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  • Making lace on the edge of the napkin using embroidery.

    Embroidered napkins are the classic decoration of a modern house. They easily fit into the interior of any living room or kitchen. If you have an embroidery machine and free time, you can make it yourself. It is needed sometimes to process the edge of a fabric beautifully.
    There are a lot of creative methods to do this and we will consider one in the master-class: lace making on the edge of a items. One may decorate a dining cotton napkin, a handkerchief or any other items this way. There is a plenty of machine embroidery designs in FSL technique, choose the one you prefer for your items. Such patterns can be easily found in our embroidery design library.
    Materials which you need for work:  
    Water soluble machine embroidery stabilizer (interlining). Our recommendation Avalon. Adhesive spray of a temporary fixation Sulky or GUNOLD KK100 Top thread for machine embroidery (any brand) - we using Robison Anton Lower thread for machine embroidery or bobbins Fabric for the napkin Processing of lace on the edge of a embroidered item:
    Fix the water soluble stabilizer in the hoop. Download the embroidery design to the your machine (or save to USB stick or special memory card). Start the embroidery processing. The first stitching would mark where to layout the edge of the tissue on the stabilizer.



    Apply a layer of the adhesive spray on the stabilizer. Glue the tissue by markup and repeat the stitching of the first thread color, this would fix the tissue on the stabilizer. Then keep on embroidering the lace part of the napkin.



    The embroidery would be on the edge and on the corner, if you combined the machine embroidery design in a special editing software (My Editor, Embird, Brother Pe-DEsign, Wilcom TrueSizer, Buzz Tools and etc.). The processing of the other parts of the napkin would be repeated with connection. Fix the water soluble stabilizer in the hoop again and embroider the first color of the pattern. Fasten the second corner of the napkin on the stabilizer.



    Repeat the process of embroidering the design on the edge round the napkin.



    Cut off the stabilizer close to the edge of the embroidery. Rinse the embroidered napkin with the lace edge in plenty of warm water at the end of work.



    Napkin ready. In the same way you can arrange a tablecloth or a handkerchief.

    Tearaway adhesive stabilizer

    Tearaway adhesive stabilizers are used for the embroidery designs on various fabrics. The main goal of a sticky stabilizer is the prevention of puckering; it is, perhaps, its only goal if you don’t count the ones that rampant imagination can conjure. Adhesive stabilizers vary in weight. The most lightweight stabilizers are intended for delicate fabrics (batiste, sateen, satin). Heavier stabilizers are used when working with such fabrics as drape cloth, linen, denim, etc.
    Tearaway adhesive stabilizer
    You can purchase black and white stabilizers in world As I’ve already said, they vary in weight: the higher the weight, the thicker and stronger the stabilizer. Stabilizers are similar to paper made from pressed fibers, they have one coarse and one smooth side covered with a layer of glue. The only difference between sticky and non-sticky stabilizers is the adhesive layer. It allows gluing fabric to the stabilizer with the help of an iron and nothing else.
    Weight is the main property of a stabilizer. It is measured in grams per m2. The greater the number, the denser the stabilizer. The figure may vary from 25 to 130 g/m2. The lightweight stabilizers are used with thin and delicate fabrics, whereas heavyweight stabilizers – with dense and thick ones.
    Composition: 50-70% cellulose and 25-30% synthetic fibers, also 100% rayon or 100% polyester.
    Stabilizers are often sold without any marking, and newbies get puzzled trying to figure out whether it is good for the fabric they've chosen or not. It is very easy to define stabilizer density by touch. Feel the material and take a cue from that. The stabilizer should not be much denser than your chosen fabric, otherwise, you’ll get a thick patch on the thin fabric.
    When buying an adhesive stabilizer, try and learn who produced it, how it is marked and what fabrics it is intended for. In case it's difficult for you to remember a wide variety of stabilizers, create a supplementary sheet for every one you own, fill in all the relevant information and attach a sample. This will help you to distinguish among the different types of stabilizers.
    Usage embroidery stabilizer.
    Sticky stabilizers are used when there is a high possibility of puckering during the embroidery, and no hooping restrictions apply.
    In order to attach the stabilizer, place the fabric with its wrong side facing up, and put the stabilizer on top of it with its sticky side facing fabric. With a hot iron glue the stabilizer to it. Hoop the “sandwich” with the right side of the fabric facing upward.

    After the embroidery is completed, carefully tear away the stabilizer along the edges. Tearaway adhesive stabilizers are also noted for being easy to remove from the wrong side of the fabric after the work has been completed.

    If the stabilizer does not tear, it is not a tearaway, but a cutaway. A tearaway adhesive stabilizer should tear easily in all directions. When purchasing a stabilizer, give preference to those that tear more easily. They will make your job easier.
    It’s better not to use tearaway adhesive stabilizers when doing Walk Stitch or Run Stitch because they are hard to remove from the wrong side. If, for one reason or another, you had to use a stabilizer, tear it away gently on completion, so as not to damage the stitch lines.
    Storage rules.
    Store the carefully folded stabilizers in a plastic bag where the sun cannot reach them. Bear in mind that the stabilizer’s adhesive layer may deteriorate in the course of time, and therefore, do not buy the three years supply. Keep to the minimum. Try not to crease the stabilizer, because this will damage its adhesive properties.
     

    Embroidery sewing: joining together two fabrics with the embroidery

    Creating bed linen, tablecloths, napkins, even garments, you may need to sew two different pieces of fabric together. This masterclass shows how to do that with the help of the embroidery. It also shows how to decorate a seam with an array of flowers. As the result, you'll get two pieces of fabric stitched together, and the seam will be hidden away. In this masterclass, we join two pieces with curved borders. If you want to stitch pieces with even borders, you'll need another design for that. 

    Embroidery sewing. Materials: 
    1. Tear-away non-adhesive stabilizer 
    2. Temporary spray adhesive 
    3. Upper thread 
    4. Underthread 
    5. Machine embroidery design 
    6. Two pieces of fabric of different colors 
    The process of embroidery sewing goes like this: 
    Hoop the cutaway non-adhesive stabilizer. Insert your hoop into the machine and stitch the outline. Add a layer of spray adhesive onto the stabilizer. Press a piece of the light-colored fabric in the center of the hoop area. 

    Change the thread color and stitch the outline again. Cut the fabric close to the stitched line. Place the second piece of fabric, a dark one, on top of the first. Position it in such a way that it covers the outline with 1 cm margin. Embroider the third outline. Now cut the dark fabric. 

    Insert your hoop back into the machine and embroider the design. The closely spaced elements will hide the seam. 
    This is how the ready embroidery looks like, front and back: 

    Remove the tear-away stabilizer from the back of the fabric. Iron the embroidery from the wrong side. Carefully use steam in order to prevent puckering and waves. The embroidery is ready! 

    Make your own bias binding

    Make your own bias binding
    When sewing a garment, every little detail counts. However, it often happens that the most important one is missing. What if you need a bias binding, and the nearby craft shop has all the wrong colors? In that case, you can create your own bias binding. Read this article to learn how to make the binding of the right size, what tools to use and how to sew bias binding on the garment.
    Bias binding. Tools
    There are all kinds of tools for making bias binding that come in a variety of shapes; you can buy it in a specialty store. The number on a tool shows the width of bias binding with the folded edges. The double binding is two times narrower after being sewn on the edge of the garment.

    Bias binding. Tool size
    6 mm—for the “textile mosaic” technique, which is used for decoration of dresses, shirts and so on.
    12 mm—narrow bias binding, the width on a garment only 0.6 cm. It is cut from lightweight fabrics. Neck holes and armholes of the dresses/tunics, seams of the “high-class” garments, buttonholes on trousers and skirts.

    18 mm—a good edge finishing for the garments or homemade textiles. It is, perhaps, the most common size, for you see it in the stores most often. This kind of binding is 0.9 cm wide when sewn.
    25 mm—mostly for home textiles, table linen, kid’s clothes, such as bibs, pinafores, etc.
    50 mm—almost a cording. It is used in the same way as 25 mm binding.


    The template should be exactly two times wider than the ready binding.
    For example, If you want 12 mm binding, you should cut a 12*2 = 24 mm tape.
    Align your fabric with the weft thread and the crosswise grain of the fabric (the one that runs along the selvage). Trim the selvage. Use a triangle ruler or a quilting ruler or fold the fabric at a 45° angle.



    Bias binding. Sewing the strips into one continuous tape
    Set the quilting foot with a blade on your machine, and select the straight stitch with the needle in a center position.


    Place the ends of the strips one over another with a 7 mm overlap, right sides together. The overlap is there for the stitching line that will join the strips. Stitch back and forth a few times at the beginning and the end.



    After sewing, press the seams open and flat. Trim the “dog ears”.


    Bias binding. Shaping
    Cut your binding on the bias; it will be easier to insert it into the bias binding maker this way. Feed the strip into the wide end of the maker and pull it out of the narrow one. You may poke it with a needle if the fabric is of a heavier kind.


    The strip of fabric will come out with folded edges. All you’ll need is to press them with an iron.


    Bias binding. Sewing
    The methods of attaching bias binding to the garment are aplenty. There are feet designed specifically for the purpose, which can be used in a variety of ways. We described one of them in our previous articles:
     Original text by Irina Lisitsa
     
  • Free machine embroidery designs

  • Blog Entries

    • By Travis in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         0
      The present focused market calls for imaginative ways to deal with advancement of custom embroidery services. From imaginative introductions to simple to-explore online web stores to stunning IT administration frameworks, we give our clients the ability to broaden their corporate marking activities and surpass their showcasing objectives. Also, our far reaching request preparing and satisfaction administrations enable them to stay concentrated on their center business while our turnkey operation deals with the difficulties of the advancements and satisfaction business.
      Considering your alternatives for custom attire, embroidered clothing conveys a fundamental feeling of value that addresses the intuitive of customers and clients, giving a sentiment trust and fulfillment.
      Advantages of custom embroidery:
      It gives you a professional appearance. It can be put on a wide assortment of materials. It lasts longer (doesn't wear off like silkscreen paint does). It can be washed easily. Large amount of shades are accessible in it. Some typical examples of custom embroidery embroider clothing are:
      Hoodies – flexible for a scope of icy climate outside work. Sweatshirts – like hoodies, a sweatshirt is extraordinary to keeping warm and agreeable. Fleeces– Zipped fleeces are a decent hindrance against unforgiving conditions. Shorts – In summer, shorts for men and ladies are accessible to keep cool. Action Trousers – A more down to earth and hard wearing other option to brilliant pants. Body warmers – Another extraordinary expansion to icy climate work.




    • By Embroidery Bucket in Machine embroidery, digitizing, news, ideas help
         4
      Embroidery Digitizing is a method to decorate the overall look of the design or material. The methodology starts when the art-piece is turned into a digital format and then the compatible software works on it to enhance the visibility and corporate image. After that, the design is read by the embroidery machine, turned into the graphic format and in the end; the machine embroiders the artwork efficiently. The techniques and methods take whole lot of efforts and expertise to get the job properly done.
      Now comes the question that in which category, does Embroidery Digitizing go to? Well, the simple answer is that it is a mix of both as only one characteristic between these two cannot be used to describe it. As technical as it looks, embroidery digitizing is basically an art as well.
      Embroidery Digitizing as Art:
      This embroidery method is all about understanding and learning about how the artwork is going to be designed and what should be the color combination. The look of “natural flair” is always taken as the priority because just like every art, beauty only shows when the product gives away natural flair. Along with that, the artistic touch and sense are also required when several things are decided, such as the patterns, vectorization and the decision of filling the blank spaces. The appropriate coordination of colors and shades is also important as well.
      Digitizing for embroidery is a kind of art procedure that definitely demands loads of things in terms of expertise of engineering, energy, motivation, material and performing the art in right direction. If it would be all about technical know-how, then it is not important at all to make so much effort to providing the best color schemes and making the designs look natural, which is the basic portion of embroidery digitizing.
      Embroidery Digitizing As Technical Skill:
      Along with being an art, it is a technical skill mainly because of the usage of the digitizing software, which is the most important part of the method. While making the use of the software, the optimum utilization of other tools is also of real importance so to ensure other factors, such as to make a correct number of stitches and not make them too dense etc. All of such considerations definitely need technological skills and understanding. There are times when the exact size and shape is needed, but not provided so the critical skill set is also required there to make sure that the design is made into the right size.
      So now you understand that embroidery digitizing is basically a combination of both art and technology that blend together to provide the high-quality embroidery experience to you & your clients. As stated above, it is both the art and the skill, so if you want any of your art piece embroidered and digitized, make sure that is gets done professionally by the service providers who are already the experts of this business. This work only looks good when it is done in excellence, which can only be achieved if the practitioners stay in business for quite a while.

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