Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'stabilizer'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Embroidery designs
    • Embroideres.com designs
    • Free embroidery designs links and download
    • New embroidery designs suggestions
    • Partie francophone
  • Materials for machine embroidery
    • Thread and Stabilizer
  • Embroidery technique
    • Embroidery technique sewing experience
    • Rhinestone designs
    • My sewing room
  • Embroidery software
    • Wilcom software
    • Tajima Pulse software
    • Free, trial and very cheap machine embroidery software
    • Husqvarna/PFAFF embroidery software.
    • Brother embroidery digitizing software
    • Sierra Embroidery software
    • Embroidery Software for Mac
    • Wings XP
  • Logotypes
    • Sport embroidery logos
    • New embroidery logo suggestions
    • Auto and moto logotypes
    • College and University logos
    • Food and Drink logos
    • Fashion and Apparel logotypes
    • Military logotypes and symbols
    • Entertainment industry logotypes embroidery designs
  • Embroidery machines
    • Questions and Answers about embroidery machines
  • Support
    • Questions and Answers
    • Translation of the forum into other languages
  • Electronic magazines, books and patterns
    • Magazines

Blogs

  • Русский блог о машинной вышивке
  • Marina Belova's Blog
  • Embroideres com: tips.
  • VECTOR and RASTER – A distinctive approach
  • maralene aldridge
  • Embroidery
  • What Is Crewel Embroidery?

Categories

  • Animals
  • Applique
  • Auto and Moto
  • Angels and fairies
  • Baby and newborn
  • Birds
  • Cartoon
  • Christmas
  • Cross stitch
  • Decoration
  • Easter
  • Equipment
  • Ethnic
  • Fantasy
  • Flowers
  • Fruits and Vegetables
  • Halloween
  • Heraldry
  • Home and family
  • Oriental
  • Insects
  • Kitchen and Cooking
  • Labels and letters
  • Lace and FSL
  • Landscape and Nature
  • Military
  • Photo stitch
  • Project
  • Redwork
  • Religion
  • Sea theme
  • Science fiction
  • Sport
  • Style
  • Tribal
  • Wilcom elements
  • Woman and Girl
  • Valentine's Day
  • Zodiac Signs
  • Free embroidery software
  • Sewing materials instructions and guide
  • Embroidery software documentation
  • Comunity embroidery designs shop
  • Magazine and Articles
  • Cross stitch designs
    • Pattern Maker cross stitch files
    • X stitch cross stitch designs
    • Embird cross stitch designs

Categories

  • Machine embroidery materials and technology
  • Machine embroidery digitiizng
  • Master Classes

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. I would like to point this out, and have the word spread around. There is no shortage of stabalizer. Seems to be a big problem of some people ordering absurd amounts of stabilizer in such fear that is screwing everything up. 10, 20... 60 different customers Panic order a good or goods... well yeah, the whole system is going to slow right the eff down. Lol, Has slowed down. There is NO shortage, just high panic demand. Stabilizer is not TP. If your having trouble getting any, it's because a bunch of people are panic ordering, and slowing general production. CHILL THE FRICK OUT PEOPLE! ORDER NORMAL! 90%+ of your stabilizer is made right here in the US! Relax and spread the word please, before production people decide to start quiting because of how ridiculous this mess is.
  2. What stabilizer is good to use to embroidery names on 90% polyester / 10% spandex?
  3. There are two types of stabilizers: toppings and backings. A top stabilizer (topping) is used to prevent stitches from sinking into loosely spun and textured fabrics. Use a top stabilizer when embroidering on knitwear, velvet or velour to help stitches to stay in place. A top stabilizer won't prevent fabric from puckering. For this purpose, use backing. For laces, the backing is used as a base fabric. Machine embroidery stabilizers (interfacing, etc.) in our shop. Backing Backings are special, primarily non-woven materials, that provide support and stabilize the fabric during the embroidery, prevent creasing, distortion, and stretch. They are put under the fabric being embroidered. There are several types of backings: tearaway, adhesive, cutaway, water-soluble, heat-away. Tearaway stabilizers Tearaway stabilizers usually consist of paper of varying density (thickness). Tearaway stabilizers are good for most natural fabrics and give only a temporary support. This kind of stabilizer is easily removed and can be successfully used in cases where the wrong side will be seen (towels, plaids, scarfs and so on). It is also widely used with non-transparent fabrics of fair colors, with thick and densely woven fabrics made of natural fibers (denim, for example). Not recommended for any kinds of knits. Adhesive stabilizers These are glued to the wrong side of the item, thus giving it stability. There are several types of adhesives: An ordinary adhesive stabilizer with glue on one side. The item is attached to it with an iron. Adhesive paper with a sticky side covered with a protective layer. This paper is necessary when embroidering tricky fabrics: velvet, cashmere, leather, which are better not to be hooped. And also for the items that are hard to hoop: collars, cuffs, small details. An adhesive paper is placed in the hoop with a sticky side facing up, then the protective layer the size of the embroidery area is removed, and the item is placed on top. Having embroidered the item, tear the paper away. Example: FILMOPLAST®. Cutaway stabilizers Cutaway stabilizers (backings) are used for stabilizing highly stretchable fabrics and provide constant support during the embroidery. One needs them to embroider a machine embroidery design with a lot of stitches, in order to avoid fabric distortion, preventing the appearance of bulges or concavities (the effect stays even after several washes). A cutaway stabilizer is always thicker than a tearaway. It consists of a non-woven fabric made of long fibers on the basis of polyester or rayon. The way the fibers are arranged in a stabilizer defines its purpose. If the fibers are mainly single-oriented, it stretches and tears in this one direction. Therefore, to stabilize the fabric properly you need to use 2 layers of backing, positioning them perpendicularly. There are backings of varying density. Bonding short fibers (polyester, rayon, cellulose) together by solvent treatment, you'll get a non-woven fabric of high quality, which is soft like a tearaway stabilizer, has a smooth surface and does not stretch in any direction. This stabilizer can be of varying density and just one layer of it is sufficient. It is considered the best embroidery stabilizer because it does not add extra volume to the embroidery and does not show through the fabric. Among the cutaway stabilizers, one should note spunbond – a thin, very soft material that resembles a waffle. USA Poly Mesh or No Show Mesh stabilizers. This kind of backing is good because it does not stretch at all, providing support all the time, and is not visible through the fabric. It comes in various colors and densities. It is used for knits. Solvent stabilizers Solvent stabilizers include a water-soluble fabric-like stabilizer and a water-soluble film of varying density. They are used for stabilizing the embroidery when it is necessary to remove the backing without traces. For example, organza, transparent fabrics, FSL, and cutwork. Water-soluble stabilizers come in two varieties: textile interfacing materials and films 100% polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) stabilizers Both are dissolved in water. Time of dissolution depends on the temperature of water. Approximate valued by Gunold: 20 °C about 3 min 25 °C about 2 min 30 °C about 1 min 40 °C about 15 sec In real life, water-solubles are not so easily removed, and it takes more than one round to get rid of it completely. The intended purpose of a water-soluble film depends on its thickness: Thin (20 microns) Used as toppings for lightweight fabrics. Medium (35 microns) are used for textured fabrics (velour with and without pile, velvet, fur and loop fabrics). When embroidering small details and letters on textured fabrics the film should be placed on top for better results. Dense (80 microns) are used as a base fabric for so-called 3D embroidery, FSL, chevrons, cutwork, and as a stabilizer for the fabrics where the wrong side should look good, also for transparent fabrics. Heat-away stabilizers They are used when it is necessary to stabilize the fabric, which shouldn't get wet and you need to remove the backing leftovers. They can be successfully used for creating FSL, as well as water-soluble film. They are removed with a very hot iron (no less than 120°) through the paper. Under no circumstances should steam be used with fusible stabilizers. Upper stabilizers (toppings) These are necessary to prevent the stitches from sinking into the pile, loops, fur and other materials of that kind, also with loosely-knitted fabrics. Gelatin-based toppings are widely known because they can be easily solved in water. This is what is called a water-soluble film. There are two types of water-soluble film: thin and thick (dense). Thin film is used practically with everything, thick one – only with high piles. Next kind of stabilizers is a fusible stabilizer. They are used in cases when the fabric cannot be washed, and therefore, the use of water-soluble film is not possible.
  4. Igor thank you once again for a lovely design.It stitched out really well on car vinyl which I was worried about because I could not hoop it. I put double sided tape on the back and stuck it in the hoop to the stabilizer. Worked a treat. Brodie is very happy with his pencil case He will be the only one in his class to have a special one. Available here Running farmer embroidery design

    © Starting Over

  5. Part of Tiny bear with pony toy embroidery design. In hoop. Excellent stacked stitches. Neat embroidery. The quality of embroidery largely depends on the quality of the selected materials. Use only proven stabilizers and machine embroidery threads.
  6. Tearaway adhesive stabilizers are used for the embroidery designs on various fabrics. The main goal of a sticky stabilizer is the prevention of puckering; it is, perhaps, its only goal if you don’t count the ones that rampant imagination can conjure. Adhesive stabilizers vary in weight. The most lightweight stabilizers are intended for delicate fabrics (batiste, sateen, satin). Heavier stabilizers are used when working with such fabrics as drape cloth, linen, denim, etc. Tearaway adhesive stabilizer You can purchase black and white stabilizers in world As I’ve already said, they vary in weight: the higher the weight, the thicker and stronger the stabilizer. Stabilizers are similar to paper made from pressed fibers, they have one coarse and one smooth side covered with a layer of glue. The only difference between sticky and non-sticky stabilizers is the adhesive layer. It allows gluing fabric to the stabilizer with the help of an iron and nothing else. Weight is the main property of a stabilizer. It is measured in grams per m2. The greater the number, the denser the stabilizer. The figure may vary from 25 to 130 g/m2. The lightweight stabilizers are used with thin and delicate fabrics, whereas heavyweight stabilizers – with dense and thick ones. Composition: 50-70% cellulose and 25-30% synthetic fibers, also 100% rayon or 100% polyester. Stabilizers are often sold without any marking, and newbies get puzzled trying to figure out whether it is good for the fabric they've chosen or not. It is very easy to define stabilizer density by touch. Feel the material and take a cue from that. The stabilizer should not be much denser than your chosen fabric, otherwise, you’ll get a thick patch on the thin fabric. When buying an adhesive stabilizer, try and learn who produced it, how it is marked and what fabrics it is intended for. In case it's difficult for you to remember a wide variety of stabilizers, create a supplementary sheet for every one you own, fill in all the relevant information and attach a sample. This will help you to distinguish among the different types of stabilizers. Usage embroidery stabilizer. Sticky stabilizers are used when there is a high possibility of puckering during the embroidery, and no hooping restrictions apply. In order to attach the stabilizer, place the fabric with its wrong side facing up, and put the stabilizer on top of it with its sticky side facing fabric. With a hot iron glue the stabilizer to it. Hoop the “sandwich” with the right side of the fabric facing upward. After the embroidery is completed, carefully tear away the stabilizer along the edges. Tearaway adhesive stabilizers are also noted for being easy to remove from the wrong side of the fabric after the work has been completed. If the stabilizer does not tear, it is not a tearaway, but a cutaway. A tearaway adhesive stabilizer should tear easily in all directions. When purchasing a stabilizer, give preference to those that tear more easily. They will make your job easier. It’s better not to use tearaway adhesive stabilizers when doing Walk Stitch or Run Stitch because they are hard to remove from the wrong side. If, for one reason or another, you had to use a stabilizer, tear it away gently on completion, so as not to damage the stitch lines. Storage rules. Store the carefully folded stabilizers in a plastic bag where the sun cannot reach them. Bear in mind that the stabilizer’s adhesive layer may deteriorate in the course of time, and therefore, do not buy the three years supply. Keep to the minimum. Try not to crease the stabilizer, because this will damage its adhesive properties.
  7. Hello, I am new to Photo Stitch and would like to know what stabilizers everyone uses to prevent distortion. I have read use cutaway fused to fabric, use nylon mesh fusible on the 90 degree and then the second one on the 45 degree, use SF 101 stabilizer by Pellon fused on the back - 2 layers if a lot of stitches with tearaway in hoop, expecially if large design and multi hooping. What do you all as experienced digitizers recommend? Thank You For Your Time Pam Newman
  8. I am embroidering puff onto a baseball cap (Hawk Head) design. Using a tearaway stabilizer and 2mm puff. I am experiencing a problem with the final sew out where the design is pulling in (concave) the area of the design on the front of the hat. Get the same happening on other puffed designs also. Using a Pantogram 1501 single head machine. Looking for suggestions as to what I may be doing wrong. Ideas?
  9. Im trying to embroider on a knit t shirt. I tried medium stabilizer underneath the shirt with wash away on top and it still bunched and separated. What can I do?
  10. You have a pic of a full front panel photo stitch wolf on a t shirt. May I ask how you stabilized it specifically. Type of backing, single or multiple layers or types. Spray tack or any other special handling. How heavy is the final presentation? I have been working on a light fashion t and am having hard time not getting push pull distortions and puckering even with med/heavy fusible backing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Really impressed with the idea, but want as light an end result as possible for the combo of high stitch density and light t shirt. Thanks in advance. Running Melco EMT16 and 11 3/4 x 17 hoop. I am really wanting to end with the lightest result that is feasible. I am open to suggestions including slowing speed down to a creep, lightening bobbin/top stitch weights, creative backing combinations, etc. Whatever might have worked for anyone.
  11. Many girls like to play as they are princesses: they take mother’s fancy dresses and shoes with high heels, make complex hairstyle and even makeup and imagine them inside the huge medieval castle. If your daughter or daughter of your friends like these games too she will definitely likes this cute picture of funny princess in pink dress of cartoon style. Little princess embroidery design will be her favorite decoration of clothes or bag.
  12. Hi friends! Today we’ll talk about water-soluble stabilizers by Madeira. I’ll try to show you what they can do and where you may apply them. Madeira has a line of water-soluble stabilizers named Avalon. Therefore, it is not correct to apply this name to all water-soluble products. When we say ‘Avalon’, we mean Madeira, and when we say ‘Madeira’, Avalon is implied. Madeira offers 4 items in that department. They have different properties and functions. Avalon Film A thin semitransparent water-soluble film. To the touch, it is like a plastic bag. This stabilizer can only be used as a topping. It is good for terry cloth, piled fabrics, knits, and fur. You put it on top of your fabric in order to prevent the sinking of the stitches. Avalon Ultra Dense water-soluble film. It looks very similar to the greenhouse covering material. Machine embroiderers use it as a main fabric when creating thin diaphanous laces, such as Battenberg lace or Vologda lace. You hoop the stabilizer, choose a design of a certain kind, and embroider. The dense film is also used for cutwork and Hardanger, where you cut out the holes and then apply the material. Avalon Plus A non-woven material that is also used as a main fabric for the embroidery. Works well for felting, cutwork, and Hardanger embroidery. If you’re making lace and want it to maintain its shape in future, Avalon Plus is the right choice. You hoop the stabilizer and embroider. After the embroidery is completed, the stabilizer is washed away. If you want my personal opinion, I like Avalon Plus more. To me, it seems more reliable, though while I was writing this article, I asked Irina Lisitza, our technology specialist, and she said that for thin laces, she prefers Avalon Ultra because it washes out better. Avalon Fix This one is similar in structure to Avalon Plus, but with an adhesive layer and protection paper cover. It is used as backing for embroidery on very thin and diaphanous fabrics, such as batiste, tulle netting, and organza. In other words, in all those cases where the stabilizer is hard to remove or where it makes the embroidery too dense. The making process is simple. You hoop the stabilizer, cut the protective cover, put your fabric on top of it and do the embroidery. This is all, in a nutshell. Happy embroidery!
  13. I recently got a Brother SE-400 and I love it! I make patches and I managed to make a few before I started to have issues. The original design is below. My first try went like this... (if you can't tell, it's bent like a bowl) This is what it looks like when I flattened it using my fingers... (there's still considerable puckering around the text) Then I tried it again, this time with a lower tension. It started out fine, but by the time it got to the yellow (the third color), it was puckering again. When I tried to do the black, it had puckered so bad the needle was only going down in one spot. It was unable to move. I used 3 layers of iron-on stabilizer and I sewed them together in a desperate attempt to stop the puckering. It's not necessarily that the fabric around it is puckering, its that the actual DESIGN is. I use medical tape to keep it from sliding around in the hoop. I still have puckering!! What should I do?
  14. Used Mosaic horse embroidery design from our Mosaic collection. A large size and only one color is an excellent choice for commercial embroidery design. You do not need to change embroidery threads more often and lose time. You can embroider everything at once. You do not need a lot of stabilizer. This is an easy and beautiful embroidery design. A large variety in the choice of clothes allows you to create your own unique style, combine and experiment with them. Stylish denim jacket with colorful embroidery on the back, fashionable baseball cap with volumetric embroidery or incredibly beautiful boots - these are the details that emphasize individuality and allow you to be special. What kind of clothes you can do embroidery: denim jackets, vests and jeans; light cotton dresses, sundresses, blouses; leather and suede jackets; medical clothes; special uniform for employees of cafes, restaurants, supermarkets; army and police uniform; baseball caps, caps, panama; bags, shoes and other products.
  15. The quality of machine embroidery is 99% dependent on compliance with the technology - the right choice of stabilizer and the right stabilization, the right choice of threads and design, etc. Information on all these issues will be collected here.
  16. Describe here stabilizer you are using. Help other users make the right choice.
  17. Can someone please give me suggestions for stabilizer to use on dance leotards? They are 90% polyester / 10% spandex, and I'll be embroidering names on them. Thank you,
  18. Version PDF format

    166 downloads

    If you search and explore stabilizers and backing material this guide is best instruction for beginners.
  19. We are doing big designs, we're setting up for the Irish Dance Dress market but doing spinoffs of the designs onto hoodies and sweats. Mainly using the 300 x 300 to 450x480 hoop sizes. The range of fabrics we are trying to set up for is rather large too, anything from woven to stretch knits and even silks and crystal organza. The celtic knotwork and similar open designs also tend to be quite gappy rather than a solid fill so there are many areas of backing left between stitches. For stretch fabrics (hoodies and sweats) we are currently using 2 crossed layers of a directional tearaway obtained from AJS (38g/m2) but it is far from perfect. There is too much stretch when in the large hoops, and it takes ages to tear out afterwards. We are using tensioning stitches (running a 10mm x 2.5 mm pitch steil around the outside of the design area) to improve the stretch problem, but on a recent batch of hoodies the design took 20 minutes to run and the backing took 25 minutes to pick out (incompletely). so far we have found Madeira (of course) and ETC in the UK, but not getting the results I want from the samples of their backings that I've tried. Madiera's tear away goes from not strong enough to hold at 40g (comes out easily, but the stitch tension also tears the backing and the results are too inaccurate) to being hard to tear (pulled on the stitches & fabric too much) and leaving horrible long fluffy fibres at the 50g. We also tried the madeira 100g/m2 AS heat film but still too stretchy for the big hoops and it melted into the fabric when we tried to remove it. The water soluble was fun but not suitable for large hoops or fabrics that would water mark. we've got another batch of samples from the ETC stand at the NEC to try but their samples are never big enough to try in the larger hoops. With a single head in part time use we are not a high volume user so do not want to commit to big rolls unless we know they will work. are there any other backing suppliers and backing types worth trying in the UK?
  20. This is our first time to embroider on 100% silk camp shirts and would like any tips on the best way to do it. Ball or sharp needle? Backing type? etc. Thanks!
  21. I bought Brother PE 770, 6 months ago and I am new to this embroidery business. I have used sticky back stabilizer for those 6 months and it gave fantastic result. While using stick back the bobbin does not catches the top thread. I cleaned it yet I did not receive any result. I need help from you people.
  22. I got Brothers SE 400 and struggling to learn for embroidery. I read lot of them online. I am new to this forum and would like to ask you all about better stabilizers for children's t-shirts. I heard about light, medium and heavy weight. Are they awesome to use? Please let me know.
  23. Version PDF format

    211 downloads

    Tear Away stabilizer instruction by Colleen Skells
  24. Version PDF format

    201 downloads

    Ultra Solvy Water Soluble stabilizer instruction
  25. I have a friend who is a beginner stitcher as I am, but she insist that you do not need to stabilize quilted fabric. I told her you do need it so the design doesn't shift. She doesn't want to waste time attaching stabilizer by ironing on or sticky stabilizer. I think she is just lazy and don't really care how the backside looks after stitching. Can you answer this question for me. I sometime double when stitching lighter weight fabric such as knits and t-shirt fabric.
×
×
  • Create New...