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Found 6 results

  1. An embroidered patch is a piece of art which is created by using a fabric backing thread and some form of a needle. Embroidered patches can be attached with a pin or can be sewn on, but some of the more modern methods of attachment include iron-on, dryer heat activated adhesive, and Velcro backing. The art of making embroidered patches is decades old but the introduction of new high speed, computerized machines have brought a once rare, time consuming art into mass production.[citation needed] Embroidered patches, an important identification tool for military and other uniformed personnel, trace their roots thousands of years ago to ancient cultures of the Mediterranean, Mideast, China, India and South America where the art of decorating fabric with thread stitching originated.[1] Elaborate hand-stitched designs and patterns were used to embellish the robes of royalty and for religious artifacts.[citation needed] Today, embroidery designs are used by government (including uniforms of the military, emergency services and other specialized workers) sports teams and companies in the private sector to denote rank, job, specific position or specialized unit. Youth groups, including sports teams, scouting organizations and specialized clubs often wear clothing emblazoned with embroidered patches. They are also used by space agencies on the uniforms of astronauts to denote the mission. Since 1971, the sole manufacturer of mission patches for NASA has been A-B Emblem of Weaverville, North Carolina. Space mission patches as well as fire and police patches are collected by enthusiasts as well.
  2. Can someone please help me. I am using a newly digitized embroidery design, and it has sewed out perfectly for me about the first 5 times. All of a sudden there are problems with it. Have tried different hoops, backing, changed thread, bobbin thread, needle, everything. Then it sews again good 1 or 2 times, and back to the same old stuff. Am using the same exact shirts to sew this design on. Has anyone had this problem before? Would appreciate any help. I have a Tajima TEHX-C1501.
  3. I have never had this problem before with this garments, but we are sewing a simple text embroidery design on thin tee like fabric (about as thin as wick away) and holes keep popping up in between the letters and inside the openings of the e's and g's, for instance. The letters range from small, .25" to larger, 1". The small letters are sewing the best. The lettering is fat and sewn in a satin stitch. We have tried less stitches, until it got too sparse, less underlay. Different types of underlay. Different types of backing and combinations there of. Any suggestions?
  4. Not sure weather I can use a tearaway or must I use a cutaway. Its a left chest Company logo all text. Not sure if I want to see the backing inside the sweater. Not everyone buttons the sweater. Any suggestions Thanks
  5. We are doing big designs, we're setting up for the Irish Dance Dress market but doing spinoffs of the designs onto hoodies and sweats. Mainly using the 300 x 300 to 450x480 hoop sizes. The range of fabrics we are trying to set up for is rather large too, anything from woven to stretch knits and even silks and crystal organza. The celtic knotwork and similar open designs also tend to be quite gappy rather than a solid fill so there are many areas of backing left between stitches. For stretch fabrics (hoodies and sweats) we are currently using 2 crossed layers of a directional tearaway obtained from AJS (38g/m2) but it is far from perfect. There is too much stretch when in the large hoops, and it takes ages to tear out afterwards. We are using tensioning stitches (running a 10mm x 2.5 mm pitch steil around the outside of the design area) to improve the stretch problem, but on a recent batch of hoodies the design took 20 minutes to run and the backing took 25 minutes to pick out (incompletely). so far we have found Madeira (of course) and ETC in the UK, but not getting the results I want from the samples of their backings that I've tried. Madiera's tear away goes from not strong enough to hold at 40g (comes out easily, but the stitch tension also tears the backing and the results are too inaccurate) to being hard to tear (pulled on the stitches & fabric too much) and leaving horrible long fluffy fibres at the 50g. We also tried the madeira 100g/m2 AS heat film but still too stretchy for the big hoops and it melted into the fabric when we tried to remove it. The water soluble was fun but not suitable for large hoops or fabrics that would water mark. we've got another batch of samples from the ETC stand at the NEC to try but their samples are never big enough to try in the larger hoops. With a single head in part time use we are not a high volume user so do not want to commit to big rolls unless we know they will work. are there any other backing suppliers and backing types worth trying in the UK?
  6. This is our first time to embroider on 100% silk camp shirts and would like any tips on the best way to do it. Ball or sharp needle? Backing type? etc. Thanks!
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