Original text by: Marina Belova
I have once written a guide to all sorts of embroidery stabilizers (fusible interfacing materials) for manual embroidery. As we all know, the market is full of such auxiliary materials, which can be helpful to an embroiderer. Nevertheless, in these days I often think that not all of them are useful for me in my day-to-day work.
In the past I used to buy a lot of stabilizers of various brands, to see if they could be really helpful. I liked some of them and disliked the others; there were also certain products that I didn't know how and where to use even after having read the manual. In the course of time, after I gained some experience, it turned out that 3 or 4 types of stabilizer were sufficient for me to make a good embroidery. They really are enough for everything I embroider lately.
I'll show you what stabilizers I use for all routine projects and all types of fabric. I must specify though that the projects I do are rather simple: standard promotional designs on knitwear, terry cloth, occasionally caps, also ordinary materials like diagonal, coarse calico, two-thread cloth, sometimes the materials used in interior design, fore example silks and velvets of varying quality.
So, here's my basic embroidery stabilizer kit:
1. Heavy-weight cutaway stabilizer (I wouldn't call it tearaway, like most of the sellers, because it doesn't tear that good), made in China. Density circa 60 g/m2. This stabilizer has a strongly pronounced fiber orientation, which isn't always good. Works fine for knitwear. Here it is:
2. Medium weight cutaway stabilizer (some consider it tearaway) made in China or Turkey, density 35-40 g/m2. In my kit there is a cutaway stabilizer of 2 different brands, with and without fiber orientation (the last is my personal favorite). I use them for medium-level projects and ordinary textiles.
Photo: an example of a stabilizer with single fiber orientation:
And this is the one without any orientation:
3. A tearaway paper-like stabilizer, density circa 60 g/m2. It resembles recycled paper because it looks just as specked and non-uniform. I also have a punched-out variation of this paper, which also tears away easily. As it turned out, it comes in very handy when embroidering a design on terry cloth. But this paper-like stabilizer (and not only this one), as experience has shown, may be replaced by ordinary printing paper, which I sometimes do when it fits the size of design.
I rarely use other types of stabilizers, and usually as supplementary ones.
4. Thin water soluble film — a stabilizer topping for pile textiles, prevents the problem with pile piercing through the stitches. Nevertheless, I rarely use this film, too, but instead replace it with a stretch wrap or a plastic bag. I tested all the these materials in order to find a substitution for the expensive water soluble stabilizers, as I have already written.
Water soluble stabilizers are used for lace and cutwork.
There are also other types of auxiliary materials I use from time to time:
Temporary spray adhesive
Paper adhesive tape
Double-sided adhesive tape
And that's all there is to it. I don't keep a large variety of stabilizers. No spunbond, no heat away backing, no sticky backing paper-like filmoplast or other sticky embroidery stabilizers — I don't buy or use any of those. And even if I did buy some of them in the past, it was only for the purpose of examining them, because all these stabilizers can be replaced by their less expensive analogs. You can' have them all. Besides, if you embroidered on velvet using filmoplast as a stabilizer, it would turn out a real disaster, because filmoplast has a habit of taking the pile out, and it peels off easily, too. You have to be extremely careful with the projects that require a great number of stitches. Double-sided adhesive tape also tends to peel off the fabric.
Sometimes I think that everything new that pops up on the market is made with one goal in sight, and that is to induce customers to buy more and more materials. This happens because stabilizers become more and more differentiated, and not because they work better. It seems to me that the resulting embroidery is not always in connection with the price of a stabilizer and the innovations used in its making. What it depends upon is the quality of the design and the accuracy of hooping. Generally speaking, the resulting embroidery will be in strong connection with your experience in design making as well as handling different types of fabric and the embroidery machine.
Remember the general rule: the thinner the fabric, the thicker the stabilizer, however strange it might seem. You will get very soft lace using thermogaze, but it leaves residue which does not come off easily.
What stabilizers do you use in your work?
In some areas of leisure you will find niche markets, I have found one being able to make custom carpets for custom cars and sport fishing boats. So if you live near the water this is something you may want to offer, or if you have any car clubs in your areas. First you need to make a sample and bring it to car shows etc, or display it at your local dealers.
Hi have done mats like the like the item Below, this was actually done for a young kids room.. As it was not going to be exposed to elements I was able to use some applique in the embroidery design.
I have made over 20 specialized customer carpet sets for sport boats , custom cars and some other client that like items on carpets. I am also trying to break into the yacht market and embroider on carpets and seat covers.
This is a niche market and I don't normally have standard pricing as you have to run your embroidery machine a lot slower it will take you twice as long to sew the designs, you will also go through more needles as once your done the job the needle are basically garbage, I would also recommend cleaning your embroidery machine between jobs the carpets give a fine dust that will get into the bobbin area when sewing. I have a small compressor right by the machine for blowing of the parts and lubricating. Most of my sets of carpets for a car go $250 to $400 and only quote on carpets for the trunk, I did one custom van and I had 5 carpets to do and I charge the customer $1200 for the job.
When embroidering on carpets, you should be aware that conventional hoops will not be able hoop a carpet & that your embroidery machines arms will not support the weight on its own. I would recommend if you have a table raise it up to support the carpet. I use large clamps metal clamps to clamp it to the bottom sides of the embroidery machine arms, I found if you clamp it to the top it will stress the needle too much.
I also recommend the following tips for sewing on carpets.
Use a 80/12 Titanium needle with a sharp point as regular needles will get dull from punching through the carpet backing.
All designs must be digitized for carpets as there are special requirements for the embroidery designs .
Slow your machine down to a minimum of 400 rpm
If its a Plush carpet please use topping this will prevent the presser foot from catching the nap of the carpet and or pulling out a strand or fiber of the carpet.
Shave the outer edge of the carpet to prevent the nap from folding over the designs makes it look cleaner I use a Peggy stitch eraser
If you want to sew you will either need to have the embroidery design made for carpets, keep in mind that you may run into problems if the embroidery design is not made properly.
I purchased a used Merro embroidery machine to make custom carpets to fit the application and allows you to purchase bulk carpet for the application, If you have to purchase carpets that are customer made for the vehicle you will have to get in contact with the vendor.
Another options is to sew through the rubber backing however doing this requires a great deal of patients and often frustrate you more than not however it can be done, If you consider attempting this you will need to use 110 needle and 40 weight polyester thread and slow your machine down. In addition between carpets check for needle damage and clean the needles blow of the dust from the embroidery machine. You also will need a industrial sewing machine for this option.
Remember anything is possible however there is a learning curve when venturing into new areas.
Original text by: Marina Belova
One would think that evaluating of tension of the thread is such an old chestnut. But no, last week it came as a revelation to me. It is strange that such an essential information is practically non-existent on the internet, whereas manuals only contain the instructions on how to do the most basic things. And it is such a shame, really.
So, everybody knows (including me) that after the embroidery has been completed, the backside of a perfect satin-stitch column should look like this: 1/3+1/3+1/3 (upper + under + upper). If the column is divided differently, it means that you need to adjust your upper thread tension or the under-thread tension on your bobbin case.
I shall be honest with you, I don't see this ideal picture often, certainly not all the time. Velles 15 is notorious for getting the thread tension wrong, of which I've written many times, and was supported by the others. But there is a problem with the dial itself, which is pretty crude and, consequently, lacks the possibilities the Velles 19 dial has. But no matter how the dial was made, you have to adjust it all the time.
The question is, how do you do it? Sometimes it's quite difficult a task to adjust it properly.
As it happens, you have to act wisely.
First of all, I'll show you the most typical occasion which happens all the time when I use my Velles 15, and which has always puzzled me. These are my real works, not the test pieces:
As it turns out, this irregular outcome of the bobbin thread is a mark that something is wrong with a bobbin case. Is it either bent or damaged.
To check this just lay the bobbin case with the bobbin inside onto the table or any other flat surface with bobbin facing down. Then pull at the thread, holding the case slightly and allowing the bobbin to uncoil freely. It the thread is not uncoiled smoothly, but jerkily, it is the sign that the bobbin case has been damaged, so that it is not round anymore. Most likely, it was dropped on the floor in the past. I have dropped it, of course, even more that once, but I never thought about the consequences.
To cut the long story short, you must have a spare bobbin case. Sometimes the jerking like that cannot be corrected in any other way.
And now I'll tell you about two of the most typical examples.
a. The under-thread is just barely visible on the underside or not visible at all:
In this case you will have to find time to run your machine through all those tension tests at least once to find out what happens with every one of your needles. Here you can also see the perfectly emblematic old photo of the old I-test from the times when I already had huge problems with a bobbin case.
It turned out, to my surprise, that there are two ways of adjustment in this situation (this nuance of evaluation of the test results is hardly mentioned at all):
• If such is the situation with all or nearly all of your needles, loosen the under-thread tension.
• But if this happens only with 2 or 3 needles, tighten the upper thread on them.
b. The under-thread on the underside is more than 1/3 column wide):
Again, run your machine through all the tests using every needle and see. And again you can get two different results:
• If such is the result produced by all the needles, tighten the under-thread tension.
• If you get it only with 2 or 3, loosen the upper thread.
That is basically all. I didn't know that it was so easy and used to regard thread tension tests with disdain. One should love their embroidery machine and care about it, so that it could reciprocate and minimize the number of unpleasant moment in the course of embroidery.
We have so much yet to learn.
P.S. A thought just popped in my head: what about single-thread embroidery machines that don't have a lot of needles, which can help you to compare their performance and understand what tension needs to be adjusted? How do you adjust the tension there?
Some of my readers suggest buying a special device that helps to adjust upper and under-thread tension. And what do you think?
The present focused market calls for imaginative ways to deal with advancement of custom embroidery services. From imaginative introductions to simple to-explore online web stores to stunning IT administration frameworks, we give our clients the ability to broaden their corporate marking activities and surpass their showcasing objectives. Also, our far reaching request preparing and satisfaction administrations enable them to stay concentrated on their center business while our turnkey operation deals with the difficulties of the advancements and satisfaction business.
Considering your alternatives for custom attire, embroidered clothing conveys a fundamental feeling of value that addresses the intuitive of customers and clients, giving a sentiment trust and fulfillment.
Advantages of custom embroidery:
It gives you a professional appearance.
It can be put on a wide assortment of materials.
It lasts longer (doesn't wear off like silkscreen paint does).
It can be washed easily.
Large amount of shades are accessible in it.
Some typical examples of custom embroidery embroider clothing are:
Hoodies – flexible for a scope of icy climate outside work.
Sweatshirts – like hoodies, a sweatshirt is extraordinary to keeping warm and agreeable.
Fleeces– Zipped fleeces are a decent hindrance against unforgiving conditions.
Shorts – In summer, shorts for men and ladies are accessible to keep cool.
Action Trousers – A more down to earth and hard wearing other option to brilliant pants.
Body warmers – Another extraordinary expansion to icy climate work.
Question: Have a Brother Se 425 which hoop size is 4 X 4 only and I Can't find under Brother so wanted to know if a 85 x 100 mm (3.35 X 3.94 would work. if so I will buy one of your designs. I,m new at this and I/m trying to get the hang of this. Thank you for your support.
1. First every design have full information about, colors, size and stitches.
2. In your Profile you can choose your embroidery machine https://embroideres.com/profile/edit/
and every time you can see compatible this embroidery design for or no.
All in all, you're taking a gander at getting sewing machine surveys a fresh out of the box new sewing machine? It manages without asserting that obviously, you wish to guarantee that you get the best sewing machine for you - the one that is going to suit your prerequisites.
All things considered, preceding you go on and make your buy, it's a shrewd thought dependably, to do a tiny bit of study furthermore a touch of heart looking to really get clear in your psyche precisely what you require furthermore exactly the amount you expect to contribute.
By taking this tad bit of time and setting in a touch of thought before giving over your hard made bucks, you could help to ensure that you ration yourself from the aggravation of having a machine that does not do what you oblige it to do and the conceivable monetary strain, that can be made later on by over contributing on your fresh out of the plastic new machine. So permit's begin with the two key worries to ask all alone:
To start with - How much would you like to contribute?
This is a really crucial worry to ask all alone preceding gaining your sewing machine, else you may find yourself escaping in a fantasy universe of sewing open doors and also spending route more prominent than you can figure out how to on your fresh out of the plastic new machine, abandoning you fiscally reached out and also lamenting your buy later on - when the happiness regarding your new toy has slowed down. Sewing machine rates can vary from as meager as $30 to $1000's contingent on the limits of the machine.
So pick what is the ideal amount of cash you consent to contribute and afterward find a machine that will unquestionably do precisely what you fancy it to - inside your rate range.
Second - What are you going to utilize your living arrangement sewing hardware for?
Why do you crave a sewing machine? Is it only to heal furthermore repair administrations? It is safe to say that you are thinking about doing somewhat standard sewing? On the other hand, would you say you will do a lot of sewing? Making pieces of clothing, doing knitting or specialties?
On the off chance that you just wish to do some standard sewing or repairing then you'll no doubt require a hardware that does the major lines, for example, straight fasten, crisscross and conceivably a couple substantially more which accompanies an essential presser foot, potentially a zipper foot and additionally a catch opening foot.
An essential machine, for example, this will surely empower you to do repairing, repair function and also some fundamental sewing if that is exactly what you crave.
In any case in case you're considering doing substantially more perplexing sewing employments or utilizing your sewing machine a ton, then it will be justified regardless of your while to get an a great deal more unpredictable machine that has more options coordinated in, for example, an expensive determination of implicit lines, programmed switch holing and included reward offer machines, for example, distinctive particular presser feet that could make testing exercises simple.
There is some exceptionally modernized sewing hardware offered today that simply make life significantly less confounded and make sewing exercises so much faster. Decisions, for example, one activity catch openings, where whatever you do is associate the right presser foot, press the perfect catches furthermore away it goes - the machine does everything for you. Speedily furthermore rapidly.
Different choices, for example, computerized threading that may not seem like a colossal arrangement, however when you're modifying cotton routinely, could be a lifesaver! These sorts of capacities can ration a group of time furthermore make you a lot more productive. In case you're planning on doing a lot of sewing, these sorts of components will empower you to accomplish more in a shorter time which is something to be thought about.
In this way, have a consider exactly what you mean to accomplish with your new machine, the amount you need to contribute and subsequently concentrate on different models to locate the absolute best sewing machine for you!
Embroidery Digitizing is a method to decorate the overall look of the design or material. The methodology starts when the art-piece is turned into a digital format and then the compatible software works on it to enhance the visibility and corporate image. After that, the design is read by the embroidery machine, turned into the graphic format and in the end; the machine embroiders the artwork efficiently. The techniques and methods take whole lot of efforts and expertise to get the job properly done.
Now comes the question that in which category, does Embroidery Digitizing go to? Well, the simple answer is that it is a mix of both as only one characteristic between these two cannot be used to describe it. As technical as it looks, embroidery digitizing is basically an art as well.
Embroidery Digitizing as Art:
This embroidery method is all about understanding and learning about how the artwork is going to be designed and what should be the color combination. The look of “natural flair” is always taken as the priority because just like every art, beauty only shows when the product gives away natural flair. Along with that, the artistic touch and sense are also required when several things are decided, such as the patterns, vectorization and the decision of filling the blank spaces. The appropriate coordination of colors and shades is also important as well.
Digitizing for embroidery is a kind of art procedure that definitely demands loads of things in terms of expertise of engineering, energy, motivation, material and performing the art in right direction. If it would be all about technical know-how, then it is not important at all to make so much effort to providing the best color schemes and making the designs look natural, which is the basic portion of embroidery digitizing.
Embroidery Digitizing As Technical Skill:
Along with being an art, it is a technical skill mainly because of the usage of the digitizing software, which is the most important part of the method. While making the use of the software, the optimum utilization of other tools is also of real importance so to ensure other factors, such as to make a correct number of stitches and not make them too dense etc. All of such considerations definitely need technological skills and understanding. There are times when the exact size and shape is needed, but not provided so the critical skill set is also required there to make sure that the design is made into the right size.
So now you understand that embroidery digitizing is basically a combination of both art and technology that blend together to provide the high-quality embroidery experience to you & your clients. As stated above, it is both the art and the skill, so if you want any of your art piece embroidered and digitized, make sure that is gets done professionally by the service providers who are already the experts of this business. This work only looks good when it is done in excellence, which can only be achieved if the practitioners stay in business for quite a while.
This step by step instruction for free machine embroidery design
Hardanger is based exactly on the same principle as cutwork. Hoop the fabric together with the water-soluble stabilizer.
With the first color, you embroider the outline to mark the area where the holes will be cut. After that, without making a stop (to avoid extra knots), add a zigzag stitch on top of the outline. Having done that, take the hoop off the machine and cut holes in the outlined area, trying not to damage the stabilizer (Image 1).
Second color – a laced net is added in place of the cutouts (Image 2).
Third color – it's recommended to use the thread of a matching color here in order to create a drawn fabric effect (Image 3).
With the fourth and the fifth colors, the design itself is embroidered, ending in a zigzag border. After that, you need to take the hoop off the machine and trim the fabric along the edges of the embroidery without touching the stabilizer (Image 4).
Sixth color – a decorative stitch is stitched along the bottom part of the design (Image 5).
Seventh color – lastly, the lips, nose and cap are embroidered (Image 6).
Question: For some reason this will not completely install and I've tried several times. I'm using windows 10 with 4 core processor and 8 GB of ram and over 400 GB of free space. I have No issues downloading other programs so it must be some sort of problem with the program I believe. I hope someone else can confirm this.
Support answer: Please try the following: 1. Clean up all temp folders. In an explorer’s address bar type %temp% press enter.
Delete all files that are allowed to be deleted.
2. Go to C:\windows\temp Delete all files.
3. Disable you antivirus software and try to make a new installation.
Большинство вышивальных машин и программного обеспечения неправильно отображают цвета на экране. Для того чтобы вы могли выбрать точные или идентичные цвета (мы используем Robison Anton цветовую палитру) к каждому дизайну идут дополнительный графический файл в формате JPG или PDF. Если у вас есть программа Embird (www.embird.net) вы можете увидеть коррктное отображение цветов. Для этого вместе с дизайном загрузите файл цветовой поддержки (наша абревиатура) в формате *.EDR. Тогда просматриваемый файл будет иметь правильный вид.
На представленном ниже изображении мы можем видеть разницу. Слева дизайн использует правильную цветовую таблицу представленную в файле EDR, а справа цвета произвольные подобранные самой программой.
Наличие файла в формате EDR позволяет вам при наличии программного обеспечения самостоятельно получить набор цветов для другой цветовой палитры.
I try embroid a minie file buyed on Embroidery designs collection shop in my new embroidery Brother Innovis-NV800E with hoop 260x160 and the border of pictures and the colours doesn't match.
When I buy the minie file, it was possible download a "winnie the pooh" free file and when also I try embroid pooh file happens the same of minie file
To Embroid I used the pes file, but i also try pec and phc files and happen the sames always.
Exist any problem with the files? or exist any configuration i have wrong on my machine?,
Anyone know what could be the problem?
thanks for the help,
Master-class by: Irina Lisitsa
Dense adhesive water soluble stabilizer is your first helper when it comes to embroidering lace and working with delicate fabrics: chiffon, organza, thin knitwear etc. A new machine embroidery stabilizer Solufix is different from the water soluble stabilizer we know, because of an additional layer of adhesive. It helps working with materials that cannot be hooped and also can be easily removed afterwords. An adhesive layer of Solufix secures the fabric while the embroidery process, and the water soluble part goes off by rinse with a warm water once the embroidery is completed. In this master-class I'll show you how to hoop a water soluble stabilizer Solufix.
Adhesive water soluble stabilizer
Place the hoop onto the stabilizer and mark the outer edges with a little allowance.
Link the marks with the lines.
Cut the stabilizer along the lines you just draw.
Put the stabilizer onto the outer ring of the hoop with the paper layer on top.
Press the stabilizer into the hoop slightly.
Put the inner ring on the top of it and press it inside to secure the stabilizer.
Using your template, mark the edges of your embroidery area.
Take the template off.
Link all the marks together.
With the sharp edge of the scissors cut only the paper layer of your stabilizer.
Remove the paper layer.
Stick your stabilizer onto the fabric.
There can be one or two layers of different size.
Now the fabric is secured with the stabilizer, and you may proceed with your embroidery.
Master-class by: Irina Lisitsa
Beginner owners of embroidery machines are at a loss when overlooking the vast majority of stabilizers. This series of master-classes will teach you the basic rules of hooping of various types of stabilizers. After having read this you will be able to hoop an adhesive stabilizer (Filmoplast) in the right way. This type of stabilizer allows you to secure fabric with a layer of adhesive. Works good for fabrics of high and medium density, and also fabrics that cannot be hooped, like leather, chamois and coated materials.
How to hoop Filmoplast
We will need:
Put the stabilizer with its paper layer facing up. Mark the borders of the hoop.
Cut a piece of stabilizer, using the marking on the paper layer.
Put it on the outer ring with the paper layer facing up.
Put the inner ring onto the stabilizer and press it down.
Pull the edges of the stabilizer to smooth it out. Screw your hoop tightly.
Put the plastic template on the hoop and mark the borders of embroidery area with a marker.
Outline the borders of embroidery area with a marker or use the markings on the stabilizer.
With the sharp end of scissors cut the paper layer along the lines.
Take off the paper layer of stabilizer, to free the sticky side.
Stick your fabric onto it.
Embroider your design.
When the embroidery is completed, take the design off the stabilizer.
Master-class by: Irina Lisitsa
Cutaway non-adhesive stabilizer works very good for embroidery on knitwear. Using this type of stabilizer allows keeping the shape of the embroidered area while the item is in use.
Cutaway non-adhesive stabilizer is used with temporary spray adhesive. This master-class will tell you how to hoop a cutaway non-adhesive stabilizer in the right way.
How the right and wrong side of the item secured with the non-adhesive stabilizer look like. The embroidery was made on the fabric with thin stockinette structure.
Cutaway non-adhesive stabilizer
Temporary spray adhesive
Unscrew your hoop and take the inner part out.
Put a cutaway non-adhesive stabilizer onto the outer ring.
Put the inner ring onto it and press it down to secure the stabilizer.
Pull the edge of a stabilizer so that it is tight in the hoop.
Shake up a tube of spray. Put a layer of spray adhesive onto the stabilizer.
Stick your fabric onto the stabilizer.
Set you hoops in your machine and embroider the design.
After the embroidery is completed, cut stabilizer away near the contour.
The embroidery is ready!
Original text by: Katya Ebber
Your hoop is not one-size-fits-all. You become acutely aware of it when you need to embroider lace ribbons or edgings. This master-class will tell you how to align machine embroidery designs with lace so that the joining places could not be seen. This master-class shows working in the embroidery design software (creation of the alignment crosses), and also the embroidery process.
Preparing the design in Embird
Load a chosen machine embroidery design into Embird. Add the alignment stitches and half stitches at the top and the bottom of the design. Copy and flip them vertically. Having added the alignments stitches, change the order of steps in the embroidery, dragging the objects in the objects bar, and also change their color. The main objects should be located between the top and the bottom alignment stitches.
Click 'Paste' in the toolbar. In the pop-up list choose 'Basting' and define the stitch length. After you click 'OK' the guide stitch will be added to specify the design's position in the hoop.
How to align machine embroidery designs properly
Load the prepared design into your embroidery machine and embroider the first color, according to the chart you added in the software.
Hoop the water soluble stabilizer and embroider the first design (001).
Alignment stitches are embroidered with the last color of the design. They will be used as marks for linking this part of the design with the next.
Having embroidered the first design, trim away the water soluble stabilizer near the embroidery.
Hoop water soluble stabilizer again and embroider first two colors of the design (the guide stitch and the alignment crosses). Remove the hoop from the machine and add a thin layer of spray adhesive. Using a short pin, join the center marks of the alignment crosses on the embroidery parts and on the water soluble stabilizer.
Do the alignment stitches without the thread to check if the hooping went right. If all the crosses and stitches match, begin the embroidery. If the alignment crosses do not match, repeat the alignment process as mentioned above.
This method is good for many items where you need to embroider a repetitive pattern. We have embroidered lace today, but if you need to do the edging of the table cloth or curtain, this method will work just as good. Use tearaway non-adhesive stabilizer for fabrics.
Original text by: Irina Lisitsa
Sometimes when I talk to the beginners or those in the process of choosing their first embroidery or sewing and embroidery machine, they ask me if there is a possibility of embroidering on terry cloth. The answer is: yes, but! You must follow the rules. The stitches of the already embroidered design may sink down and be lost in the pile and the thread or the needle may be tangled when embroidering on high speed. The needle breakage may follow, sometimes it may even spoil the embroidery. There are many useful videos on the internet, and I offer you one of them. It is a step-by-step guide, which will help you to understand hooping and embroidery processes even if you are not familiar with the terms. The master-class was done on a sewing-embroidery machine Brother Innov-is V7.
• 180*300 mm hoop
• Upper thread
• Sewing and embroidery marker
• Temporary spray adhesive
• A terry towel size of 250x500 mm and bigger
• Water soluble stabilizer
• Non-adhesive cutaway stabilizer
Embroidery on terry cloth: Tips
When choosing a design for terry cloth, densely filled ones are preferable. The designs created with straight stitches may be lost in the high pile of the fabric right after the first wash.
Water soluble stabilizer is used so that the stitches lie flat. It is used as the top stabilizer.
Water soluble stabilizer comes as the film of varying density. I used dense water soluble film in my master-class, but don't hesitate to use a thin one. After the embroidery is completed, it can be removed more quickly and easily.
Use a cutaway or a tearaway non-adhesive stabilizer as the underlay. Tearaway stabilizer is better, because it can be removed more quickly after the completion of the embroidery.
Use printed templates to specify where your design will be placed. You can print your template with the help of PE Design.
Embroidery on terry cloth: First option
1. Using the printed template, mark the center of the embroidery on the towel.
2. Add a layer of spray adhesive on the tearaway non-adhesive stabilizer.
3. Stick your terry towel onto stabilizer.
4. Put a layer of the water soluble stabilizer on top of it.
5. Hoop this 'sandwich', aligning them so that the center mark on the stabilizer is right on top of the center mark on the towel.
6. Screw it tightly.
7. Set you hoop into your machine.
8. Load a machine embroidery design from USB-flash or choose the design from the memory of the sewing-embroidery machine.
9. Embroider your design.
10. After embroidery is completed, remove the 'sandwich' from the hoop.
11. Cut or tear away you underlay.
12. Holding the material in place with your hand, tear the stabilizer away.
13. To remove the stabilizer between the objects saturate a sponge with water and give a dab. You can wash the ready embroidered item by hand.
Embroidery on terry cloth: Second option
1. Using the printed template, mark the center of the embroidery on the towel.
2. Add a layer of spray adhesive on tearaway non-adhesive stabilizer.
3. Hoop your stabilizer and screw tightly.
4. Stick your terry towel onto the stabilizer.
5. Put the water soluble stabilizer on top of it.
6. Secure the towel and water soluble stabilizer with pins.
7. Set you hoop into your machine and embroider the design.
8. After the embroidery is completed, remove the top stabilizer and the underlay.
See the video here.
Original text by: Nata Beloshveika
Many of you have received big orders for t-shirts embroidered with logos. Sometimes rehooping takes more time than the embroidery process itself. I mean, the embroidery has to be in the same place on all items, if possible.
So what do we do? Should we do the measuring and marking every time? But it is quite a laborious task, and boring, too.
A solution exists! I want to show you my way of doing it.
Embroidery on t-shirts. Materials and tools:
A machine embroidery design
Double-sided adhesive tape
Embroidery stabilizer (Filmoplast)
A ruler or a triangular
Tailor's chalk, design knife, scissors
Embroidery on t-shirts. The making process:
I create all my designs by myself.
Previous to the beginning of the embroidery I run a guide stitch 5-7 mm away from the contour. Hoop one layer of printing paper. Run the guide stitch without a thread. Carefully cut out a window in the paper along the stitches with the knife. Stick a double-sided adhesive tape around the perimeter of the window. Take off the first layer of adhesive.
Now I'm going to mark out the placement of my future embroidery on the first t-shirt. To do this I measure the front side and mark the bottom left corner of the design with the chalk.
Onto the marked t-shirt I put a layer of printing paper in order to create a template for hooping other t-shirts. I draw all the necessary outlines there — neck hole, shoulders, arm-holes (for small size t-shirts, because the L-size ones will not fit into the A4 format), central line or placket line for a polo shirt. Also I mark the left corner of my future design with the cross.
Then I put the hoop on top of it, so that the cross on my template would be exactly in the lower left corner of the hoop.
This is important!
You should make sure that the hoop lines to the template and the t-shirt — check horizontal and vertical marks (vertical are very handy for checking against the knitwear loops), so that it would not move.
Then I trace the hoop contour (it's better to use a felt pen to make the lines visible of the wrong side of the template) and cut out the template along the construction lines (neck line, middle, arm hole). The template is ready! All of this has been a preparation job. Now we proceed to the hooping.
I cut a piece of filmoplast, so that it would cover all the adhesive tape frame. Stick it onto the adhesive tape, take off the protection layer.
I take the t-shirt inside out and put the template on top of the left (!!!) half of the t-shirt. Then I superimpose the neck hole, the central line and the arm-holes. Put a hoop on top of it (with the layer of adhesive facing down), superimposing the hoop and the template.
Carefully remove the template from under the hoop, so that it would not move. Once again carefully (the hoop must not move in relation to the t-shirt) fold the t-shirt around the hoop — first the sleeves and then the bottom.
Then I turn the whole thing over and stick filmoplast to the t-shirt, smoothing it out with one hand. Carry it to the machine, without turning it right way round.
Having unfolded the hoop on the side where the screw is, I set the hoop into the embroidery machine, smooth out the t-shirt under the foot and turn it the right way round to open the embroidery area.
Now I begin to embroider. After having completed I take off the hoop from the machine and carefully unstick filmoplast from the adhesive tape.
And after that I begin this all over again — stick filmoplast into the hoop, put a template on the t-shirt, stick the hoop to the t-shirt and embroider. All this is done very quickly and the result is of a high quality. I wish you the same!
Original text by: Olga Ionova
This master-class will tell you how to do cutwork embroidery. Cutwork embroidery has its own aspects, and if the design is beyond the hoop so that you have to join its parts together, the amount of the aspects doubles. This master-class will tell you how to do cutwork with alignment and border designs without the special hoop, but with the help of alignment stitches instead.
Cutwork embroidery. Materials:
• Fabric or an item to be embroidered
• Tearaway stabilizer
• Water soluble stabilizer (film)
• Upper thread (white)
• Underthread (white)
Cutwork embroidery. The making process
Prepare your fabric. Iron it and press the tearaway adhesive to the wrong side.
In keeping with the design do the marking. Mark the fabric in accordance with the plastic pattern of your hoop.
Tightly hoop the fabric and the stabilizer. You can add pins, too. Cutwork embroidery design must include several colors, which will mark the places for your machine to stop.
The first color will be a Ran stitch, also zigzag may be added. Having embroidered the first color, stop the machine and take the hoop off.
Marked are the areas that will be cut out. These are always enclosed areas.
Don't unhoop the fabric! It must stay in the hoop.
With the help of scissors cut away the areas inside the objects from the stitching, trying not to damage it. Use the stork embroidery scissors or the ones that were specially designed for cutwork.
Put a layer of thin water soluble stabilizer on top of the fabric and secure it with pins. Set you hoops in your machine run the embroidery with the second color.
The embroidery consists of finishing the open areas with zigzag stitches and later with satin columns, while water soluble stabilizer is used as a substitute for the fabric. It holds the fabric and the cut-away details together.
The order of cutting and finishing depends upon the programmed sequence. The details here should be cut away and embroidered one after the other.
Embroider all the details as was described above.
Embroider all the elements of the design.
Cutwork embroidery. The alignment of the elements
When embroidering borders or repetitive design patterns you have to do the alignment. Therefore, draw the central line while doing the preparations. To get the exact match between the different parts the design must contain the alignment stitches and crosses (dots and lines). In the first part of the embroidery they are embroidered the last. The alignment spots marked violet on the photo.
If you add the alignment crosses by yourself (it can be done in any embroidery software editor), mark them with different color from that of the last part of the design.
You can mark the places where the needle will hit the alignment crosses by moving down the balance wheel, but not perforating the fabric. This works extremely good for leather.
The last part of the embroidery before next may include tacking down the first object of the part that will be hooped next. You can use this stitch as an additional alignment mark.
Cutwork embroidery. Rehooping
Take the embroidered detail out and press it flat, moving the iron carefully up and down. Never use steam!
Hoop the next part of the fabric to be embroidered in accordance with the marking and the hoop pattern.
Set you hoops in your machine and make sure that the first is the color of the alignment crosses. All alignment spots must match! You don't have to embroider them, just move the balance wheel down and see if the needle hits the marks.
After that the embroidery will go as was described above.
Having completed the embroidery, unhoop the fabric. Cut away the excessive water soluble stabilizer on both right and wrong side.
Tear away the tearaway adhesive stabilizer.
Wash the water soluble stabilizer in the warm water until it will go off completely.
Dry the embroidery until it becomes only a bit wet.
Press your embroidery on something soft like a folded terry towel covered with a thin cloth. Press the embroidery flat in up and down motions only! Never move an iron side to side or back and force.
Original text by: unknown
If you are reading this article, it means that your interest for machine embroidery has overcome the beginner stage, and you have decided to master the embroidery software to choose the right one for creating cross stitch patterns. A lot of manufacturers, in order to increase embroidery editor capability, add a software module that allows creating cross stitch patterns and saving them into the formats recognized by the embroidery machines. What are these software products you'll learn from this article.
I want to bring to your attention the fact that in this review I only point out those software products that allow creation of cross stitch patterns for embroidery and sewing and embroidery machines. Also note that you'll find only the widely known software products on this list, for I skipped the lesser known ones.
Creation of the cross stitch patterns
Creating cross stitch patterns for embroidery machines, on one hand, is the easiest of all digitizing tasks, but on the other hand, the most complex one. It depends on the principle of creation: whether a designer will work with ready patterns or create the new designs completely out of his head or using the images (such as photographs) of his own.
Fortune favors a designer that has decided to try and digitize a ready pattern. There is no need to think about such design characteristics as basting, density and pull compensation. There is no need for using imagination to convert a photo into a cross stitch pattern. One just needs to figure out what types of cross stitch there are in hand embroidery, which ones can be created in the software, and after having mastered the tools, to create stitches one by one.
A designer that wants to create cross stitch patterns from images or photos has to face all the problems with color scheme, stitch types and their size. This requires a creative approach and artistic thinking.
To be through with the embroidery software once and for all, you need to understand that it comes in standalone editors and also built-in modules. I don't want to throw my weigh around and influence your decision, and yet I want to make some comments about the usefulness of various software products.
The software for creation cross stitch patterns falls into two main categories:
1. Standalone editors
Of all the software meant for creation of cross stitch patterns and conversion of the files into the format recognized by embroidery machines we can single out two products:
• PatternMaker for CrossStitch
• CrossStitch Professional Platinum
Both of these software products were designed for creating hand embroidery cross stitch patterns, and only later the manufacturer added an option of saving the result in a format recognized by an embroidery machine. Although both of these editors were designed for creating hand embroidery cross stitch patterns and have practically all the tools for creating machine embroidery designs, in my opinion, CrossStitch Professional is slightly superior to PatternMaker. Notably, the latter of the two lacks an option of saving most of the special stitches (cross stitch) into a format recognized by a machine.
Both software products work with scanned patterns as well as process images automatically and create designs with the help of the tools.
2. Additional modules
Nearly all big embroidery editors have additional modules that allows creating cross stitch designs. Sometimes they come as an in-built solution, sometimes you need to buy them separately.
Embird (bought separately) has an automatic conversion tool, and also an option of fitting the scanned patterns into the open documents to make the process of creation more easy. You can also create cross stitch patterns with tools. Conversion of the special stitches is present.
Wilcom ES – has an automatic conversion option, is able to create cross stitch designs from scanned pattern and has tools for object creation. There is also canvas changing option and the possibility to set the stitch count. The capabilities of the software are sufficient for creating cross stitch patterns, but one would wish more operational comfort.
Bernina ES (in-built) — practically the same as Wilcom ES.
Digitizer MBX/Pro (bought separately) — practically the same as Wilcom ES. They cost about $160-200 each.
PE Design (in-bulit) – this software had an automatic conversion option, and you can also work with scanned patterns. Creation of the cross stitch patterns with the help of tools is not the best here.
Compucon EOS — automatically converts images into cross stitch patterns and also has tools for creating objects with cross stitch fill.
Tajima DGML by Pulse (in-built up to v. 14) — starting form the next version there is no automatic conversion tool. The software only has a tool for creating objects with motif fills and also one for creating cross stitch lines.
Which software product to choose for creating cross stitch patters, is entirely up to you!
Original text by: Irina Lisitsa
To demonstrate the process of making an openwork embroidery I chose two-thread french terry, because this type of knitwear is stable, trimming distorts it very little, and therefore, is perfect for this machine embroidery technique. You can do this on any sewing or embroidery equipment. The making process is the same as with openwork and cutwork embroidery on any other fabric. This master-class will help the beginners to understand that embroidery on knitwear is not all that difficult.
• Knitwear fabric (0.3 mm two-thread french terry)
• Tearaway adhesive, either Stiffy 1860B or 1640B
• Water soluble film
• Upper thread
• Machine embroidery design (download or buy one from our shop)
Openwork: The making process
Stick a tearaway adhesive of an appropriate density to the wrong side of your fabric. Hoop the stabilized fabric and turn in the screw.
Embroider the first color of your design (usually it is the stitch, which will outline the future design and mark the areas that will be cut out.
Take the hoop off the machine and make small incisions in the center of an embroidered area, using scissors, a razor blade or a ripper, then cut away the bits of fabric with scissors.
Put a thin layer of a water soluble film on top of the fabric and secure it with pins.
Be careful not to put pins into the embroidery area.
Set you hoop into your machine and continue the embroidery.
After having embroidered the design, remove the stabilizer leftovers from both the right and wrong side of the item. Press the embroidery on the wrong side, on several layers of terry towel, so that the embroidery would preserve its density and not become flat.
Your openwork on knitwear is now ready!
Original text by: unknown
Every embroiderer has been in a situation where an embroidery machine that was running smoothly only a day before, suddenly begins to break the upper or the underthread almost every stitch. Such a problem, in case you eliminate the possibility of mechanical breakage, is connected with certain processes, and also with the quality of the embroidery materials you use in your work. If such a situation occurs, try to solve the problem yourself before calling a service engineer. In this article we tried to describe possible problems and their solutions, ranking from the easiest to the complex ones. Resume the embroidery process after having done this or that, to check if the problem has disappeared.
Why does the thread breakage occur
1. Upper thread
Tension regulation. Check your upper thread tension. Often the reason for the thread breakage may be too tight a tension.
Wrong threading may be the reason for thread breakage, too. In this case rethread your machine in accordance with the manual.
An upper thread of poor quality. If breakage occurred after replacing the upper thread, get back the bobbin you used before that. If breakage stops, buy embroidery threads of some other brand.
Rayon thread. This thread often causes thread breakage trouble for beginners. Threads literally "leap off" the bobbins. This problem is very easily solved. Place a grid on the bobbin case and reduce the embroidery speed.
Metallic thread. When working with this thread use a special grid, set a needle for metallic threads, and also reduce the embroidery speed.
The wrong size of the bobbin. However strange it might seem, such a problem exists. Check your manual to see what type of the bobbin is recommended for your machine.
Wrong winding may become the reason for thread breakage, too. In this case unwind the bobbin and rewind it after that.
Wrong threading. One of the common reasons for thread breakage. Carefully read that section in the manual that describes how to insert the bobbin, and do accordingly.
Thread thickness. One of the well-known reasons for thread breakage. Some of the sewing-embroidery machines just won't work with a very thin bobbin thread. In this case you should get a thicker thread.
All sewing and embroidery threads have their own thickness, determined by the number. The greater the number is, the thinner is the thread, and vise versa. For example: An upper thread #200 is thinner than #30
Glue particles adhere to the thread and the needle, holding back their movement, which causes the thread to break. If that's the case, stop the machine, clean the needle with alcohol, and rethread. Repeat every time your thread breaks until the embroidery will be completed.
After that refrain from using this particular type of adhesive stabilizer or spray adhesive in your work.
On the internet you can find many recommendations on the original use of various materials. You can count the use of double adhesive tape and sewing stabilizers, which are not manufactured specifically for our purpose and may cause thread breakage. The problem itself, together with the solution, was described above.
If the cleaning does not help and the thread continues to break, stop the embroidery and change the stabilizer.
A bent needle, burrs and a blunt needlepoint may also be the reason for thread breakage. In this case change the needle to a new one.
Also if the needle type is wrong for the particular kind of fabric, this may lead to the thread breakage, too. Read the information on how to choose needles, in our future articles.
In some embroidery machines the bobbin case used for the embroidery is different from the one used for sewing. If you have encountered the problem with thread breakage, check the one that is currently in use.
Burrs on the bobbin case are often the reason for the thread breakage. Take out the case and inspect it. If there are burrs and scratches present, polish them with a soft abrasive cloth. When it will be possible, buy a new bobbin case.
Scratches on the throat plate caused by the needles hitting it may lead to the thread breakage. Inspect the throat plate from above and from below, and if you find burrs and scratches there, think of buying a new one.
Original text by: Irina Lisitsa
The Hardanger embroidery is an ancient Scandinavian hand embroidery technique, which involves counted satin stitches, because the design is created by the parallel stitches that run along the straight lines. There is something from hemstitch in it, too, because one part of the fabric base is later removed. Traditionally the Hardanger embroidery was used to decorate dresses and costumes of the Norwegian beauties. As any other hand embroidery technique, Hardanger requires a lot of embroiderer's time and patience. With the development of new technologies and embroidery equipment the Hardanger technique became much easier and quicker to accomplish.
This master-class shows the order in which you should embroider the elements of the Hardanger design, so you could decorate your house with a Hardanger pillow.
• The main fabric
• Tearaway adhesive stabilizer
• Upper thread
• Water soluble stabilizer
• Machine embroidery design (hardanger)
Hardanger. Embroidery process
Print your design patterns on your printer. Stick your tearaway adhesive stabilizer to the wrong side of your fabric. Organize the printed designs on your fabric the way you like. Mark the center of each design.
Hoop the fabric in accordance with these center marks. Set you hoops in your machine and load the design. It is more convenient to embroider from the center of the design to the edges.
The first stitch will mark the area of your future Hardanger embroidery. Put a piece of a thin water soluble stabilizer onto this first stitch, the second stitch will secure it on the fabric and will allow you to cut away the pieces where the Hardanger stitches will be.
After having secured the water soluble stabilizer on the fabric by a narrow zig-zag stitch, take the hoop off your machine and turn it wrong side to the top. Make an incision through the fabric and the stabilizer, but leave the water soluble stabilizer intact. Cut out the area where your Hardanger embroidery will be, trimming the fabric near the stitches.
After having trimmed the extra fabric, set you hoops into the machine and finish your embroidery.
When embroidering, don't forget to change the thread, using the color map that goes with the design.
Repeat the embroidery process for the other parts of your design. After the embroidery is completed, rinse it with the sufficient amount of warm water or wash the ready item without the use of laundry detergents.
Hardanger. Assembling the front side
When the embroidery is completed, wash your item sparingly and dry it slightly, then smooth the embroidered part with an iron. To make the pillow, cut out two pieces of fabric of two different colors, 5 and 8 cm wide. Sew them together, press the seam allowances to the darker colored side. Then sew these two strips of fabric on both sides of the central detail on your pillow. The front side is ready, now all we have to do is to sew the back side.
The pillow decorated with Hardanger embroidery is ready!
Original text by: unknown
Everything has its reason, and it is good when these reasons can be analyzed and understood and mistakes prevented before the material has been hooped and stabilizers, fabrics, threads and, what's most important, time have been wasted.
Are you familiar with the situation when you overexert yourself, but all you get is an ill-looking embroidery with objects dislocated and the fabric pulled? How to prevent it?
On the quality of machine embroidery
Problems with a design
One of the reasons of a bad embroidery is a low quality design. The main signs of the low quality design are: the lack of basting where it is needed, large quantity of stitches that are too short or too long, and also Tatami fill, which is the result of an automatic processing (90% of the designs created automatically are of poor quality and can be more or less normally embroidered on dense, well-stabilized fabrics).
If you come across such a design, the result will most probably be deplorable.
The reason for this are the mistakes made by the designer in the process of digitizing a design or the ones made by the user in the process of altering it.
Identify a low quality design
How to do it? In future, when you gain sufficient experience, you will discern problems in a design at the first glance.
Problems with embroidery technique
You have made some mistakes when preparing a design and then embroidering it, which resulted in a work of poor quality. Like using a stabilizer in a wrong way or embroidering a design on a wrong type of fabric. For example, a beginner may embroider a dense design on leather. As a result, the embroidery may just fall out, because numerous needle perforations will separate the embroidered piece from the rest of the fabric.
Another embroidery technology mistake is loose hooping.
The choice of a needle also may influence the quality of your embroidery. This particularly concerns embroidery on thin knitwear or such materials as leather, faux leather, upholstery fabrics and coated fabrics.
Sure, you won't always have to put up with fabrics that give you problems, but you need to consider fabric+needle+thread in any case.
For example, beginners and even experienced embroiderers often encounter a problem with embroidery on a perforated fabric or knitwear, because a thin and sharp embroidery needle only cuts the threads up. You should use a thin ballpoint needle for knits when working with such fabrics.
Leather, especially cordovan or the the thick one used for belts, should be embroidered with leather needles, and the use of designs such as Blackwork or Redwork, where stitches are sparse, is preferable.
Disregard for the rules of embroidery making may lead to a disagreeable result. For example, in case when a thin film, which is intended to be used as an upper stabilizer, is used as an underlay for a fabric or a main stabilizer for lace.
Preparing for embroidery you should choose your stabilizer properly and carefully read the manual.
A very common mistake is to hoop the fabric in a wrong way. When the fabric is loose, there are creases and cramps on it. And of course, you'll get a defective result, even if the design is good. To get a neat embroidery, with an even fill and without any creases and shifting of the details, you need to press the fabric beforehand, in order to stabilize it properly, to straighten the fabric in the hoop (try not to overdo it!) and to tighten the hoop screw so that the fabric would not move.
Another mistake made by many embroiderers, especially those who just begin to learn the technique by themselves, is embroidering a dense design on knitwear. Despite using a stabilizer an embroidery does not look good, because the fabric is pulled at the edges, and the embroidered area is much more rigid than the rest of the fabric, to the point where it seems like a piece of wax. If you have embroidered right on the item, without doing a test piece first, your favorite pullover or your client's jacket is ruined.
To avoid problems like that choose the fabric that matches your design in density.
Problems with equipment
If your machine breaks the thread
• The main reason for it may be an accumulation of thread fragments and lint in the tensioner and also the dirt under the throat plate.
Take off the top that covers the lamp (you won't lose your guarantee, but will be able see everything inside) and inspect your machine carefully (you can use a magnifier). If you find fragments of threads and other litter, remove them.
• One more reason for the thread breakage is the poor quality of embroidery threads.Try the threads of some other brand and see how they work in your machine.
• The third reason for thread breakage are needles. The needles need to be replaced from time to time, because they wear down. It's not very economical to replace them often, but if the thread breakage continues, it's time to do it, because there may be a burr in the needle's eye.
• Also the thread may break because of adhesive. Even adhesives specifically manufactured for machine embroidery may, if applied in large quantities, stick not only to the fabric, but to the needle, too. Lint accumulates, the thread gets stuck in it and breaks as a result.
Clean your needles with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol and try to apply less adhesive in future.
Too much stabilizer
In some cases, such as embroidering a painting, you need it to be very dense, but a thin stabilizer or several layers of printing paper, which is used by many money-saving embroiderers, adds friction, so when the thread goes through a lot of layers, it becomes frayed and eventually breaks. What is the most unpleasant, the thread may be in this state for a while, and the machine won't signal its breakage, and the embroidery will be done incorrectly for a long time.
This won't happen if you choose a stabilizer of an appropriate density.
Too loose or too tight upper thread or underthread tension may have a negative impact on the quality of the embroidery. Underthread may show on the right side and ruin the look of your design. You need to regulate it, either by yourself, following the instructions in your manual, or with the help of a service engineer.
Loops on the wrong side usually appear when the upper thread is loose because it did not get between the tension discs. Some models have their own way of threading: in some the foot must be up, in the others — down.
In order to fix it you need to rethread the machine, in accordance with the manual.
The automatic trimming between the objects does not always have a good impact on the design. For example, it's better not to trim a cross-stitch design that has numerous individual crosses lying very close to each other. In case of automatic trimming the you'll get a thick fringe of thread ends and the machine will have trouble embroidering.
Each case requires a unique approach, depending on the design, and you should turn down the automatic trimming option if needed, either in the software or in the machine.
This is an incomplete list of embroidery technique irregularities and the reasons for low quality output. Beginners sometimes get rather inventive. Nevertheless, if you read this and learn to avoid some mistakes, the success is guaranteed.
We wish our readers to accomplish only the best quality while embroidering!
Original text: unknown
Good afternoon! Among the lovers of the machine embroidery there are those who prefer step-by-step tutorials, master-classes and other guidance materials, and there are also the ones who try to master the great variety of working practices all by themselves. For whose who are on the brink of engaging into learning machine embroidery techniques by themselves, here's a little bit of advice.
The phrase "learn by yourself" does not mean "turn a blind eye to all that has been previously written on the subject", but "to use what has been previously written and to fill the gaps".
Learning machine embroidery technique by yourself
What you should notice when mastering the technology of embroidering on a specific type of fabric.
The fabric and its characteristics
You should know the fabric you are going to work with. Learn, if only superficially, its characteristics. Whether is stretches or not. Whether it is loosely or densely woven. Whether its surface is smooth or piled.
If we are talking about using machine embroidery techniques on different types of fabric, I'd like to name it "Machine embroidery on the types of fabric that give you trouble", because in most cases embroidery on a densely woven smooth-surfaced material does not you cause any trouble at all, even the chosen design is a bit too dense.
Stabilizers and hooping methods
First of all, learn the main types of stabilizers in existence. We have already described various types of embroidery stabilizers and where to use them; also you can search our forum for tips. Try to figure out what type of stabilizer will be better for you fabric. Whether you should use a water soluble stabilizer or not. Whether you need an underlay and of what kind. When to use a tearaway stabilizer and when a cutaway will be better. Whether you should hoop the fabric or better go without it.
Needles and threads
You have probably noticed that many needles for machine embroidery and sewing are made for specific purpose. There are omni-purpose needles, embroidery needles, also needles for metallic thread, silk, woolen fiber etc.
First, learn the materials available and then use what you have. Perhaps, the main recommendation on using needles will be as follows:
You should not use expensive needles when working with densely woven fabrics that do not cause trouble, and when working with delicate fabrics such as silk or calico you should not use the same needles as you do for densely woven ones. Try to use rare and expensive needles for their intended purposes.
The threads come in different types, too, and each of these types has its own usage recommendations. The main types of thread are polyester, viscose rayon, wool and cotton. The last two are the common polyester threads without luster, but with the addition of wool and cotton. Try using different threads with different types of needles available in your machine.
When choosing which ones to use pay attention to the width of needle's eye and thread thickness. When you use a thick woolen fiber, you'd better not choose a narrow needle's eye.
And so, gradually, you will understand, whether you should use a thick thread when embroidering on silk if you cannot use a thin needle with it. Whether you should choose a big eye needle when working with a thin thread. How many needles for silk will you need to embroidery a dense design on the tarpaulin...
For a beginner all machine embroidery designs look the same. Beginners don't pay attention neither to the density of the design nor to filling characteristics. They don't yet know what the words "satin", "tatami" and "motif" mean. But such a situation won't last long. After having embroidered a dense chevron on a thin knitwear and having got a "bulletproof vest" as a result, or having embroidered a rare stitch on a terry towel you will understand that you should pay attention to design characteristics. To understand how a satin column pulls the fabric, how the tatami behaves, what restrictions apply to the stitch designs and where they will look good and harmonious.
We will definitely write about all this in our blogs, and meanwhile we suggest that you embark on a journey of learning the machine embroidery techniques by yourself.