prefer a tearaway adhesive, but in this case, a nonadhesive tearaway will do just as good, as will a cutaway stabilizer. If you use the last one, you may leave it in place after embroidery; in that case, you’ll have a strengthened front panel. If you’ll choose to make an entire holder out of thick felt, you may spare the stabilizer altogether. The next step is to attach the hoop to the embroidery machine and start the embroidery. Home embroidery machine will make stops for a thread change. Once the embroidery is finished, unhoop. Leave the stabilizer in place, if you wish. On the embroidered fabric, draw a triangle in such a way that the design fits exactly in its center. Keep in mind the size of the scissors, for which the holder is intended. Before cutting the triangle out, decide whether you will fold the edges or not. If yes, don't forget to leave some fabric for seam allowance (or fraying, as shown in this tutorial). Pick up a sheet of paper, draw the triangle and then add two half-circles to transform it into a heart. You may skip this part and draw directly on felt. It is easier to draw on paper, so, if you're not an artist (I’m not), do as I did. Press the paper template to the felt and cut the back panel of your holder. You’re almost done. The fabric I chose for my front panel frays a bit. I decided not to fold the sides in order to hide the edges. In order to prevent the upper edge from fraying more than it is necessary for decoration, I add a decorative stitch at some distance from it. Now I join the sides with the back panel. I use threads of the same color as the felt. One last thing: I pierce a hole on the side and tie the ribbon in a bow. A piercer came with my sewing and embroidery machine. If you do not own one, use a substitute. Voila! Your scissors holder is ready! Original text by Mary Stratan Pick the design you like from our store! https://embroideres.com/
  10. Sewing in the hoop: An embroidered bag in the shape of a house An embroidered bag in the shape of a house For this job, you’ll need: A hoop, size 20 x 30 cm A design, size 20 x 30 cm A piece of yellow fabric, size 20 x 24 cm Two pieces of red fabric, size 20 x 8 cm each Two strips of fabric for the eyelets, size 7 x 3 cm each A piece of lining, size 32 x 18 cm Colored embroidery threads High-loft interfacing material (adhesive) Tearaway stabilizer A zipper If you’re going to use a Brother V machine, you’ll need to have the Premium Pack I installed to be able to enlarge the embroidery field to 20 x 30 cm. An embroidered bag in the shape of a house. Embroidery With an iron, fuse the high-loft interfacing material to the yellow fabric. Place a piece of tearaway stabilizer under the fabric and hoop them together. Make sure that the center of the yellow piece corresponds to the center of the hoop. Begin the embroidery. The machine will stitch the outline and make a stop. Don’t unhoop; place the red pieces on top. Fuse them to the high-loft interfacing material with an iron, fix the edges with glue and continue embroidery. Trim the extra fabric from the scallops and embroider the rest of the design. An embroidered bag in the shape of a house. Sewing Iron the embroidery and cut along the outline. Now create the eyelets. Fold the 14 3 cm strip of fabric in two, stitch along the longer side and turn the right side out. The ready eyelets should measure 7 x 2 cm. Fold the strip in two and stitch it to the right side of the fabric with a straight stitch, as shown in the picture. Sew the zipper to the upper part of the bag. Stitch the lining along the zipper. Fold the bag, right side inside, align the sides. Stitch the sides. Leave 5 cm of the lining for the turning out. Fold the lower corners inside and stitch across, 2 cm from the edge. Turn the right side out and iron. Drag a cord or a band through the eyelets. It will serve as a handle. Original text by Olga Milovanova
  11. An embroidered tea set for two Let’s create a cozy atmosphere and sew a tea set. Our set will include two napkins and two teacup sleeves – for you and for your significant other. If you own an embroidery/sewing and embroidery machine, this will be easy for you. A tea set for two might also make a great present for your Valentine. Are you with us? Let’s go! For this job, you’ll need: A sewing and embroidery machine A piece of linen fabric size 50 x 50 cm Machine embroidery threads Sewing threads Machine embroidery designs An embroidered tea set for two. Embroidery techniques Download the designs. Design sizes: For a napkin: width 76, height 105 mm. For a sleeve: width 164, height 76 mm. Load the designs into your embroidery machine. From the wrong side, press the tearaway stabilizer to the fabric with an iron, then hoop the whole thing. Check the design placement and hit the start button. After the machine has stopped, unhoop the fabric, tear away the stabilizer from the wrong side and press the embroidery with an iron. Cutting and sewing Cut the panels. For a napkin: 45 x 26 cm. For a sleeve: 2 details, 18 x 26 cm each (size of the ready sleeve: 8.5 x24.5 cm). Sleeve: fuse a piece of high-loft interfacing material size 8.5 x 25 cm to the wrong side of your fabric and iron it (do not touch the seam allowance). Take a small piece of fabric and fold it on the bias so that it is about 8 cm long. Sew in into an eyelet and pin to the right side of your fabric, 5 cm from the edge. (You may use a piece of round elastic instead). Fold the fabric along its long side with the right side inside, pin and stitch on three sides, 7 mm from the edge. Don't forget to leave an opening for turning out. Cut the corners. Turn the right side out and iron. Try it on a cup and sew on a button. Napkin: trim the edges, pull out threads along the perimeter, 0.5 cm from the edge. All done! Original text by Olga Milovanova
  12. Sorry, I don't know. I'm not the author of the articles, just the translator.
  13. Machine embroidery on leather. DIY bracelets Leather bracelets. Materials: A piece of leather or faux leather Dense interfacing material Tearaway nonadhesive stabilizer Temporary spray adhesive Upper thread Underthread Machine embroidery design A needle for metallics or for the leather Machine embroidery on leather: Tips When choosing a design, pick one that is not too heavy and with satin columns in it. Designs containing dense Tatami fills might cut the leather, causing the design to fall out. For your future bracelet, you can choose any shape you like and draw it in the editor, same way as you do appliqué. As for the stitch types, motifs and lightweight fills, straight single and triple running stitches or designs with loose Tatami fill will do fine. Choose a thin needle with a sharp tip; a thick one would cut through the leather, leaving a big hole in it. Embroidery on leather requires commitment, for it is hard to rip off the already embroidered part, and the holes made by the needle are permanent. More information about embroidery on leather in the article This Mysterious leather. If you're interested in more articles and tutorials on the subject, please don't be too shy to comment! We’ll appreciate the feedback. https://forum.embroideres.com/articles.html/articles/this-mysterious-leather-r73/ Before you start, don’t forget to reinforce your leather with fusible/woven interfacing of a suitable weight! Machine embroidery on leather. Method No1 Choose this one if you have a piece of leather of the same size as the design or bigger. Glue dense fusible interfacing to the back side of your leather piece. Hoop the cutaway nonadhesive stabilizer. Sprinkle the stab with a temporary spray adhesive. Stick your reinforced piece of leather to the stabilizer. Load the design into the machine and change your standard embroidery needle for a thin one with a sharp tip, the one you use with metallics. Or, if the leather you’re going to embroider is thick, better choose a leather needle instead. Set your machine to the minimum speed. When it has finished stitching, detach the hoop but do not unhoop the leather. Instead, sprinkle the wrong side of the stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive. Stick another piece of leather onto it. Wind the upper thread on a spool and attach it to the machine. Install the hoop back on the machine and zigzag through the layers to join them. Having done that, remove the hoop and trim the leather along the stitched outline on the right and wrong sides. Cut close to the stitching line. Attach the hoop once more and embroider the last part of the design, the satin column. Tear the stabilizer along the outline. Singe the stab leftovers with a lighter or candle. Machine embroidery on leather: Method No2 For the embroidery on thin or textured leather, it is crucial to choose the right interfacing material (fusible or woven). For bracelets, shirt collar interfacing will do splendidly. It is very dense and won't tear even when embroidering on a piece of thin leather. Lightweight sewing interfacing materials for the delicate fabrics or knitwear are not suitable for the job. The second method is handy whenever you have a small size piece of leather that should fit into a chosen shape. Load the design into the machine and attach the hoop. Embroider the outline and the first color of the design. Spray the stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive and press the piece of leather to it in such a way that it covers the stitched outline. The rest is done in the same way as in Method No1. Machine embroidery on leather. Assembling In the corners of the ready bracelets, poke holes for the eyelets, using a pair of pliers or a hole punch. Insert the eyelet into the holes. Pick up a grommet/eyelet setting tool and insert the eyelets. Once they are ready, drag a chain with a clasp through them. Enjoy your bracelets! Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  14. How to embroider small items of clothing. Hooping tricks Whenever there is a need to embroider small items of clothing, such as future pockets or cuffs, and your machine only has one hoop, these hooping tricks will do the job. There are several ways of hooping a small item, and in this article, I’m describing two of them. Either one will get you a beautiful high-quality embroidery. The first way of hooping a small item is to glue it to the tear-away adhesive stabilizer. Just what you need for not-too-heavy designs and small monograms. Adhere the item to the stabilizer and hoop in the usual way; the adhesive will secure the fabric in place and prevent shifting during the embroidery. The second way is to hoop the fabric itself. Suitable for smaller and bigger items alike. This is called the fabric extension method. You’ll need a few strips of extra fabric (calico, for example). Stitch them to the main fabric with a straight stitch about 5 mm long. After that, it is advisable to press seams with an iron to make them flatter. Adhere the stabilizer to the wrong side and hoop the item. If you're an owner of a Brother Innov-is le sewing and embroidery machine, you can use the built-in camera for the exact positioning of the design. This is very handy whenever the accurate placement of the design is crucial, such as while working with checkered or striped fabrics. How to use the built-in camera Press the Fabric scan key to view the location of the pressing foot on the LCD screen. Pick one of the positioning stickers that come with the machine and affix it within the embroidery field specified by the machine. Take away the sticker and your hands and wait for the machine to perform the scan. Now the pattern can be viewed in the Embroidery Edit screen, allowing for the better positioning of the design on the hooped item. When the embroidery is finished, remove the stabilizer leftovers or rip off the extra strips of fabric and iron the item on a soft underlay, right side down. Original text by Irina Lisitsa Don't forget to buy some lightweight designs from our store! See also:
  15. Monogram pillow: a tutorial A pillow with an embroidered monogram is a home textile classic. It makes a wonderful wedding, jubilee, christening or no occasion gift. Pillows are wonderful for machine embroidery beginners who want to learn the machine embroidery basics and practice to acquire the necessary skills. This is a brief guide into making the embroidered monogram pillows. Monogram pillow. Materials Fabric Zipper Braided cording with lip Machine embroidery design Cutaway or tearaway adhesive stabilizer Water-soluble stabilizer (optional) Upper thread Underthread Monogram pillow. Cutting For a pillow size 40x40 cm cut two squares of side 43 cm. I used non-stretchy upholstery fabric, dense but with a pronounced twill weave. Before you start working, you should finish the edges of this fabric with the serger, in order to prevent fraying. Monogram pillow. Embroidery Adhere the stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric. Find the center of each side and draw the crosshairs. Their point of intersection will mark the center of your future embroidery. Hoop your fabric. Attach the hoop to the machine and cover it with a layer of thin water-soluble film (in case the weave of the fabric is a pronounced one). Select the basting stitch and stitch the water-soluble stabilizer to the fabric. Hit the start button and embroider your design. You may pick a sole-colored or a multi-colored one or embroider a multi-colored design without changing the upper thread color. Some embroidery/sewing and embroidery machines have an option of monochromatic embroidery. Peruse the manual that comes with your equipment to use its capabilities to the fullest. Having finished the embroidery, remove the stabilizer leftovers. Monogram pillow. Cording Round the edges of your pillow a bit. Stitch the cording to the right side of your pillow, along the edges. To attach the cording at the corners, make small incisions so that it lays more easily. Stitch it with a special cording foot or a zipper foot. Original text by Irina Lisitsa Don't forget to visit our shop to buy some lovely monograms! See also:
  16. Patchwork quilt for a child If you have a small kid or are expecting one and love sewing, this tutorial is for you. Using only natural fabrics, you can decorate a child’s bed with a patchwork quilt of your own making. Haven't tried patchwork quilting yet? Now is the right time! To create a simple quilt block, you’ll need scraps of bright-colored fabrics and a sewing machine. Let’s go! Patchwork quilt for a child. Materials For this patchwork quilt, I’ve bought a ready set of fabrics with batik print and a piece of sole-colored backing fabric. There were 40 squares in the bundle, size 12.5x12.5 cm. You may cut your own squares or buy a ready fabric set, as I did. To make the quilt warmer and puffier, you’ll need a thing called quilt batting, designed specifically for this purpose. It is usually made of cotton, bamboo, wool, or their combinations. You’ll also need some lining fabric. As you’re making a kid’s quilt, this fabric ought to be natural. Cotton, calico or lightweight calico will do splendidly. Patchwork quilt for a child. Cutting For a patchwork quilt, cut the same number of squares out of your sole-colored backing fabric. Place the squares by pairs with their right sides together, a bright-colored plus a sole-colored one. Draw the lines on the sides to mark the seam allowance. In my bundle, the size of the squares didn't ideally correspond to the one I needed. So I drew two parallel lines at a distance of 11.5 cm. That would mark the width of the ready square. Done that? Pin the pieces together. Patchwork quilt for a child. Joining the pieces Stitch along the lines on the right and of the left. Repeat with the top and the bottom of the square. Press the seam allowances. Now draw the diagonal lines from one corner to the other. Cut the squares along those lines. Join these smaller pieces by pairs, their right sides together. This is the most interesting part; you can “play” with the squares and create various combinations. Remember the kaleidoscope you’ve probably had in your childhood. Choose your pattern, arrange the blocks and pin them together so as not to mess up the whole thing. Baste them together and press the seam allowances. Lay the resulting short strips of fabrics together and sew them to each other. While arranging the pieces, position them so that their seam allowances are oriented in different directions, thus “locking” them. Having sewn the pieces together, unstitch the fabric near the “lock” and press the seam allowance open (see in the photo below). In our future tutorial, we’ll tell you how to arrange the quilt blocks into a ready quilt. Original text by Irina Lisitsa See also:
  17. Heart-shaped pincushion with a finish Let’s create a heart-shaped pincushion with decorative stitches as a gift for your fellow embroiderer. In the course of this tutorial, I used the stitches from Brother Innov-is 1E sewing and embroidery machine's memory. Heart-shaped pincushion. Materials A sheet of paper Pink fabric Underlay Sewing or embroidery threads Quilting and sewing needles Padding (quilting cotton, chlorofibre, etc.) Tearaway embroidery stabilizer Heart-shaped pincushion. Sewing Select a decorative stitch on your embroidery machine. Make a “sandwich” out of your stabilizer, fabric, and underlay. If your underlay has a sticky side, glue it to the fabric. Stitch the “sandwich” with decorative stitches, leaving 1–1.5 cm between them. Brother Innov-is V7 has lots of decorative stitches; one can find a suitable kind of stitch for any project or even create their own via My Custom Stitch. We’ll cover the latter issue in one of our future articles. Keep your eye on our updates! Draw a heart on the sheet of paper or use a ready template. Fold the drawing in half, with its right side inside. Trace the outline onto the fabric. For a hanger, you can cut a piece of band or cord and attach it to the heart’s center. Stick the pin through, using it as a marker for attaching the band. With your band/cord pinned, select the triple stitch on your machine and set the stitch length to 2.5 mm. Stitch along the outline. While joining the parts, don’t forget to leave an opening for turning out and stuffing. Cut the fabric close to the stitched line. Turn it the right side out. Use a peg or something like it at the corners. Stuff the heart with the padding of your choice, then sew the opening with a blind stitch. A heart-shaped pincushion is ready! Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  18. Heart-shaped decoration for a garment A few strips of fabric, a sole-colored T-shirt or a tank top, and 15 minutes of your spare time—that’s all you need to create a heart-shaped decoration. You can use the tips described in this tutorial to decorate any garment, thus giving your old clothes look new and interesting look. Hearts are perhaps most often associated with the Valentine’s Day, but one doesn't need an excuse for wearing them on any other day of the year. Don’t be afraid to experiment! Not only it will help you to revamp your clothes but also give you lots of joy! Materials A T-shirt Thin silk cording A gathering foot A Ruffler foot A cording foot for sewing on three cords Strips of non-fraying fabric (netting, tulle netting, thin knitwear). Heart-shaped decoration for a garment On a T-shirt, mark the center front line. Place a heart-shaped cutout on top of it and trace the outline with a piece of tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker. Cut the non-fraying fabric into strips 3 to 6 cm wide. Attach the Ruffler foot to your machine. Select the appropriate pleating depth and stitch the strips along the center line, gathering the fabric as you go. If you haven’t yet used the Ruffler foot, here’s the tutorial (coming soon!): If you need narrow pleats of the equal width, you can use a gathering foot instead. For instructions, see this tutorial (coming soon!): . Pin the pleated strip of fabric along the outline of the heart and straight-stitch it to the fabric. You now have a decorated garment! After I had slipped my T-shirt over a mannequin, it became clear that I failed to get the measurements right, so I cut the upper part of the pleats a bit, thus making the decoration even more impressive. Alternately, you can use knitwear strips and cords. Cut the thin knitwear fabric into strips 3 to 6 cm wide. While cutting, pay attention to the wales. They should be vertically oriented: in this way, the fabric edge won’t fray, and there will be no runs. Gather the knitwear strips, using the method described above. Trace the future decoration to the fabric. In my case, these are two halves of a heart, to the right and left of the straight line. Pin the gathered knitwear strips along the outline. Attach the cording foot and feed three cords into it. Select a three-step zigzag stitch. Stitch the gathered strip to the fabric by the cord. On turns and at corners, raise the foot and rotate the fabric under it. Having adjusted the fabric position, pull the cords slightly and continue sewing. Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  19. Hooping the fabric without hooping Practically any new technique is born in the course of creation. Again and again, we conjure out new techniques that make our production time shorter and our coffee breaks longer. The hooping method I’m going to describe in this article was suggested to me by one of the Broidery.ru forum first members. And, just like in the Broken Telephone game, while passing hands the concept changed somewhat, though I tried to stick to the original one. Sergei Demin, who inspired me, endorsed my version and promised to elaborate on the original idea in the nearest future. Before you start reading, I’d like to tell you in what cases this wonderful little technique might come in handy: Use it to embroider a large number of the same size designs. It will save you a lot of time. If your fabric is of a lightweight and delicate kind, this method will allow you to forego the hooping part. If you do not own a small hoop, and for a larger one the piece to be embroidered is too tiny, this method will spare you sewing on additional strips of fabric in order to enlarge it. You understand, no doubt, that I’ve covered only the basic rules here — it is for you, dear reader, to expand upon them! So, happy hooping without hooping! The work order You’ll need a piece of polyethylene a little larger than your hoop, double-sided painter’s tape, and the hoop. Hoop the polyethylene. Better pick plastic sheeting they use for covering greenhouses: it is dense enough and doesn't warp (almost). Stick the painter’s tape to the inner side of the hoop. After that, unpeel the protective layer. Stick another layer of tape on top of the first. Determine the size of the embroidery area. Then, cut the hole with 5 mm allowance. Choose an appropriate stabilizer and attach it to the wrong side of the fabric. Place the fabric on the prepared surface and start the embroidery. Having finished, remove the embroidered piece of fabric and replace it with the new one. Continue the embroidery. In order to determine the size of the embroidery area, attach the taped hoop to the machine. Load the design and observe the embroidery area on your display. The machine will determine the boundaries of the design and move the needle bar to outline the perimeter, making short stops at the corners. When the needle is directly above the corner, drop it to make a puncture in the polyethylene sheet with the painter’s tape attached to it. Raise it, and the machine will continue the demonstration. Having found the 4 corner points, you’ll draw a rectangle without difficulty. After that, cut the hole the size of the embroidery area with 5 mm allowance. Keep in mind that the sticky side of the tape should hold the fabric in place, and therefore, this method may not be suitable for the designs almost as big as the hoop. Use the sticky hoop until the adhesive tape fails to hold the fabric in place. Idea by Sergei Demin See also:
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  21. Make your own bias binding When sewing a garment, every little detail counts. However, it often happens that the most important one is missing. What if you need a bias binding, and the nearby craft shop has all the wrong colors? In that case, you can create your own bias binding. Read this article to learn how to make the binding of the right size, what tools to use and how to sew bias binding on the garment. Bias binding. Tools There are all kinds of tools for making bias binding that come in a variety of shapes; you can buy it in a specialty store. The number on a tool shows the width of bias binding with the folded edges. The double binding is two times narrower after being sewn on the edge of the garment. Bias binding. Tool size 6 mm—for the “textile mosaic” technique, which is used for decoration of dresses, shirts and so on. 12 mm—narrow bias binding, the width on a garment only 0.6 cm. It is cut from lightweight fabrics. Neck holes and armholes of the dresses/tunics, seams of the “high-class” garments, buttonholes on trousers and skirts. 18 mm—a good edge finishing for the garments or homemade textiles. It is, perhaps, the most common size, for you see it in the stores most often. This kind of binding is 0.9 cm wide when sewn. 25 mm—mostly for home textiles, table linen, kid’s clothes, such as bibs, pinafores, etc. 50 mm—almost a cording. It is used in the same way as 25 mm binding. The template should be exactly two times wider than the ready binding. For example, If you want 12 mm binding, you should cut a 12*2 = 24 mm tape. Align your fabric with the weft thread and the crosswise grain of the fabric (the one that runs along the selvage). Trim the selvage. Use a triangle ruler or a quilting ruler or fold the fabric at a 45° angle. Bias binding. Sewing the strips into one continuous tape Set the quilting foot with a blade on your machine, and select the straight stitch with the needle in a center position. Place the ends of the strips one over another with a 7 mm overlap, right sides together. The overlap is there for the stitching line that will join the strips. Stitch back and forth a few times at the beginning and the end. After sewing, press the seams open and flat. Trim the “dog ears”. Bias binding. Shaping Cut your binding on the bias; it will be easier to insert it into the bias binding maker this way. Feed the strip into the wide end of the maker and pull it out of the narrow one. You may poke it with a needle if the fabric is of a heavier kind. The strip of fabric will come out with folded edges. All you’ll need is to press them with an iron. Bias binding. Sewing The methods of attaching bias binding to the garment are aplenty. There are feet designed specifically for the purpose, which can be used in a variety of ways. We described one of them in our previous articles: Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  22. DIY anime style backpack Pause for a moment and consider: how many pairs of jeans are there in your wardrobe and how many of those you haven’t put on for ages? A pair of jeans that is not fashionable anymore or the one you're bored with can be given a new life with just a trifle of effort. Uncover your sewing and embroidery machine! Let’s create an anime style backpack for you or one of your friends. Read this tutorial to learn how. Are you with us? DIY anime style backpack. Materials A pair of jeans Lining fabric Zipper Bias binding (4 cm wide) Padding fabric Machine embroidery design Sewing and embroidery machine Machine embroidery threads DIY anime style backpack. Embroidery For this tutorial, I used a design already embroidered on a piece of white cotton fabric. You may do the embroidery right on the fabric you’ve chosen for your backpack if you want. The embroidery itself is easy. Attach a piece of tearaway adhesive stabilizer of appropriate weight to the wrong side of your fabric and hoop the whole thing. Load the design into the embroidery machine and attach the hoop. Hit the start button and do the embroidery, changing colors in accordance with the color chart that comes with your design. DIY anime style backpack. Sewing Out of the legs of your jeans, cut two rectangular pieces. You can make them any size you like; I used a pair of sneakers and a zipper as a reference. The resulting panels measured 40 x 30 cm. Place a zipper between the two denim pieces and join them with straight lines of stitches. Use a standard zipper foot. Now the front panel is ready. Check the measurements by placing your item of reference (sports shoes in my case) on top of it. Round the edges using a French curve or a soup bowl of a suitable diameter. Cut the identical panel for the back side of the backpack. Now you can cut the panels out of the padding and the lining fabrics. Place the back panel on top of the padding piece and draw the stitching pattern (diagonal squares in our case). Attach the walking foot and stitch along the traced lines. DIY anime style backpack. Appliqué Out of the embroidered piece, cut the design, leaving 2 cm allowance along the perimeter. Secure it of one of the two halves of the front panel. You can pin it or use a glue pencil or temporary spray adhesive. Choose the threads to match the color of your fabric. I picked the ones I used while embroidering the design: cyan for the hair, mauve for the skirt, etc. Straight stitch along the perimeter (stitch length 2, the needle in the center position). Trim the extra material close to the stitching line. Secure the embroidered panel with a zigzag stitch (the needle in the center position). Many computerized sewing machines with a speed regulator have an option of smooth zigzag width adjustment. Use the manual that comes with your equipment to learn what it’s capable of. Stitch the lining to the front panel along the zipper tape; after that, secure the lining along the edges. Sew the lining to the back panel close to the edge. Cut the denim leftovers to strips 7 cm wide for the side panels. Stitch together the short sides of the strips to make one long piece. Place this piece on top of the padding fabric and join it with the piece of lining. Join them with parallel straight lines of stitches. Trim the projecting edges of the padding and the lining fabrics. Fold the long side piece in two and find its center. Join the center of the long piece to the top of the backpack and baste the panels, leaving allowance on the right side. Having reached the center on the bottom side, mark the crossline and cut the extra material, leaving 1 cm for seam allowance. Sew the piece in the center and baste it to another panel of the backpack. Prepare a rectangular piece of fabric for the strap. Baste the hanger to the back side. Straight stitch through all layers. Trim the edges and finish them with the bias binding. Read about different ways of attaching the binding here: Original text by Irina Lisitsa Visit our store for oriental embroidery designs
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