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Found 8 results

  1. Can someone please help me. I am using a newly digitized embroidery design, and it has sewed out perfectly for me about the first 5 times. All of a sudden there are problems with it. Have tried different hoops, backing, changed thread, bobbin thread, needle, everything.Then it sews again good 1 or 2 times, and back to the same old stuff. Am using the same exact shirts to sew this design on. Has anyone had this problem before?& Would appreciate any help. I have a Tajima TEHX-C1501.
  2. I am having a tough time not stretching or splitting my fabric. I have tried 2 backings and a washable front. I have tried slowing the machine but I just can't get it. I am using a Brother SE1900 embroidery machine with 90wt bobbin and 40wt embroidery thread. Please help and thank you in advance.
  3. An embroidered patch is a piece of art which is created by using a fabric backing thread and some form of a needle. Embroidered patches can be attached with a pin or can be sewn on, but some of the more modern methods of attachment include iron-on, dryer heat activated adhesive, and Velcro backing. The art of making embroidered patches is decades old but the introduction of new high speed, computerized machines have brought a once rare, time consuming art into mass production.[citation needed] Embroidered patches, an important identification tool for military and other uniformed personnel, trace their roots thousands of years ago to ancient cultures of the Mediterranean, Mideast, China, India and South America where the art of decorating fabric with thread stitching originated.[1] Elaborate hand-stitched designs and patterns were used to embellish the robes of royalty and for religious artifacts.[citation needed] Today, embroidery designs are used by government (including uniforms of the military, emergency services and other specialized workers) sports teams and companies in the private sector to denote rank, job, specific position or specialized unit. Youth groups, including sports teams, scouting organizations and specialized clubs often wear clothing emblazoned with embroidered patches. They are also used by space agencies on the uniforms of astronauts to denote the mission. Since 1971, the sole manufacturer of mission patches for NASA has been A-B Emblem of Weaverville, North Carolina. Space mission patches as well as fire and police patches are collected by enthusiasts as well.
  4. There are two types of stabilizers: toppings and backings. A top stabilizer (topping) is used to prevent stitches from sinking into loosely spun and textured fabrics. Use a top stabilizer when embroidering on knitwear, velvet or velour to help stitches to stay in place. A top stabilizer won't prevent fabric from puckering. For this purpose, use backing. For laces, the backing is used as a base fabric. Machine embroidery stabilizers (interfacing, etc.) in our shop. Backing Backings are special, primarily non-woven materials, that provide support and stabilize the fabric during the embroidery, prevent creasing, distortion, and stretch. They are put under the fabric being embroidered. There are several types of backings: tearaway, adhesive, cutaway, water-soluble, heat-away. Tearaway stabilizers Tearaway stabilizers usually consist of paper of varying density (thickness). Tearaway stabilizers are good for most natural fabrics and give only a temporary support. This kind of stabilizer is easily removed and can be successfully used in cases where the wrong side will be seen (towels, plaids, scarfs and so on). It is also widely used with non-transparent fabrics of fair colors, with thick and densely woven fabrics made of natural fibers (denim, for example). Not recommended for any kinds of knits. Adhesive stabilizers These are glued to the wrong side of the item, thus giving it stability. There are several types of adhesives: An ordinary adhesive stabilizer with glue on one side. The item is attached to it with an iron. Adhesive paper with a sticky side covered with a protective layer. This paper is necessary when embroidering tricky fabrics: velvet, cashmere, leather, which are better not to be hooped. And also for the items that are hard to hoop: collars, cuffs, small details. An adhesive paper is placed in the hoop with a sticky side facing up, then the protective layer the size of the embroidery area is removed, and the item is placed on top. Having embroidered the item, tear the paper away. Example: FILMOPLAST®. Cutaway stabilizers Cutaway stabilizers (backings) are used for stabilizing highly stretchable fabrics and provide constant support during the embroidery. One needs them to embroider a machine embroidery design with a lot of stitches, in order to avoid fabric distortion, preventing the appearance of bulges or concavities (the effect stays even after several washes). A cutaway stabilizer is always thicker than a tearaway. It consists of a non-woven fabric made of long fibers on the basis of polyester or rayon. The way the fibers are arranged in a stabilizer defines its purpose. If the fibers are mainly single-oriented, it stretches and tears in this one direction. Therefore, to stabilize the fabric properly you need to use 2 layers of backing, positioning them perpendicularly. There are backings of varying density. Bonding short fibers (polyester, rayon, cellulose) together by solvent treatment, you'll get a non-woven fabric of high quality, which is soft like a tearaway stabilizer, has a smooth surface and does not stretch in any direction. This stabilizer can be of varying density and just one layer of it is sufficient. It is considered the best embroidery stabilizer because it does not add extra volume to the embroidery and does not show through the fabric. Among the cutaway stabilizers, one should note spunbond – a thin, very soft material that resembles a waffle. USA Poly Mesh or No Show Mesh stabilizers. This kind of backing is good because it does not stretch at all, providing support all the time, and is not visible through the fabric. It comes in various colors and densities. It is used for knits. Solvent stabilizers Solvent stabilizers include a water-soluble fabric-like stabilizer and a water-soluble film of varying density. They are used for stabilizing the embroidery when it is necessary to remove the backing without traces. For example, organza, transparent fabrics, FSL, and cutwork. Water-soluble stabilizers come in two varieties: textile interfacing materials and films 100% polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) stabilizers Both are dissolved in water. Time of dissolution depends on the temperature of water. Approximate valued by Gunold: 20 °C about 3 min 25 °C about 2 min 30 °C about 1 min 40 °C about 15 sec In real life, water-solubles are not so easily removed, and it takes more than one round to get rid of it completely. The intended purpose of a water-soluble film depends on its thickness: Thin (20 microns) Used as toppings for lightweight fabrics. Medium (35 microns) are used for textured fabrics (velour with and without pile, velvet, fur and loop fabrics). When embroidering small details and letters on textured fabrics the film should be placed on top for better results. Dense (80 microns) are used as a base fabric for so-called 3D embroidery, FSL, chevrons, cutwork, and as a stabilizer for the fabrics where the wrong side should look good, also for transparent fabrics. Heat-away stabilizers They are used when it is necessary to stabilize the fabric, which shouldn't get wet and you need to remove the backing leftovers. They can be successfully used for creating FSL, as well as water-soluble film. They are removed with a very hot iron (no less than 120°) through the paper. Under no circumstances should steam be used with fusible stabilizers. Upper stabilizers (toppings) These are necessary to prevent the stitches from sinking into the pile, loops, fur and other materials of that kind, also with loosely-knitted fabrics. Gelatin-based toppings are widely known because they can be easily solved in water. This is what is called a water-soluble film. There are two types of water-soluble film: thin and thick (dense). Thin film is used practically with everything, thick one – only with high piles. Next kind of stabilizers is a fusible stabilizer. They are used in cases when the fabric cannot be washed, and therefore, the use of water-soluble film is not possible.
  5. I have never had this problem before with this garments, but we are sewing a simple text embroidery design on thin tee like fabric (about as thin as wick away) and holes keep popping up in between the letters and inside the openings of the e's and g's, for instance. The letters range from small, .25" to larger, 1". The small letters are sewing the best. The lettering is fat and sewn in a satin stitch. We have tried less stitches, until it got too sparse, less underlay. Different types of underlay. Different types of backing and combinations there of. Any suggestions?
  6. Not sure weather I can use a tearaway or must I use a cutaway. Its a left chest Company logo all text. Not sure if I want to see the backing inside the sweater. Not everyone buttons the sweater. Any suggestions Thanks
  7. We are doing big designs, we're setting up for the Irish Dance Dress market but doing spinoffs of the designs onto hoodies and sweats. Mainly using the 300 x 300 to 450x480 hoop sizes. The range of fabrics we are trying to set up for is rather large too, anything from woven to stretch knits and even silks and crystal organza. The celtic knotwork and similar open designs also tend to be quite gappy rather than a solid fill so there are many areas of backing left between stitches. For stretch fabrics (hoodies and sweats) we are currently using 2 crossed layers of a directional tearaway obtained from AJS (38g/m2) but it is far from perfect. There is too much stretch when in the large hoops, and it takes ages to tear out afterwards. We are using tensioning stitches (running a 10mm x 2.5 mm pitch steil around the outside of the design area) to improve the stretch problem, but on a recent batch of hoodies the design took 20 minutes to run and the backing took 25 minutes to pick out (incompletely). so far we have found Madeira (of course) and ETC in the UK, but not getting the results I want from the samples of their backings that I've tried. Madiera's tear away goes from not strong enough to hold at 40g (comes out easily, but the stitch tension also tears the backing and the results are too inaccurate) to being hard to tear (pulled on the stitches & fabric too much) and leaving horrible long fluffy fibres at the 50g. We also tried the madeira 100g/m2 AS heat film but still too stretchy for the big hoops and it melted into the fabric when we tried to remove it. The water soluble was fun but not suitable for large hoops or fabrics that would water mark. we've got another batch of samples from the ETC stand at the NEC to try but their samples are never big enough to try in the larger hoops. With a single head in part time use we are not a high volume user so do not want to commit to big rolls unless we know they will work. are there any other backing suppliers and backing types worth trying in the UK?
  8. This is our first time to embroider on 100% silk camp shirts and would like any tips on the best way to do it. Ball or sharp needle? Backing type? etc. Thanks!
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