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Beautiful design, Morning owl look amazing.

This embroidery work up perfectly and stitch out nicely. 
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Excellent stitches and original style

Stitched out beautifully! Looked amazing and no issues!
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Loving birds.. Wonderful designs, stitched out beautifully

Really cute, You love this when you stitched it. Would love more of same designs.
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Our designs looks great

Stitched out beautifully! Wonderful decoration!
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Adorable design. Stitches out beautifully.

"Thanks so much for this design It's lovely and stitched out beautifully on leather."
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  • Making lace on the edge of the napkin using embroidery.

    Embroidered napkins are the classic decoration of a modern house. They easily fit into the interior of any living room or kitchen. If you have an embroidery machine and free time, you can make it yourself. It is needed sometimes to process the edge of a fabric beautifully.
    There are a lot of creative methods to do this and we will consider one in the master-class: lace making on the edge of a items. One may decorate a dining cotton napkin, a handkerchief or any other items this way. There is a plenty of machine embroidery designs in FSL technique, choose the one you prefer for your items. Such patterns can be easily found in our embroidery design library.
    Materials which you need for work:  
    Water soluble machine embroidery stabilizer (interlining). Our recommendation Avalon. Adhesive spray of a temporary fixation Sulky or GUNOLD KK100 Top thread for machine embroidery (any brand) - we using Robison Anton Lower thread for machine embroidery or bobbins Fabric for the napkin Processing of lace on the edge of a embroidered item:
    Fix the water soluble stabilizer in the hoop. Download the embroidery design to the your machine (or save to USB stick or special memory card). Start the embroidery processing. The first stitching would mark where to layout the edge of the tissue on the stabilizer.



    Apply a layer of the adhesive spray on the stabilizer. Glue the tissue by markup and repeat the stitching of the first thread color, this would fix the tissue on the stabilizer. Then keep on embroidering the lace part of the napkin.



    The embroidery would be on the edge and on the corner, if you combined the machine embroidery design in a special editing software (My Editor, Embird, Brother Pe-DEsign, Wilcom TrueSizer, Buzz Tools and etc.). The processing of the other parts of the napkin would be repeated with connection. Fix the water soluble stabilizer in the hoop again and embroider the first color of the pattern. Fasten the second corner of the napkin on the stabilizer.



    Repeat the process of embroidering the design on the edge round the napkin.



    Cut off the stabilizer close to the edge of the embroidery. Rinse the embroidered napkin with the lace edge in plenty of warm water at the end of work.



    Napkin ready. In the same way you can arrange a tablecloth or a handkerchief.

    Machine embroidery consumables: what and how to use: Threads

    Finally! You’ve become a happy owner of an embroidery machine.  The euphoria from the purchase is gradually cooling off, and a whole array of questions arises before the new master. What to do next? Which threads to use? Which needles to use and how not to lose your way in a huge variety of stabilizers? In this article, based on my own experience, I’ll tell you what’s what and indicate issues you should focus upon in the first place and the ones that can be left for later.
    Threads
    High-quality threads guarantee a long life for your new helper. Let me tell you straight away: you should not use sewing threads for machine embroidery designs. Machine embroidery threads are polished in a special way so that very little or no noil appear. (Noil clutters the mechanism, thus reducing the lifespan of an embroidery machine). I must admit that some embroiderers use the ordinary sewing threads and, what’s more, advocate for such usage. Well, everybody should decide for themselves. For me, this is unacceptable, because an embroidery machine costs far too much to risk its health by using threads of low quality. The embroidery threads fit into several categories.
    1. Rayon threads
    These threads are made of rayon. They have a strong sheen. The embroidery is softer than the ones made with other threads. But there are also disadvantages. First, a sheen given by rayon threads in not always appropriate (for example, in the embroidery on men’s clothes). Second, rayon can be weakened by chlorine, therefore, items embroidered with rayon threads must not be bleached. Third, when using a water soluble stabilizer and then dissolving it in water rayon threads lose some of their luster and the embroidery becomes dimmer. Almost every manufacturer has an assortment of rayon embroidery threads. I can recommend Gunold Silky threads, because they are good for their money. On the other hand, the threads made by several Chinese manufacturers have left a very unfavorable impression. Better to spend a little more and embroider comfortably than to use cheap threads and have to deal with persistent thread breakage and knots.
    2. Polyester threads
    Polyester embroidery threads are practically as good as rayon ones, and in some ways even better. Their sheen is more restrained, they are chlorine-resistant and are compatible with water-soluble stabilizers. There are well-established threads by Amann (Isacord), Gunold (Poly) and Madeira, although the last ones are rather pricey.
    3. Cotton threads
    These threads are matt-finished, thus helping to imitate hand embroidery. This is of vital importance for vyshyvanka (a Ukrainian traditional embroidered shirt), cross stitch, embroidery on men’s clothes and so on.

    Due to these threads being rather thick, it is recommended to run the machine at a low speed.
    Polyester threads with cotton sheath, like the ones made by Amann (Rasant), are a good alternative. They combine the durability of polyester with the matt finish of the cotton threads.
    4. Metallic threads
    These are essentially durable polyester threads with a metallic sheath.

    Special needles should be used with metallic threads. Do not cover large areas with them, because they leave miniature notches, and may lead to loops and thread breakage in future.
    Other types of embroidery threads
    This type of threads includes acrylic threads that imitate woolen embroidery, various fluorescent threads that glow at night, like Glowy by Gunold, chameleonic threads that change their color in the sunlight, etc.
    I’d like to place the embroidery underthreads into a separate category. These are the ultra-thin threads that are reeled on a bobbin. They make the wrong side of the embroidery soft without adding weight.
    For a beginner, I’d recommend to first purchase a basic floss palette containing 2 or 3 shades of every color + monochromatic colors + underthreads, and then add the necessary colors on demand.

    Machine embroidery consumables: what and how to use: Stabilizers

    No high-quality machine embroidery is possible without a stabilizer. Various manufacturers offer a gazillion of stabilizers for any taste and budget. Beginners sometimes feel lost in the midst of it all, now knowing which ones to purchase.
    Let’s try and figure it out.
    Stabilizers can be divided into two types: toppings and backings. Backings are intended to shoulder the load during the embroidery in order to avoid puckering, while toppings are used to prevent stitches from sinking – for example, on piled fabric or loosely-knitted items, – and also partly shoulder the load during the embroidery.
    1. Tearaway stabilizers
    These stabilizers are made of cellulose or pressurized paper. They are the ones used most often.  They are either hooped together with the fabric or separately, with fabric placed upon it and stitched to hold it in place.
    Tearaway stabilizers vary in density, measured in g/m2. There is a common belief (a wrong one) that one should pick a lower-density stabilizer for thin fabrics, and higher-density stabilizers – for thick ones. The more support a fabric needs, the denser should be the stabilizer. For example, it’s better to use an 80 g/m2 stabilizer for a capricious satin, while for the dense linen or denim fabric 40 g/m2 will be enough.
    A high-quality tearaway stabilizer should be easily removed after the embroidery; when crumpled, it becomes soft and flexible, and in water, it should split into separate fibers.
    For me, at this particular moment, the best tearaway stabilizer is an 80 g/m2 Rainbow Doklas, also a tearaway stabilizer by Vilene; the one by Gunold is not so good.
    2. Adhesive tearaway stabilizers
    They consist of a tearaway stabilizer with a sticky side. They are attached to the fabric by ironing without steam.
    These stabilizers are intended for holding in place elastic and stretchable materials so that they don’t spread out during the embroidery. Are often paired with a simple tearaway. An adhesive topping prevents the fibers from stretching, and a tearaway backing shoulders the load during the embroidery in order to avoid puckering.
    Density and quality requirements for such stabilizers are the same as for the ordinary tearaways. Vilene stabilizers have a good reputation.
    3. Water-soluble stabilizers
    These include fusible interfacing and films of varying density.
    Fusible interfacing is used:
    ⦁    for cutwork and lace;
    ⦁     for 3D embroidery;
    ⦁     where the wrong side should look neat;
    ⦁     for the embroidery on netting, etc.
    Density also varies. A high-quality stabilizer should be easily dissolved in water, leaving no traces. It is the one most often used as a backing.
    Water-soluble films can be thin (20 microns) or thick (about 80 microns).
    Thin films are used as a topping for piled fabrics (velour, velvet, fleece, terry cloth, etc.) or loosely knitted materials (jersey, knits) in order to prevent stitches from sinking.  They are easily torn away after the embroidery, and the rest can be removed by a slightly wet sponge

    Thin film is used on its own when embroidering lace.
    Vilene interfacing materials and Gunold water-soluble films have an excellent track record.
    4. Heat-away stabilizers
    Are used in a way similar to the water-soluble, with the fabrics that can be damaged by water (velvet, natural silk and so on).
    Termofilm Consists of a heat-away film. It’s operating principle is similar to the water-soluble film’s. It is placed on top of the fabric with its grainy side facing down. Iron without steam, moving in circles, will easily remove it. During this, the stabilizers leftovers are rolled into balls that can be brushed off later.

    Thermogaze A fusible material used a base fabric for creating lace or as a backing. When heated by an iron, disintegrates into tiny fibers that can be removed by a brush.

    5. Filmoplast
    This is an adhesive stabilizer, intended for embroidering of the items and fabrics, which cannot be hooped (leather, fur, small ready items).
    Filmoplast is hooped separately with a sticky side facing up. A protective layer slightly bigger than the embroidery area is peeled off, and the item or a piece of fabric is attached onto it.
    One of the disadvantages of this kind of stabilizers is that Filmoplast takes effort to remove.
    My recommended basic set of stabilizers for beginners:
    1. Tearaway stabilizer of a varying density, 2–3 m each
    2. Tearaway adhesive stabilizer, 1–2 m each
    3. Water-solubles and films, 1 m each
    Others are bought on demand, depending on the money available.
    Other machine embroidery consumables
    Puffy is a puffed up foam used to add volume to the machine embroidery designs.

    Temporary spray adhesive Necessary for temporarily gluing the fabric to a stabilizer, such as cutaway, or the appliqué material to the main fabric. 
    An adhesive should be sprayed onto a stabilizer, not the fabric, in order to avoid stains.
    Starch spray Used to stiffen thin or flowing fabrics (chiffon, batiste). A starched fabric is easier to hoop. Sometimes it allows embroidering without other stabilizers. As a result, the embroidery stays soft and flexible.
    “Clean backing” is an adhesive interfacing material, used to cover the wrong side of the embroidery out of the aesthetic reasons. It is ironed from the wrong side after the embroidery has been completed.
    I hope that this article will help the beginners to make their first steps or broaden the horizons for the more experienced embroiderers in the colorful world of machine embroidery.
    Easy stitching to you all!
     

    Madeira’s Avalon water-soluble stabilizers

    Hi friends! Today we’ll talk about water-soluble stabilizers by Madeira. I’ll try to show you what they can do and where you may apply them.
    Madeira has a line of water-soluble stabilizers named Avalon. Therefore, it is not correct to apply this name to all water-soluble products. When we say ‘Avalon’, we mean Madeira, and when we say ‘Madeira’, Avalon is implied. Madeira offers 4 items in that department. They have different properties and functions.
    Avalon Film
    A thin semitransparent water-soluble film. To the touch, it is like a plastic bag. This stabilizer can only be used as a topping. It is good for terry cloth, piled fabrics, knits, and fur. You put it on top of your fabric in order to prevent the sinking of the stitches.
    Avalon Ultra
    Dense water-soluble film. It looks very similar to the greenhouse covering material. Machine embroiderers use it as a main fabric when creating thin diaphanous laces, such as Battenberg lace or Vologda lace. You hoop the stabilizer, choose a design of a certain kind, and embroider. The dense film is also used for cutwork and Hardanger, where you cut out the holes and then apply the material.
    Avalon Plus
    A non-woven material that is also used as a main fabric for the embroidery. Works well for felting, cutwork, and Hardanger embroidery. If you’re making lace and want it to maintain its shape in future, Avalon Plus is the right choice. You hoop the stabilizer and embroider. After the embroidery is completed, the stabilizer is washed away.
    If you want my personal opinion, I like Avalon Plus more. To me, it seems more reliable, though while I was writing this article, I asked Irina Lisitza, our technology specialist, and she said that for thin laces, she prefers Avalon Ultra because it washes out better.
    Avalon Fix
    This one is similar in structure to Avalon Plus, but with an adhesive layer and protection paper cover. It is used as backing for embroidery on very thin and diaphanous fabrics, such as batiste, tulle netting, and organza. In other words, in all those cases where the stabilizer is hard to remove or where it makes the embroidery too dense. The making process is simple. You hoop the stabilizer, cut the protective cover, put your fabric on top of it and do the embroidery.
    This is all, in a nutshell. Happy embroidery! 
     
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  • Embroidery Blog Entries

    • By Mario Tovar in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         0
      Printing of labels requires that materials be of the right label and the one that suits the customers and specification. The materials need to have long-lasting and quality prints, with amazing number of colors you need and with the right layout or barcodes. There are numerous number of ways in which labels can be produced, some of which require great equipment although others are just easy, reliable and very convenient to use. These methods or technologies include;
      DIRECT TO GARMENT PRINTER.
      It involves printing on textiles using a certain amazing technology of using ink jet. The DTG printers hold the clothes at a constant position, the specialized ink jets smear the ink on the garment using the print heads, and they directly absorbed by the fibers in the garment.
      It generally used in printing of T-shirts, canvases, bags among others. The most attractive features about the direct to garment printer is its incredible features which include high quality printing which actually requires low cost per print, its vast24 by 16 printing area and eventually its removable platen system. These features ensure that this printer stands out from the others and hence preferred by most people.
      DIRECT GARMENT INK.
      It offers an exclusive simplicity of the fixation process and an eco-friendly way of printing on natural fibers. These inks are largely suited to fabric materials and they are mostly used in printing of garments.DTG Ink is made in such a way that it can highly improve performance on fabrics and its associated blends. These inks can bring about fantastic results especially due to their color strength. This in turn will bring about excellent results of the DTG printer.
      Before the process of printing begins, the garments should coat with a pre-treatment liquid with the sole purpose of enhancing color reproduction so that the color can appear on top of the fabric.
      KEY FEATURES OF DTG INK.
      The color strength is high. The jet ability is reliable and accurate. Clog free print heads. Great print head performance. One of the key things to note is that DTG Ink is not applicable on all types of fabrics. It mostly recommended on cotton, polyester, poly-cotton, cotton blends, jute and viscose. GAMUT PLUS INK.
      These are designed to bring about exclusive results on polyester and cotton fabrics. They work in a way that ensures that the brightness after washing are retained which result in less waste and also helps you in retaining your customers. One interesting feature about the gamut plus ink is that it ensures optimal production. This is brought about by the fact that the gamut plus ink is made to’’ set’’ faster meaning that there is no need to wait for the white ink to set before printing since one can easily take advantage of the pass modes which are on the printer.
      ADVANTAGES.
      It is more reliable since ink flows better in the printer. It uses an advanced technology. It is very compatible since it can be used on any direct to garment using Epson(R)DX5, DX7 printer heads. REATREAT MACHINE FOR DTG PRINTERS.
      It allows for faster cleanup, which means that the quality of the prints will be highly improved, and hence production increases.
    • By LPT in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         2
      Hi all!  Hoping for help. I’m doing a cap. Six letters offset to the left side on the cap. The beginning of the word is 1/8” lower than the last letter. It’s sewing uphill. How do I get the last letter flush with the first?


    • By duferk2 in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         3
      hello, i have machine Brother pro 1050X. i have problem Embroidery pattern does not sew out correctly. look photo. how fix this problem? thanks
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