You’ve probably seen it before — bold, eye-catching embroidery that looks like fabric has been stitched onto a garment rather than filled in with dense thread. It’s stylish, retro-inspired, and surprisingly economical when done right. So what exactly is this embroidery style called?
Short answer: Appliqué embroidery, often paired with tackle twill fabric.
Let’s break it down and get into the details!
So, What Is Appliqué?
Appliqué is an embroidery technique where pieces of fabric are sewn onto a garment and then stitched around the edges. Rather than filling an entire design with thread (which can be expensive and time-consuming), this method uses fabric as the "fill" and thread as the outline or border. The result? A textured, layered look that’s both bold and beautiful.
What's Tackle Twill?
Tackle twill is a type of fabric commonly used in appliqué embroidery. It’s a durable, slightly stiff material (often polyester or cotton) that’s perfect for cutting into shapes and stitching onto hoodies, varsity jackets, and jerseys.
How Does It Work?
Creating a design like the one on that Sunset Book Club hoodie involves a few key steps:
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Design Breakdown: Your design is split into several parts:
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A placement stitch (also called a run stitch) to mark where the fabric goes.
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The twill fabric, pre-cut to match the shapes in your design.
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A zig-zag or tack-down stitch to secure the twill.
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A satin stitch border to finish and polish the edges.
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Cutting the Twill: This can be done with a plotter cutter, laser, or even a Cricut if you’re DIYing.
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Placement: The embroidery machine lays down the placement stitch. You stop the machine, place your fabric using spray adhesive or pre-sticky twill, and then resume stitching.
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Finalizing: The machine finishes off with the zig-zag and satin stitches, locking everything in place.
Pros of Appliqué Embroidery
Cost-Effective – Less thread = lower production costs.
Visual Impact – The contrast of fabric and stitching really pops.
Faster Stitch Times – Especially for large designs.
Customizable – Great for mixing textures, fabrics, and colors.
Tips for DIY Success
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Practice first – Lining everything up perfectly can be tricky.
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Don't remove the hoop – Unless necessary, avoid taking your hoop off the machine mid-design to prevent misalignment.
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Start simple – Try a basic appliqué shape before tackling a big, multi-layered hoodie design.
Final Thoughts
Appliqué (especially with tackle twill) is a fantastic way to achieve high-end, high-contrast embroidery without massive stitch counts. It’s bold, nostalgic, and totally on-trend — a perfect match for maximalist pieces like the Sunset Book Club hoodie.
Whether you're a hobbyist with a Cricut and a dream or looking to scale up for production, appliqué embroidery offers a rewarding creative outlet that blends traditional techniques with modern style.
Have you tried appliqué before? Got any tips or favorite gear? Drop them in the comments below!
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