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Found 188 results

  1. Hello guys. My name is MJ and I am completely new to the embroidery / digitizing scene. I am 24 years old having recently graduated school. Unfortunately I decided to go down a different career path. I want to learn to digitize but am overwhelmed by the helplessness of where to begin. I have NEVER worked with embroidery or embroidery machines before. I am one who takes heavy interest in design and I do have appreciation for embroidery. I just do not know where to begin. Communities from Reddit told me to find work at an embroidery shop and learn some basic knowledge about embroidery and only then should I start to learn the digitizing software. Do you guys agree? I am already looking for work at embroidery shops but it is hard because I do not have any experience and many do not have time to train. What would you guys do if you were in my shoes? COMPLETELY NEW to embroidery/digitizing and wanting to learn... Thank you so much.
  2. Hi there, Sorry if I´m not clear enough, I´m from Mexico and I have a brother BAS-423. So far this machine has worked wonders for me but lately I´ve come across a problem I can´t get around. Let me explain: The machine is working just fine, it finishes embroidering a color, cuts the thread and, when it´s supposed to bring the needle all the way up in order to make a color change, ONE of the three heads consistently leaves the working needle just in the middle between the garment and the upper position. The needle actually stays IN the presser foot when it should be in the upper position. So when the machines carries on to make the color change, the needle hits the presser foot and the machine stops the process. This happens with all of the needles of that same head. I figured the problem was the jump solenoid so I´ve managed to dismantle the head and extract it, but before buying a new one (they´re really expensive around here) I´d like to be sure a replacement is definitively needed. I´d like to stress that other than that, the machine works just fine, so I´m very doubtful whether the solenoid is actually the problem. Thanks to all of you in advance, Alan.
  3. Hello people. I hope you're taking care of yourselves. Can anyone DSG editable files? (Software Stitch ERA by Sierra 17.20) ?? Thanks in advance
  4. Did sombody find out how to digitize for this material? I'm having troubles with a filled circle. The digitizing company we are using has no idea about digitizing for this material, so I had to do edits to the design, changing the understitches and the fills, but still can't get it right. Any tip about digitizing this (we've got lot's of tips about hooping) would be really appreciated! Attached is my embroidery file for this design. Thank you so much!!! Carolina Sosa Embroidery Manager Righteous Clothing Agency. Portland, OR 1799a.EMB
  5. Decorating a kitchen: an embroidered pot holder Not only will an embroidered pot holder protect your hands from scalding but also make your kitchen look lovely. In the course of our collaborative projects, the participants are required to embroider any of the kitchen or table textiles of their choice. No need to do something complex, as one can always make a pot holder. An embroidered pot holder. Materials Sole-colored cotton, 2 pieces Printed cotton, 1 piece Tearaway adhesive stabilizer Upper thread Underthread Scissors Cotton lace Padding material An embroidered pot holder. The making process I used two sole-colored pieces of different fabrics for the embroidered part and for the back part of my pot holder, with a binding. I could have cut the front and the back parts out of the same fabric, as it would look more natural if the whole thing was white. But I didn't have the necessary amount of white fabric, and therefore, I supplemented it with beige one. Let’s embroider a design first. Stabilize your fabric and hoop it. Select your threads (I do it beforehand, and sort them in the order of sewing), and start the embroidery. While the machine is going, you can make yourself a cup of coffee, pausing occasionally to change the thread. Once the embroidery is ready, unhoop the fabric and do the cutting. Natural fabrics, being heat-resistant, are preferable. My pot holder was a simple square one, with no bells and whistles. As for the batting, felt, wadding or drape cloth are most common, but if you don't have any of those, and you only plan to use the pot holder for the decoration, you may use polyester batting instead. Attention! Polyester batting is highly thermal conductive and has a low melting threshold. You’ll need to cut two square pieces, one sole-colored and one printed. Don’t use vividly colored prints; the fabric should not distract attention from the embroidery. It would be better if one of the colors of the fabric will match one of the main colors in your design. Out of the embroidered piece, cut out a pocket with seam allowance, so that the design is right at the center. Lay a piece of lace on top of it, facing into the right corner. Cut with allowance, in case it shifts during sewing, and you don’t want to rip it off. Prepare the binding. It is usually cut on a bias, but if you don’t have enough material, you may use a simple rectangle instead. First, I stitched the batting and the beige fabric for the back part of my pot holder. These are simple square pieces, no difficulties here. You may mark them for better alignment, but I did it by eye, and it came out fine. Then I stitched the pocket and the lace to the front part. I ironed out the edging so that it would sew easier, pinned the corners and carefully stitched along the edge. Now be very careful and make sure that the stitch goes along the top edge of the binding in one go and doesn’t slide down the lower one. If you set your machine at a low speed and keep steadying it along the way, it will come out fine. Be extra careful at the corners (alas, I didn’t manage to achieve perfection here). I don’t like basting and step-by-step stuff, all this dilly-dallying just doesn’t agree with me. But if you prefer to work that way, you can baste the thing first. Cut your binding a little longer than the perimeter of the pot holder; we’ll make the surplus into an eyelet. Your pot holder is ready! You may insert your favorite recipe into the pocket. Original text by Mary Stratan
  6. Circular embroidery attachment Being an owner of a wonderful Brother Innov-is 950 sewing and embroidery machine, I constantly seek to add functionality to it. I’m able to do it with various accessories and attachments. Today, I want to tell you about a circular embroidery attachment which is not listed among the Brother machines accessories. I bought it on a trial basis, without being sure whether it is compatible or not. Now I am able to state with confidence that it is indeed compatible not only with my machine but also the whole number of other models. Circular embroidery attachment. Materials Dense fabric Circular embroidery attachment Sewing threads Scissors Embroidery or sewing and embroidery machine Circular embroidery attachment. How to install and sew I covered all the key aspects in my video. I want to additionally stress several, in my opinion, important points: During the attachment installation, the long lever should hover over the screw that holds the needle in place. Only in that position the attachment will move in the proper way, forming a circular pattern. The upper thread should be above the attachment prior to the beginning of the embroidery. Make sure that is doesn’t get underneath. The lower side of the attachment is covered with a thick non-slippery material that allows moving the fabric in the right direction. If the thread gets under the attachment, the fabric will shift, and the embroidery will come out warped. If you’re going to use thin fabric, make sure to strengthen it with a machine embroidery stabilizer prior to the embroidery. A tearaway adhesive works fine, as it is easy to remove after the work is done. You may choose from a multitude of decorative stitches (including zigzag) in your circular embroidery. Before starting on the real thing, do not forget to do a test sew first. Turn off the feed dog before starting the embroidery. The attachment itself will feed the fabric. With its help, you will be able to embroider circular designs of three different sizes: large, medium-sized and small. To change the size, you’ll need to loosen the screw, move the attachment to the “plus” or “minus” side and tighten the screw again. Double needles, too, may be used for circular embroidery. The attachment is also compatible with such Brother machines as: Boutique 27, Comfort 10, Comfort 15, Comfort 25, Comfort 25A, Comfort 35A, LS2125, LS3125, Prestige 100, Prestige 200, Prestige 300, Prestige 50, Universal 17, Universal 25, Universal 27S, Universal 37S, XL-2130, XL-2140, XL-2240, XL-2250, XL-2600, XL-3500, XL-2120, XL-2220, XL-2230, XL-5050, XL-5060, XL-5070, XL-5500, XL-5600, XL-5700. Original text by Mary Stratan
  7. Machine embroidery with subsequent coloring Today, I want to share a very interesting project that involves machine embroidery and coloring. A ready-made child raincoat was used. In the course of making, a lining had to be ripped off, and sewn back again after the project was completed. I needed to do that to keep the inner side of the garment neat and clean. The idea was to embroider an outline and then to paint the inner areas with different colors, using color textile markers made specifically for such purposes. For this project, I needed: A child’s raincoat Tearaway stabilizer Black embroidery threads and lower (bobbin) thread Color textile markers (permanent) Brother embroidery or sewing and embroidery machine Design creation and editing software Creation of the design First, I created an embroidery design. Suitable vector images were found on the Internet. You can use bitmap images, too, if you like, but they usually take much more time and effort. Several fragments of the embroidery were thus converted and later aligned with each other during the embroidery. Embroidery In this particular case, it was convenient to use the largest hoop available. As the embroidery was conducted on Brother Innov-is V7 machine, it was practicable to use a 300 x180 cm frame that comes with the machine – it helped to reduce the number of rehoopings. A rightly chosen stabilizer is a must if you want to get a high-quality embroidery. I used Filmoplast. In order for the outline to look sharp and distinguished, it was digitized as a double stitch. After the embroidery was completed, I removed all stabilizer leftovers from the wrong side. The embroidery ran along the lower hem of the garment, and also around the sleeves (which were, too, unseamed in advance). The embroidery took quite a lengthy amount of time, but the result was worth it! The raincoat looks very original and exquisite! Let’s proceed to the coloring. For the last step, we required permanent textile markers. A happy owner of the future raincoat was invited to join the process; she readily employed all her skills to her heart’s content. A few hours of pleasant collaboration – and an exclusive raincoat is ready! It’s certainly one and only! Original text and sewing project by Olga Milovanova
  8. I ordered the North Face logo embroidery design on 3/2, and according to Paypal, my payment went through. However, it\'s not in my order history, and I\'ve not found a place to download it. Please help?!
  9. Hello all! I have been tasked to find and purchase an embroidery machine for my workplace .. but I have no idea where to start. I figured this place of passionate people would be a great place to start! My employer is looking to bring their jacket embroidery in house. We use a 4 inch wide logo on the front and an 11 inch wide logo on the back. These logos are colored. Does anyone know any machines that are beginner friendly that would no exceed the $3500 range budget? Would be super grateful for any direction. Thank you!
  10. Version EMB format for Wilcom Tr

    953 downloads

    For convert and resize this embroidery design you can using this free FREE embroidery converter by Wilcom True Sizer: .
  11. Hello In this topic published information and picture with embroidery logotypes created as customer digitizing. If you want this logo please send request as Contact us form.
  12. This beautiful and useful biscornu Biscornu is a French word, meaning something like “quirky”. You can see these cute thingies in almost every home. Even those who only sew on a button or two from time to time, keep them within reach as something to stick superfluous pins and needles in. A skillfully crafted biscornu may serve as an admirable decoration. But that’s all prattle. My point is this: almost all DIY biscornu tutorials concentrate on pincushions for cross-stitch embroidery done by hand, and practically nobody ever mentions the possibility of doing all the sewing and embroidery on a machine. As I already said, the work “biscornu” is of a French origin. It literally means “something uneven”, “with horns or projections”, “irregular”, “funny”, absurd”. For the embroiderers, this word denotes a small polygonal cushion, more or less symmetrical. This skewed little thing may serve as a pincushion, a pendant, a keychain, a scissors fob, and even an ornament. If you add some suitable adornment, you can even hang it on a Christmas tree! Many people would be happy to receive one as a present. Let’s create a biscornu. In this article, I’ll tell you how I made my own. To make a biscornu, you’ll need: 1. A piece of evenly woven fabric (linen or dense cotton). 2. An embroidery machine. 3. Embroidery threads. 4. Optionally, buttons, beads or seed beads, sequins, and rhinestones. 5. Water-soluble or tearaway stabilizer. 6. A design (you may get one from our store https://embroideres.com/). 1. Let’s start by hooping stabilizer and fabric. Tighten the screw and additionally secure the fabric with pins, so that it doesn’t shift during the embroidery. 2. Load the design into the embroidery machine, attach the hoop and embroider both parts of your biscornu. 3. Attention! The essential part of biscornu decor is backstitch running along the edge of the design. It will be used for the joining of the two parts. 4. Both parts of our biscornu are ready. Cut them out with a 1 cm seam allowance. 5. Before you start assembling the thing, locate the centers of every side of your squares. Mark center points with pins. Join the center of one square with the corner of another. This will give the thing the required skewed shape. The assembling process is fun, but it’s also time-consuming, so switch on an audiobook or an episode of your favorite TV series. We’re going to sew the parts of our biscornu by hand. 6. Pick up the needle and the thread (same as you used for the backstitch), fold it in half so that there is a loop at one end. Move the needle through the first backstitch, then back and through the loop, thus securing the thread with an invisible stitch. 7. Pull the thread through 2 corner stitches. 8. Continue in this manner, joining the stitches of square No1 with the stitches of square No2, until your biscornu is stitched up on three sides. You only sew half of the fourth side, leaving an opening for the stuffing. 9. Snip the inner corners. 10. Stuff the things with bits of polyester batting or another padding material. 11. Sew the opening. 12. Your biscornu is almost ready. Let’s add some finishing touches. 13. Fold the thread in half, so there is a loop at one end, and thread the two ends through the needle. Find the center of every side of the square, and with a long needle pierce the biscornu through. Then bring the needle back and through the loop. 14. Pull the thread through the buttons, gathering your biscornu a bit. Having looked at my biscornu the following morning, I realized that I didn’t like the buttons. So I replaced them with beads. Good luck and easy stitching to you all! Creating biscornu is fun! Tutorial supplement. How to create a design for a biscornu Loading the design 1. Open Embird Editor and click on Cross Stitch. 2. Load the design via Chart Import. 3. In the window, click on the part of the design and use the Crop tool on it. You should get something like this. Press OK. While cropping the image and placement of the marks, use +/- to zoom in or out. 4. In the next window, place the red marks as shown in the picture below, and click on Align Grid. In the window that pops up, you’ll be offered to place a number of crosses between marks 1 and 2, and also between marks 2 and 3. Type in 10 (the number corresponds with the real number of crosses between the marks) and press OK. 5. See whether the red greed aligns with the chart greed. If yes, press OK. If the two grids don't align, click on Undo Alignment and change the placement of the three marks. A 100% alignment is not necessary. The loading image FAQ How to activate the Crop button? Open your image (step 3), and immediately after that place the cursor in the spot A. Holding down your left mouse button, move the cursor to the spot B. Release the button. Now the Crop tool is active. Why did you place the red marks in those places, and not in the corners? Why 10 crosses? You can place the red marks whenever you want them, and set any spacing you like (even if it is only 1 cross). Play around with the options and see what works best for you. Drawing the pattern 1. First of all, let’s choose the color. Click on the Eye Dropper tool on the toolbar. Left-click on the wine-red color. It will appear in your color chart. 2. Click on Line and create the objects 1, 2 and 3. 3. Now, click on Pencil, and create the objects 4, 5 and 6. Play with these tools a bit. Note the difference between them. Decide for yourself, in which cases you would prefer Line, and when Pencil would be better. 4. Click on the Eye dropper again, but this time choose grey. 5. Now click on Line and draw the objects 1,2 and 3. 6. Click on Pencil and draw the rest of the objects. We’re done with drawing. Let’s proceed to the last part, copying and pasting. Copying and placement Before copying and placing the symmetrical pattern, you’ll need to change the size of your work area. 1. Go to the Options menu and click on Preferences. 2. Check the Keep Aspect Ratio box and change the value to: 3. Your work area now looks like this: 4. Click on Marquee (vertical toolbar) and select your pattern. Press Auto Repeat. 5. In the opening window, set the following values: right pointing arrow (1), mirror horizontally (2), spacing -1 (3). Press OK. 6. Using the Marquee tool (step 4), select the pattern and click on Auto Repeat. 7. The window will pop up, where you set the following values: The arrow pointing down (1), mirror vertically (2), spacing -1 (3). Your pattern is ready. Save the file in the necessary format. For those who don’t want to bother with all that, here you can download the design. Original text by Irina Lisitsa, tutorial supplement by Lisa Prass
  13. I have tried downloading the free orange flower design and a few other designs but none of the files will download successfully. The error message says "this file doesnt have an app associated with it and that I have to download an app or if one exists then change it in the "Default Apps Settings" which I dont know how to get to on my computer. Please advise ASAP.
  14. Placemats with machine embroidery Preparing for a holiday, one must take a number of things into account, such as buying or creating presents, inviting guests, home decoration, etc. To make your table look inviting, you’ll only need several pieces of fabric and a sewing and embroidery machine. Sew the placemats and decorate them with machine embroidery that your guests will love! Placemats with machine embroidery. Materials Outer fabric Inner fabric Between-lay Tearaway adhesive stabilizer Sewing and embroidery threads Placemats with machine embroidery. Preparations Cut the 48x38 cm rectangles out of the outer and inner fabrics, as well as the between-lay material. Put them together in this way: first goes the inner fabric, right side down, then the between-lay, and the upper fabric with its right side up on top of it all. Pin the layers together and draw the straight or diagonal lines with the help of a long ruler. Using the walking foot with a guide, stitch the layers together along the lines you’ve just drawn. Start with the centerline, and gradually work your way to the sides. Placemats with machine embroidery. Embroidery Choose a design from the machine’s memory or download one from our store. When you use designs from your machine’s memory (letters, for example), you can change their size up to 20% directly in the machine. If you are in a mood for creativity, and the machine’s capabilities are not enough, you might want to use PE Design. Stick a tearaway adhesive to the wrong side of your fabric. Hoop and run the embroidery. After the machine has finished stitching, unhoop the fabric, and remove the stabilizer leftovers. Cut out the pockets or decorations for your placemat. In order to create a pocket for the cutlery, stitch on the seam allowance. Insert a cardboard pattern and gather the thread. Press the cutout with an iron. Placemats with machine embroidery. Assembling The pockets can be sewn on with a straight stitch on the sewing machine or by hand (blind stitch). For the neat edges, use the edge stitch foot. The details may be attached by a zigzag stitch or any of the decorative stitches. Bias binding is good for the edges. You can cut it from the main fabric or you may use the companion fabric to make your bias binding a part of the decoration. To attach it to the placemat, use the edge stitch foot. Placemats are easy to sew, and there is an unlimited number of decorations. Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  15. Heart-shaped scissors holder with embroidery Want to learn how the simplest design, a couple of stitches and tools make a cute item? This tutorial contains a bare minimum of technique, a couple of tips and a step-by-step guide to creating an original scissors holder shaped like a heart. A gift like this will warm the heart of any crafter. And, if you have a really creative sewer/embroiderer for a friend, who owns lots of scissors, you may even give it to them instead of a Valentine. Heart-shaped scissors holder with embroidery. Materials: Sole-colored fabric (non-stretchy) Felt (thick) Tearaway adhesive stabilizer Upper embroidery threads Lower embroidery threads Scissors Machine embroidery design Heart-shaped scissors holder with embroidery. The making process Prepare the necessary materials. Load the design into your embroidery machine and attach the sole-colored fabric to the stabilizer. This will be our front (embroidered) panel. I usually prefer a tearaway adhesive, but in this case, a nonadhesive tearaway will do just as good, as will a cutaway stabilizer. If you use the last one, you may leave it in place after embroidery; in that case, you’ll have a strengthened front panel. If you’ll choose to make an entire holder out of thick felt, you may spare the stabilizer altogether. The next step is to attach the hoop to the embroidery machine and start the embroidery. Home embroidery machine will make stops for a thread change. Once the embroidery is finished, unhoop. Leave the stabilizer in place, if you wish. On the embroidered fabric, draw a triangle in such a way that the design fits exactly in its center. Keep in mind the size of the scissors, for which the holder is intended. Before cutting the triangle out, decide whether you will fold the edges or not. If yes, don't forget to leave some fabric for seam allowance (or fraying, as shown in this tutorial). Pick up a sheet of paper, draw the triangle and then add two half-circles to transform it into a heart. You may skip this part and draw directly on felt. It is easier to draw on paper, so, if you're not an artist (I’m not), do as I did. Press the paper template to the felt and cut the back panel of your holder. You’re almost done. The fabric I chose for my front panel frays a bit. I decided not to fold the sides in order to hide the edges. In order to prevent the upper edge from fraying more than it is necessary for decoration, I add a decorative stitch at some distance from it. Now I join the sides with the back panel. I use threads of the same color as the felt. One last thing: I pierce a hole on the side and tie the ribbon in a bow. A piercer came with my sewing and embroidery machine. If you do not own one, use a substitute. Voila! Your scissors holder is ready! Original text by Mary Stratan Pick the design you like from our store! https://embroideres.com/
  16. Monogram pillow: a tutorial A pillow with an embroidered monogram is a home textile classic. It makes a wonderful wedding, jubilee, christening or no occasion gift. Pillows are wonderful for machine embroidery beginners who want to learn the machine embroidery basics and practice to acquire the necessary skills. This is a brief guide into making the embroidered monogram pillows. Monogram pillow. Materials Fabric Zipper Braided cording with lip Machine embroidery design Cutaway or tearaway adhesive stabilizer Water-soluble stabilizer (optional) Upper thread Underthread Monogram pillow. Cutting For a pillow size 40x40 cm cut two squares of side 43 cm. I used non-stretchy upholstery fabric, dense but with a pronounced twill weave. Before you start working, you should finish the edges of this fabric with the serger, in order to prevent fraying. Monogram pillow. Embroidery Adhere the stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric. Find the center of each side and draw the crosshairs. Their point of intersection will mark the center of your future embroidery. Hoop your fabric. Attach the hoop to the machine and cover it with a layer of thin water-soluble film (in case the weave of the fabric is a pronounced one). Select the basting stitch and stitch the water-soluble stabilizer to the fabric. Hit the start button and embroider your design. You may pick a sole-colored or a multi-colored one or embroider a multi-colored design without changing the upper thread color. Some embroidery/sewing and embroidery machines have an option of monochromatic embroidery. Peruse the manual that comes with your equipment to use its capabilities to the fullest. Having finished the embroidery, remove the stabilizer leftovers. Monogram pillow. Cording Round the edges of your pillow a bit. Stitch the cording to the right side of your pillow, along the edges. To attach the cording at the corners, make small incisions so that it lays more easily. Stitch it with a special cording foot or a zipper foot. Original text by Irina Lisitsa Don't forget to visit our shop to buy some lovely monograms! See also:
  17. Hooping the fabric without hooping Practically any new technique is born in the course of creation. Again and again, we conjure out new techniques that make our production time shorter and our coffee breaks longer. The hooping method I’m going to describe in this article was suggested to me by one of the Broidery.ru forum first members. And, just like in the Broken Telephone game, while passing hands the concept changed somewhat, though I tried to stick to the original one. Sergei Demin, who inspired me, endorsed my version and promised to elaborate on the original idea in the nearest future. Before you start reading, I’d like to tell you in what cases this wonderful little technique might come in handy: Use it to embroider a large number of the same size designs. It will save you a lot of time. If your fabric is of a lightweight and delicate kind, this method will allow you to forego the hooping part. If you do not own a small hoop, and for a larger one the piece to be embroidered is too tiny, this method will spare you sewing on additional strips of fabric in order to enlarge it. You understand, no doubt, that I’ve covered only the basic rules here — it is for you, dear reader, to expand upon them! So, happy hooping without hooping! The work order You’ll need a piece of polyethylene a little larger than your hoop, double-sided painter’s tape, and the hoop. Hoop the polyethylene. Better pick plastic sheeting they use for covering greenhouses: it is dense enough and doesn't warp (almost). Stick the painter’s tape to the inner side of the hoop. After that, unpeel the protective layer. Stick another layer of tape on top of the first. Determine the size of the embroidery area. Then, cut the hole with 5 mm allowance. Choose an appropriate stabilizer and attach it to the wrong side of the fabric. Place the fabric on the prepared surface and start the embroidery. Having finished, remove the embroidered piece of fabric and replace it with the new one. Continue the embroidery. In order to determine the size of the embroidery area, attach the taped hoop to the machine. Load the design and observe the embroidery area on your display. The machine will determine the boundaries of the design and move the needle bar to outline the perimeter, making short stops at the corners. When the needle is directly above the corner, drop it to make a puncture in the polyethylene sheet with the painter’s tape attached to it. Raise it, and the machine will continue the demonstration. Having found the 4 corner points, you’ll draw a rectangle without difficulty. After that, cut the hole the size of the embroidery area with 5 mm allowance. Keep in mind that the sticky side of the tape should hold the fabric in place, and therefore, this method may not be suitable for the designs almost as big as the hoop. Use the sticky hoop until the adhesive tape fails to hold the fabric in place. Idea by Sergei Demin See also:
  18. On this picture you can see progress on work on Dreamcatcher embroidery design. It is not finished yet but it is clear that result will be very beautiful. One of reasons is interesting solution of color scheme. Author chose dark background fabric and bright color of thread for this embroidery. Together they create impressive contrast that underlines elegance of sample.
  19. This is machine embroidery design created as FSL. Digitizer and author Marina Belova. It is made on base of Flower lace embroidery design. It can be used for creation stylish and elegant accessories for your kitchen or dining room. You can take any shade of thread that you like to create one or more beautiful decorative work pieces.
  20. hey do you have a Embroidery designs from Disney channel junior, Special agent OSO, my grandson loves agent OSO, so I will so must have this Embroidery, so can you help, hope you understand my English. Kind regard
  21. This is pretty embroidered set of serving napkins with a charming fairy. They can give special atmosphere for holiday meal of your children and their guests, for example at birthday party. You can use this embroidery sample to decorate almost any things from handkerchiefs to bed linen. This design will look adorable on everything. You can buy it here: Baby love fairy embroidery design
  22. This is nice example of executed pretty embroidery sample with creative approach. Author chose Baby love fairy embroidery design for this work piece. But then original embroidery was added by extra elements. They are mylar, glitter, tulle and ribbon applied. Furthermore author changed original color scheme to make it more suitable for intensive shade of background. This is amazing result!
  23. Here we will place everything that can be repaired and restored with the help of machine embroidery. The word "clothing" is here applied conditionally so that it is not associated with the repair of embroidery technology.
  24. Hallo, ich habe die Datei herunter geladen, jetzt sind beide zu groß :-( Was kann ich da machen, so dass es trotzdem schön bleibt?
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