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Found 2 results

  1. I seem to do quite a few towels for corporate sponsors and for gifts especially around Christmas time, I am a niche embroider, my specialization is jacket backs, carpets and specialty items. However towels can offer a extra opportunity for your customers. When embroidering on towels I always use tearaway, whether I am sewing on golf or fishing towels, bath robes or bath towels. I also use topping on towels that have a high nap to them. If you sell towels in your store make them more attractive and package them with a inexpensive basket, I like displaying my blank towels in a basket like the one below, i also have samples of monograms and designs that can be personalized. Sell the whole package. Topping is a clear water soluble material, that holds the threads of the nap down, so your presser foot will not catch them. If your pressor foot catches them, it can cause the thread to pull out. Display your towels in a basket& When embroidering on towels there is no right or wrong however we have a guide that has some guidelines Placement guide for towels Because towels can often be heavier I would recommend using a medium tearaway type of backing. This usually will give the garment enough stabilizer, I have heard that some people sew without any but I always use it. If you have any wooden hoops or one inch plastic hoops I would recommend using them. I will normally use my wooden hoops for sewing on towels the screw offer more flexibility than the plastic hoops. Digitizing for Towels When digitizing for towels there are several thing you should get in the habit of. First I recommend quite a bit of underlay, I normally use perpendicular and zigzag when doing towels, this will help build up the machine embroidery design it also preps the material for the stitches really well, on towels with a high nap I may also increase the density of the underlay. The topping will help as well I also like to use pull comp at .02 inch absolute I find this will compensate for the fullness of the towels. I also like the density to be 75 spi I find this will eliminate the nap or the strands of the towel showing through the letter. When I can I use .15 to .30 thickness of letters about 2 to 3 inches high for monograms and for customer logos I use 3 to 4 inches high and about 5 inches wide. Outside the box In many embroidery shops we stick to what has been tested over and over again, howver there are new techniques and niche markets that may be availble to you, house coats are very similar to towels , depending on the material and sometimes you can package them together. First you will need to find a good source of Towels, bath robes, as the price point will often make it hard to compete with large companies, however if you find a source, contacting upper class, hotels, spas, and specialty clinics you can offer a wide range of custom embroidered items. Tips When workiing with towels its important to compensate for how plush the towel or robe is, how much nap or length of fibers and density, Regular embroidery designs will not have enough underlay or density for this application. I recommend you try different densities on your machine when embroidering towels or robs and try using zig zag stitch to hold down the nap.. If you need more underlay to build up the stitches add perpendicular on top of the zig zag stitch. Topping On some towels you may find the need for the use of topping, usually its a water soluable topping that you lay on top of the towel prior to stitching, this will hold the nap down when embroiderings. Sometimes the presser feet will catch a strand an pull it, this will eliminate that.
  2. How to use a Ruffler foot Today, we’ll be working with a presser foot designed for the creation of the pleats, frills and ruffles. A little while ago I promised to show you what the Ruffler foot is capable of. At the first glance, the contraption seems a bit complicated. Several adjusters and guides allow you to gather fabric and simultaneously attach ruffles to the garment. Let’s see how it works. The Ruffler foot structure: A bifurcated arm (4) serves to synchronize the attachment with the needle bar. The clamp (5) is for quick attachment of the foot to the machine. Two screws and the adapter at the rear enable the foot to move up and down, and to the left and to the right of the needle bar. Adjusters: The depth screw (1) determines the amount of fabric pushed into the foot every time it tucks: from 1 to 8 mm. With the ruffle regulator (2), you determine how often a ruffle will appear: every 1, 6 or 12 stitches. Once set it to *, the attachment will create no ruffles at all. Fabric guide lines: Green line — for the main fabric, no ruffles. Red line — the ruffling blade. Lilac line — the fabric feed plate (also for braids, ribbons). You may place your fabric along any of the three guide lines, but only using the red one will give you ruffles. Stitch at a low or medium speed! Types of ruffles and pleats: Single or double pleat. To create one or the other, place one (or two, in the latter case) pieces of fabric to be ruffled, along the red guide line. Set the depth screw at 4 or higher. Set the Ruffle regulator to 6 or 12. How to ruffle fabric and attach it to the main fabric simultaneously Set the regulators to make single or double pleats. Insert the main fabric into the guide along the green guide line. You can create a twisted pleat, using a capronic or a satin band, or a specially prepared piece of fabric up to 7 cm wide. Set the stitch length at 2.5 mm. Set the depth screw at 1–3, and the ruffle regulator at 1. It’s also possible to ruffle fabric and simultaneously attach it to two flat fabrics, on the top and bottom. In order to do this, insert the main fabric with its right side facing up, into the foot along the green guide line, and the fabric to be pleated along the red line, with its right side also facing up. Along the lilac line, place the second piece of fabric, with its wrong side facing up. Use the prongs on the foot for the width of the seam allowance to be consistent. How to attach a pleat, folded in half, to the hem of the garment Finish your seam allowance with an overlocker. Mark the width of the seam allowance on the right side with a fabric marker. Place the main fabric along the green guide line, and the fabric to be ruffled along the red one. Adjust the regulators. Stitch to create the ruffles. Press down seam allowance to the wrong side and stitch along the edge. Joining the satin ribbon to the pleat Place the main fabric along the green guide line, and the fabric to be ruffled along the red one. Insert a narrow (up to 5 mm) satin ribbon into the foot, using the prong. Stitch. These are just the highlights of what the Ruffler is capable of. Play around with it, creating your own variants. Read what you can do with the Ruffler foot: Original text by Yelena Kraftwork
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