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Found 5 results

  1. Hi friends! Today we’ll talk about water-soluble stabilizers by Madeira. I’ll try to show you what they can do and where you may apply them. Madeira has a line of water-soluble stabilizers named Avalon. Therefore, it is not correct to apply this name to all water-soluble products. When we say ‘Avalon’, we mean Madeira, and when we say ‘Madeira’, Avalon is implied. Madeira offers 4 items in that department. They have different properties and functions. Avalon Film A thin semitransparent water-soluble film. To the touch, it is like a plastic bag. This stabilizer can only be used as a topping. It is good for terry cloth, piled fabrics, knits, and fur. You put it on top of your fabric in order to prevent the sinking of the stitches. Avalon Ultra Dense water-soluble film. It looks very similar to the greenhouse covering material. Machine embroiderers use it as a main fabric when creating thin diaphanous laces, such as Battenberg lace or Vologda lace. You hoop the stabilizer, choose a design of a certain kind, and embroider. The dense film is also used for cutwork and Hardanger, where you cut out the holes and then apply the material. Avalon Plus A non-woven material that is also used as a main fabric for the embroidery. Works well for felting, cutwork, and Hardanger embroidery. If you’re making lace and want it to maintain its shape in future, Avalon Plus is the right choice. You hoop the stabilizer and embroider. After the embroidery is completed, the stabilizer is washed away. If you want my personal opinion, I like Avalon Plus more. To me, it seems more reliable, though while I was writing this article, I asked Irina Lisitza, our technology specialist, and she said that for thin laces, she prefers Avalon Ultra because it washes out better. Avalon Fix This one is similar in structure to Avalon Plus, but with an adhesive layer and protection paper cover. It is used as backing for embroidery on very thin and diaphanous fabrics, such as batiste, tulle netting, and organza. In other words, in all those cases where the stabilizer is hard to remove or where it makes the embroidery too dense. The making process is simple. You hoop the stabilizer, cut the protective cover, put your fabric on top of it and do the embroidery. This is all, in a nutshell. Happy embroidery!
  2. Hello, we have been screen printing for 5 years and are getting a single head embroidery machine in December. I spent the first 3 years of our screen printing experience testing different inks, mesh counts, etc and while it was great I also wasted a lot of money on the wrong supplies. For our embarkment in the embroidery world I would like to minimize the amount of wasted dollars and thought I would ask here what everyone suggests as far as brands and materials. We will be doing mostly hats and polos as that is what we currently outsource the most of but I am sure there will be other stuff that comes our way. I'm looking to start purchasing supplies over the next few weeks while we work through the purchase process of the machine. What does everyone suggest for threads and needles? I know MADEIRA is the most popular for thread but what is the difference between PolyNeon and Rayon? My apparel supplier (Alpha) also sells Triumph needles but I dont know what the difference between Titanium/Chrome and Universal/Ball Point is. What about backing? Primarily on structured hats, what does everyone suggest? These questions may be vague but I'm not sure where else to start than with the basics. Thanks!
  3. Has anyone had anyone complain about Madeira red thread bleeding into a white cotton T-shirt? I had a customer call and complain. What would cause this?
  4. We are doing big designs, we're setting up for the Irish Dance Dress market but doing spinoffs of the designs onto hoodies and sweats. Mainly using the 300 x 300 to 450x480 hoop sizes. The range of fabrics we are trying to set up for is rather large too, anything from woven to stretch knits and even silks and crystal organza. The celtic knotwork and similar open designs also tend to be quite gappy rather than a solid fill so there are many areas of backing left between stitches. For stretch fabrics (hoodies and sweats) we are currently using 2 crossed layers of a directional tearaway obtained from AJS (38g/m2) but it is far from perfect. There is too much stretch when in the large hoops, and it takes ages to tear out afterwards. We are using tensioning stitches (running a 10mm x 2.5 mm pitch steil around the outside of the design area) to improve the stretch problem, but on a recent batch of hoodies the design took 20 minutes to run and the backing took 25 minutes to pick out (incompletely). so far we have found Madeira (of course) and ETC in the UK, but not getting the results I want from the samples of their backings that I've tried. Madiera's tear away goes from not strong enough to hold at 40g (comes out easily, but the stitch tension also tears the backing and the results are too inaccurate) to being hard to tear (pulled on the stitches & fabric too much) and leaving horrible long fluffy fibres at the 50g. We also tried the madeira 100g/m2 AS heat film but still too stretchy for the big hoops and it melted into the fabric when we tried to remove it. The water soluble was fun but not suitable for large hoops or fabrics that would water mark. we've got another batch of samples from the ETC stand at the NEC to try but their samples are never big enough to try in the larger hoops. With a single head in part time use we are not a high volume user so do not want to commit to big rolls unless we know they will work. are there any other backing suppliers and backing types worth trying in the UK?
  5. I am struggling to know that why bobbin threads comes up in the top while embroidering? I got MC9900. Last week, I visited to the shop where I talk about my threading problems. She told me that it is the issue with threading from the top not with the issue of bobbin itself. After her advice, I am enjoying my embroidery trouble free but today it again started on the halfway through a design. As far as I am concern, I am threading the machine every time. Is that what am I doing wrong? White is coming from my front and it is not looking bad on this section. Then, I end my color block. Before starting with new color, I replace my needle with new one and also put bobbin of Madeira under the bobbin holder. I re-threaded the top section as normal but the problem is same occurring. It is not going back side of my fabric.
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