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Beautiful design, Morning owl look amazing.

This embroidery work up perfectly and stitch out nicely. 
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Excellent stitches and original style

Stitched out beautifully! Looked amazing and no issues!
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Loving birds.. Wonderful designs, stitched out beautifully

Really cute, You love this when you stitched it. Would love more of same designs.
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Our designs looks great

Stitched out beautifully! Wonderful decoration!
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Adorable design. Stitches out beautifully.

"Thanks so much for this design It's lovely and stitched out beautifully on leather."
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  • Make your own bias binding

    Make your own bias binding
    When sewing a garment, every little detail counts. However, it often happens that the most important one is missing. What if you need a bias binding, and the nearby craft shop has all the wrong colors? In that case, you can create your own bias binding. Read this article to learn how to make the binding of the right size, what tools to use and how to sew bias binding on the garment.
    Bias binding. Tools
    There are all kinds of tools for making bias binding that come in a variety of shapes; you can buy it in a specialty store. The number on a tool shows the width of bias binding with the folded edges. The double binding is two times narrower after being sewn on the edge of the garment.

    Bias binding. Tool size
    6 mm—for the “textile mosaic” technique, which is used for decoration of dresses, shirts and so on.
    12 mm—narrow bias binding, the width on a garment only 0.6 cm. It is cut from lightweight fabrics. Neck holes and armholes of the dresses/tunics, seams of the “high-class” garments, buttonholes on trousers and skirts.

    18 mm—a good edge finishing for the garments or homemade textiles. It is, perhaps, the most common size, for you see it in the stores most often. This kind of binding is 0.9 cm wide when sewn.
    25 mm—mostly for home textiles, table linen, kid’s clothes, such as bibs, pinafores, etc.
    50 mm—almost a cording. It is used in the same way as 25 mm binding.


    The template should be exactly two times wider than the ready binding.
    For example, If you want 12 mm binding, you should cut a 12*2 = 24 mm tape.
    Align your fabric with the weft thread and the crosswise grain of the fabric (the one that runs along the selvage). Trim the selvage. Use a triangle ruler or a quilting ruler or fold the fabric at a 45° angle.



    Bias binding. Sewing the strips into one continuous tape
    Set the quilting foot with a blade on your machine, and select the straight stitch with the needle in a center position.


    Place the ends of the strips one over another with a 7 mm overlap, right sides together. The overlap is there for the stitching line that will join the strips. Stitch back and forth a few times at the beginning and the end.



    After sewing, press the seams open and flat. Trim the “dog ears”.


    Bias binding. Shaping
    Cut your binding on the bias; it will be easier to insert it into the bias binding maker this way. Feed the strip into the wide end of the maker and pull it out of the narrow one. You may poke it with a needle if the fabric is of a heavier kind.


    The strip of fabric will come out with folded edges. All you’ll need is to press them with an iron.


    Bias binding. Sewing
    The methods of attaching bias binding to the garment are aplenty. There are feet designed specifically for the purpose, which can be used in a variety of ways. We described one of them in our previous articles:
     Original text by Irina Lisitsa
     

    How to increase the size of a design and adjust the stitch count in My Editor?

    How open file you can read here 
    For example, used he design of Fashion teddy bear design from our embroidery library. The format is chosen arbitrarily.
    Open the design you want to resize. Click on Upscale design. 

    Increase the size of your design either by percent or by a certain number of cm. (I added 10%). Press OK.

    As you can see in the lower left corner of the window, your design is now bigger than it was, but the number of stitches remains the same. This means that the embroidery may look a bit bald when finished. And we don’t know that, do we?

    Press Ctrl + A to select the entire design. Ultimately, left-click on any part of the background and drag to enclose the entire design. You’ll see a rectangular frame around it.

    Now, go to Stitches > Auto Density > Apply.

    My Editor has automatically added the stitches in the required places. You can see that your stitch count went up. 

    All that is left is to store your design where you want it on your computer.

    DIY anime style embroidered backpack

    DIY anime style backpack
    Pause for a moment and consider: how many pairs of jeans are there in your wardrobe and how many of those you haven’t put on for ages? A pair of jeans that is not fashionable anymore or the one you're bored with can be given a new life with just a trifle of effort. Uncover your sewing and embroidery machine! Let’s create an anime style backpack for you or one of your friends. Read this tutorial to learn how. Are you with us?
    DIY anime style backpack. Materials
    A pair of jeans Lining fabric Zipper Bias binding (4 cm wide) Padding fabric Machine embroidery design Sewing and embroidery machine Machine embroidery threads DIY anime style backpack. Embroidery
    For this tutorial, I used a design already embroidered on a piece of white cotton fabric. You may do the embroidery right on the fabric you’ve chosen for your backpack if you want.

    The embroidery itself is easy. Attach a piece of tearaway adhesive stabilizer of appropriate weight to the wrong side of your fabric and hoop the whole thing.
    Load the design into the embroidery machine and attach the hoop. Hit the start button and do the embroidery, changing colors in accordance with the color chart that comes with your design.



    DIY anime style backpack. Sewing
    Out of the legs of your jeans, cut two rectangular pieces. You can make them any size you like; I used a pair of sneakers and a zipper as a reference. The resulting panels measured 40 x 30 cm.
    Place a zipper between the two denim pieces and join them with straight lines of stitches. Use a standard zipper foot.


    Now the front panel is ready. Check the measurements by placing your item of reference (sports shoes in my case) on top of it. Round the edges using a French curve or a soup bowl of a suitable diameter. Cut the identical panel for the back side of the backpack.


    Now you can cut the panels out of the padding and the lining fabrics. Place the back panel on top of the padding piece and draw the stitching pattern (diagonal squares in our case).



    Attach the walking foot and stitch along the traced lines.


    DIY anime style backpack. Appliqué
    Out of the embroidered piece, cut the design, leaving 2 cm allowance along the perimeter. 
    Secure it of one of the two halves of the front panel. You can pin it or use a glue pencil or temporary spray adhesive. 


    Choose the threads to match the color of your fabric. I picked the ones I used while embroidering the design: cyan for the hair, mauve for the skirt, etc. Straight stitch along the perimeter (stitch length 2, the needle in the center position). Trim the extra material close to the stitching line.


    Secure the embroidered panel with a zigzag stitch (the needle in the center position). Many computerized sewing machines with a speed regulator have an option of smooth zigzag width adjustment. Use the manual that comes with your equipment to learn what it’s capable of.  



    Stitch the lining to the front panel along the zipper tape; after that, secure the lining along the edges. Sew the lining to the back panel close to the edge. 


    Cut the denim leftovers to strips 7 cm wide for the side panels. Stitch together the short sides of the strips to make one long piece. Place this piece on top of the padding fabric and join it with the piece of lining. Join them with parallel straight lines of stitches. 


    Trim the projecting edges of the padding and the lining fabrics. Fold the long side piece in two and find its center. Join the center of the long piece to the top of the backpack and baste the panels, leaving allowance on the right side. Having reached the center on the bottom side, mark the crossline and cut the extra material, leaving 1 cm for seam allowance. Sew the piece in the center and baste it to another panel of the backpack. Prepare a rectangular piece of fabric for the strap. Baste the hanger to the back side.  



    Straight stitch through all layers. Trim the edges and finish them with the bias binding. Read about different ways of attaching the binding here: 


    Original text by Irina Lisitsa
    Visit our store for oriental embroidery designs

    Border alignment without hooping

    Original text by: Marina Belova 
    The ideas for machine embroidery and the methods for bringing them into life are everywhere around, the only thing you have to do is adopt them. Some time ago I was puzzled by a curious way of border alignment, but then I grasped what it was about: 
    Judging from the images shown, it turns out that this method does not require printing a template on paper, nor doing any measurements. 
    The supposed steps for doing the alignment, as I understand, are the following: 
    1. Hoop only a water soluble or a cutaway or a tearaway stabilizer if the look of the wrong side is not so important. 
    2. Before embroidering the design itself you first embroider a rectangular — a guide stitch for future alignment that must outline the embroidery accurately. This should be not a simple rectangle, but with the center marks, as on the picture below (marked with the red dotted line):

    3. Apparently, these marks help to position the next part of the embroidery properly. The rectangle is embroidered with the dark-colored thread so as to be visible through the fabric. 
    4. The fabric is stuck onto the stabilizer. You can do it in a number of ways including spraying it with temporary spray adhesive or using pins. 
    5. Embroider the design itself. 
    6. Then unhoop the stabilizer, but don't touch the wrong side just yet. 
    7. Hoop a new piece of a stabilizer. 
    8. Embroider the new rectangle. 
    9. Stick or pin the fabric onto the stabilizer. The main reference point is whether the sides of the outlined rectangle match. 
    10. Embroider the design. 
    11. And so on, until you won't embroider all that is needed. 
    12. In the end you remove all the excessive stitches and the stabilizer from the wrong side. 
    You should get something like this:

    Everything is rather simple, as usual. But in my opinion, this method is not commonplace. In general, it somewhat reminds the standard way of border alignment with the help of alignment crosses or lines, which I have already described, but looks much easier and requires only one thing: to neatly align the pieces against each other. And because the fabric is not hooped but placed on top instead, you do it more easily. 
  • Free machine embroidery designs

  • Topics

  • Embroidery Blog Entries

    • By Hunter11 in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         0
      When looking for an embroidery machine you’ll likely be overwhelmed by long lists of machine parts listed as features. That’s a standard marketing gimmick that most businesses employ – mentioning all the basic components of a product as if they are something special in order to fool people into buying it. And if you’re not familiar with the subject, you can understandably be confused by it.
      So, to help you out, here’s a quick list of the main components you can expect to see in a standard, good embroidery machine. Having these components is pretty much a must for a good item so it’s best to get to know them and what they do. 
      The main embroidery machine components
      Embroidery machines have several key parts that you’ll always need to look for:
      Needle bar
      The needle bar is where the needles of an embroidery machine are contained. The needle bar is also what’s moving them up and down to create the stitching. 
      Embroidery arm and head
      The arm and the head of an embroidery machine are the two components that work in tandem to create the stitches. The arm moves the hooped fabric around while the head is where the needles, the needle bar, and the thread are contained. 
      Cap frame
      This is simply a stabilizing frame that’s used specifically for caps and hats. 
      Frame sash
      The frame sash is also called a “pantograph”. It’s what holds the frame connected to the embroidery arm and that’s actually doing all the movements. The frame sash, the embroidery arm, and the hoop, all move together, as a single unit as the embroidery machine works. 
      Embroidery hoop and frame
      All embroidery machines have either a hoop or a frame. This is what keeps the fabric in place during the stitching. The hoop or the frame is mounted on top of the embroidery arm and they move under the needle during the stitching. 
      Standard sewing machine parts
      As most embroidery machines double as standard sewing machines as well, it’s a good idea to be aware of the basic sewing machine components as well. We won’t go into detail for them here but these are the basic parts of any decent sewing machines you should expect to see. Don’t fall for it if you see them being listed as a “special feature” but also make sure to note it if they are missing or they’re offered as paid add-ons. 

      •    Spool pin
      •    Bobbin binder spindle
      •    Bobbin winder stopper
      •    Stitch width dial
      •    Pattern selector dial
      •    Hand wheel
      •    Stitch length dial
      •    Reverse stitch lever
      •    Power stitch
      •    Bobbin winder thread guide
      •    Thread tension dial
      •    Thread take-up lever
      •    Needle clamp screw
      •    Presser foot
      •    Bobbin cover
      •    Bobbin cover release button
      •    Feed dog
      •    Needle
      •    Needle plate
      Embroidery machine settings and electronic controls
      Lastly, let’s talk about the basic settings and control features you can expect to see in a modern electronic embroidery machine. A lot of people still value the act of hand embroidery but there’s no denying that electronic embroidery machines are currently the most effective and efficient tool for embroidery out there.
      LCD and stitch selection displays
      Most modern embroidery machine models have large and easy-to-use LCD displays. Usually, with touchscreens, these displays act to both showcase the features of the embroidery machine, as well as to help you control them. Things such as pattern information, stitch selection, previews of the chosen embroidery pattern, the ability to edit the pattern as you’re working, and so on, are all vital control tools that any good LCD display should enable. 
      Thread break detector and indicator
      For a smooth and efficient embroidery process, avoiding thread breaks, as well as noticing them and addressing them as quickly as possible, is a must. The thread break detector helps with that by always looking for thread breaks and halting the process as soon as one is detected. The thread break indicator works together with it by altering the user immediately on the LCD display – the thread break indicator should show where exactly the thread break has occurred so that you can repair it quickly and easily. 
      Reader/writer box
      The reader/writer box is a vital accessory for anyone who wants to work with stitch designs or patterns on their computer. This feature works by recording the digital data from the computer on a memory card. From there, you can easily transfer the information onto the embroidery machine and use it on your future embroidery works. 
      Memory card
      The memory card should go without explanation as most people nowadays should know what it is. It’s important to note that you look for embroidery machines that do have a memory card functionality, however, as there are still models that don’t have it. Being able to use a memory card on your embroidery machine is crucial as it will allow you to transfer additional embroidery patterns from your computer and using them with your embroidery machine. Without a memory card, you’ll be stuck with just the several dozen or several hundred basic embroidery patterns that have been encoded into your machine’s software. 
      Final thoughts
      When you get to know them, embroidery machines are fairly simple devices, especially if you were already aware of how a standard sewing machine works or if you knew how to embroider by hand. Nevertheless, especially if you’re still new to embroidering, getting to know the basic components and features of a good, modern embroidery machine is best done before purchasing an actual embroidery machine. Doing so will guarantee that you know what you’re buying and you’re getting the best item for your needs and preferences.
      Once you have familiarized yourself with these components and we recommend following a guide and read as many reviews as possible.  
      A great starting point is Hunting Handmade and their guide to finding the best embroidery machine, alternatively there are excellent resources right here on this forum! 
    • By Hunter11 in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         0
      A question we have been asked many a times on our blog and via our audience. However, we were keen to poll the community and find out exactly which brand you find the best, what better place to do it than here. Please vote on your best embroidery machine and we will update the results to our recent guide to share with our embroidery fanatics!
      Happy Voting!
       
       
    • By expressdigitising in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         1
      As with any industry, there can be a wide range of skill levels and common mistakes that can be found. The world of embroidery digitizing is no different. Here are 18 mistakes that you’ll want to avoid to become a world-class embroidery digitizer.
      Following the wrong stitch direction
      This is one of the biggest mistakes an embroidery digitizer can make as it has such a big impact on the overall quality. Going in the wrong direction is likely to negatively affect the stitch angle and the overall look of the final product. Careful consideration is needed to avoid such a mistake.
      Not using the right style
      Many parts of embroidery digitizing
      Not using underlay
      Using the right underlay is vital to embroidery digitizing and using none at all could cause a potential disaster. This can distort the design, especially when using multiple fabric types. Take time to consider the right underlay for you otherwise you could make your life very difficult.
      Exceeding the stitch limit
      As an digitizer, it’s important to work within the limits to ensure the high quality of the work. Trying to get your machine to do more than it’s capable of will lead to poor results. It’s important to remember your stitch limits and stick with it. Your client might have budgeted on a certain stitchcount so if you present them with a design that is double of what they expected means their costing will be way out and hence eat into their profits.
      No forward planning
      Planning is vital to all areas of design and embroidery digitizing is no different. Without it, you could end up making mistakes and end up with a poor design. A detailed planning session is required before you get started. A great embroidery digitizer will be meticulous about their work.
      Not considering the digitizing aspects
      A failure to consider digitizing aspects can be seen all around us. This often happens when push and pull compensation takes place. This will be caused by a flat frame being different from the curved substrate. Not acknowledging the difference can be a big mistake.
      Lack of pathing
      Setting the correct path is vital for digitizing. It’s important to position yourself correctly to match your design to what you see on the screen. This will prevent the machine from jumping and causing too many trims in the final product.
      Overlooking the bobbin
      The thread tension needs to be checked whenever you change the bobbin. It’s a part of embroidery digitizing that needs to become a habit. Once it is, it will allow you to complete the work to a higher standard and more efficiently. Falling into bad habits can seriously affect the work of an embroidery digitizer.
      Not knowing the minimum height of text for different fabrics
      When it comes to text, mistakes are blatantly obvious in the world of embroidery digitizing. If you go too small then it can lead to writing that is impossible to read or no spacing. This is avoided by knowing that the minimum text height is for each fabric that you use.
      Not sewing from the center5>
      This is going to be vital when working with hats. It’s important to know the requirements of each material and product you are working with. This is vital to get the right amount of push in each direction for a great finish.
      Using the wrong design application
      You can always fall into bad habits with custom embroidery digitizing and using the wrong design application is one of the biggest mistakes you can make. It will make your life a lot harder and cause a lot more issues along the way. Make time to know exactly what applications suit your different tasks.
      Poor compensation
      It’s always important to know how to perfectly fit your design. Using the wrong dimensions could mean ending up with a poor quality product. You will also have issues such as the underlay sticking out or having a poor fit in general.
      Incorrect density
      Using the wrong density can destroy a design. It could end up with you having a product that is either too thin or too thick. Both can be big issues that can affect the quality of the finished product. Having the wrong density can be a huge mistake.
      The wrong stitch width
      Using the wrong stitch width can leave you with a finished product that looks unprofessional with looping stitches and excess trims. There can also be a difference in the density of the stitching to cause further issues to leave you with a very poor finished product.
      The wrong stitch length
      Using the wrong stitch lengths can have a huge impact on the overall quality of the design. It can cause underlay to stick out and other key problems, especially with lettering. The problem is also made worse with small lettering and using the right stitch length is vital to get a professional finish.
      Using the wrong fill type
      Embroidery digitizers need to know how to use the right fill type and many can get it wrong. To avoid this mistake you need to have a clear understanding of what type of fills are going to be available. Once you know this, you’ll be able to choose the right fill every time without making any mistakes.
      Not locking the stitches
      Lock stitching isn’t always required and it can lead some to become lazy and try and leave it out in the places where it should be used. This is especially important on thicker materials and it’s important to use it when required.
      Lack of creativity by not using the correct stitch type
      Being a great embroidery digitizer involves using your creativity to come up with the best possible design. Issues can be caused, however, if you are not using the correct stitch type as this will have a big impact on how creative you can be.


       
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