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Found 8 results

  1. I have PE design 8 with the 8.3 upgrade and I run it on Windows 10. I also use embird with iconizer. This should show my embroidery files as picture thumbnails in PE design but it doesn't. I have tried everything but I can't fix it. Can anyone help? I'll put what I've already done below. I bought a new computer (which meant having to move the programmes in the first place) so they are installed on a brand new environment. I was installing a PE design 8 upgrade but after speaking to Brother and explaining my problem they thought the upgrade might be causing it so the sent me a PE design 8 full copy so that's what's now installed. My embird was 2018 so I updated that to 2020 too. I also had a number of emails with Dusan Balara from Embird and followed his instructions but to no avail. If I look at my designs in Windows they all have picture thumbnails but they disappear in PE design. Very annoying. Any help very welcome.
  2. Hello my embroidery friends! I just made this embroidery design in PE Desing Next and as you can see, there are small spaces between each shape.. I am using "Remove overlap" or "Set hole sewing" to remove of shape under second shape - hope you understand . In PC this space is not visible, but after sewing yes . Please, is here someone who knows how to fix it? And the second question: as you can see, the outline of white and orange part is a little bit elsewhere and not exactly in shape. Please, hepl me! Greetings from Czech Republic!
  3. Hi all I have the Brother PE180-D embroidery machine with PE Design Plus software. I need to shrink a design but the density is then too thick, is there anything in the programme to change this. I also have the free version of Wilcom
  4. Original text by: Lisa Prass Once an idea came into my head — to change the size of the digitized machine embroidery design, which I have downloaded from one of the numerous machine embroidery design websites. Having loaded the design file into the machine, I resized it and pressed the Start button. Imagine my surprise when I noticed that the result differed greatly from the one I saw on the screen. I began to investigate this problem presented and arrived to a conclusion that it's better not to change the size of a design created with the use of the other software... Changing the size of a digitized embroidery design: From the creator to the embroidery machine Each machine embroidery design has its creator (puncher), a designer who creates a file using machine embroidery software. The name of this software is sometimes known only to the designer himself. After the job is finished, the designer saves the embroidery design file in the special format, which is recognized by this software in case there is a necessity to resize the design or change the stitching sequence — in other words, to edit the file. Having decided to share his invention with people, the creator converts the file into various formats recognized by embroidery machines of various brands (*.HUS, *.PES, *.JEF, *.ART etc.). And so this embroidery design fall into the hands of a demanding customer who wants to change its size and gets a result completely opposite to what is expected. If the spacing between the stitches becomes too narrow, all those beautiful filling patterns become flat or disappear completely. To understand why it happens one should look into the interior arrangement of a digitized machine embroidery design file. The Inner Structure A digitized machine embroidery design file is basically a series of stitches together with special codes understood by embroidery machines. All file formats fall into one of the two categories: stitch formats and outline formats. Outline formats retain the detailed information not only about stitches and machine commands, such as Trim, Jump or Color Change, but also about fillings, object outlines and the instruments that created the design. We call this a "native file format". You can resize a design like that with no loss in quality using only the software in which it was created. Usually, the outline file remains in the designer's collection, while the stitch file is the one that is shared with the public. Stitch file only retains the stitch data and machine codes. All the details referring to object outlines and fillings are deleted from this file. A stitch file exist solely for the purpose of loading it into the embroidery machine and embroidering. But as different embroidery software tools as well as different embroidery machines use their own "languages", the native outline file of one software program will be recognized as a stitch file by the other or not recognized at all, if there is no such option available. Changing the size You can change the size of a design using software for creation of digitized machine embroidery designs or convertor software or the embroidery machine itself, if it has such an option. First, I want to point out that changing the size of an already digitized design is a thankless job and one should avoid it whenever possible. But it you are determined to make a ready-to-use design smaller, here are two ways of doing it: 1. Changing the size of a digitized embroidery design by re-calculating the number of stitches. Most of the software products for creation of machine embroidery designs have the object recognition option. In fact, this process may be called tracing from the stitch format into the outline one. If you are familiar with image editors, this process is similar to image tracing, i.e. converting a raster-based image into a vector-based one. When loading the design into the software or changing it's size the user can use the option of object recognition and in this case the software will try to single out a group of stitches which, in its opinion, resembles an object created with the help of available tools. I should point out that there is no contemporary embroidery design digitizing software that can fully recognize objects and recreate all the filling patterns. You will either get an object with wrong filling pattern or an object where the stitches are distorted. Such objects as straight stitch, satin stitch columns with the invariable stitch length are recognized better than the others. The objects that pose problems are the ones of an intricate shape with complex filling, made with alternate needle points, also satin stitch columns with different stitch lengths. 2. Changing the size of a digitized embroidery design without re-calculating the number of stitches. The process of resizing a design without re-calculating the number of stitches is very similar to changing the map scale. Remember your geography lessons. The map on the wall was much bigger than the outline map on your desk. The distance between cities is similar to the spacing between the stitches in a design (we call it density). Making a design bigger or smaller, you change spacing proportionally. When resizing a design without re-calculating the number of stitches you risk getting a design with not enough space between the stitches or too much space between the too long stitches. This happens because the program sees the design as the plain stitch with different spaces between stitches. This method is useful when the density of the chosen design doesn't suit you for some reasons, and you want to change it whereas making the design 5-10% bigger or smaller is OK with you. While changing the size of a design in that way don't forget to register the appearance of minimum and maximum stitches. Change the design size for no more than 5-10%. Consider that PES format is marked both as stitch and outline. Almost all software programs recognize it as stitch, and only PE Design considers it outline. But here's the nuance to it: a PES file must be created in PE Design, not converted into it in other software. EMB is an outline file, a native format of Wilcom software. It doesn't have any relevance to EMB stitch format, which is recognized by Pfaff embroidery machine.
  5. Original text by: Lisa Prass So, you have created or downloaded a machine embroidery design that does not fit you hoop. Now, to embroider the design, you should take a series of actions to split it. In this lesson I will show you how to split a design, how to add the alignment stitches and crosses, and how to save it into two different files, using a "Stitch" machine embroidery design in Photostitch technique as an example. The process includes several basic steps... Splitting a design: creating and positioning of the hoop Using the Rectangle tool, create additional objects that will imitate your hoop. Place them in the embroidery area so that your machine embroidery design would be within these virtual hoops. If you don't like what you see, change the position of the hoop until you will achieve the result you want. The hoops for which you split your design must have an intersection (remember what you learned about the intersection of sets at school?), otherwise the alignment with the help of crosses will be impossible. Splitting a design: how and where? The main task of splitting a machine embroidery design is that the separating lines must not be seen when embroidering. Therefore, you should understand where it is better to split an object and whether it is possible to get along without splitting. Learn to split so as to hide the separating lines under the last embroidered objects. After splitting the design in your mind, proceed to do it in reality. Instructions on what splitting tool to use and how, you can find in video tutorials on Youtube. Having split the design, you now come to the next part: adding of the alignment stitches. Splitting a design: adding alignment stitches/crosses Some people prefer alignment stitches, some use alignment crosses. Both are utilities allowing you to quickly and within the accuracy of 1 mm join two designs into one project while rehooping. Recommendations on what tools and with what preferences you should use when creating the utilities for making the joining process easier, you can find on Youtube. Alignment stitches and crosses are always situated in the hoop intersection area and are present in both first and second parts of a design. In the first part of a design they are embroidered last, and in the second they are embroidered in the beginning. They must match together. If they match loosely, you should rehoop the fabric or change the design position in the hoop. If possible, place you alignment stitches and crosses where there will be no embroidery. If there is no such possibility, delete them after aligning. Splitting a design: saving After having completed the splitting you should save the result into two different files, which will be embroidered one after the other, and choose which one of them will come first. In our example, we embroider the body first and then the head. Is it clear, why? Because if there is a minor offset, Stitch's head won't look like it is incorporated into his body. Before saving your design delete the virtual hoops, because they have completed their task and you won't need them anymore. After this lesson you'll have 2 files as a result: Body. PES and Head.PES. Steps in these files go as follows: Body.PES: First, you embroider all the objects of Stitch's body, then the alignment stitches and crosses. Head.PES: First, you embroider all the stitches and crosses, and then all the objects of Stitch's head.
  6. I have a machine embroidery design I want to use but it has been sent as Vector.eps to my email. How do I convert this so I can use my Brother PE design software? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,
  7. The thread codes that come up when embroidery design is inserted into PE design or Embird do not coinside with any of my RA numbers. How does one substitute one color brand for another when one doesn't have the correct thread codes. RA poly and maderia are my primary thread collections.
  8. Hello Everybody I found in internet beautiful FSL butterfly. One problem, this embroidery design is very small. I would like resize and decrease stitches density. When I open it in PE-DESIGN 9 NEXT (layout and editing), he sees it as stitches. And if I want to increase the size, the design becomes more dense and long stitches. Embroidery get ugly.
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