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Found 8 results

  1. Can someone please help me. I am using a newly digitized embroidery design, and it has sewed out perfectly for me about the first 5 times. All of a sudden there are problems with it. Have tried different hoops, backing, changed thread, bobbin thread, needle, everything.Then it sews again good 1 or 2 times, and back to the same old stuff. Am using the same exact shirts to sew this design on. Has anyone had this problem before?& Would appreciate any help. I have a Tajima TEHX-C1501.
  2. I am having a tough time not stretching or splitting my fabric. I have tried 2 backings and a washable front. I have tried slowing the machine but I just can't get it. I am using a Brother SE1900 embroidery machine with 90wt bobbin and 40wt embroidery thread. Please help and thank you in advance.
  3. An embroidered patch is a piece of art which is created by using a fabric backing thread and some form of a needle. Embroidered patches can be attached with a pin or can be sewn on, but some of the more modern methods of attachment include iron-on, dryer heat activated adhesive, and Velcro backing. The art of making embroidered patches is decades old but the introduction of new high speed, computerized machines have brought a once rare, time consuming art into mass production.[citation needed] Embroidered patches, an important identification tool for military and other uniformed personnel,
  4. There are two types of stabilizers: toppings and backings. A top stabilizer (topping) is used to prevent stitches from sinking into loosely spun and textured fabrics. Use a top stabilizer when embroidering on knitwear, velvet or velour to help stitches to stay in place. A top stabilizer won't prevent fabric from puckering. For this purpose, use backing. For laces, the backing is used as a base fabric. Machine embroidery stabilizers (interfacing, etc.) in our shop. Backing Backings are special, primarily non-woven materials, that provide support and stabilize the fabric during t
  5. I have never had this problem before with this garments, but we are sewing a simple text embroidery design on thin tee like fabric (about as thin as wick away) and holes keep popping up in between the letters and inside the openings of the e's and g's, for instance. The letters range from small, .25" to larger, 1". The small letters are sewing the best. The lettering is fat and sewn in a satin stitch. We have tried less stitches, until it got too sparse, less underlay. Different types of underlay. Different types of backing and combinations there of. Any suggestions?
  6. Not sure weather I can use a tearaway or must I use a cutaway. Its a left chest Company logo all text. Not sure if I want to see the backing inside the sweater. Not everyone buttons the sweater. Any suggestions Thanks
  7. We are doing big designs, we're setting up for the Irish Dance Dress market but doing spinoffs of the designs onto hoodies and sweats. Mainly using the 300 x 300 to 450x480 hoop sizes. The range of fabrics we are trying to set up for is rather large too, anything from woven to stretch knits and even silks and crystal organza. The celtic knotwork and similar open designs also tend to be quite gappy rather than a solid fill so there are many areas of backing left between stitches. For stretch fabrics (hoodies and sweats) we are currently using 2 crossed layers of a directional tearaway obtain
  8. This is our first time to embroider on 100% silk camp shirts and would like any tips on the best way to do it. Ball or sharp needle? Backing type? etc. Thanks!
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