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Beautiful design, Morning owl look amazing.

This embroidery work up perfectly and stitch out nicely. 
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Excellent stitches and original style

Stitched out beautifully! Looked amazing and no issues!
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Loving birds.. Wonderful designs, stitched out beautifully

Really cute, You love this when you stitched it. Would love more of same designs.
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Our designs looks great

Stitched out beautifully! Wonderful decoration!
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Adorable design. Stitches out beautifully.

"Thanks so much for this design It's lovely and stitched out beautifully on leather."
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  • Making patchwork quilt on the embroidery machine

    Making patchwork quilt on the embroidery machine
    Level: beginner.
    If you are fond of both quilting and machine embroidery, this tutorial is for you. Do want to make high-quality quilt blocks quickly? Patchwork quilt on the embroidery machine: high quality without painstaking and time-consuming work. Just a few easy steps will enable you to decorate your project with an ornate stitched pattern.
    Patchwork quilt on the embroidery machine: Materials:
    Upper fabric (front) Mid-layer (batting) Lower fabric (back) Upper thread Machine embroidery design (straight stitch) Visit our store to find a suitable embroidery design!
    Patchwork quilt on the embroidery machine: preparations
    Load the design into the embroidery machine or use the one from the memory. Activate the Basting option.

    Hoop the mid-layer only. For the mid-layer, you may use a high-loft polyester batting (150 gsm, two layers), cotton batting or any other kind of wadding for quilt. Choose your batting in accordance with your needs and the desired outer look of the ready item.

    In this tutorial, we’re going to quilt both the front and the back. In order to attain high quality and a beautiful back side, use identical upper and lower threads.

    Secure a piece of the backing fabric on the wrong side of the hoop with the help of a temporary spray adhesive. The wrong side of the fabric should face the batting. The piece of fabric should be approximately 5 cm larger than the ready quilt block on each side. When you make a quilt with the high-loft mid-layer, the covering fabric will get smaller, hence the shrinkage allowance.
    Patchwork quilt on the embroidery machine: machine embroidery
    Having attached the hoop to the machine, cover it with the fabric for the front, with its wrong side facing down. Hit the start button.
    With the Basting option turned on, all layers of the future block are first stitched together with a basting stitch. If your machine doesn’t have this option, create an outline with straight stitches no less than 7 mm long in any embroidery software. You will be able to use this outline for basting in your future projects.

    The outline comes first in the sewing order, before the design.


    After the embroidery is finished, you’ll have a ready quilt block. The front and back will look equally fine due to the identical threads.


    Original text by Irina Lisitsa

    Embroidery techniques: Sewing a pumpkin-shaped pincushion

    Embroidery techniques: Sewing a pumpkin-shaped pincushion
    Internet has an endless supply of ideas. For a long time I’ve been creating round pincushions, simple and artless. And then I suddenly read that by tying it up with a cord, you can turn a round pincushion into a sort of pumpkin. And so cute it seemed to me that I’ve only been using the pumpkin pincushion in my work ever since. Besides, people now only ask pumpkin-shaped pincushions for presents.

    Sewing a pumpkin-shaped pincushion. Materials
    Sole-colored cotton Tearaway adhesive stabilizer Upper thread Underthread Scissors Decorative button or bead Cord or mouline threads Batting (wool, polyester, quilting cotton) Machine embroidery design Sewing a pumpkin-shaped pincushion. The making process
    If you have bought a design in the store or created it by yourself, hoop the fabric and hit the start button. I secured cotton with a tearaway adhesive stabilizer (it is my favorite–so easy to work with).

    You’ll need to stitch the design twice. You can make the sides identical or use two different color schemes. You can also spare the flowers and only embroider the circle on the lower side. The bottom half can do without the embroidery.

    When the embroidery is finished, remove the stabilizer and cut the upper and lower panels along the stitching, leaving seam allowance. Sew them together by hand, like biscornu, catching the back stitches with your needle. When only a small gap is left, stuff your pincushion through it.

    You can cover the stitching between the two halves of the pincushion with a cord, carefully sewing it along.
    Near the end, insert a cord or several mouline strands into the eye of a needle and wrap it around the pincushion. I usually divide mine pincushions into 8 parts. You can do less or more, whichever suits you best. Having done that, pass your needle through the center of the pincushion and fix the thread on both sides. To disguise the knot, cover it with a decorative button.

    Done! The actual making and assembling takes much less time than you may think from the description. Try it! You’ll definitely make it.



    Original text by Mary Stratan

    Embroidering a pocket: Kitteh

    Embroidering a pocket: Kitteh
    This adorable and perky kitteh captivated me the moment I’ve seen the design. Lisa Prass, who created it, suggested giving some volume to this cutie. Read on to know what became of it.
    For a long time, I've had a soft spot for felines. When I was a child, I used to bring home kittens in my pockets, and they peeked out just like the one does in the design, which I instantly named KitteH.
    The embroidery took very little of my time. For it, I needed the design rendered in the Photostitch technique, an embroidery machine, a pair of jeans with pockets (a pocket flap, too, fell victim to the Kitteh’s charms and was pitilessly ripped off), embroidery threads, and, of course, the cheerful mood.
    First of all, I ripped off the pocket flap; in case your jeans come without one, skip this. After that, I undid the seam (the ordinary, not the decorative one). It was the inner seam in my case.

    I conceived my Kitteh puffy, and now was time to think how to add the volume. Having discussed the matter with the creator, I decided to embroider the cute kitten’s paw separately.
    I embroidered the paw on organza stabilized with the solvent stab and understood that it was too soft.
    Having tried several options, I finally chose the three-layer “sandwich” that consisted of a solvent stabilizer, fine mesh fabric, and organza as my base fabric.



    The embroidery took about 15 minutes. While the machine was going, I had time for a cup of coffee. That’s why I love machine embroidery: the machine is doing the work while I rest :-) 

    Having stitched the paw, I trimmed it close to the stitching, washed out the stabilizer under the tap, and finished the organza edges with a lighter. The paw was ready!
    Now was the time to embroider the rest of my kitteh.
    I hooped the tearaway stabilizer. I should note that denim is quite stable as it is, so I don't reinforce it with adhesive stabilizers as a rule. With a temporary spray adhesive, I glued my denim piece to the stab and pinned it for better security.


    Using a layout grid and the machine’s display, I aligned the design to the pocket entrance. I checked the hooping accuracy with an outline, marking the place where the paw would go.



    Then I changed the thread color and stitched the paw to the main part.



    After that, the kitteh’s body and head were embroidered.



    All done. Some time, a good mood and an embroidery machine were all it took.

    Easy stitching to you all and have a good day!

    Original text by Irina Lisitsa
    Design available here 
     

    Felt bag decorated with machine embroidery

    Felt bag decorated with machine embroidery
    Felt is a wonderful fabric. You can decorate items with it or use it for sewing bags. I sewed this bag without a ready pattern or complicated calculations, by the eye. My pattern consisted of three rectangular panels and two stripes, cut out of felt. The bag was embellished with machine embroidery and decorative trim. A tip: you can choose any other machine embroidery design from our shop and make your bag look casual or romantic.

    Felt bag decorated with machine embroidery. Materials
    Decorative felt Bright cotton fabric Tearaway nonadhesive stabilizer Water-soluble stabilizer (film) Upper thread Underthread Machine embroidery design Embroidery or sewing and embroidery machine Embroidery machine hoop and template Felt bag decorated with machine embroidery. Embroidery process
    Out of felt, cut a rectangle size 18 x 22 cm. This will make a panel for your future bag. You’ll need three such panels. Two of them will make the bag, and the third will become a flap cover.


    Hoop the cutaway nonadhesive stabilizer, sprinkle it with a temporary spray adhesive and press the felt to it. Cover the felt with a piece of water-soluble film. In the embroidery editor, add a basting stitch outline to the design. 
    Load the design into your embroidery machine and hit the start button.


    I used a common polyester thread; though it is not recommended for machine embroidery as a rule, you can use it in some cases. After you've used cotton or polyester threads, clean the shuttle thoroughly.



    Change the thread colors in accordance with the chart.


    Felt bag decorated with machine embroidery: sewing
    Before joining the panels, remove the water-soluble stabilizer: it will tear easily after the embroidery. Round the corners of the two panels constitute the bag. Round the corners of the panel intended for the flap. Finish the edge with decorative trim.


    Cut out a strip of fabric 4 cm wide to make a strap for your bag. Adorn it with a strip of fabric or decorative trim. Out of the fabric, cut out the lining. Turn in the seam allowance on the edges and baste.


    Attach the two parts of a magnetic clasp to the front side of the bag and the flap. Lay the lining and the flap together with their wrong sides facing each other and tack them down in order to avoid shifting during stitching.



    You may sew from the front or the back. When joining the panels, use a hemmer foot or an omni-purpose foot. Stitch your flap to the back side of the bag.



    Cut out a strip 6 cm wide for the side. Stitch this strip first to the back side of the bag, then to the front. Before sewing the felt panels, baste them first.



    Your felt bag decorated with machine embroidery is ready!



    Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  • Free machine embroidery designs

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  • Embroidery Blog Entries

    • By Mario Tovar in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         0
      Printing of labels requires that materials be of the right label and the one that suits the customers and specification. The materials need to have long-lasting and quality prints, with amazing number of colors you need and with the right layout or barcodes. There are numerous number of ways in which labels can be produced, some of which require great equipment although others are just easy, reliable and very convenient to use. These methods or technologies include;
      DIRECT TO GARMENT PRINTER.
      It involves printing on textiles using a certain amazing technology of using ink jet. The DTG printers hold the clothes at a constant position, the specialized ink jets smear the ink on the garment using the print heads, and they directly absorbed by the fibers in the garment.
      It generally used in printing of T-shirts, canvases, bags among others. The most attractive features about the direct to garment printer is its incredible features which include high quality printing which actually requires low cost per print, its vast24 by 16 printing area and eventually its removable platen system. These features ensure that this printer stands out from the others and hence preferred by most people.
      DIRECT GARMENT INK.
      It offers an exclusive simplicity of the fixation process and an eco-friendly way of printing on natural fibers. These inks are largely suited to fabric materials and they are mostly used in printing of garments.DTG Ink is made in such a way that it can highly improve performance on fabrics and its associated blends. These inks can bring about fantastic results especially due to their color strength. This in turn will bring about excellent results of the DTG printer.
      Before the process of printing begins, the garments should coat with a pre-treatment liquid with the sole purpose of enhancing color reproduction so that the color can appear on top of the fabric.
      KEY FEATURES OF DTG INK.
      The color strength is high. The jet ability is reliable and accurate. Clog free print heads. Great print head performance. One of the key things to note is that DTG Ink is not applicable on all types of fabrics. It mostly recommended on cotton, polyester, poly-cotton, cotton blends, jute and viscose. GAMUT PLUS INK.
      These are designed to bring about exclusive results on polyester and cotton fabrics. They work in a way that ensures that the brightness after washing are retained which result in less waste and also helps you in retaining your customers. One interesting feature about the gamut plus ink is that it ensures optimal production. This is brought about by the fact that the gamut plus ink is made to’’ set’’ faster meaning that there is no need to wait for the white ink to set before printing since one can easily take advantage of the pass modes which are on the printer.
      ADVANTAGES.
      It is more reliable since ink flows better in the printer. It uses an advanced technology. It is very compatible since it can be used on any direct to garment using Epson(R)DX5, DX7 printer heads. REATREAT MACHINE FOR DTG PRINTERS.
      It allows for faster cleanup, which means that the quality of the prints will be highly improved, and hence production increases.
    • By LPT in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         2
      Hi all!  Hoping for help. I’m doing a cap. Six letters offset to the left side on the cap. The beginning of the word is 1/8” lower than the last letter. It’s sewing uphill. How do I get the last letter flush with the first?


    • By duferk2 in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         4
      hello, i have machine Brother pro 1050X. i have problem Embroidery pattern does not sew out correctly. look photo. how fix this problem? thanks
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