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Found 7 results

  1. Machine Embroidery is a timeless art that has evolved from hand stitching to modern machine embroidery. Digitizing embroidery designs, the process of converting an image or artwork into a digital embroidery design, is an important step in producing high-quality embroidered items. However, with so many options available, it can be overwhelming to choose the right digitizing software. In this guide, we'll share some essential considerations to help you make an informed decision. Choosing the Right Digitizing Software When selecting digitizing software, you need to determine the features that meet your needs. Here are some important factors to consider: File Formats: Check whether the program creates and saves the file formats that your embroidery machine can read. It is critical to ensure compatibility between your software and machine. Pricing: Digitizing software prices can vary significantly, from a few hundred dollars to more than $15,000 for professional-grade software. Consider your budget and requirements before investing in a program. Add-ons and Ad-vanced Versions: Most machiine embroidery digitizing software comes with basic features and add-ons or advanced versions that provide additional capabilities. Decide whether you need these extras or not. Support and Training: Look for programs that provide adequate support, training, and updates. User-friendly software with excellent customer support can save you time, money, and frustration. Auto Digitizing Function: Some software comes with an "auto digitize" function that automatically converts artwork to embroidery design. However, this feature may not work well for complex designs, and you may need to tweak the settings manually. Conversion to Multiple Formats: If you plan to sell your embroidery designs, it's important to convert them to multiple file formats. Not all programs can meet this requirement, so verify before investing. Density and Other Adjustments: A good digitizing program should provide easy-to-use density, pull compensation, underlay, and other adjustment tools to help you produce high-quality designs. Undo Steps: Digitizing requires attention to detail, and sometimes, you may need to undo a few steps. Consider a program that provides a sufficient number of "undo" steps or allows you to save designs at different stages. Fonts: Determine the number and types of fonts available in the software. Check whether you can use TrueType fonts and whether they can be digitized automatically. Brick and Mortar Sales: Finally, if you plan to purchase software from a physical store, be aware that salespeople may pressure you into buying a product that may not suit your needs. Do your research, and go in prepared. In Conclusion Digitizing embroidery is an essential process that can help you produce beautiful embroidered items. When selecting software, make sure to consider the factors we've discussed in this article. The right software can help you create stunning embroidery designs that stand out from the crowd.
  2. In this blog we will look at preparing the fabric for your designs, and understanding why you should use a particular type of underlay in building a foundation for the machine embroidery design. Underlay Types There are many names for the basic types of underlay in Pulse products you have several types, including Contour, Parallel , Perpendicular, Zig Zag, Lattice , Full Lattice and Center run. Contour Underlay When no underlay is applied, the thread making up the satin column lays flat on the fabric. This not only makes the embroidery look flat, but it allows the grain or nap of the fabric to peek through. Many new designers would increase density to block out the fabric peeking through, but it would be more effective to apply the proper underlay. Tip set the contour to .02 inches on the inset to make sure it doesn't stick out on corners. Never use by itself on a fill. Parallel Underlay My favorite for text , I use the parallel underlay on any column stitch or steil stitch when ever possible, I find it gives the columns a good foundation prior to the stitching, its like a zig zag stitch but not as dense. I use it on knits and many of the stretchy type materials, including golf shirts, t-shirts, sweats, and hats and knitted caps. Perpendicular Underlay The perpendicular underlay puts a column of lines down the center of the column and is often with each line just off center. I have used this with towels when I want to raise the text up a bit in addition to using zig zag. Advantages of this it will help push the column apart as the stitching goes in opposite direction of the satin stitch. Zig Zag Underlay Zig zag underlay provides additional loft than what can be achieved by Perpendicular or Contour. These two underlay types are especially effective at lifting the top stitches on fabrics such as pique, terry cloth and fleece. Due to their lofting characteristics, they are also used to give life to design aspects such as leaves or muscle tone to animals. Zigzag underlay is often used in addition to center run underlay where the center run is securing the fabric and the zigzag is creating the loft. This combination is the most under-used of the underlays, but when used at the appropriate time can set your design apart from others. Best used on satin stitches, Lattice Underlay It can best be described as a light density fill, normally running perpendicular to the top stitch. The fill underlay anchors the target fabric to the backing and is the best way to reduce the push and pull factor so common to fill areas. It also lifts the top stitches up and allows a much less dense fill to be applied. This is the best way to prevent your designs from suffering from "bullet proof" fill areas. First placing a Contour underlay and then a lattice underlay has proven to be the best combination for medium to large fill areas. Center Run ( New Version 14 only) In version 14 there is a new underlay option called center run it places a stitch right in the center of the column. This is very useful on small text as it helps keep it conformed to the space provided, and doesn't usually cause to much bulk for theses small letters. Automatic Underlay Automatic underlay can be applied with a recipe or style when using the software or you can apply it by going to properties and adding the type of underlay you want. You can also adjust the inset, density, the stitch length and angle of the stitches, number of lines, drop stitch or angle of the underlay. It can be very useful. Manual Underlay I use manual underlay when working with fills that have steil borders and or when the garment has a lot of stretch too it. Typically Automatic underlay goes under each segment, however there are times when you want the underlay to go under both segments all at once. This will eliminate the two parts pull apart, the easiest way to make this is to use the complex fill tool draw a shape around all the segments and cover them completely, see comparison below; Above you will see both the manual and the automatic have both a lattice and a parallel underlay applied, the Automatic the two underlays do not overlap where as the manual you can place the underlay underneath the parallel which will prevent the two from separating. I use this method quite a bit when digitizing. Terminology for Underlay Settings Angle The angle of the underlay Connection End The type of end used , option include, Sharp, Square Chiseled and Zig Zag. You can change the connection end to adjust either the appearance or how the design sews out. Density The density of the underlay how thick the underlay stitches will be, normally around 10.5 spi Drop run stitch Is a setting to ensure the proper placement of the run stitches, setting include None, At Anchor, Chord gap. At Anchor Drops the run stitch and penetrates it at the anchor points - None forces the run to stitches to follow the stitch length - Chord Gap places the stitches fit to the top portion of the curve smoothly by shortening stitches at the top of the curve Inset The distance the underlay stitches are placed from the edge of the top stitching. Inset A The outside inset Inset B The inside inset Max Chord gap The Max Chord Gap is the maximum gap between two points on a bezier curve. Min Stitch length The minimum stitch is usually set to .02 normally you do not want to go under this however sometimes you want this stitch higher. Override Some setting in the underlay they use a particular pattern, there are times when this is not suited for the application Repeats This is a setting when you want the underlay to repeat Sometimes it better to go over the same spot Sequence The sewing order of which underlay goes down first sometimes you want a perpendicular to go down before doing a parallel stitch to give some extra support. Stitch Length The length of each stitch on the underlay, the shorter is ideal when working with smaller sizes, but does increase the stitch count Application Notes 3D Foam When applying underlay to use with foam you have to remember that you do not want to suppress the foam, if you feel the need to add underlay use a contour underlay with a short stitch length. Make sure the design is made for puff. Leather With leather you do not want the underlay to punch a hole where the designs is going to go through this can cause the material to rip , With leather reduce the density of the underlay, and rotate the underlay to a 45 deg of the top stitch pattern. Small Lettering I recommend using either the center walk on small letters or punching the underlay manually, watch the stitch lengths, and use a smaller needle and thread. Large Lettering I using parallel or a lattice to compensate for the amount of stitches going down, recommend cutaway to support large letters in large hoops. General Recipes Fabric Backing Underlay Compensation Notes Broadcloth Cutaway Parallel Percent 110 Burlap Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Canvas Cutaway Perpendicular Absolute .01" Chamois Cutaway Parallel Percent 110 Chartreuse Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Chiffon Water-soluble Perpendicular Percent 110 Cloth Diapers Tearaway Parallel Percent 110 Corduroy Cutaway Perpendicular/zigzag Percent 110 Denim Cutaway Parallel Percent 110 F aux Fur Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Use 505 spray on backing F aux Suede Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Use 505 spray on backing F aux Leather Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Use 505 spray on backing Felt Tearaway Parallel Percent 110 Flannel Tearaway Parallel Absolute .01" Fleece Cutaway; Perpendicular/zigzag Absolute .01" Jersey Knit Cutaway Perpendicular Absolute .01" No stretch cutaway Leather Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Use 505 spray on backing Linen Tearaway Parallel Percent 110 Micro Pique Cutaway Parallel Absolute .01" No show backing Microfiber Cutaway Perpendicular Absolute .01" Neoprene Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Use 505 spray on backing Nylon Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Organza Water-soluble Perpendicular Percent 110 Pique Cutaway Perpendicular Absolute .01" . Satin Cutaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .01" no show backing Silk Cutaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .01" no show backing Spandex Cutaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .02" Sweater Knits Cutaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .02" Sweatshirts Tearaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .02" Cutaway can be used T-Shirts Cutaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .02" Towels Tearaway Perpendicular/zigzag Absolute .01" Topping can be used Velor Cutaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .01" Velvet Tearaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .02" Wool Cutaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .02" NOTES 1 On most designs you can get away with a 75/11 needle, however if you find yourself needing small detail and or small text invest in some small needles like 60/8 or 65/9 needle and some 60 weight thread this will allow your small designs or designs that have a lot of detail to be crisp without bulking up the design. Small fonts in your software have underlay built in, you will need to 2 sheets of cutaway to helps support the text. NOTES 2 If you plan on using the recipes in your software please note they are general notes, the design the type of backing, manufactures and shirt type can all impact the design. Its your job as an embroider to learn when you need to change the backing, and to troubleshoot your choices. NOTES 3 Make sure you use the smallest hoop that will fit the embroidery design.
  3. In this blog we will look at preparing the fabric for your designs, and understanding why you should use a particular type of underlay in building a foundation for the design. Underlay Types There are many names for the basic types of underlay in Pulse products you have several types, including Contour, Parallel , Perpendicular, Zig Zag, Lattice , Full Lattice and Center run. Contour Underlay When no underlay is applied, the thread making up the satin column lays flat on the fabric. This not only makes the embroidery look flat, but it allows the grain or nap of the fabric to peek through. Many new designers would increase density to block out the fabric peeking through, but it would be more effective to apply the proper underlay. Tip set the contour to .02 inches on the inset to make sure it doesn't stick out on corners. Never use by itself on a fill. Parallel Underlay My favorite for text , I use the parallel underlay on any column stitch or steil stitch when ever possible, I find it gives the columns a good foundation prior to the stitching, its like a zig zag stitch but not as dense. I use it on knits and many of the stretchy type materials, including golf shirts, t-shirts, sweats, and hats and knitted caps. Perpendicular Underlay The perpendicular underlay puts a column of lines down the center of the column and is often with each line just off center. I have used this with towels when I want to raise the text up a bit in addition to using zig zag. Advantages of this it will help push the column apart as the stitching goes in opposite direction of the satin stitch. Zig Zag Underlay Zig zag underlay provides additional loft than what can be achieved by Perpendicular or Contour. These two underlay types are especially effective at lifting the top stitches on fabrics such as pique, terry cloth and fleece. Due to their lofting characteristics, they are also used to give life to design aspects such as leaves or muscle tone to animals. Zigzag underlay is often used in addition to center run underlay where the center run is securing the fabric and the zigzag is creating the loft. This combination is the most under-used of the underlays, but when used at the appropriate time can set your design apart from others. Best used on satin stitches, Lattice Underlay It can best be described as a light density fill, normally running perpendicular to the top stitch. The fill underlay anchors the target fabric to the backing and is the best way to reduce the push and pull factor so common to fill areas. It also lifts the top stitches up and allows a much less dense fill to be applied. This is the best way to prevent your designs from suffering from "bullet proof" fill areas. First placing a Contour underlay and then a lattice underlay has proven to be the best combination for medium to large fill areas. Center Run ( New Version 14 only) In version 14 there is a new underlay option called center run it places a stitch right in the center of the column. This is very useful on small text as it helps keep it conformed to the space provided, and doesn't usually cause to much bulk for theses small letters. Automatic Underlay Automatic underlay can be applied with a recipe or style when using the software or you can apply it by going to properties and adding the type of underlay you want. You can also adjust the inset, density, the stitch length and angle of the stitches, number of lines, drop stitch or angle of the underlay. It can be very useful. Manual Underlay I use manual underlay when working with fills that have steil borders and or when the garment has a lot of stretch too it. Typically Automatic underlay goes under each segment, however there are times when you want the underlay to go under both segments all at once. This will eliminate the two parts pull apart, the easiest way to make this is to use the complex fill tool draw a shape around all the segments and cover them completely, see comparison below; Above you will see both the manual and the automatic have both a lattice and a parallel underlay applied, the Automatic the two underlays do not overlap where as the manual you can place the underlay underneath the parallel which will prevent the two from separating. I use this method quite a bit when digitizing. Terminology for Underlay Settings Angle The angle of the underlay Connection. End The type of end used , option include, Sharp, Square Chiseled and Zig Zag. You can change the connection end to adjust either the appearance or how the design sews out. Density. The density of the underlay how thick the underlay stitches will be, normally around 10.5 spi Drop run stitch. Is a setting to ensure the proper placement of the run stitches, setting include None, At Anchor, Chord gap. At Anchor Drops the run stitch and penetrates it at the anchor points - None forces the run to stitches to follow the stitch length - Chord Gap places the stitches fit to the top portion of the curve smoothly by shortening stitches at the top of the curve Inset The distance the underlay stitches are placed from the edge of the top stitching. Inset A. The outside inset Inset B The inside inset Max Chord gap The Max Chord Gap is the maximum gap between two points on a bezier curve. Min Stitch length The minimum stitch is usually set to .02 normally you do not want to go under this however sometimes you want this stitch higher. Override Some setting in the underlay they use a particular pattern, there are times when this is not suited for the application Repeats This is a setting when you want the underlay to repeat Sometimes it better to go over the same spot Sequence The sewing order of which underlay goes down first sometimes you want a perpendicular to go down before doing a parallel stitch to give some extra support. Stitch Length The length of each stitch on the underlay, the shorter is ideal when working with smaller sizes, but does increase the stitch count Application Notes 3D Foam When applying underlay to use with foam you have to remember that you do not want to suppress the foam, if you feel the need to add underlay use a contour underlay with a short stitch length. Make sure the design is made for puff.. Leather With leather you do not want the underlay to punch a hole where the designs is going to go through this can cause the material to rip , With leather reduce the density of the underlay, and rotate the underlay to 45 deg of the top stitch pattern. Small Lettering I recommend using either the center walk on small letters or punching the underlay manually, watch the stitch lengths, and use a smaller needle and thread. Large Lettering I using parallel or a lattice to compensate for the amount of stitches going down, recommend cutaway to support large letters in large hoops. General Recipes Fabric Backing Underlay Compensation Notes Broadcloth Cutaway Parallel Percent 110 Burlap Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Canvas Cutaway Perpendicular Absolute .01" Chamois Cutaway Parallel Percent 110 Chartreuse Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Chiffon Water-soluble Perpendicular Percent 110 Cloth Diapers Tearaway Parallel Percent 110 Corduroy Cutaway Perpendicular/zigzag Percent 110 Denim Cutaway Parallel Percent 110 F aux Fur Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Use 505 spray on backing F aux Suede Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Use 505 spray on backing F aux Leather Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Use 505 spray on backing Felt Tearaway Parallel Percent 110 Flannel Tearaway Parallel Absolute .01" Fleece Cutaway; Perpendicular/zigzag Absolute .01" Jersey Knit Cutaway Perpendicular Absolute .01" No stretch cutaway Leather Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Use 505 spray on backing Linen Tearaway Parallel Percent 110 Micro Pique Cutaway Parallel Absolute .01" No show backing Microfiber Cutaway Perpendicular Absolute .01" Neoprene Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Use 505 spray on backing Nylon Cutaway Perpendicular Percent 110 Organza Water-soluble Perpendicular Percent 110 Pique Cutaway Perpendicular Absolute .01" . Satin Cutaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .01" no show backing Silk Cutaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .01" no show backing Spandex Cutaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .02" Sweater Knits Cutaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .02" Sweatshirts Tearaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .02" Cutaway can be used T-Shirts Cutaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .02" Towels Tearaway Perpendicular/zigzag Absolute .01" Topping can be used Velor Cutaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .01" Velvet Tearaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .02" Wool Cutaway Perpendicular/parallel Absolute .02" NOTES 1 On most designs you can get away with a 75/11 needle, however if you find yourself needing small detail and or small text invest in some small needles like 60/8 or 65/9 needle and some 60 weight thread this will allow your small designs or designs that have a lot of detail to be crisp without bulking up the design. Small fonts in your software have underlay built in, you will need to 2 sheets of cutaway to helps support the text. NOTES 2 If you plan on using the recipes in your software please note they are general notes, the design the type of backing, manufactures and shirt type can all impact the design. Its your job as an embroider to learn when you need to change the backing, and to troubleshoot your choices. NOTES 3 Make sure you use the smallest hoop that will fit the design.
  4. hi there, is there a standard density satin stitched lettering should have when going over the top of a complex fill stitch? when i do say 5-6mm lettering on top of a complex fill, i usually have the density at -.5 to -.6, with the pull comp at approx .12 to .15 - it normally comes out looking great, except where the stain stitch letters have the same angle as the complex fill, causing the lettering to fall away and get lost in the complex fill.making these letters look thinner than the rest. and should there be an underlay on small text when going onto of a complex fill stitch?? i normally use a single line underlay stitch at approx length of 1. to 1.5. can anyone out there help, this is lettering our digitizing and quality down your help would be greatly appreciated thanks
  5. Hi there, i have been digitizing for awhile now and sometimes i notice when i have digitized a rectangle or square complex fill with either a 45 or 315 degree angle stitch, it sews out crooked. does anyone out there know why this is?? the fabric? the underlay? the density? its getting quite frustrating as the rest of the design will look fantastic but the simple block behind the logo just lets the overall look of the logo down.any help would be hugley appreciated, thanks
  6. Hi guys, Is anybody else having this issue? I'm working on a design and I go to add underlay and all of the fill stitching disappears. I tried resizing the embroidery design and everywhere I had done shading all of the fill underneath disappeared. This just started today. I did another design with some of the same features 2 days ago, and it worked just fine. I thought perhaps I was missing a release update, so I checked and yes, I was one behind and ran that, but the problem still exists! HELP!!!!!!
  7. What type underlay stitch you use? Whether you use a manual method of laying machine embroidery stitches.In Printwear I read an article about the ability to make some digitizers using manual non-standard methods. Question how is it necessary? This requires more time, ie, the order will cost more.
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