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Found 27 results

  1. You have a pic of a full front panel photo stitch wolf on a t shirt. May I ask how you stabilized it specifically. Type of backing, single or multiple layers or types. Spray tack or any other special handling. How heavy is the final presentation? I have been working on a light fashion t and am having hard time not getting push pull distortions and puckering even with med/heavy fusible backing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Really impressed with the idea, but want as light an end result as possible for the combo of high stitch density and light t shirt. Thanks in advance. Running Melco EMT16 and 11 3/4 x 17 hoop. I am really wanting to end with the lightest result that is feasible. I am open to suggestions including slowing speed down to a creep, lightening bobbin/top stitch weights, creative backing combinations, etc. Whatever might have worked for anyone.
  2. Hi all, I try embroid a minie file buyed on Embroidery designs library shop in my new embroidery Brother Innovis-NV800E with hoop 260x160 and the border of pictures and the colours doesn't match. When I buy the minie file, it was possible download a "winnie the pooh" free file and when also I try embroid pooh file happens the same of minie file To Embroid I used the pes file, but i also try pec and phc files and happen the sames always. Exist any problem with the files? or exist any configuration i have wrong on my machine?, Anyone know what could be the problem? thanks for the help, Paulo Monteiro
  3. Many girls like to play as they are princesses: they take mother’s fancy dresses and shoes with high heels, make complex hairstyle and even makeup and imagine them inside the huge medieval castle. If your daughter or daughter of your friends like these games too she will definitely likes this cute picture of funny princess in pink dress of cartoon style. Little princess embroidery design will be her favorite decoration of clothes or bag.
  4. Hi friends! Today we’ll talk about water-soluble stabilizers by Madeira. I’ll try to show you what they can do and where you may apply them. Madeira has a line of water-soluble stabilizers named Avalon. Therefore, it is not correct to apply this name to all water-soluble products. When we say ‘Avalon’, we mean Madeira, and when we say ‘Madeira’, Avalon is implied. Madeira offers 4 items in that department. They have different properties and functions. Avalon Film A thin semitransparent water-soluble film. To the touch, it is like a plastic bag. This stabilizer can only be used as a topping. It is good for terry cloth, piled fabrics, knits, and fur. You put it on top of your fabric in order to prevent the sinking of the stitches. Avalon Ultra Dense water-soluble film. It looks very similar to the greenhouse covering material. Machine embroiderers use it as a main fabric when creating thin diaphanous laces, such as Battenberg lace or Vologda lace. You hoop the stabilizer, choose a design of a certain kind, and embroider. The dense film is also used for cutwork and Hardanger, where you cut out the holes and then apply the material. Avalon Plus A non-woven material that is also used as a main fabric for the embroidery. Works well for felting, cutwork, and Hardanger embroidery. If you’re making lace and want it to maintain its shape in future, Avalon Plus is the right choice. You hoop the stabilizer and embroider. After the embroidery is completed, the stabilizer is washed away. If you want my personal opinion, I like Avalon Plus more. To me, it seems more reliable, though while I was writing this article, I asked Irina Lisitza, our technology specialist, and she said that for thin laces, she prefers Avalon Ultra because it washes out better. Avalon Fix This one is similar in structure to Avalon Plus, but with an adhesive layer and protection paper cover. It is used as backing for embroidery on very thin and diaphanous fabrics, such as batiste, tulle netting, and organza. In other words, in all those cases where the stabilizer is hard to remove or where it makes the embroidery too dense. The making process is simple. You hoop the stabilizer, cut the protective cover, put your fabric on top of it and do the embroidery. This is all, in a nutshell. Happy embroidery!
  5. Tearaway adhesive stabilizers are used for the embroidery on various fabrics. The main goal of a sticky stabilizer is the prevention of puckering; it is, perhaps, its only goal if you don’t count the ones that rampant imagination can conjure. Adhesive stabilizers vary in weight. The most lightweight stabilizers are intended for delicate fabrics (batiste, sateen, satin). Heavier stabilizers are used when working with such fabrics as drape cloth, linen, denim, etc. Tearaway adhesive stabilizer You can purchase black and white stabilizers in world As I’ve already said, they vary in weight: the higher the weight, the thicker and stronger the stabilizer. Stabilizers are similar to paper made from pressed fibers, they have one coarse and one smooth side covered with a layer of glue. The only difference between sticky and non-sticky stabilizers is the adhesive layer. It allows gluing fabric to the stabilizer with the help of an iron and nothing else. Weight is the main property of a stabilizer. It is measured in grams per m2. The greater the number, the denser the stabilizer. The figure may vary from 25 to 130 g/m2. The lightweight stabilizers are used with thin and delicate fabrics, whereas heavyweight stabilizers – with dense and thick ones. Composition: 50-70% cellulose and 25-30% synthetic fibers, also 100% rayon or 100% polyester. Stabilizers are often sold without any marking, and newbies get puzzled trying to figure out whether it is good for the fabric they've chosen or not. It is very easy to define stabilizer density by touch. Feel the material and take a cue from that. The stabilizer should not be much denser than your chosen fabric, otherwise, you’ll get a thick patch on the thin fabric. When buying an adhesive stabilizer, try and learn who produced it, how it is marked and what fabrics it is intended for. In case it's difficult for you to remember a wide variety of stabilizers, create a supplementary sheet for every one you own, fill in all the relevant information and attach a sample. This will help you to distinguish among the different types of stabilizers. Usage embroidery stabilizer. Sticky stabilizers are used when there is a high possibility of puckering during the embroidery, and no hooping restrictions apply. In order to attach the stabilizer, place the fabric with its wrong side facing up, and put the stabilizer on top of it with its sticky side facing fabric. With a hot iron glue the stabilizer to it. Hoop the “sandwich” with the right side of the fabric facing upward. After the embroidery is completed, carefully tear away the stabilizer along the edges. Tearaway adhesive stabilizers are also noted for being easy to remove from the wrong side of the fabric after the work has been completed. If the stabilizer does not tear, it is not a tearaway, but a cutaway. A tearaway adhesive stabilizer should tear easily in all directions. When purchasing a stabilizer, give preference to those that tear more easily. They will make your job easier. It’s better not to use tearaway adhesive stabilizers when doing Walk Stitch or Run Stitch because they are hard to remove from the wrong side. If, for one reason or another, you had to use a stabilizer, tear it away gently on completion, so as not to damage the stitch lines. Storage rules. Store the carefully folded stabilizers in a plastic bag where the sun cannot reach them. Bear in mind that the stabilizer’s adhesive layer may deteriorate in the course of time, and therefore, do not buy the three years supply. Keep to the minimum. Try not to crease the stabilizer, because this will damage its adhesive properties.
  6. Original text by: unknown Everything has its reason, and it is good when these reasons can be analyzed and understood and mistakes prevented before the material has been hooped and stabilizers, fabrics, threads and, what's most important, time have been wasted. Are you familiar with the situation when you overexert yourself, but all you get is an ill-looking embroidery with objects dislocated and the fabric pulled? How to prevent it? On the quality of machine embroidery Problems with a design One of the reasons of a bad embroidery is a low quality design. The main signs of the low quality design are: the lack of basting where it is needed, large quantity of stitches that are too short or too long, and also Tatami fill, which is the result of an automatic processing (90% of the designs created automatically are of poor quality and can be more or less normally embroidered on dense, well-stabilized fabrics). If you come across such a design, the result will most probably be deplorable. The reason for this are the mistakes made by the designer in the process of digitizing a design or the ones made by the user in the process of altering it. Identify a low quality design How to do it? In future, when you gain sufficient experience, you will discern problems in a design at the first glance. Problems with embroidery technique You have made some mistakes when preparing a design and then embroidering it, which resulted in a work of poor quality. Like using a stabilizer in a wrong way or embroidering a design on a wrong type of fabric. For example, a beginner may embroider a dense design on leather. As a result, the embroidery may just fall out, because numerous needle perforations will separate the embroidered piece from the rest of the fabric. Another embroidery technology mistake is loose hooping. The choice of a needle also may influence the quality of your embroidery. This particularly concerns embroidery on thin knitwear or such materials as leather, faux leather, upholstery fabrics and coated fabrics. Sure, you won't always have to put up with fabrics that give you problems, but you need to consider fabric+needle+thread in any case. For example, beginners and even experienced embroiderers often encounter a problem with embroidery on a perforated fabric or knitwear, because a thin and sharp embroidery needle only cuts the threads up. You should use a thin ballpoint needle for knits when working with such fabrics. Leather, especially cordovan or the the thick one used for belts, should be embroidered with leather needles, and the use of designs such as Blackwork or Redwork, where stitches are sparse, is preferable. Disregard for the rules of embroidery making may lead to a disagreeable result. For example, in case when a thin film, which is intended to be used as an upper stabilizer, is used as an underlay for a fabric or a main stabilizer for lace. Preparing for embroidery you should choose your stabilizer properly and carefully read the manual. A very common mistake is to hoop the fabric in a wrong way. When the fabric is loose, there are creases and cramps on it. And of course, you'll get a defective result, even if the design is good. To get a neat embroidery, with an even fill and without any creases and shifting of the details, you need to press the fabric beforehand, in order to stabilize it properly, to straighten the fabric in the hoop (try not to overdo it!) and to tighten the hoop screw so that the fabric would not move. Another mistake made by many embroiderers, especially those who just begin to learn the technique by themselves, is embroidering a dense design on knitwear fabric. Despite using a stabilizer an embroidery does not look good, because the fabric is pulled at the edges, and the embroidered area is much more rigid than the rest of the fabric, to the point where it seems like a piece of wax. If you have embroidered right on the item, without doing a test piece first, your favorite pullover or your client's jacket is ruined. To avoid problems like that choose the fabric that matches your design in density. Problems with embroidery equipment. If your machine breaks the thread • The main reason for it may be an accumulation of thread fragments and lint in the tensioner and also the dirt under the throat plate. Take off the top that covers the lamp (you won't lose your guarantee, but will be able see everything inside) and inspect your machine carefully (you can use a magnifier). If you find fragments of threads and other litter, remove them. • One more reason for the thread breakage is the poor quality of embroidery threads.Try the threads of some other brand and see how they work in your machine. • The third reason for thread breakage are needles. The needles need to be replaced from time to time, because they wear down. It's not very economical to replace them often, but if the thread breakage continues, it's time to do it, because there may be a burr in the needle's eye. • Also the thread may break because of adhesive<. even adhesives specifically manufactured for machine embroidery may if applied in large quantities stick not only to the fabric but needle too. lint accumulates thread gets stuck it and breaks as a result. Clean your needles with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol and try to apply less adhesive in future. Too much stabilizer In some cases, such as embroidering a painting, you need it to be very dense, but a thin stabilizer or several layers of printing paper, which is used by many money-saving embroiderers, adds friction, so when the thread goes through a lot of layers, it becomes frayed and eventually breaks. What is the most unpleasant, the thread may be in this state for a while, and the machine won't signal its breakage, and the embroidery will be done incorrectly for a long time. This won't happen if you choose a stabilizer of an appropriate density. Too loose or too tight upper thread or underthread tension may have a negative impact on the quality of the embroidery. Underthread may show on the right side and ruin the look of your design. You need to regulate it, either by yourself, following the instructions in your manual, or with the help of a service engineer. Loops on the wrong side usually appear when the upper thread is loose because it did not get between the tension discs. Some models have their own way of threading: in some the foot must be up, in the others — down. In order to fix it you need to rethread the machine, in accordance with the manual. The automatic trimming between the objects does not always have a good impact on the design. For example, it's better not to trim a cross-stitch design that has numerous individual crosses lying very close to each other. In case of automatic trimming the you'll get a thick fringe of thread ends and the machine will have trouble embroidering. Each case requires a unique approach, depending on the design, and you should turn down the automatic trimming option if needed, either in the software or in the machine. This is an incomplete list of embroidery technique irregularities and the reasons for low quality output. Beginners sometimes get rather inventive. Nevertheless, if you read this and learn to avoid some mistakes, the success is guaranteed. We wish our readers to accomplish only the best quality while embroidering!
  7. I am embroidering puff onto a baseball cap (Hawk Head) design. Using a tearaway stabilizer and 2mm puff. I am experiencing a problem with the final sew out where the design is pulling in (concave) the area of the design on the front of the hat. Get the same happening on other puffed designs also. Using a Pantogram 1501 single head machine. Looking for suggestions as to what I may be doing wrong. Ideas?
  8. I recently got a Brother SE-400 and I love it! I make patches and I managed to make a few before I started to have issues. The original design is below. My first try went like this... (if you can't tell, it's bent like a bowl) This is what it looks like when I flattened it using my fingers... (there's still considerable puckering around the text) Then I tried it again, this time with a lower tension. It started out fine, but by the time it got to the yellow (the third color), it was puckering again. When I tried to do the black, it had puckered so bad the needle was only going down in one spot. It was unable to move. I used 3 layers of iron-on stabilizer and I sewed them together in a desperate attempt to stop the puckering. It's not necessarily that the fabric around it is puckering, its that the actual DESIGN is. I use medical tape to keep it from sliding around in the hoop. I still have puckering!! What should I do?
  9. Used Mosaic horse embroidery design from our Mosaic collection. A large size and only one color is an excellent choice for commercial embroidery design. You do not need to change embroidery threads more often and lose time. You can embroider everything at once. You do not need a lot of stabilizer. This is an easy and beautiful embroidery design. A large variety in the choice of clothes allows you to create your own unique style, combine and experiment with them. Stylish denim jacket with colorful embroidery on the back, fashionable baseball cap with volumetric embroidery or incredibly beautiful boots - these are the details that emphasize individuality and allow you to be special. What kind of clothes you can do embroidery: denim jackets, vests and jeans; light cotton dresses, sundresses, blouses; leather and suede jackets; medical clothes; special uniform for employees of cafes, restaurants, supermarkets; army and police uniform; baseball caps, caps, panama; bags, shoes and other products.
  10. The quality of machine embroidery is 99% dependent on compliance with the technology - the right choice of stabilizer and the right stabilization, the right choice of threads and design, etc. Information on all these issues will be collected here.
  11. Part of Teddy Bear with pony machine embroidery design . In hoop. Excellent stacked stitches. Neat embroidery. The quality of embroidery largely depends on the quality of the selected materials. Use only proven stabilizers and machine embroidery threads.
  12. Igor thank you once again for a lovely design.It stitched out really well on car vinyl which I was worried about because I could not hoop it. I put double sided tape on the back and stuck it in the hoop to the stabilizer. Worked a treat. Brodie is very happy with his pencil case He will be the only one in his class to have a special one.

    © Starting Over

  13. Describe here stabilizer you are using. Help other users make the right choice.
  14. Ten Tips for Baseball Cap Embroidery Embroidery on caps is one of the most challenging tasks, because they have a whole set of special features that render usual embroidery equipment unfit for them. Use only those caps that will really fit your cap frames. It doesn't matter what you're doing: walking along the street, taking part in a corporate event or even — you never know — supporting you team during a baseball match, you see baseball caps everywhere, and they all look identical to you. What you can't even imagine is that there are numerous types of baseball caps depending on their size, shape, number of panels, and that means that not every type will fit your cap frames. In order to avoid poor quality embroidery, you should buy several models of baseball caps and try to embroider a pattern. See where it fits better. Try to offer only these types of baseball caps to your clients, but in case they insist on a particular model, see if it fits your уour embroidery equipment first. Don't economize on cap frames. The law of embroidery on baseball caps states that it is better to spend some money in order to buy various cap frames than to be able to embroider very few types of caps. So, if you plan to offer some promotional embroidery on baseball caps to your clients, buy a selection of cap frames. By doing so you will considerably expand your possibilities. Buy a 270 frame, too. It is useful because it enables you to embroider both the front and the sides of the cap simultaneously. Such a cap will look good and creatively different. Don't let the embroidery design height slip you mind. Every cap model implies design height of it's own. A 5 cm design height is standard for cap embroidery. If a design is too big, embroidery in the areas beyond the recommended 5 cm limit will come out warped, possibly with other defects. But you can go up to 5.75 cm on low profile and up to 6.25 cm on high profile. How to handle a wide design. If the machine embroidery design on the front of a 6-panel baseball cap is wider than 10 cm or you need to embroider small letters close to the peak, you should digitize from the middle of design outward. How to cope with puckering seams problem. Puckering center seams are the embroiderer's nightmare. They cause pulling and warp, which may damage your work. But there are some helpful tips on how to make an embroidery over a center seam neat and good-looking. Try to choose baseball caps with flat center seams, this will help to avoid tension and warp. Use a 80/12 needle, it won't bend when penetrating a seam. You should also use a sharp point instead of a ballpoint needle. Better use teflon-coated needles, because they penetrate the fabric more easily than traditional stainless steel ones. Also use polyester thread, which is stronger than rayon and will reduce the chance of a embroidery thread breakage. If your design includes lettering with an outline, digitize so that one letter is complete before moving to the next letter. Choose you stabilizer properly. If you embroider on a soft cap, use a stiff backing or the design will be distorted. If you embroider on a leather cap, increase stitch length and column width whilst reducing the density of fill stitches, because the large number of perforations creates the "etching effect", and the design may pop out. Use a single, continuous piece of backing when working with a 270 frame. Use your appliques carefully. Better not to use heavier weight fabrics with a high pile, such as corduroy or fleece for appliques on baseball caps. The stitches will sink into the pile and become invisible. Digitize a unique machine embroidery design for a cap. Some "experts" think that for a cap you can use a design digitized for an embroidery, say, on a pocket. Though these designs may look alike, they use different types and density of fill stitches, and also different techniques. Please remember that baseball cap designs should be digitized separately and be unique, or the unsatisfactory result will be guaranteed. Before ordering a embroidery design for embroidery on baseball caps you should tell the master all information required: the fabric of which the caps are made, the number of planes, the width of the center seam, the height of the crown. This will help to create a quality design.
  15. Can someone please give me suggestions for stabilizer to use on dance leotards? They are 90% polyester / 10% spandex, and I'll be embroidering names on them. Thank you,
  16. Version PDF format

    129 downloads

    If you search and explore stabilizers and backing material this guide is best instruction for beginners.
  17. We are doing big designs, we're setting up for the Irish Dance Dress market but doing spinoffs of the designs onto hoodies and sweats. Mainly using the 300 x 300 to 450x480 hoop sizes. The range of fabrics we are trying to set up for is rather large too, anything from woven to stretch knits and even silks and crystal organza. The celtic knotwork and similar open designs also tend to be quite gappy rather than a solid fill so there are many areas of backing left between stitches. For stretch fabrics (hoodies and sweats) we are currently using 2 crossed layers of a directional tearaway obtained from AJS (38g/m2) but it is far from perfect. There is too much stretch when in the large hoops, and it takes ages to tear out afterwards. We are using tensioning stitches (running a 10mm x 2.5 mm pitch steil around the outside of the design area) to improve the stretch problem, but on a recent batch of hoodies the design took 20 minutes to run and the backing took 25 minutes to pick out (incompletely). so far we have found Madeira (of course) and ETC in the UK, but not getting the results I want from the samples of their backings that I've tried. Madiera's tear away goes from not strong enough to hold at 40g (comes out easily, but the stitch tension also tears the backing and the results are too inaccurate) to being hard to tear (pulled on the stitches & fabric too much) and leaving horrible long fluffy fibres at the 50g. We also tried the madeira 100g/m2 AS heat film but still too stretchy for the big hoops and it melted into the fabric when we tried to remove it. The water soluble was fun but not suitable for large hoops or fabrics that would water mark. we've got another batch of samples from the ETC stand at the NEC to try but their samples are never big enough to try in the larger hoops. With a single head in part time use we are not a high volume user so do not want to commit to big rolls unless we know they will work. are there any other backing suppliers and backing types worth trying in the UK?
  18. This is our first time to embroider on 100% silk camp shirts and would like any tips on the best way to do it. Ball or sharp needle? Backing type? etc. Thanks!
  19. I bought Brother PE 770, 6 months ago and I am new to this embroidery business. I have used sticky back stabilizer for those 6 months and it gave fantastic result. While using stick back the bobbin does not catches the top thread. I cleaned it yet I did not receive any result. I need help from you people.
  20. I got Brothers SE 400 and struggling to learn for embroidery. I read lot of them online. I am new to this forum and would like to ask you all about better stabilizers for children's t-shirts. I heard about light, medium and heavy weight. Are they awesome to use? Please let me know.
  21. Version PDF format

    167 downloads

    Tear Away stabilizer instruction by Colleen Skells
  22. Version PDF format

    161 downloads

    Ultra Solvy Water Soluble stabilizer instruction
  23. I have a friend who is a beginner stitcher as I am, but she insist that you do not need to stabilize quilted fabric. I told her you do need it so the design doesn't shift. She doesn't want to waste time attaching stabilizer by ironing on or sticky stabilizer. I think she is just lazy and don't really care how the backside looks after stitching. Can you answer this question for me. I sometime double when stitching lighter weight fabric such as knits and t-shirt fabric.
  24. I started my first embroidery project. Designs on baby fleiss clothing was a bad for me any help would be great. I only used Sulky Soft 'n Sheer stabilizer on the back and also what stabilizer do I use on tea napkins (cotton), do I use Sulky stabilizer on front and back and if so what kind? Where you buy stabilizer online? Cheap? Your opinion about Floriani Perfect Stick Tearaway I /m from FL.
  25. I'm wondering if anyone has ever used the spray on stabilizer and if so, how did it work/or do? I bought some thinking it was adhesive when I was doing some In-The-Hoop Candy Cane Holders. It certainly doesn't work for adhering stabilizer to the material. Got to looking and it said Spray on Adhesive. I'm working on T-shirt material.
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