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Beautiful design, Morning owl look amazing.

This embroidery work up perfectly and stitch out nicely. 
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Excellent stitches and original style

Stitched out beautifully! Looked amazing and no issues!
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Loving birds.. Wonderful designs, stitched out beautifully

Really cute, You love this when you stitched it. Would love more of same designs.
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Our designs looks great

Stitched out beautifully! Wonderful decoration!
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Adorable design. Stitches out beautifully.

"Thanks so much for this design It's lovely and stitched out beautifully on leather."
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  • How to turn a pair of jeans into a bag

    How to turn a pair of jeans into a bag
    Dig an old pair of jeans or velour trousers out of a closet. Done? Now I’ll tell you how to turn them into a bag. Creating a new item out of something that isn’t fashionable anymore or just something you got tired of is a task for a real craftsman (or craftswoman)! This bag can hold all the necessary paraphernalia: knitting needles, knitting threads or an embroidery kit.

    Materials
    A pair of jeans Sewing threads, same color as the stitching on jeans Scissors, pins A piece of cardboard How to turn a pair of jeans into a bag. Cutting
    For the job, you’ll need one trouser leg together with the waistband. Measure the length of your future bag, starting at the top hem of the waistband, add 8 cm and draw a mark. You’ll need allowance for the bag bottom. Cut one leg only. Rip the leg seam and also where the zipper is sewn on. Remove the zipper.


    How to turn a pair of jeans into a bag. Assembling
    Fold the trouser leg with its right side inside, aligning along the side seam. Align the edges, if necessary. Pin the fabric along the side and the bottom seams of the future bag.


    Sew them together with the straight stitch and whip stitch the edge. Join the stitch lines on the side and the bottom seams. Fold them at an angle. Draw the mark from the corner center. Draw a line perpendicular to the corner, it should equal the width of the bag bottom in length.


    Stitch with straight stitches along the line. Turn the bag the right side out.


    Cut out four strips of fabric for the handles. The length and width of the handles should equal their width plus turn-ups. Fold the strips together with their right sides together and stitch along one long side.


    Press open the seam, fold each seam allowance inside and press. Fold the halves of the handles wrong sides inside and secure with pins.


    Select the triple stitch on your sewing machine. Stitch along the long sides. Whip stitch the short edges. Pin the handles to the top of the bag.



    Stitch the handles to the top of the bag, stitching exactly as you did previously. In order to strengthen the bottom of the bag, you can cut a rectangle same size as the bottom out of cardboard.


    Your bag is ready!
    Original text by Irina Lisitsa

    Patchwork pillow on embroidery machine

    Patchwork pillow
    A soft and fuzzy pillow with frayed edges that one can easily create by utilizing scraps from other embroidery projects. The edges will become more frayed with every time the pillow is used.

    The pattern is basically an ordinary square; the seams will go inside so they won’t need a finish.
    One cannot have too many pillows, but what if you have more ideas than your flat has free space? The solution is a simple one! Sew several pillows and change their “clothing” often. Pillowcases don’t take much space and can be washed, if necessary.
    Pattern
    To create a fluffy pillowcase, take a piece of cardboard and draw a square of side 10 cm plus 2 cm for fraying. Cut out 16 squares from fabrics of various colors.


    Arrange them as you wish, matching them by color and print. Cut 16 more squares out of white baize or white chintz; these fabrics are easily frayed and suitable for creating the chenille effect.


    Install the feed dog on your machine and stitch the cutouts together into horizontal bands. If you're going to join multiple layers (4 in our case) with an ordinary foot, lessen the foot pressure first.
    The details should be joined with their wrong sides facing each other.


    Pin horizontal bands together, in order to mark the places where the seams meet. 


    Stitch the details together, folding the fray allowance from the seam on both sides before they go under the foot. 


    Having finished stitching, you’ll get the outlined squares on the wrong side, and fray allowance on the right side of the fabric. Rip off the stitching where the fray is.


    Fray the allowance at a distance of 0.5 cm to the stitching and fluff it. You may leave the last bit to your washing machine :) Several washing cycles will fray your pillowcase alright.


    The back side of the pillowcase and the button panels:
    The back side of the pillowcase is comprised of two rectangles 48 by 27 cm.
    On one side, where the button panels will be, attach a 3 cm wide strip of the adhesive stabilizer. 


    Finish the edges with overlock or with overhand stitch.
    Fold the edge by 3 cm and stitch with a straight stitch; cut the buttonholes on one of the details.



     
    Pin the two pieces of the back side of the pillowcase together with their wrong sides facing each other. Mark the starting point at the distance equal to the fray allowance.
    Starting from any corner point, sew the parts of the pillow perimeter-wise, rotating it at the corners. Having finished, trim the edges.



    Cut the fabric reserved for fraying, avoiding the stitching.


    Sew the buttons, cut the buttonholes and put your pillow into your new pillowcase. Done!



    Original text by Olga Ionova

    Machine embroidery on terry cloth: the guidelines

    Machine embroidery on terry cloth: the guidelines
    Every one of us becomes familiar with terry cloth in early childhood: our favorite bathrobes and bath towels are made of it. Terry cloth is most commonly used to produce items for home. Embroidery on terry cloth is a pleasure, for the fabric is stable and doesn't stretch. The loops are, perhaps, the only disadvantage, but if you are familiar with the correct hooping technique, and know how to choose a stabilizer and a design for the particular fabric, you needn’t concern yourself with them.

    In this article, we’ll cover the main points of the embroidery on terry cloth. One needs to keep in mind that all this information pertains to home embroidery and sewing and embroidery equipment; nevertheless, many of the recommendations will be applicable to commercial embroidery equipment as well.
    Terry cloth: its composition and properties
    Terry cloth is an uncut-pile fabric used in the production of towels, beach robes, bath slippers, bed linen for grown-ups and kids, children’s toys, and even bar furnishings.



    As for its composition, terry cloth is usually made of cotton, linen or, less frequently, bamboo. The fabric absorbs a lot of moisture and doesn’t stretch.  These properties, along with the range of uses, make terry cloth very attractive for the embroiderers, both amateur and professional ones.
    Lately, synthetic fibers are used in the making of the fabric rather often. This lowers its quality a bit, but using it as your main fabric does not affect the result of the embroidery. There are advantages as well. Baby bibs are made of terry cloth that is partly composed of synthetic fibers. They are soft, and the after-effects of breakfast and dinners easily wash off them. 
    Terry cloth differs in weight, thread twist, and loop height. These are the main properties one should pay attention to when mastering the embroidery on terry cloth.

    The higher the loop, the greater the possibility of its sinking into the fabric or showing through the fill. The thicker the fabric, the more likely you’ll have trouble with hooping it, as such fabric will be more difficult to properly secure. It is possible, but not easily attainable, and besides, do you really need it? Let's proceed.
    Choosing machine embroidery needles and threads
    When embroidering on terry cloth, one shouldn’t concern oneself too much with the needles. Ordinary embroidery kind will be just fine.  In case there is trouble, use specialty needles listed below.
    For the embroidery on a loosely spun terry cloth, use ball point needles, such as the ones designed for knitwear. They separate the yarns without cutting them.
    For the embroidery on a dense terry cloth with high uncut pile and containing a great number of synthetic fibers, use a topstitch needle with a sharp tip. Such a needle easily pierces the material, thus preventing the slip stitching.
    If you’re going to use metallic threads, use the needle designed specifically for that purpose; metallics are whimsical: when passing through an eye of a wrongly chosen needle, they tend to fray, which at best costs them their luster, and at worst makes them snap a lot. 

    Any threads may be used for the embroidery on terry cloth—cotton, polyester, wool, etc. The main thing that matters is their durability. Rayon and metallic thread are, perhaps, the less washable: they don't get along well with bleachers and other chemicals used in laundry.
    We’ll probably offer nothing new in the bobbing thread choice department. Use a common bobbin thread (white or black, depending on the design color scheme). Its thickness will depend not so much on the chosen fabric properties as on the whims of your embroidery machine. It has been noted that some machines do not take to a very thin bobbin thread (#200).

    When embroidering a design on a terry towel, try to choose a bobbin thread of a matching color—in that case, the wrong side will look tidier. Keep in mind, though, that it will make the embroidery thicker. 
    Choosing a stabilizer
    For the embroidery on terry cloth, the stabilizers listed below will come in handy.
    When embroidering on terry cloth, the backing is used not only to prevent puckering but also as the main fabric that will be hooped.
    Tearaway nonadhesive stabilizers are preferable. They can be easily removed without scissors.
    On the market, you’ll find this kind of stabilizer in two colors, black and white. The color of stabilizer depends on the color of the fabric. It’s better to use black backing with dark fabrics, and a white one with light-colored fabrics.
    Stabilizers also differ in weight. For the embroidery on terry cloth, use the following stabilizers: 1640, 1650, 1751, 1860.

    Use stabilizers 1751 and 1860 for the dense terry cloth with high uncut pile (bath towels, bathrobes), and stabilizers 1640 and 1650—for the terry cloth with a low uncut pile (face towels).
    In addition to the nonadhesive stab, a temporary spray adhesive will be necessary.
    Filmoplast 
    As a backing, Filmoplast (a tearaway stabilizer with a sticky surface) is the most convenient. It comes in two colors, white and black. You can attach it to the fabric immediately after peeling off the protective paper.
    More on how to work with these materials in the Hooping methods section.
    Adhesive stabilizers may be used as well, but in that case, you’ll have to hoop the fabric, and there is no need to hoop the terry cloth. Besides, hooping terry cloth means to make the whole process more complicated. 
    For a topping, we recommend a water-soluble film that prevents the stitches from sinking into the fabric and can be easily removed without washing.

    Other kinds of topping are of little use for the embroidery on terry cloth. You may use them, but with no avail.
    Hooping methods
    Hooping terry cloth is easy. There will be no need to get the fabric tight as a drum or keep an eye on it so that there is not a single wrinkle, as you do with knits. After two or three attempts embroidery on terry cloth will become easy to you.
    Methods of hooping depend on the kinds of stabilizers recommended for the terry cloth.
    Materials
    Nonadhesive stabilizer (backing) Spray adhesive Water-soluble film Hoop the nonadhesive stabilizer. Carefully smooth down the stabilizer and tighten it a bit so that is doesn’t sag.
    Tighten the screw.

    Spray the upper side of the stabilizer with a temporary spray adhesive.
    Place the fabric with its right side facing up on top of the stabilizer.
    Pin the water-soluble film on top of the fabric.

    If you have some trouble locating the embroidery area on your machine, use a template. Any template has an embroidery area marked upon it.
    Materials
    Filmoplast Water-soluble film Scissors Hoop the Filmoplast. Carefully smooth it down and tighten it a bit so that is doesn’t sag. Tighten the screw.
    With your scissors, make an incision in the stabilizer’s protective layer. Peel off the protective layer.
    On top of the stabilizer, place your fabric with its right side facing up.
    On top of the fabric, place the water-soluble film.
    Pin it to the fabric.

    If you have some trouble locating the embroidery area on your machine, use a template. Any template has an embroidery area marked upon it. 

    Choosing machine embroidery designs
    The vast majority of machine embroidery designs gives one freedom to act. When choosing a design, one should learn to see it from the inside. To understand which fills the creator has used and whether the embroidery will look good on terry cloth. Having tried different embroidery techniques, you’ll come to the conclusion that in the majority of cases a topping should be used for the embroidery on terry cloth. If you’ll stick to this rule, the embroidery on a garment will undoubtedly come out beautifully. In order for you to know your way around the plenitude of machine embroidery designs, we offer the tried-and-true variants with the detailed account of the results.
    We have lots of logos and other designs in our store.
    All of the showpieces were embroidered with the help of the 1751 nonadhesive tearaway stabilizer.
    All stitching designs may be divided into two main kinds: 1) Double run—as a rule, all quilting and Redwork designs are made with simple double running stitches 2) Triple Run—every stitch is repeated three times.


    The record shows that Triple Run designs come out good with or without the water-soluble film on top. After you’ve removed the stabilizer leftovers and gently passed your hand over the surface, the difference is hardly visible.
    As regards Double Run, one may state that it is better not to use it while embroidering designs without topping. The difference is clearly pronounced. The picture below shows the same design embroidered with and without the topping.

    One should not forget that the design embroidered with running stitches on terry cloth may in time sink into the fabric, despite the result being satisfactory right after the embroidery. Therefore, here’s what we propose: embroider stitching designs on thin terry items with low uncut pile (face towels) and refrain from doing that on thick terry items with high uncut pile (bathrobes and bath towels). 
    A highly popular kind of machine embroidery designs are congratulations and inscriptions, and also logos made with satin columns. Monograms are also created with the help of satin columns. This kind of designs is perfect for towels, bathrobes and other items made of terry cloth.
    To provide you with full information on the subject, we have embroidered terry cloth with satin stitches under different circumstances. In the picture below you can see a monogram embroidered with the topping and without.

    We’ve tested the design on the least troublesome fabric with the low uncut pile. 1751 nonadhesive stabilizer was used as the backing. When embroidering monograms that consist of satin columns and fills without topping, thread breakage often occurs. The thread is caught in the loops, and that leads to chaffing. Thread breakage is not linked with the needle type or the kind of thread used (we’ve tried metallic, rayon and polyester embroidery threads of various manufacturers).
    The difficulty was also caused by the fact that the thread didn’t break at once but was chaffed so that the machine continued to embroider for some time after that. When embroidering the same design with the topping, the thread didn’t snap even once, and what’s more, the embroidery ran at a higher speed, with an excellent result.
    The embroidery without the stabilizer ran at 350 spm, with the stabilizer—at 600 spm!
    Tatami is one of the most popular fills. Up to 80% of the designs contain objects filled with it.
    In order to understand how Tatami behaves on terry cloth, we’ve used a simple design with the high-density fill (“Mushrooms”) and a design with the low-density fill (“Flower”). Both designs were embroidered twice, with and without water-soluble stabilizer.
    We’ve got the following results.
    The embroidery of the designs that contain Tatami fill without topping leads to trouble. 
    When stitching the design with high-density fill (“Mushrooms”) without the water-soluble stabilizer, the thread twisted and snapped. Terry cloth showed through.

    When doing this design with the topping, the result was a way better. Though in some places terry cloth is still visible through the fill, you may avoid it by adding an underlay.
    When embroidering a design with a low-density fill (“Flower”) without the stabilizer, terry cloth showed through the fill, and the thread did not twist but snapped at once. That most often happened on very small stitches.

    When embroidering the same design with the water-soluble topping, terry cloth didn’t show through (almost), but in some places, where the fill was the least dense, one could see the color of the main fabric.
    Choosing a design with the Tatami fill, pay attention to whether it has an underlay: it further strengthens the fabric and prevents the terry cloth from showing through during wear. The design we’ve chosen for our test piece didn’t have an underlay and was rather dense. 

    Perfect for terry cloth! The fabric covers the pile that adds some volume to the embroidery.
    We recommend using a water-soluble stabilizer on top—though without it the thread didn’t break, the loops showed through the satin column.

    Cross-stitch looked wonderful on a terry towel embroidered with the help of water-soluble stabilizer. One may turn a blind eye to the slight distortion of the stitches after the removal of the stabilizer if one wants a towel embroidered in this technique.

    We advise against the embroidery without the water-soluble stabilizer because the result is the same as with other embroidery techniques: thread breakage and stitches shifting.
    Of course, the sky is the limit for a really imaginative embroiderer, but the designs rendered in this technique are not good for terry cloth, especially for a dense high-piled one.
    If you're going to do cutwork, use the techniques above. You’ll find the guidelines in the section where we discussed satin columns. When choosing a design, pay attention to the width of the satin column. Do not use designs with columns less than 3 mm wide that are trimmed on the side.
    Taking care of an embroidered item
    If you want your embroidered item to serve you for many years (OK, months at least), you’ll need to learn how to take care of it. Having finished the embroidery, remove the traces of topping and backing. Gently iron the item in the embroidered area.
    An important note: it’s better not to use hot pressing and steaming with terry cloth. The loops are flattened, the general appearance of the garment suffers, making it look untidy.

    You may circumvent this issue by keeping an iron suspended above the fabric and using the steam boost option. Or, you may use a soft underlay—for example, a blanket, or an old terry towel.
    Items made of terry cloth are highly washable, therefore, if you’ve chosen right threads, no chemicals or high temperatures will do your item any damage. 
    Machine maintenance
    If you embroider on terry cloth often, especially without any backing, the lint, which is always present, may clutter the shuttle. It is, perhaps, the only problem your embroidery machine may encounter during the embroidery on terry cloth. Keep your shuttle clean and everything will be fine!

    Happy embroidery!
    Original text by Irina Lisitsa, Maria Stratan, Lisa Prass

    Sewing in the hoop: a decorative element

    Author: Seva Brother
    Embroidering a decoration is not difficult. Our website offers numerous masterclasses and step-by-step guides into embroidery on knitwear, cotton, wool, and velvet, choosing the right kind of stabilizers and threads. This masterclass was done on the Brother machine.

    Besides beautiful brightly colored photos, it offers some insights into making a ready-to-use item that could afterward serve as an appliqué. The machine was running in the embroidery mode.
    Sewing in the hoop: a decorative element
    There are no clear recommendations on the subject. Use any cotton fabric as your base. In this masterclass, I didn't use any stabilizers, but you can strengthen the fabric with a thin adhesive one if you are not sure of the result. This will add some density and will make turning the item inside out and forming fine sharp angles more difficult. You can use any kinds of embroidery threads (polyester or rayon).
    Depending on the fabric and the design color scheme, use black or white bobbin thread.
    Sewing in the hoop: a decorative element
    Hoop the fabric with its right side up. Open the design on your machine, choose the color scheme and embroider. Owners of Brother embroidery machines that have this nifty Color Shuffling option, may use it to create a color palette according to one of the available charts. Others will have to rely on their artistic flair.
     



    Sewing in the hoop: a decorative element
    Choose a 02-001 frame from the ones your embroidery machine offers. Change its size to fit your design and your preferences. In any case, see that it is not smaller than your design and bigger than the hoop you intend to use.

    Cut a square out of a different fabric. The square should be larger than your frame. Place it on top of the design, with its wrong side up, as shown in the picture. Using an adhesive tape, stick it to the hooped area, to prevent it from slipping away during the embroidery.
    Embroider the frame.

    Unhoop. Trim the extra material, as shown in the picture. Please mark the way in which the fabric at the corners was trimmed! Cut small slits in the center on the side that doesn’t have the embroidery. Turn your item the right side out.


    Please note that the size of the resulting embroidery will be defined by the size of the chosen frame!

    Now let’s think where you can use this decorative element.
  • Free machine embroidery designs

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  • Embroidery Blog Entries

    • By expressdigitising in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         1
      As with any industry, there can be a wide range of skill levels and common mistakes that can be found. The world of embroidery digitizing is no different. Here are 18 mistakes that you’ll want to avoid to become a world-class embroidery digitizer.
      Following the wrong stitch direction
      This is one of the biggest mistakes an embroidery digitizer can make as it has such a big impact on the overall quality. Going in the wrong direction is likely to negatively affect the stitch angle and the overall look of the final product. Careful consideration is needed to avoid such a mistake.
      Not using the right style
      Many parts of embroidery digitizing
      Not using underlay
      Using the right underlay is vital to embroidery digitizing and using none at all could cause a potential disaster. This can distort the design, especially when using multiple fabric types. Take time to consider the right underlay for you otherwise you could make your life very difficult.
      Exceeding the stitch limit
      As an digitizer, it’s important to work within the limits to ensure the high quality of the work. Trying to get your machine to do more than it’s capable of will lead to poor results. It’s important to remember your stitch limits and stick with it. Your client might have budgeted on a certain stitchcount so if you present them with a design that is double of what they expected means their costing will be way out and hence eat into their profits.
      No forward planning
      Planning is vital to all areas of design and embroidery digitizing is no different. Without it, you could end up making mistakes and end up with a poor design. A detailed planning session is required before you get started. A great embroidery digitizer will be meticulous about their work.
      Not considering the digitizing aspects
      A failure to consider digitizing aspects can be seen all around us. This often happens when push and pull compensation takes place. This will be caused by a flat frame being different from the curved substrate. Not acknowledging the difference can be a big mistake.
      Lack of pathing
      Setting the correct path is vital for digitizing. It’s important to position yourself correctly to match your design to what you see on the screen. This will prevent the machine from jumping and causing too many trims in the final product.
      Overlooking the bobbin
      The thread tension needs to be checked whenever you change the bobbin. It’s a part of embroidery digitizing that needs to become a habit. Once it is, it will allow you to complete the work to a higher standard and more efficiently. Falling into bad habits can seriously affect the work of an embroidery digitizer.
      Not knowing the minimum height of text for different fabrics
      When it comes to text, mistakes are blatantly obvious in the world of embroidery digitizing. If you go too small then it can lead to writing that is impossible to read or no spacing. This is avoided by knowing that the minimum text height is for each fabric that you use.
      Not sewing from the center5>
      This is going to be vital when working with hats. It’s important to know the requirements of each material and product you are working with. This is vital to get the right amount of push in each direction for a great finish.
      Using the wrong design application
      You can always fall into bad habits with custom embroidery digitizing and using the wrong design application is one of the biggest mistakes you can make. It will make your life a lot harder and cause a lot more issues along the way. Make time to know exactly what applications suit your different tasks.
      Poor compensation
      It’s always important to know how to perfectly fit your design. Using the wrong dimensions could mean ending up with a poor quality product. You will also have issues such as the underlay sticking out or having a poor fit in general.
      Incorrect density
      Using the wrong density can destroy a design. It could end up with you having a product that is either too thin or too thick. Both can be big issues that can affect the quality of the finished product. Having the wrong density can be a huge mistake.
      The wrong stitch width
      Using the wrong stitch width can leave you with a finished product that looks unprofessional with looping stitches and excess trims. There can also be a difference in the density of the stitching to cause further issues to leave you with a very poor finished product.
      The wrong stitch length
      Using the wrong stitch lengths can have a huge impact on the overall quality of the design. It can cause underlay to stick out and other key problems, especially with lettering. The problem is also made worse with small lettering and using the right stitch length is vital to get a professional finish.
      Using the wrong fill type
      Embroidery digitizers need to know how to use the right fill type and many can get it wrong. To avoid this mistake you need to have a clear understanding of what type of fills are going to be available. Once you know this, you’ll be able to choose the right fill every time without making any mistakes.
      Not locking the stitches
      Lock stitching isn’t always required and it can lead some to become lazy and try and leave it out in the places where it should be used. This is especially important on thicker materials and it’s important to use it when required.
      Lack of creativity by not using the correct stitch type
      Being a great embroidery digitizer involves using your creativity to come up with the best possible design. Issues can be caused, however, if you are not using the correct stitch type as this will have a big impact on how creative you can be.


       
    • By Mario Tovar in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         0
      Printing of labels requires that materials be of the right label and the one that suits the customers and specification. The materials need to have long-lasting and quality prints, with amazing number of colors you need and with the right layout or barcodes. There are numerous number of ways in which labels can be produced, some of which require great equipment although others are just easy, reliable and very convenient to use. These methods or technologies include;
      DIRECT TO GARMENT PRINTER.
      It involves printing on textiles using a certain amazing technology of using ink jet. The DTG printers hold the clothes at a constant position, the specialized ink jets smear the ink on the garment using the print heads, and they directly absorbed by the fibers in the garment.
      It generally used in printing of T-shirts, canvases, bags among others. The most attractive features about the direct to garment printer is its incredible features which include high quality printing which actually requires low cost per print, its vast24 by 16 printing area and eventually its removable platen system. These features ensure that this printer stands out from the others and hence preferred by most people.
      DIRECT GARMENT INK.
      It offers an exclusive simplicity of the fixation process and an eco-friendly way of printing on natural fibers. These inks are largely suited to fabric materials and they are mostly used in printing of garments.DTG Ink is made in such a way that it can highly improve performance on fabrics and its associated blends. These inks can bring about fantastic results especially due to their color strength. This in turn will bring about excellent results of the DTG printer.
      Before the process of printing begins, the garments should coat with a pre-treatment liquid with the sole purpose of enhancing color reproduction so that the color can appear on top of the fabric.
      KEY FEATURES OF DTG INK.
      The color strength is high. The jet ability is reliable and accurate. Clog free print heads. Great print head performance. One of the key things to note is that DTG Ink is not applicable on all types of fabrics. It mostly recommended on cotton, polyester, poly-cotton, cotton blends, jute and viscose. GAMUT PLUS INK.
      These are designed to bring about exclusive results on polyester and cotton fabrics. They work in a way that ensures that the brightness after washing are retained which result in less waste and also helps you in retaining your customers. One interesting feature about the gamut plus ink is that it ensures optimal production. This is brought about by the fact that the gamut plus ink is made to’’ set’’ faster meaning that there is no need to wait for the white ink to set before printing since one can easily take advantage of the pass modes which are on the printer.
      ADVANTAGES.
      It is more reliable since ink flows better in the printer. It uses an advanced technology. It is very compatible since it can be used on any direct to garment using Epson(R)DX5, DX7 printer heads. REATREAT MACHINE FOR DTG PRINTERS.
      It allows for faster cleanup, which means that the quality of the prints will be highly improved, and hence production increases.
    • By LPT in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         2
      Hi all!  Hoping for help. I’m doing a cap. Six letters offset to the left side on the cap. The beginning of the word is 1/8” lower than the last letter. It’s sewing uphill. How do I get the last letter flush with the first?


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