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Beautiful design, Morning owl look amazing.

This embroidery work up perfectly and stitch out nicely. 
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Excellent stitches and original style

Stitched out beautifully! Looked amazing and no issues!
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Loving birds.. Wonderful designs, stitched out beautifully

Really cute, You love this when you stitched it. Would love more of same designs.
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Our designs looks great

Stitched out beautifully! Wonderful decoration!
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Adorable design. Stitches out beautifully.

"Thanks so much for this design It's lovely and stitched out beautifully on leather."
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  • Monogram pillow: a tutorial

    Monogram pillow: a tutorial
    A pillow with an embroidered monogram is a home textile classic. It makes a wonderful wedding, jubilee, christening or no occasion gift. Pillows are wonderful for machine embroidery beginners who want to learn the machine embroidery basics and practice to acquire the necessary skills. This is a brief guide into making the embroidered monogram pillows.
    Monogram pillow. Materials
    Fabric Zipper Braided cording with lip Machine embroidery design Cutaway or tearaway adhesive stabilizer Water-soluble stabilizer (optional) Upper thread Underthread Monogram pillow. Cutting
    For a pillow size 40x40 cm cut two squares of side 43 cm. I used non-stretchy upholstery fabric, dense but with a pronounced twill weave. Before you start working, you should finish the edges of this fabric with the serger, in order to prevent fraying.
    Monogram pillow. Embroidery
    Adhere the stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric. Find the center of each side and draw the crosshairs. Their point of intersection will mark the center of your future embroidery. Hoop your fabric. Attach the hoop to the machine and cover it with a layer of thin water-soluble film (in case the weave of the fabric is a pronounced one).
    Select the basting stitch and stitch the water-soluble stabilizer to the fabric.
    Hit the start button and embroider your design. You may pick a sole-colored or a multi-colored one or embroider a multi-colored design without changing the upper thread color.

    Some embroidery/sewing and embroidery machines have an option of monochromatic embroidery. Peruse the manual that comes with your equipment to use its capabilities to the fullest.

    Having finished the embroidery, remove the stabilizer leftovers.

    Monogram pillow. Cording
    Round the edges of your pillow a bit. Stitch the cording to the right side of your pillow, along the edges. To attach the cording at the corners, make small incisions so that it lays more easily.

    Stitch it with a special cording foot or a zipper foot.

    Original text by Irina Lisitsa
    Don't forget to visit our shop to buy some lovely monograms!
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    How to embroider small items of clothing. Hooping tricks

    How to embroider small items of clothing. Hooping tricks
    Whenever there is a need to embroider small items of clothing, such as future pockets or cuffs, and your machine only has one hoop, these hooping tricks will do the job. There are several ways of hooping a small item, and in this article, I’m describing two of them. Either one will get you a beautiful high-quality embroidery.
    The first way of hooping a small item is to glue it to the tear-away adhesive stabilizer. Just what you need for not-too-heavy designs and small monograms. Adhere the item to the stabilizer and hoop in the usual way; the adhesive will secure the fabric in place and prevent shifting during the embroidery.

    The second way is to hoop the fabric itself. Suitable for smaller and bigger items alike. This is called the fabric extension method. You’ll need a few strips of extra fabric (calico, for example). Stitch them to the main fabric with a straight stitch about 5 mm long.  

    After that, it is advisable to press seams with an iron to make them flatter. Adhere the stabilizer to the wrong side and hoop the item.

    If you're an owner of a Brother Innov-is le sewing and embroidery machine, you can use the built-in camera for the exact positioning of the design.
    This is very handy whenever the accurate placement of the design is crucial, such as while working with checkered or striped fabrics.
    How to use the built-in camera
    Press the Fabric scan key to view the location of the pressing foot on the LCD screen. Pick one of the positioning stickers that come with the machine and affix it within the embroidery field specified by the machine.  

    Take away the sticker and your hands and wait for the machine to perform the scan. Now the pattern can be viewed in the Embroidery Edit screen, allowing for the better positioning of the design on the hooped item.  

    When the embroidery is finished, remove the stabilizer leftovers or rip off the extra strips of fabric and iron the item on a soft underlay, right side down.

    Original text by Irina Lisitsa
    Don't forget to buy some lightweight designs from our store!
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    Patchwork quilt for a child

    Patchwork quilt for a child
    If you have a small kid or are expecting one and love sewing, this tutorial is for you. Using only natural fabrics, you can decorate a child’s bed with a patchwork quilt of your own making. Haven't tried patchwork quilting yet? Now is the right time! To create a simple quilt block, you’ll need scraps of bright-colored fabrics and a sewing machine. Let’s go!
    Patchwork quilt for a child. Materials
    For this patchwork quilt, I’ve bought a ready set of fabrics with batik print and a piece of sole-colored backing fabric. There were 40 squares in the bundle, size 12.5x12.5 cm.

    You may cut your own squares or buy a ready fabric set, as I did.
    To make the quilt warmer and puffier, you’ll need a thing called quilt batting, designed specifically for this purpose. It is usually made of cotton, bamboo, wool, or their combinations.
    You’ll also need some lining fabric. As you’re making a kid’s quilt, this fabric ought to be natural. Cotton, calico or lightweight calico will do splendidly.
    Patchwork quilt for a child. Cutting
    For a patchwork quilt, cut the same number of squares out of your sole-colored backing fabric. Place the squares by pairs with their right sides together, a bright-colored plus a sole-colored one. Draw the lines on the sides to mark the seam allowance. In my bundle, the size of the squares didn't ideally correspond to the one I needed. So I drew two parallel lines at a distance of 11.5 cm. That would mark the width of the ready square. Done that? Pin the pieces together.

    Patchwork quilt for a child. Joining the pieces
    Stitch along the lines on the right and of the left.

    Repeat with the top and the bottom of the square. Press the seam allowances.

    Now draw the diagonal lines from one corner to the other. Cut the squares along those lines.

    Join these smaller pieces by pairs, their right sides together. This is the most interesting part; you can “play” with the squares and create various combinations. Remember the kaleidoscope you’ve probably had in your childhood. Choose your pattern, arrange the blocks and pin them together so as not to mess up the whole thing. Baste them together and press the seam allowances. 

    Lay the resulting short strips of fabrics together and sew them to each other. While arranging the pieces, position them so that their seam allowances are oriented in different directions, thus “locking” them. Having sewn the pieces together, unstitch the fabric near the “lock” and press the seam allowance open (see in the photo below).

    In our future tutorial, we’ll tell you how to arrange the quilt blocks into a ready quilt.

    Original text by Irina Lisitsa
    See also:

    Hooping the fabric without hooping

    Hooping the fabric without hooping
    Practically any new technique is born in the course of creation. Again and again, we conjure out new techniques that make our production time shorter and our coffee breaks longer.
    The hooping method I’m going to describe in this article was suggested to me by one of the Broidery.ru forum first members. And, just like in the Broken Telephone game, while passing hands the concept changed somewhat, though I tried to stick to the original one. Sergei Demin, who inspired me, endorsed my version and promised to elaborate on the original idea in the nearest future.
    Before you start reading, I’d like to tell you in what cases this wonderful little technique might come in handy:
    Use it to embroider a large number of the same size designs. It will save you a lot of time. If your fabric is of a lightweight and delicate kind, this method will allow you to forego the hooping part. If you do not own a small hoop, and for a larger one the piece to be embroidered is too tiny, this method will spare you sewing on additional strips of fabric in order to enlarge it. You understand, no doubt, that I’ve covered only the basic rules here — it is for you, dear reader, to expand upon them!
    So, happy hooping without hooping!
    The work order
    You’ll need a piece of polyethylene a little larger than your hoop, double-sided painter’s tape, and the hoop.

    Hoop the polyethylene.

    Better pick plastic sheeting they use for covering greenhouses: it is dense enough and doesn't warp (almost). 
    Stick the painter’s tape to the inner side of the hoop.

    After that, unpeel the protective layer. Stick another layer of tape on top of the first. 
    Determine the size of the embroidery area.

    Then, cut the hole with 5 mm allowance.

    Choose an appropriate stabilizer and attach it to the wrong side of the fabric.

    Place the fabric on the prepared surface and start the embroidery.

    Having finished, remove the embroidered piece of fabric and replace it with the new one. Continue the embroidery.

    In order to determine the size of the embroidery area, attach the taped hoop to the machine. Load the design and observe the embroidery area on your display. The machine will determine the boundaries of the design and move the needle bar to outline the perimeter, making short stops at the corners.
    When the needle is directly above the corner, drop it to make a puncture in the polyethylene sheet with the painter’s tape attached to it. Raise it, and the machine will continue the demonstration. Having found the 4 corner points, you’ll draw a rectangle without difficulty. After that, cut the hole the size of the embroidery area with 5 mm allowance.
    Keep in mind that the sticky side of the tape should hold the fabric in place, and therefore, this method may not be suitable for the designs almost as big as the hoop.
    Use the sticky hoop until the adhesive tape fails to hold the fabric in place.

    Idea by Sergei Demin
    See also:
  • Free machine embroidery designs

  • Topics

  • Embroidery Blog Entries

    • By Hunter11 in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
      When looking for an embroidery machine you’ll likely be overwhelmed by long lists of machine parts listed as features. That’s a standard marketing gimmick that most businesses employ – mentioning all the basic components of a product as if they are something special in order to fool people into buying it. And if you’re not familiar with the subject, you can understandably be confused by it.
      So, to help you out, here’s a quick list of the main components you can expect to see in a standard, good embroidery machine. Having these components is pretty much a must for a good item so it’s best to get to know them and what they do. 
      The main embroidery machine components
      Embroidery machines have several key parts that you’ll always need to look for:
      Needle bar
      The needle bar is where the needles of an embroidery machine are contained. The needle bar is also what’s moving them up and down to create the stitching. 
      Embroidery arm and head
      The arm and the head of an embroidery machine are the two components that work in tandem to create the stitches. The arm moves the hooped fabric around while the head is where the needles, the needle bar, and the thread are contained. 
      Cap frame
      This is simply a stabilizing frame that’s used specifically for caps and hats. 
      Frame sash
      The frame sash is also called a “pantograph”. It’s what holds the frame connected to the embroidery arm and that’s actually doing all the movements. The frame sash, the embroidery arm, and the hoop, all move together, as a single unit as the embroidery machine works. 
      Embroidery hoop and frame
      All embroidery machines have either a hoop or a frame. This is what keeps the fabric in place during the stitching. The hoop or the frame is mounted on top of the embroidery arm and they move under the needle during the stitching. 
      Standard sewing machine parts
      As most embroidery machines double as standard sewing machines as well, it’s a good idea to be aware of the basic sewing machine components as well. We won’t go into detail for them here but these are the basic parts of any decent sewing machines you should expect to see. Don’t fall for it if you see them being listed as a “special feature” but also make sure to note it if they are missing or they’re offered as paid add-ons. 

      •    Spool pin
      •    Bobbin binder spindle
      •    Bobbin winder stopper
      •    Stitch width dial
      •    Pattern selector dial
      •    Hand wheel
      •    Stitch length dial
      •    Reverse stitch lever
      •    Power stitch
      •    Bobbin winder thread guide
      •    Thread tension dial
      •    Thread take-up lever
      •    Needle clamp screw
      •    Presser foot
      •    Bobbin cover
      •    Bobbin cover release button
      •    Feed dog
      •    Needle
      •    Needle plate
      Embroidery machine settings and electronic controls
      Lastly, let’s talk about the basic settings and control features you can expect to see in a modern electronic embroidery machine. A lot of people still value the act of hand embroidery but there’s no denying that electronic embroidery machines are currently the most effective and efficient tool for embroidery out there.
      LCD and stitch selection displays
      Most modern embroidery machine models have large and easy-to-use LCD displays. Usually, with touchscreens, these displays act to both showcase the features of the embroidery machine, as well as to help you control them. Things such as pattern information, stitch selection, previews of the chosen embroidery pattern, the ability to edit the pattern as you’re working, and so on, are all vital control tools that any good LCD display should enable. 
      Thread break detector and indicator
      For a smooth and efficient embroidery process, avoiding thread breaks, as well as noticing them and addressing them as quickly as possible, is a must. The thread break detector helps with that by always looking for thread breaks and halting the process as soon as one is detected. The thread break indicator works together with it by altering the user immediately on the LCD display – the thread break indicator should show where exactly the thread break has occurred so that you can repair it quickly and easily. 
      Reader/writer box
      The reader/writer box is a vital accessory for anyone who wants to work with stitch designs or patterns on their computer. This feature works by recording the digital data from the computer on a memory card. From there, you can easily transfer the information onto the embroidery machine and use it on your future embroidery works. 
      Memory card
      The memory card should go without explanation as most people nowadays should know what it is. It’s important to note that you look for embroidery machines that do have a memory card functionality, however, as there are still models that don’t have it. Being able to use a memory card on your embroidery machine is crucial as it will allow you to transfer additional embroidery patterns from your computer and using them with your embroidery machine. Without a memory card, you’ll be stuck with just the several dozen or several hundred basic embroidery patterns that have been encoded into your machine’s software. 
      Final thoughts
      When you get to know them, embroidery machines are fairly simple devices, especially if you were already aware of how a standard sewing machine works or if you knew how to embroider by hand. Nevertheless, especially if you’re still new to embroidering, getting to know the basic components and features of a good, modern embroidery machine is best done before purchasing an actual embroidery machine. Doing so will guarantee that you know what you’re buying and you’re getting the best item for your needs and preferences.
      Once you have familiarized yourself with these components and we recommend following a guide and read as many reviews as possible.  
      A great starting point is Hunting Handmade and their guide to finding the best embroidery machine, alternatively there are excellent resources right here on this forum! 
    • By Hunter11 in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
      A question we have been asked many a times on our blog and via our audience. However, we were keen to poll the community and find out exactly which brand you find the best, what better place to do it than here. Please vote on your best embroidery machine and we will update the results to our recent guide to share with our embroidery fanatics!
      Happy Voting!
    • By expressdigitising in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
      As with any industry, there can be a wide range of skill levels and common mistakes that can be found. The world of embroidery digitizing is no different. Here are 18 mistakes that you’ll want to avoid to become a world-class embroidery digitizer.
      Following the wrong stitch direction
      This is one of the biggest mistakes an embroidery digitizer can make as it has such a big impact on the overall quality. Going in the wrong direction is likely to negatively affect the stitch angle and the overall look of the final product. Careful consideration is needed to avoid such a mistake.
      Not using the right style
      Many parts of embroidery digitizing
      Not using underlay
      Using the right underlay is vital to embroidery digitizing and using none at all could cause a potential disaster. This can distort the design, especially when using multiple fabric types. Take time to consider the right underlay for you otherwise you could make your life very difficult.
      Exceeding the stitch limit
      As an digitizer, it’s important to work within the limits to ensure the high quality of the work. Trying to get your machine to do more than it’s capable of will lead to poor results. It’s important to remember your stitch limits and stick with it. Your client might have budgeted on a certain stitchcount so if you present them with a design that is double of what they expected means their costing will be way out and hence eat into their profits.
      No forward planning
      Planning is vital to all areas of design and embroidery digitizing is no different. Without it, you could end up making mistakes and end up with a poor design. A detailed planning session is required before you get started. A great embroidery digitizer will be meticulous about their work.
      Not considering the digitizing aspects
      A failure to consider digitizing aspects can be seen all around us. This often happens when push and pull compensation takes place. This will be caused by a flat frame being different from the curved substrate. Not acknowledging the difference can be a big mistake.
      Lack of pathing
      Setting the correct path is vital for digitizing. It’s important to position yourself correctly to match your design to what you see on the screen. This will prevent the machine from jumping and causing too many trims in the final product.
      Overlooking the bobbin
      The thread tension needs to be checked whenever you change the bobbin. It’s a part of embroidery digitizing that needs to become a habit. Once it is, it will allow you to complete the work to a higher standard and more efficiently. Falling into bad habits can seriously affect the work of an embroidery digitizer.
      Not knowing the minimum height of text for different fabrics
      When it comes to text, mistakes are blatantly obvious in the world of embroidery digitizing. If you go too small then it can lead to writing that is impossible to read or no spacing. This is avoided by knowing that the minimum text height is for each fabric that you use.
      Not sewing from the center5>
      This is going to be vital when working with hats. It’s important to know the requirements of each material and product you are working with. This is vital to get the right amount of push in each direction for a great finish.
      Using the wrong design application
      You can always fall into bad habits with custom embroidery digitizing and using the wrong design application is one of the biggest mistakes you can make. It will make your life a lot harder and cause a lot more issues along the way. Make time to know exactly what applications suit your different tasks.
      Poor compensation
      It’s always important to know how to perfectly fit your design. Using the wrong dimensions could mean ending up with a poor quality product. You will also have issues such as the underlay sticking out or having a poor fit in general.
      Incorrect density
      Using the wrong density can destroy a design. It could end up with you having a product that is either too thin or too thick. Both can be big issues that can affect the quality of the finished product. Having the wrong density can be a huge mistake.
      The wrong stitch width
      Using the wrong stitch width can leave you with a finished product that looks unprofessional with looping stitches and excess trims. There can also be a difference in the density of the stitching to cause further issues to leave you with a very poor finished product.
      The wrong stitch length
      Using the wrong stitch lengths can have a huge impact on the overall quality of the design. It can cause underlay to stick out and other key problems, especially with lettering. The problem is also made worse with small lettering and using the right stitch length is vital to get a professional finish.
      Using the wrong fill type
      Embroidery digitizers need to know how to use the right fill type and many can get it wrong. To avoid this mistake you need to have a clear understanding of what type of fills are going to be available. Once you know this, you’ll be able to choose the right fill every time without making any mistakes.
      Not locking the stitches
      Lock stitching isn’t always required and it can lead some to become lazy and try and leave it out in the places where it should be used. This is especially important on thicker materials and it’s important to use it when required.
      Lack of creativity by not using the correct stitch type
      Being a great embroidery digitizer involves using your creativity to come up with the best possible design. Issues can be caused, however, if you are not using the correct stitch type as this will have a big impact on how creative you can be.

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