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The Magic of Christmas in your projects

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    Sewing essentials. Double stitched seam

    Sewing essentials: Double stitched seam

    Double stitched seam is one of the basic seams that are used for sewing shirts, swing blouses, jeans, sport trousers, bed linen, etc. If you only have a sewing machine and no overlocker, no need to worry about it. Thanks to the double stitched seam, both right and wrong sides of your garment will look perfect.

    Ready? Let's go!

    Before you start working on the actual garment, find some leftover pieces of fabric and do some tests. In this tutorial, I’ll be using a piece of middle-weight fabric, but keep in mind that double seam is also suitable for delicate fraying fabrics as cheesecloth and batiste. I strongly advise against using it on highly stretchable knits, unless you’re an owner of a coverstitch machine with adjustable differential feed.

    Creating double stitched seam

    • Far left needle position
    • Standard Brother sewing machine presser foot
    • Pink upper thread and turquoise lower thread
    • Blue-colored wavy line on the right side of the fabric

    Put the fabric pieces with their wrong sides together. Stitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge. To get a nice straight row of stitches, use the scale on your standard presser foot.

    Wavy blue lines on white fabric

    Pink upper thread and turquoise lower thread

    Keep the width steady by using a seam guide on your throat plate.

    Row of pink straight stitched alonside blue line

    Scale on embroidery machine

    In the photo, you can see the two details stitched together from the wrong side. Press the seam allowance with an iron. Put the details with their wrong sides together, circumventing the protruding seam allowance. Stitch at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge.

    You can choose a different value if you want. Play with the stitch width, do several test pieces and decide which one works best in your case. For the purposes of this tutorial, I set the values as follows: ready double stitch width 0.7 cm, seam allowance 1 cm (0.3 cm will be “lost” in turndowns).

    Joining stitchline

    Pieced of white fabric under presser foot

    As a result, the wrong side of your garment will look like the one in the photo below. The edge of the fabric is hidden inside the seam allowance. After that, not a single loose thread will escape.

    Pink stitches on the right side and turquoise stitches on the wrong side

    7 mm seam allowance

    Press the seam allowance with an iron. Right (the photo above) and wrong sides (the photo below).

    Flattened seam right side

    Flattened seam wrong side>

    Now all that’s left is to add a finish. It’ll kill two birds with one stone: secure the seam allowance on the wrong side and serve as a decoration. You may add one or two lines of decorative stitches.

    If you chose the latter of the two options, place the fabric under the foot and stitch the first line of decorative stitches at a distance of 0.25 cm from the joining stitchline. For the sake of convenience, you may draw a line with an erasable pen on the foot itself (see the photo).

    Erasable pen marking on presser foot

    Or, you may skip this and proceed to the second line of decorative stitches.

    Adding first row of decorative stitches

    It will be just as durable, but on the right side, there will be less decoration.

    The second line of decorative stitches should lie at a distance of 0.7 cm from the joining stitchline. Use the scale on your presser foot while doing that.

    Adding second row of decorative stitches

    Finishing double seam

    All done! You now have two parallel lines of stitches on the right side, and three on the wrong side.

    Double stitched seam right side

    Double stitched seam wrong side

    Double stitched seam right and wrong sides

    Double seam

    Double stitched seam ready

    Original text by Irina Lisitsa

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