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Found 27 results

  1. Hi all! Hoping for help. I’m doing a cap. Six letters offset to the left side on the cap. The beginning of the word is 1/8” lower than the last letter. It’s sewing uphill. How do I get the last letter flush with the first?
  2. Original text by: unknown Everything has its reason, and it is good when these reasons can be analyzed and understood and mistakes prevented before the material has been hooped and stabilizers, fabrics, threads and, what's most important, time have been wasted. Are you familiar with the situation when you overexert yourself, but all you get is an ill-looking embroidery with objects dislocated and the fabric pulled? How to prevent it? On the quality of machine embroidery Problems with a design One of the reasons of a bad embroidery is a low quality design. The main signs of the low quality design are: the lack of basting where it is needed, large quantity of stitches that are too short or too long, and also Tatami fill, which is the result of an automatic processing (90% of the designs created automatically are of poor quality and can be more or less normally embroidered on dense, well-stabilized fabrics). If you come across such a design, the result will most probably be deplorable. The reason for this are the mistakes made by the designer in the process of digitizing a design or the ones made by the user in the process of altering it. Identify a low quality design How to do it? In future, when you gain sufficient experience, you will discern problems in a design at the first glance. Problems with embroidery technique You have made some mistakes when preparing a design and then embroidering it, which resulted in a work of poor quality. Like using a stabilizer in a wrong way or embroidering a design on a wrong type of fabric. For example, a beginner may embroider a dense design on leather. As a result, the embroidery may just fall out, because numerous needle perforations will separate the embroidered piece from the rest of the fabric. Another embroidery technology mistake is loose hooping. The choice of a needle also may influence the quality of your embroidery. This particularly concerns embroidery on thin knitwear or such materials as leather, faux leather, upholstery fabrics and coated fabrics. Sure, you won't always have to put up with fabrics that give you problems, but you need to consider fabric+needle+thread in any case. For example, beginners and even experienced embroiderers often encounter a problem with embroidery on a perforated fabric or knitwear, because a thin and sharp embroidery needle only cuts the threads up. You should use a thin ballpoint needle for knits when working with such fabrics. Leather, especially cordovan or the the thick one used for belts, should be embroidered with leather needles, and the use of designs such as Blackwork or Redwork, where stitches are sparse, is preferable. Disregard for the rules of embroidery making may lead to a disagreeable result. For example, in case when a thin film, which is intended to be used as an upper stabilizer, is used as an underlay for a fabric or a main stabilizer for lace. Preparing for embroidery you should choose your stabilizer properly and carefully read the manual. A very common mistake is to hoop the fabric in a wrong way. When the fabric is loose, there are creases and cramps on it. And of course, you'll get a defective result, even if the design is good. To get a neat embroidery, with an even fill and without any creases and shifting of the details, you need to press the fabric beforehand, in order to stabilize it properly, to straighten the fabric in the hoop (try not to overdo it!) and to tighten the hoop screw so that the fabric would not move. Another mistake made by many embroiderers, especially those who just begin to learn the technique by themselves, is embroidering a dense design on knitwear fabric. Despite using a stabilizer an embroidery does not look good, because the fabric is pulled at the edges, and the embroidered area is much more rigid than the rest of the fabric, to the point where it seems like a piece of wax. If you have embroidered right on the item, without doing a test piece first, your favorite pullover or your client's jacket is ruined. To avoid problems like that choose the fabric that matches your design in density. Problems with embroidery equipment. If your machine breaks the thread • The main reason for it may be an accumulation of thread fragments and lint in the tensioner and also the dirt under the throat plate. Take off the top that covers the lamp (you won't lose your guarantee, but will be able see everything inside) and inspect your machine carefully (you can use a magnifier). If you find fragments of threads and other litter, remove them. • One more reason for the thread breakage is the poor quality of embroidery threads.Try the threads of some other brand and see how they work in your machine. • The third reason for thread breakage are needles. The needles need to be replaced from time to time, because they wear down. It's not very economical to replace them often, but if the thread breakage continues, it's time to do it, because there may be a burr in the needle's eye. • Also the thread may break because of adhesive<. even adhesives specifically manufactured for machine embroidery may if applied in large quantities stick not only to the fabric but needle too. lint accumulates thread gets stuck it and breaks as a result. Clean your needles with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol and try to apply less adhesive in future. Too much stabilizer In some cases, such as embroidering a painting, you need it to be very dense, but a thin stabilizer or several layers of printing paper, which is used by many money-saving embroiderers, adds friction, so when the thread goes through a lot of layers, it becomes frayed and eventually breaks. What is the most unpleasant, the thread may be in this state for a while, and the machine won't signal its breakage, and the embroidery will be done incorrectly for a long time. This won't happen if you choose a stabilizer of an appropriate density. Too loose or too tight upper thread or underthread tension may have a negative impact on the quality of the embroidery. Underthread may show on the right side and ruin the look of your design. You need to regulate it, either by yourself, following the instructions in your manual, or with the help of a service engineer. Loops on the wrong side usually appear when the upper thread is loose because it did not get between the tension discs. Some models have their own way of threading: in some the foot must be up, in the others — down. In order to fix it you need to rethread the machine, in accordance with the manual. The automatic trimming between the objects does not always have a good impact on the design. For example, it's better not to trim a cross-stitch design that has numerous individual crosses lying very close to each other. In case of automatic trimming the you'll get a thick fringe of thread ends and the machine will have trouble embroidering. Each case requires a unique approach, depending on the design, and you should turn down the automatic trimming option if needed, either in the software or in the machine. This is an incomplete list of embroidery technique irregularities and the reasons for low quality output. Beginners sometimes get rather inventive. Nevertheless, if you read this and learn to avoid some mistakes, the success is guaranteed. We wish our readers to accomplish only the best quality while embroidering!
  3. Does this only come in one format. I need jef
  4. I recently got a Brother SE-400 and I love it! I make patches and I managed to make a few before I started to have issues. The original design is below. My first try went like this... (if you can't tell, it's bent like a bowl) This is what it looks like when I flattened it using my fingers... (there's still considerable puckering around the text) Then I tried it again, this time with a lower tension. It started out fine, but by the time it got to the yellow (the third color), it was puckering again. When I tried to do the black, it had puckered so bad the needle was only going down in one spot. It was unable to move. I used 3 layers of iron-on stabilizer and I sewed them together in a desperate attempt to stop the puckering. It's not necessarily that the fabric around it is puckering, its that the actual DESIGN is. I use medical tape to keep it from sliding around in the hoop. I still have puckering!! What should I do?
  5. Hello.. I have problem with my Brother PR620. When machine uses thread on position n. 6 it stops after few stiches. It says check upper or bottom thread. But everything is ok with threads. What else could be wrong? Anyone?
  6. I didn't get 2 of the 4 Nascar design, I download it thru a zip file and also individually and I still didn't get any data. I am missing the 4.73 x 0.90 and the 3.94 x 0.? (missing on your website).
  7. I'm trying to find the Free Embroidery of the Zebra with Sunglasses... Can anyone help? Can't seem to find it anywhere. Thanks
  8. Hi I am new to this site but am having massive trouble finding the actual download button for the large Zebra with glasses, can anyone please help me
  9. Hello all, I post here because I have a little problem with my new Brother PR670. I have buy this machine for made a lot of caps, and particularly embroidery in 2D/3D on New Era 59FIFTY caps (fitted). I have a little problem with the machine, it's the brim of the cap, the brim (visor) friction on the back of needles bar with the Brother cap frame ( and sometimes can lock the machine if the logo is too down on the front), so I have take another hoop cap frame from Hooptech (the Gen2 cap frame), it's really better, but I need to made my logo too up on the front of the caps. Anyone have find a fix of this issue (or a miracle hoop/frame) ? Because on 59fifty cap, the visor can't be bend :( Kind regards, Jerome.
  10. Cannot download. Is there another link please?
  11. Hi everyone, I have a Brother NV800 Embroidery machine. I've been doing some topstitch experiments and run into some issues. As you can see in the attached photo, the original test (outlined in blue) with a 100/2 Polyester thread looks good. But when I used a 30 Thickness Cotton embroidery thread, I'm getting these weird results (outlined in red). The stitch width for both examples is 2mm. I tried adjusting the sewing speed to minimum for cotton, and even adjusted the tension, to no avail. The machine's instructions say I can't use a thread of 20 or thicker. I'm using the same thread for topstitch and bobbin. Any advice? Thanks!
  12. Hi All. i have zsk embroidery machine and tajima pulse software.when i do satin embroidery on hat stitches come out.complex fill designs are okay,only satin stitches making problem.i am sure this is software issue because it is not happening on digitized designs.i use between 0.2 to 0.4mm density and around 10% plus compensation which increase stitch thickness. i attached some pictures about my software.Does anybody have idea? i am really stuck and i need your help guys.Thanks.
  13. My husband bought me a used Brother PE embroidery machine (PE-150 with manufacter date of about 2002) and it came with a Simplicity Box and 2 blank Cards. We could not get the Simplicity box to work with Windows 10, so we investigated and saw that the Brother PED-Basic worked with Windows 10. We bought one on ebay for $40, but it had no card. We thought it would be able to read/write to the blank Simplicity cards...i mean they are the same card right? But the reader will not recognize the cards. Does anyone know if there is a way to reformat the Simplicity card to work with the PED basic? The cheapest we could find a blank brother card was for $60.
  14. Hi there I purchased and downloaded some designs on 11/14/2013 and there is one design that is to big to transfer into my machine, it is order number 3567 and it is the monster high logo, the design name comes up as monst1.pes. Could you please resize this design to fit in a 4x4 hoop, I would need it to be a zipped file format and for pes. Thank you for your time. You can email me the attachment for it to the email address above.
  15. Hello The files I downloaded from your site, even the PDF file shows the tail is not stitched in white. I am attaching them along with the embroidery files I downloaded. The file you attached did have the white stitching around the tail, and within the letter D -- what would cause the difference between the files, is it possible to you to send me the file you used to stitch it out, because what I download is missing the white around the tail and white between the D. I purchased them on July 11, 13 and just stitched them out for my Grandson's birthday gift. I just tried to download again, and the files still do not look like the one you sent picture of with the white stitching around the tail, etc. I am also attaching the jpg files of the outcome from my stitching using your Dtiger1a file. As you will see, there is no white around the tail nor white within the letter D. It was stitched upon a sweatshirt jacket (navy blue). I used a medium weght cutaway stablilizer on bottom and a light weight wash away stabilizer on top of the jacket. Here is the information you requested Machine - Viking Diamond Deluxe 5D Embroidery software Sulky thread Thank you
  16. Can someone please help me. I am using a newly digitized embroidery design, and it has sewed out perfectly for me about the first 5 times. All of a sudden there are problems with it. Have tried different hoops, backing, changed thread, bobbin thread, needle, everything. Then it sews again good 1 or 2 times, and back to the same old stuff. Am using the same exact shirts to sew this design on. Has anyone had this problem before? Would appreciate any help. I have a Tajima TEHX-C1501.
  17. I want to buy the downloaded file pes format ravenclaw Thanks
  18. Hi, I bought the Boston Bruins embroidery design from you, well I have tried several pieces of fabric but I keep getting it distorted, the fabric that I do my embroidery is Kona medium weight solid colours, can you please help me with this? Exactly what kind of stabilizer do you use and how many layers, My machine is a Brother quarto 6000d, thank you in advance for all your help.,
  19. Please help can not write to my Bernina usb stick keep on getting OBJECT NOT COVERED some objects are not covered by hoops so they will not be stitched. PLEASE HELP
  20. I read about Sequence view in manual. Ant not see this in my Tajima. Where this option& Without this i not check order of layer or reorder digitizied blocks.
  21. Help! I digitized a box with a check mark in it and it looks great but when I try to shrink it down, the check mark area goes berserk, like it's stitching from the right upper end of the check mark to the left end of the check mark without going down into the V of the check mark. Hopefully, I'm not confusing anyone too much. Anybody got a clue what it is doing? And how can I shrink this down without it going haywire?
  22. Hello I upgrade my PC and install some old software. Some software working without problem , Some as Tajima Pulse not working. Whats wrong? I using any mode (options) and not working.
  23. There was a problem. My customer asked EMB file format. After the complete of the order, he informed me that the machine does not understand the file. As a result, we convert embroidery in DST format. And he uses the design. But this is not the solution. Who had same a situation? Please wrote...
  24. Where the program saves my spiral fill? I searched in the main folder and found nothing. Please help ... I wanted to share the my fill. I have Tajima Pulse version 14 maestro//
  25. How adjusting nodes to the grid? I don understand. Where have this options..Please help...
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