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New embroidery designs

Pointe and roses .. Ballet and romantic embroidery and style.  . 
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You Love them all

Stitched out beautifully! Looked amazing and no issues!
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Girls for girls.. For young and open

Really pretty, You love this when you stitched it. Would love more of same designs
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Owls. cute and funny

Yes, all our Owls designs are stunning
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  • Making a stylish summer bag by hand


    A summer bag is a necessity for every girl. You can make a stylish summer bag out of a plain linen fabric. A simple design and a fair-colored fabric will make it fit for every occasion

    Such an accessory will look equally good in the office and on the beach. It harmonizes with a business suit and a simple tunic.
    Originally, the bag and the following masterclass were intended to showcase a  flower machine embroidery design from our collection. A fake flap immediately beneath the zipper and a pocket with a metal clasp will be used as a decoration.
    These last two elements are made of a machine embroidered fabric. Silk threads will give a beautiful glitter under the sun and in the artificial light of the lanterns.
    Materials:
     • 0.35 m of a thick cotton fabric (1.5 m wide);
     • 0.15 m of a printed fabric;
     • 0.35 m of a lining fabric (1.5 m wide);
     • 0.5 m of an interfacing fabric (1.5 m wide);
     • 1 metal clasp;
     • 1 handle with carabiner-style clasps;
     • 1 zipper with big size teeth (no less than 30 cm);
     • 0.25 m of a corded silk ribbon 1 cm wide;
     • white threads.
    Instructions
    First, you need to cut out the pieces of your future bag from the main fabric: front and back – 35 x 30 cm each; bottom part – 8 x 27 cm; pocket – 15 x 12 cm. From the printed fabric, cut out the rounded flap (27 x 12 cm) and a strip (19 x 5 cm) that will be used as a pocket decoration. Photo 3.

    Glue all the elements to the interfacing. This will make the bag thicker thus enabling it to maintain its shape. 
    Put a pattern piece on the sticky side of the interfacing fabric and iron it. Photo 4.

    Repeat with the rest of the pieces. You can leave the pocket and the decorative ribbon as they are. Photo 5.

    But the flap must be strengthened. Cut the interfacing close to the edges. Photo 6.

    On your sewing machine, sew the bottom and the sides of the bag together. Photo 7.

    You should get a template which will become the front side of your bag: Photo 8.

    Sew up the side seams. Photo 9.

    Pin and sew the side seam on the bottom of your bag. Photo 10.

    Now, let's make a pocket. Fold the upper edge twice with the right side inside and stitch it. Fold the other sides and iron them. Turn in the edges of the decorative ribbon and stitch them. Run the ribbon through the metal clasp. Put it onto the pocket. Pin it. Stitch it to the bag. Photo 11.

    Pin the pocket onto the front side. Turn in the edges of the ribbon. Stitch it to the bag. Photo 12.

    Out of the underlay fabric cut out the parts of your future bag (except the pocket and the decorative ribbon). Photo 13.

    The underside is sewn in the same way as the front. Photo 14.

    Put the flap parts together with their front sides facing each other. Stitch them together, leaving a 7 cm clearance gap. Make incisions in the rounded edges. Cut the sharp corners close to the stitching. Turn it the right side out. Iron the clearance gap. Photo 15.

    Put the flap onto the front side of the bag. The distance from the upper edge should be 2.5 cm. Stitch it to the bag. Photo 16.

    Now, you'll make bag handle hinges out of the corded silk ribbon. Sew them onto the bag near the side seams. To make them more durable, fold the ribbon in two. Photo 17.

    Now, sew in the lining and zipper. Photo 18.

    Attach the ready handle with carabiner-style clasps to the hinges. Photo 19.


    In-The-Hoop. A heart for sweets on a Sweetheart Day

    Original text by Marina Belova 
    A few days ago I remembered that St Valentines Day was ahead, so why not to invent something special for the occasion (I have already made an embroidered postcard). Though I have plenty of ideas, I settled on another project that doesn't involve a sewing machine. 
    As the result, I got this bag for candies with a Velcro. With the candies properly tucked inside. 

    Initially, I intended to make a heart with a zipper but abandoned this highly interesting option shortly after. The lack of an appropriately colored zipper was the reason. Therefore, I opted for a Velcro fastener instead. I should try it out, shouldn't I? 
    Having measured the Velcro, I drew a very simple picture (very simple was exactly what I needed): 

    Then I created 2 simple designs. One for the box itself. With its help I prepared 2 templates which would be then fastened with a Velcro: 

    The second one was for the back side and holding all the details together: 

    I chose fleece, a knitwear fabric, as a basis for my embroidery. I opted for it not only because it was of an appropriate color (pink), but also because this fabric was highly stretchy so it would be convenient for me to fill it with the sweets afterward. 
    Time to proceed to the embroidery. I hoop the stabilizer: 

    Load the first half of the design and stitch the guideline that will mark the position of our future embroidery: 

    Then attach the first part of the Velcro with its adhesive side in. I secured it with a paper tape, like that: 

    Put a piece of fleece on top on the Velcro: 

    Started the machine, stitched the Velcro, secured the edge with a zig-zag, embroidered the first part of the front side of the heart and marked the place for the next detail: 

    Now it's the time to position another piece along the key lines: 

    Then stitch the fleece to the stabilizer. The basting stitch shows where the Velcro is going to be. I forgot to make a snapshot. But, in my opinion, everything is clear even without it, especially if you take a look at the picture containing the first part of the design. I attached the Velcro adhesive side up along the guideline and secured it with tape: 

    Stitched it: 

    Took out all the details, cut along the perimeter. These will be my templates for the next stage — sewing parts of the heart together. 
    Hooped another piece of stabilizer: 

    Loaded the second half of the design and marked the places where parts of the heart will be joined together: 

    Took the hoop off the machine, turned it the wrong way out and secured a piece of fleece on the layout with temporary spray adhesive – this would be the back side of my box. The fabric should be face up: 

    Carefully, so as not to shift the fabric from below,I inserted the hoop back into the machine. 

    Time for attaching the front side of the heart bounded together with a Velcro fastener. Which is what I did: 

    I started the machine and stitched the heart with the small-scale zig-zag along the perimeter. I was lucky and two zig-zags almost completely coincided. Usually, it is hard to position all the details on the layout and achieve a perfect fit:

    Once again, take the hoop off and turn them the wrong side up: 

    Trim the extra fabric near zig-zag: 

    After that you can replace your bobbin thread with the one matching your upper thread in color: 

    Insert the hoop back into the machine and embroider the finishing border: 

    Detach the heart from the stabilizer. 

    Then do the cleaning: remove the threads that stick out, also connectors, and singe the edges with the lighter so that to get rid of the protruding fibers. I haven't removed the stabilizer and left it as it is. Almost ready. 
    Fill the heart with the sweets: 

    After that, act according to the situation. 
    As a result of my impromptu, I've come to the following conclusions: 
    Don't stitch the Velcro with a finishing border — the result will be too dense. You can avoid it by using a smaller piece.  If you slightly change the sequence in the second part of the design, you can embroider the back side of the heart, too. In that case, it won't look so empty. 
    This would also reduce the number of steps.  But, as they say, the first pancake is always a failure. 

    Fringe to imitate fur

    Original text by Marina Belova 
    I've always been interested (and hope that I ever will be) not only in conventional machine embroidery techniques but also in (as my Western colleagues call them) various "advanced" ones that help to enrich the look of the embroidery. 
    About a year ago I've decided to experiment with fringe after having seen a free embroidery design on one of the websites abroad. It was a funny-looking lamb made with the use of the fringe embroidery. Moreover, I could never have guessed the way it was made unless I've seen it with my own eyes. See how good is to study other digitizers' work sometimes. So I set out to create something like that myself. But left it midway because of time shortage. 
    My efforts resulted in this fluffy hare. Now I'm determined to somewhat enhance the technique that I'd seen by adding acrylic threads. So as to get a real good imitation of fur: 

    This is how it looks from the side: 

    Choosing the right density and stitch length turned out to be the problem. My hare's fur was not dense enough – you could see the fabric showing through. 
    Today I decided to finish what I started. 
    I chose a simple image so that not to embroider anything except satin stitches and running stitches for tie-offs. I downloaded one of the free images off the Internet: 

    Of course, I don't have such a vibrant color. But I have a spool of Gunold black acrylic thread. Sure, it will make the fluffy thing a bit morose. But let's leave it as it is – Halloween’s nearing, right? I wouldn't buy the threads for the test project, would I? 
    So, this is how I actually did it. I began digitizing a design from the bottom upward. My decision was driven by the fact that fur usually goes down. 
    I digitized my fluffy animal with long satins stitches (10–12 mm) so that it would be easier to trim on the wrong side. Remembering the bald patches on the hare I embroidered in the past, I decided to add some underlay in order to make the fur thicker and opted for double zigzags. I set the density at 2.5 lines per 1 mm (it is the way the density is measured in the Stitch Era). 

    I secured satins with running stitches (marked green) so that they didn't unwind after trimming: 

    A bit higher I put one more satin column with the same settings. This new column (marked blue) slightly overlapped with the previous one: 

    It, too, was secured with the running stitches (marked gray): 

    In such a way, little by little, I got to the head of the fluffy thing. At the end of the sequence were the eyes digitized with an ordinary thread. Then, as an afterthought, I drew a manual underlay under the entire design just in case. 
    The fluffy thing became rather unsightly. 

    I proceeded to the embroidery. Inserted a #100 needle for the acrylic thread. There was much trouble with the tension — I got 3 or 4 "bird nests" and that sent me back to square one. Finally, I managed to find the right settings – no more "bird nests" or thread breakage. But to be on the safe side, I set the machine speed at 450 rpm. The design has a low number of stitches anyway, so it will be embroidered quickly. 
    When embroidering the eyes it became clear that the density in the acrylic area was excessive; I was under the impression that the needle sunk repeatedly and that such density was too much for my machine. But none of my needles – and I only use #70 ones – broke. 
    This is the look of the fluffy creature had after the embroidery: 

    And here we come to the most complicated and responsible part, in which we need to cut the threads on the wrong side and pull the out to the front. 
    This is the wrong side of the animal before trimming: 

    One look at it made it clear to me that something should be done with my machine so that threads stopped breaking and"bird nests" would be no longer popping up. 
    I made a cut exactly in the middle of a satin column as the bobbin thread was practically invisible. It didn't take me long, for the satins were wide and the scissors glided under them effortlessly. 

    This is how the wrong side looked after the thread cutting: 

    Now I could turn the embroidery the right side out and pull the threads to the front. 

    And that proved to be extremely difficult. As the threads were thick, they wouldn't be pulled in bunches. Sometimes it came down to just 1 or 2 threads at a time so that not to rip anything. But in the end I got this cutie: 

    Side look: 

    It has a long thick fur without any bald spots. I even had to trim it in several places. 
    So my summary on the subject is as follows: this technique is sure not for the work-shy. Too many manipulations. Digitizing is easy, though. 

    In-The-Hoop. A bag for paper tissues

    Original text by Marina Belova 
    I like to embroider items that don't need any sewing on the follow-up. The ones that come out of the hoop completely ready. Not so long ago I saw how to make a simple bag for the ordinary paper tissues and decided to do one myself. Make use of my designing skills, after all. The current season calls for paper tissues. 

    I measured an ordinary pack: 

    That gave me an idea for the item size and various details, such as interlocking flaps, so I chose a simple picture. For this, I used CorelDraw and here is what I got: 

    When creating a design, I bore in mind the fabric type. I'd chosen fleece, for it does not fray and, therefore, doesn't require an edge finish. 

    The next steps are simple, as are all truly great things. 
    You print the templates for the details of your future item on paper: 

    Cut them out: 

    Sprinkle them with temporary spray adhesive and arrange them on the fabric: 

    Now cut out the details: 

    Hoop the stabilizer only: I used a middle-weight cut-away stabilizer as I'm going to embroider on fleece. 

    Now load the design and embroider a guideline: 

    Pick up the flaps, sprinkle them with temporary spray adhesive and arrange in the area outlined with the basting stitch with their right side up: 


    Start your embroidery machine and stitch the details along the perimeter to attach them to the stabilizer: 

    My fleece has rather high pile, so I covered it with a piece of thin water-soluble film: 

    At this point, I realized that I made a little mistake while planning an embroidery sequence, and if I didn't turn the flap back, the roses in the upper part would stitch both flaps together. This is how I wiggled out of it: turned the fabric back (it appeared to be stretchy) and secured it with pins.
    Here is what I got: 

    Before embroidering the lower flap I took the pins out: 

    And this is how the end result looks: 

    After that I tore away the film, sprayed the other detail with adhesive and secured it on top of the one already embroidered with its wrong side up: 

    I hit the start button and stitched the whole "sandwich" perimeter-wise: 

    Unhooped the embroidery, tore away the stabilizer and removed the leftovers of the film: 

    Turned the item the right side up and got a bag. The work is finished! 

    After seeing the right side it became clear that the embroidery on the lower flap should have been placed higher. I can now put the tissues in my bag. 
    In the nearest future, I intend to write an article about digitizing and embroidering on fleece. 
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    • By duferk2 in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
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      hello, i have machine Brother pro 1050X. i have problem Embroidery pattern does not sew out correctly. look photo. how fix this problem? thanks
    • By Embroidery Life in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
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      Im looking to buy a needle embroidery machine and found one for sale on Sold Tiger as well as other embroidery equipment. I thought many of you here will be interested in some embroidery equipment.
    • By Travis in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         0
      The present focused market calls for imaginative ways to deal with advancement of custom embroidery services. From imaginative introductions to simple to-explore online web stores to stunning IT administration frameworks, we give our clients the ability to broaden their corporate marking activities and surpass their showcasing objectives. Also, our far reaching request preparing and satisfaction administrations enable them to stay concentrated on their center business while our turnkey operation deals with the difficulties of the advancements and satisfaction business.
      Considering your alternatives for custom attire, embroidered clothing conveys a fundamental feeling of value that addresses the intuitive of customers and clients, giving a sentiment trust and fulfillment.
      Advantages of custom embroidery:
      It gives you a professional appearance. It can be put on a wide assortment of materials. It lasts longer (doesn't wear off like silkscreen paint does). It can be washed easily. Large amount of shades are accessible in it. Some typical examples of custom embroidery embroider clothing are:
      Hoodies – flexible for a scope of icy climate outside work. Sweatshirts – like hoodies, a sweatshirt is extraordinary to keeping warm and agreeable. Fleeces– Zipped fleeces are a decent hindrance against unforgiving conditions. Shorts – In summer, shorts for men and ladies are accessible to keep cool. Action Trousers – A more down to earth and hard wearing other option to brilliant pants. Body warmers – Another extraordinary expansion to icy climate work.




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