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Beautiful design, Morning owl look amazing.

This embroidery work up perfectly and stitch out nicely. 
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Excellent stitches and original style

Stitched out beautifully! Looked amazing and no issues!
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Loving birds.. Wonderful designs, stitched out beautifully

Really cute, You love this when you stitched it. Would love more of same designs.
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Our designs looks great

Stitched out beautifully! Wonderful decoration!
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Adorable design. Stitches out beautifully.

"Thanks so much for this design It's lovely and stitched out beautifully on leather."
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  • Dog clothes with machine embroidery

    Winter chill is tough for our little furry friends. In order to warm your pet up in the cold weather, make a dog coat and embellish it with machine embroidery. Making dog clothes doesn't necessarily involve complex patterns and complicated technical operations. In this masterclass, I’ll show you how to do create a pattern for a dog cape in any size that can be sewn and embroidered within an hour.
    Necessary materials:

    1. 3/4 m of fabric for the outer layer of the item, such as denim or cotton
    2. 3/4 of fleece for the inner lining
    3. Medium-weight cutaway stabilizer
    4. Temporary spray adhesive
    5. Measuring tape
    6. Dressmaker’s pencil
    7. A big sheet of Whatman paper
    8. A round jar lid, 12 cm in diameter
    This is the machine embroidery design I used: Bad to the Bone - Lg  or A Fur-rociously Fun Design Pack - Lg
    Dog clothes Creating a pattern
    The size of the pattern depends on the size of your dog.

    Pick up a measuring tape and measure the following parameters: neck circumference (where the collar usually is), chest circumference (at its widest), the length of the dog from the back of the neck to the tail. Write them down; on these parameters, you’ll build your future pattern.
    I have used the following measurements (see the chart): А = 58 cm, В = 81 cm, С = 61 cm.
    To create a pattern, grab a big sheet of paper. Divide the measurement B by 2 and add 2.5 cm for seam allowance. Write down the result on the piece of paper; this will be the width measurement for your main part. Then, add 2.5 cm for seam allowance to the measurement C. This will be the height of the main section.
    Using these measurements, draw a rectangle on a piece of paper. Leave about 25 cm on the top edge of the pattern and 10 cm on each side. Now prepare the pattern for the dog’s neck. Add 10 cm to the measurement A and divide the result by 3. Then, draw a line the length of that measurement and make a mark. Mark the center of the line by measuring and dividing its length by 2. Draw a line of the same length perpendicular to the first one. After that, draw two perpendicular 4 cm lines out from the ends of the second line. Draw straight lines connecting the ends.

    Next, on the top edge of the main pattern section, mark in equal distances on each side, leaving about 8 cm in the center. After that, draw the neck straps that will fasten the cap on the dog.

    In order to do this, draw the slant line at 45 degree angle on the top part of the pattern, then draw a line (at the same angle) from the top corner pointing outside of the main pattern. See the red outline in the photo. Round off the corners on the pattern and the ends of the neck straps.

    In the inner corners, draw the curves about 2.5 cm long and connect them with a bent line, from top to bottom.

    Cut out the pattern. Now you need to cut out the details of the dog cape. Place a pattern onto the fabric and outline it with a pencil. Cut out the detail.

    Make a mark slightly above the center line. Draw first a horizontal, and then a vertical line through the center. These marks will be used for the design placement. Print the design template from the software program. Poke a hole in the center and align the paper template with the center mark on the fabric. Make sure that the design fits well within the pattern. When choosing the design, keep in mind that after the embroidery there should be at least 12 cm (top, right and on left) between the edges of the design and the edges of the fabric.
    Spray a piece of cutaway stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive and place the fabric on top of it in the embroidery area. Hoop it in accordance with the center marks. Embroider your design. On completion, trim the excess stabilizer.

    Dog clothes Assembling of the pieces:
    Prepare the template for chest straps that will fasten the cape on the dog. Divide the measurement B by 2 and add 5 cm for the strap ends overlap. Draw a rectangle on the piece of paper using this measurement for the length, and 8 cm for the width. Round off one of the ends on each corner. Cut out the pattern.

     
    Cut two chest straps pieces out of the main fabric and another two out of the fleece (your inner lining fabric) by pinning the pattern to the fabric and cutting out the shapes. Align the outer layer pieces with the fleece pieces, right sides together. Sew the details together with a straight stitch at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge. Leave the straight end open for turning.

    Cut small slits in the fabric around the curved edge. Be careful to not cut any of the stitches. Turn the details the right side out and press them with an iron. Finish it with a decorative line of stitches around the sides and curved end.

    Cut a 6 cm length of Velcro. Attach the loop side to the end of one of the straps on the inner lining side. Stitch it near the edge to hold it in place. Lay the embroidered outer layer on top of the fleece, right sides together. Cut out the shape out of the fleece. Measure and mark the center sides of the backside of the outer layer where the straps will be. Insert the chest straps between the outer layer and inner lining fabric, align them with the center marks and pin the details together. Position the straps so that they are parallel with the bottom edge of the coat. Stitch the details around the entire shape. Leave about 5 cm of the bottom edge 

    Turn the coat right side out and turn in the seam allowance where there is an opening. Finish the edge with a decorative stitch. Stitch back and forth over the ends of the straps to reinforce them.
    Cut another 6 cm length of Velcro. Stitch the Velcro pieces to the edges of the neck straps patterns that will fasten the cape around the dog’s neck.

    Now everything is ready for the warm and comfortable walk with your pet.

    How to embroider hearts on socks

    Today we want to offer you a somewhat uncommon and not too well-known design: hearts on socks. You can make socks like that for yourself as well as for your kid. You can even embroider several pairs with this one free machine embroidery design: a small heart. For that, you’ll need to alter the design a little – for example, change the color or rearrange the hearts pattern.
    Before we begin, I’d like to point out that some embroidery machines (ELNA 9900, TAJIMA, HAPPY RICH, BARUDAN) are equipped with a special device for embroidery on socks and mittens. It makes the embroidery process much simpler. For some, this device is a real treasure.
    But most often even the advanced embroiderers don't own it. For that reason, I’m going to tell you how to do without such a gadget and successfully embroider a free machine embroidery design – a heart – on socks.
    The best and easiest way is to embroider on the elastic part. Hoop the medium weight cutaway stabilizer. Pin the sock on top of it in such a way that the resulting embroidery will be on its right, and not the wrong, side. Embroider the design. During the embroidery, you should keep an eye on the rest of the sock so that it doesn’t get stitched. After that, trim the extra stabilizer.
    Not as difficult as it seemed, right?
    For those who own the aforementioned gadget but don't know how to mount and use it, here’s a guideline. It is clear and simple – you will get the gist of it in a couple of minutes.
    How to attach a device for the embroidery on socks and mittens to the machine?
    First of all, make sure that the machine is switched off. You need to do this in order to follow all the safety and work instructions so that you don't get hurt.
    After that, unscrew the horizontal bar of the frame holder and remove it from the machine.
    Then place the sock frame holder to the slots in the carriage and screw it with two screws.
    The set consists of two embroidery frames (marked with a letter and a number, for example, S1 and S2) and two supporting accessories for them.
    Place the cutaway stabilizer on top of the base of the sock frame.
    On the right side of the sock, mark the center-lines in order to place the design right.
    Put the sock onto the supporting accessory in such a way that the center-lines you've drawn align with the lines on the device. Smooth out the stabilizer while you’re doing that. Insert the upper part of the frame into a sock.
    Check the stabilizer position. It should be placed between the two parts of the sock exactly in the middle.
    In order to remove the supporting accessory, pull the sock frame upwards.
    Now turn in the lower part of the sock so that it doesn't get in the way.
    Check the alignment of the center-lines.
    How to embroider on socks with the help of the special attachment and frame?
    First of all, remember that such a frame should not be set up before switching the machine on. Otherwise, it may have a negative effect on its work.
    Choose a proper hoop size and a design, previously loaded into the machine. Press OK and embroider.
    On completion, unhoop the sock and trim the extra stabilizer.
    - To embroider another sock (the right one differs from the left, as you know), turn it the other way round and embroider on the other side.
    The embroidery is ready.

    Needle types for sewing and embroidery machines

    The correct choice of needle type depends on the type of work you want to do and kind of fabric you use.
    Fabric type and needle diameter
    The number in the name of a needle denotes its thickness (diameter) in hundredths of a millimeter or an inch. The greater the number, the thicker is the needle. Some manufacturers may specify two numbers for one needle, e.g. 100/16 and 120/19. This means that the needle size is given both in mm and in inches.
    An 75/11 needle is 0.77 mm in diameter
    An 80/12 needle is 0.82 mm in diameter
    An 90/14 needle is 0.92 mm in diameter
    An 100/16 needle is 1.02 mm in diameter
    Fabric type and needle number:
    highly stretchable knitwear, cloth with added lycra and other elastic materials – 65-90 size needles;
    lightweight fabrics for shirts, blouses – 60-70 size needles;
    thin fabrics (batiste, chiffon, crepe-de-Chine, etc.) – 80–90 size needles;
    cloth, coarse calico, fabric made out of synthetic fibers or cut fibers, for costumes – 80–90 size needles;
    lightweight woolen fabrics and heavyweight synthetic wool, denim – 100 size needle;
    heavyweight woolen fabrics – 110 size needle;
    coarse cloth, beaver fabric, burlap – 120 size needle;
    heavyweight and extremely heavyweight materials (leather, tarpaulin, etc.), for which the needles should be selected individually. Needle number may vary from 100 to 200, depending on the fabric thickness.
    Needles may be marked not only with numeric characters but also with letters that denote their application areas, i.e. fabric types and embroidery techniques.

    Types of needle points for sewing and embroidery How to read and understand needle markings
    H — universal needles. The needlepoint is slightly rounded; these needles are intended for non-tricky materials, such as linen, coarse calico, cotton, etc.
    H-J (jeans) — needles for dense fabrics. Being sharper, they will come handy when sewing thick materials such as denim, twill, tarpaulin, etc.
    H-M (Microtex) — thinner and sharper Microtex needles. They are used for piercing microfiber, thin and tightly woven materials, rain slicker fabrics, coated or not, silk, taffeta, etc.
    H-S (stretch) — needles for stretchable fabrics. These have a special edge that almost excludes the possibility of skipping stitches while stretching the seam. A round point pushes the yarns apart without damaging them. These needles are used for sewing medium weight knitwear and synthetic elastic fabrics.
    H-E (embroidery) — embroidery needles. These have a small eye and a slightly rounded point. Besides, these needles have a special scarf that, along with other elements of a needle anatomy, helps to prevent damage to the fabric or threads. They are intended for decorative embroidery, for which special embroidery threads are used.
    H-ЕM – needles for sewing and embroidery with metallic threads. They have a big polished eye and a groove to prevent metallic threads from splitting. Numbers 80 and 90. No 80 needles for thin fabrics. No 90 needles for denser, heavyweight fabrics.
    H-Q (quilting) — quilting needles. They are tapered, with a smaller eye and round point in order to prevent skipped stitches and holes on the fabric. These needles are commonly used for decorative stitching.
    H-SUK (jersey) — round point needles. They easily separate the yarns and go between them, thus avoiding damage the fabric. They are ideal for thick knitwear, jersey and knits.
    H-LR, H-LL (leather) — needles with a cutting point for leather items. They penetrate fabric at an angle of 45° towards the seam. As a result, you get a decorative seam with slightly inclined stitches.
    H-O – wing needles. They are intended for decorative seam stitching and hemming with

    Needlepoint types decorative stitches. Needles of this type have wings of varying width. Wings can be located on one or both sides of the needlepoint. Using them in places where a needle penetrates the fabric several times will enhance the decorative effect.
    H-ZWI – a twin needle. It is two needles bound together with a holder. It is intended for decorative stitching and pin tucks. Also hemming the edges of knitwear items (there will be a zigzag on the wrong side). These needles come in three sizes (70, 80, 90) and three types (H, J, E) only. The distance between the needles in mm (1.6, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 6.0) is indicated on the package. The higher the number, the greater the distance. 4.0 and 6.0 needles can be used only for stitching straight lines.
    H-DRI – a triple needle. Only comes in two sizes (2.5, 3.0). This needle works in a way similar to H-ZWI. One should use stitches specially designed for such needles. If one chooses a wrong stitch, a needle may break and damage the machine or traumatize the embroiderer.
    Topstitch – special needles for decorative stitching. They have a large eye and a large groove for a decorative thread (in order to be visible on the fabric, it must be thicker than a standard one) to easily pass through. If you need to stitch a line with loosely spun threads, this is the best needle for that. Sizes 80 to 100. For lightweight, middleweight and heavyweight fabrics.
    Needle shank may be color-marked.
    blue color denotes a needle for denim;
    purple – a Microtex needle;
    yellow – a needle for knitwear;
    red – an embroidery needle.
    Needle types and purposes Needle type Needle design Purpose Needle # Universal130/705 H
    Normal point, slightly rounded For almost all types of textiles, fabrics, and knits 60-100 Jersey/elastic
    130/705 H-S
    130/705 H-SES
    130/705 H-SUK Ballpoint Jersey, knits and elastic fabrics 70-90 Leather
    130/705 H-LL
    130/705 H-LR Cut point All kinds of leather, faux leather, plastic, film, oilcloth 90-100 Denim
    130/705 H-J Very slim point Densely woven materials (denim, sailcloth, work clothing) 80-110 Microtex
    130/705 H-M Very slim point Microfiber fabrics, silk 60-90 Quilting
    130/705 H-Q Slim point Stitching, quilting 75-90 Embroidery
    130/705 H-E Big eye, ballpoint Embroidery on all kinds of natural and synthetic fabrics 75-90 Metaphil
    130/705 H-MET Big eye Sewing with metallic threads 75-90 Cordonnet
    130/705 H-N Small ballpoint, long eye Stitching with thick threads 80-100 Wing
    130/705 HO A wide needle with wings Openwork, hemstitch 100-120 Twin-wing
    130/705 H-ZWI-HO   Special openwork effects 100 Twin
    130/705 H-ZWI Distance between the shanks: 1403 / 1404 QE / 1405: 1.0/1.6/2.0/2.5/3.0/4.0  1405 also: 6.0/8.0 Elastic materials hemming, edge stitching, decorative seams 70-100 Triple
    130/705 H-DRI Distance between the shanks: 3.0 Decorative work 80

    Machine embroidery consumables: what and how to use: Stabilizers

    No high-quality machine embroidery is possible without a stabilizer. Various manufacturers offer a gazillion of stabilizers for any taste and budget. Beginners sometimes feel lost in the midst of it all, now knowing which ones to purchase.
    Let’s try and figure it out.
    Stabilizers can be divided into two types: toppings and backings. Backings are intended to shoulder the load during the embroidery in order to avoid puckering, while toppings are used to prevent stitches from sinking – for example, on piled fabric or loosely-knitted items, – and also partly shoulder the load during the embroidery.
    1. Tearaway stabilizers
    These stabilizers are made of cellulose or pressurized paper. They are the ones used most often.  They are either hooped together with the fabric or separately, with fabric placed upon it and stitched to hold it in place.
    Tearaway stabilizers vary in density, measured in g/m2. There is a common belief (a wrong one) that one should pick a lower-density stabilizer for thin fabrics, and higher-density stabilizers – for thick ones. The more support a fabric needs, the denser should be the stabilizer. For example, it’s better to use an 80 g/m2 stabilizer for a capricious satin, while for the dense linen or denim fabric 40 g/m2 will be enough.
    A high-quality tearaway stabilizer should be easily removed after the embroidery; when crumpled, it becomes soft and flexible, and in water, it should split into separate fibers.
    For me, at this particular moment, the best tearaway stabilizer is an 80 g/m2 Rainbow Doklas, also a tearaway stabilizer by Vilene; the one by Gunold is not so good.
    2. Adhesive tearaway stabilizers
    They consist of a tearaway stabilizer with a sticky side. They are attached to the fabric by ironing without steam.
    These stabilizers are intended for holding in place elastic and stretchable materials so that they don’t spread out during the embroidery. Are often paired with a simple tearaway. An adhesive topping prevents the fibers from stretching, and a tearaway backing shoulders the load during the embroidery in order to avoid puckering.
    Density and quality requirements for such stabilizers are the same as for the ordinary tearaways. Vilene stabilizers have a good reputation.
    3. Water-soluble stabilizers
    These include fusible interfacing and films of varying density.
    Fusible interfacing is used:
    ⦁    for cutwork and lace;
    ⦁     for 3D embroidery;
    ⦁     where the wrong side should look neat;
    ⦁     for the embroidery on netting, etc.
    Density also varies. A high-quality stabilizer should be easily dissolved in water, leaving no traces. It is the one most often used as a backing.
    Water-soluble films can be thin (20 microns) or thick (about 80 microns).
    Thin films are used as a topping for piled fabrics (velour, velvet, fleece, terry cloth, etc.) or loosely knitted materials (jersey, knits) in order to prevent stitches from sinking.  They are easily torn away after the embroidery, and the rest can be removed by a slightly wet sponge

    Thin film is used on its own when embroidering lace.
    Vilene interfacing materials and Gunold water-soluble films have an excellent track record.
    4. Heat-away stabilizers
    Are used in a way similar to the water-soluble, with the fabrics that can be damaged by water (velvet, natural silk and so on).
    Termofilm Consists of a heat-away film. It’s operating principle is similar to the water-soluble film’s. It is placed on top of the fabric with its grainy side facing down. Iron without steam, moving in circles, will easily remove it. During this, the stabilizers leftovers are rolled into balls that can be brushed off later.

    Thermogaze A fusible material used a base fabric for creating lace or as a backing. When heated by an iron, disintegrates into tiny fibers that can be removed by a brush.

    5. Filmoplast
    This is an adhesive stabilizer, intended for embroidering of the items and fabrics, which cannot be hooped (leather, fur, small ready items).
    Filmoplast is hooped separately with a sticky side facing up. A protective layer slightly bigger than the embroidery area is peeled off, and the item or a piece of fabric is attached onto it.
    One of the disadvantages of this kind of stabilizers is that Filmoplast takes effort to remove.
    My recommended basic set of stabilizers for beginners:
    1. Tearaway stabilizer of a varying density, 2–3 m each
    2. Tearaway adhesive stabilizer, 1–2 m each
    3. Water-solubles and films, 1 m each
    Others are bought on demand, depending on the money available.
    Other machine embroidery consumables
    Puffy is a puffed up foam used to add volume to the machine embroidery designs.

    Temporary spray adhesive Necessary for temporarily gluing the fabric to a stabilizer, such as cutaway, or the appliqué material to the main fabric. 
    An adhesive should be sprayed onto a stabilizer, not the fabric, in order to avoid stains.
    Starch spray Used to stiffen thin or flowing fabrics (chiffon, batiste). A starched fabric is easier to hoop. Sometimes it allows embroidering without other stabilizers. As a result, the embroidery stays soft and flexible.
    “Clean backing” is an adhesive interfacing material, used to cover the wrong side of the embroidery out of the aesthetic reasons. It is ironed from the wrong side after the embroidery has been completed.
    I hope that this article will help the beginners to make their first steps or broaden the horizons for the more experienced embroiderers in the colorful world of machine embroidery.
    Easy stitching to you all!
     
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