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diver361 last won the day on July 11

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About diver361

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  1. We understand and agree with your opinion. But the choice of the size falls behind the digitizer. We try to make more people use the projects. I will definitely pass on your position
  2. Version dst, exp, hus, jef, pes, vp3


    Size: 7.58 x 4.04'
  3. Two blue firebirds cross stitch free embroidery design View File Size: 7.58 x 4.04' Submitter diver361 Submitted 07/09/2018 Category Cross stitch machine embroidery  
  4. The correct choice of needle type depends on the type of work you want to do and kind of fabric you use. Fabric type and needle diameter The number in the name of a needle denotes its thickness (diameter) in hundredths of a millimeter or an inch. The greater the number, the thicker is the needle. Some manufacturers may specify two numbers for one needle, e.g. 100/16 and 120/19. This means that the needle size is given both in mm and in inches. An 75/11 needle is 0.77 mm in diameter An 80/12 needle is 0.82 mm in diameter An 90/14 needle is 0.92 mm in diameter An 100/16 needle is 1.02 mm in diameter Fabric type and needle number: highly stretchable knitwear, cloth with added lycra and other elastic materials – 65-90 size needles; lightweight fabrics for shirts, blouses – 60-70 size needles; thin fabrics (batiste, chiffon, crepe-de-Chine, etc.) – 80–90 size needles; cloth, coarse calico, fabric made out of synthetic fibers or cut fibers, for costumes – 80–90 size needles; lightweight woolen fabrics and heavyweight synthetic wool, denim – 100 size needle; heavyweight woolen fabrics – 110 size needle; coarse cloth, beaver fabric, burlap – 120 size needle; heavyweight and extremely heavyweight materials (leather, tarpaulin, etc.), for which the needles should be selected individually. Needle number may vary from 100 to 200, depending on the fabric thickness. Needles may be marked not only with numeric characters but also with letters that denote their application areas, i.e. fabric types and embroidery techniques. Types of needle points for sewing and embroidery How to read and understand needle markings H — universal needles. The needlepoint is slightly rounded; these needles are intended for non-tricky materials, such as linen, coarse calico, cotton, etc. H-J (jeans) — needles for dense fabrics. Being sharper, they will come handy when sewing thick materials such as denim, twill, tarpaulin, etc. H-M (Microtex) — thinner and sharper Microtex needles. They are used for piercing microfiber, thin and tightly woven materials, rain slicker fabrics, coated or not, silk, taffeta, etc. H-S (stretch) — needles for stretchable fabrics. These have a special edge that almost excludes the possibility of skipping stitches while stretching the seam. A round point pushes the yarns apart without damaging them. These needles are used for sewing medium weight knitwear and synthetic elastic fabrics. H-E (embroidery) — embroidery needles. These have a small eye and a slightly rounded point. Besides, these needles have a special scarf that, along with other elements of a needle anatomy, helps to prevent damage to the fabric or threads. They are intended for decorative embroidery, for which special embroidery threads are used. H-ЕM – needles for sewing and embroidery with metallic threads. They have a big polished eye and a groove to prevent metallic threads from splitting. Numbers 80 and 90. No 80 needles for thin fabrics. No 90 needles for denser, heavyweight fabrics. H-Q (quilting) — quilting needles. They are tapered, with a smaller eye and round point in order to prevent skipped stitches and holes on the fabric. These needles are commonly used for decorative stitching. H-SUK (jersey) — round point needles. They easily separate the yarns and go between them, thus avoiding damage the fabric. They are ideal for thick knitwear, jersey and knits. H-LR, H-LL (leather) — needles with a cutting point for leather items. They penetrate fabric at an angle of 45° towards the seam. As a result, you get a decorative seam with slightly inclined stitches. H-O – wing needles. They are intended for decorative seam stitching and hemming with Needlepoint types decorative stitches. Needles of this type have wings of varying width. Wings can be located on one or both sides of the needlepoint. Using them in places where a needle penetrates the fabric several times will enhance the decorative effect. H-ZWI – a twin needle. It is two needles bound together with a holder. It is intended for decorative stitching and pin tucks. Also hemming the edges of knitwear items (there will be a zigzag on the wrong side). These needles come in three sizes (70, 80, 90) and three types (H, J, E) only. The distance between the needles in mm (1.6, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 6.0) is indicated on the package. The higher the number, the greater the distance. 4.0 and 6.0 needles can be used only for stitching straight lines. H-DRI – a triple needle. Only comes in two sizes (2.5, 3.0). This needle works in a way similar to H-ZWI. One should use stitches specially designed for such needles. If one chooses a wrong stitch, a needle may break and damage the machine or traumatize the embroiderer. Topstitch – special needles for decorative stitching. They have a large eye and a large groove for a decorative thread (in order to be visible on the fabric, it must be thicker than a standard one) to easily pass through. If you need to stitch a line with loosely spun threads, this is the best needle for that. Sizes 80 to 100. For lightweight, middleweight and heavyweight fabrics. Needle shank may be color-marked. blue color denotes a needle for denim; purple – a Microtex needle; yellow – a needle for knitwear; red – an embroidery needle. Needle types and purposes Needle type Needle design Purpose Needle # Universal130/705 H Normal point, slightly rounded For almost all types of textiles, fabrics, and knits 60-100 Jersey/elastic 130/705 H-S 130/705 H-SES 130/705 H-SUK Ballpoint Jersey, knits and elastic fabrics 70-90 Leather 130/705 H-LL 130/705 H-LR Cut point All kinds of leather, faux leather, plastic, film, oilcloth 90-100 Denim 130/705 H-J Very slim point Densely woven materials (denim, sailcloth, work clothing) 80-110 Microtex 130/705 H-M Very slim point Microfiber fabrics, silk 60-90 Quilting 130/705 H-Q Slim point Stitching, quilting 75-90 Embroidery 130/705 H-E Big eye, ballpoint Embroidery on all kinds of natural and synthetic fabrics 75-90 Metaphil 130/705 H-MET Big eye Sewing with metallic threads 75-90 Cordonnet 130/705 H-N Small ballpoint, long eye Stitching with thick threads 80-100 Wing 130/705 HO A wide needle with wings Openwork, hemstitch 100-120 Twin-wing 130/705 H-ZWI-HO Special openwork effects 100 Twin 130/705 H-ZWI Distance between the shanks: 1403 / 1404 QE / 1405: 1.0/1.6/2.0/2.5/3.0/4.0 1405 also: 6.0/8.0 Elastic materials hemming, edge stitching, decorative seams 70-100 Triple 130/705 H-DRI Distance between the shanks: 3.0 Decorative work 80
  5. Your hoop 7 x 12 inches - design is bigger. You can also download and try DST format.
  6. What embroidery format you using? Your embroidery machine?
  7. You can try download again.
  8. No high-quality machine embroidery is possible without a stabilizer. Various manufacturers offer a gazillion of stabilizers for any taste and budget. Beginners sometimes feel lost in the midst of it all, now knowing which ones to purchase. Let’s try and figure it out. Stabilizers can be divided into two types: toppings and backings. Backings are intended to shoulder the load during the embroidery in order to avoid puckering, while toppings are used to prevent stitches from sinking – for example, on piled fabric or loosely-knitted items, – and also partly shoulder the load during the embroidery. 1. Tearaway stabilizers These stabilizers are made of cellulose or pressurized paper. They are the ones used most often. They are either hooped together with the fabric or separately, with fabric placed upon it and stitched to hold it in place. Tearaway stabilizers vary in density, measured in g/m2. There is a common belief (a wrong one) that one should pick a lower-density stabilizer for thin fabrics, and higher-density stabilizers – for thick ones. The more support a fabric needs, the denser should be the stabilizer. For example, it’s better to use an 80 g/m2 stabilizer for a capricious satin, while for the dense linen or denim fabric 40 g/m2 will be enough. A high-quality tearaway stabilizer should be easily removed after the embroidery; when crumpled, it becomes soft and flexible, and in water, it should split into separate fibers. For me, at this particular moment, the best tearaway stabilizer is an 80 g/m2 Rainbow Doklas, also a tearaway stabilizer by Vilene; the one by Gunold is not so good. 2. Adhesive tearaway stabilizers They consist of a tearaway stabilizer with a sticky side. They are attached to the fabric by ironing without steam. These stabilizers are intended for holding in place elastic and stretchable materials so that they don’t spread out during the embroidery. Are often paired with a simple tearaway. An adhesive topping prevents the fibers from stretching, and a tearaway backing shoulders the load during the embroidery in order to avoid puckering. Density and quality requirements for such stabilizers are the same as for the ordinary tearaways. Vilene stabilizers have a good reputation. 3. Water-soluble stabilizers These include fusible interfacing and films of varying density. Fusible interfacing is used: ⦁ for cutwork and lace; ⦁ for 3D embroidery; ⦁ where the wrong side should look neat; ⦁ for the embroidery on netting, etc. Density also varies. A high-quality stabilizer should be easily dissolved in water, leaving no traces. It is the one most often used as a backing. Water-soluble films can be thin (20 microns) or thick (about 80 microns). Thin films are used as a topping for piled fabrics (velour, velvet, fleece, terry cloth, etc.) or loosely knitted materials (jersey, knits) in order to prevent stitches from sinking. They are easily torn away after the embroidery, and the rest can be removed by a slightly wet sponge Thin film is used on its own when embroidering lace. Vilene interfacing materials and Gunold water-soluble films have an excellent track record. 4. Heat-away stabilizers Are used in a way similar to the water-soluble, with the fabrics that can be damaged by water (velvet, natural silk and so on). Termofilm Consists of a heat-away film. It’s operating principle is similar to the water-soluble film’s. It is placed on top of the fabric with its grainy side facing down. Iron without steam, moving in circles, will easily remove it. During this, the stabilizers leftovers are rolled into balls that can be brushed off later. Thermogaze A fusible material used a base fabric for creating lace or as a backing. When heated by an iron, disintegrates into tiny fibers that can be removed by a brush. 5. Filmoplast This is an adhesive stabilizer, intended for embroidering of the items and fabrics, which cannot be hooped (leather, fur, small ready items). Filmoplast is hooped separately with a sticky side facing up. A protective layer slightly bigger than the embroidery area is peeled off, and the item or a piece of fabric is attached onto it. One of the disadvantages of this kind of stabilizers is that Filmoplast takes effort to remove. My recommended basic set of stabilizers for beginners: 1. Tearaway stabilizer of a varying density, 2–3 m each 2. Tearaway adhesive stabilizer, 1–2 m each 3. Water-solubles and films, 1 m each Others are bought on demand, depending on the money available. Other machine embroidery consumables Puffy is a puffed up foam used to add volume to the machine embroidery designs. Temporary spray adhesive Necessary for temporarily gluing the fabric to a stabilizer, such as cutaway, or the appliqué material to the main fabric. An adhesive should be sprayed onto a stabilizer, not the fabric, in order to avoid stains. Starch spray Used to stiffen thin or flowing fabrics (chiffon, batiste). A starched fabric is easier to hoop. Sometimes it allows embroidering without other stabilizers. As a result, the embroidery stays soft and flexible. “Clean backing” is an adhesive interfacing material, used to cover the wrong side of the embroidery out of the aesthetic reasons. It is ironed from the wrong side after the embroidery has been completed. I hope that this article will help the beginners to make their first steps or broaden the horizons for the more experienced embroiderers in the colorful world of machine embroidery. Easy stitching to you all!
  9. Please using standard PC or MAC
  10. You can try Embird Editor software. 30 days free trial version. www.embird.com
  11. For a home embroidery machine and embroidery designs, it is recommended to use special machine embroidery needles and also needles for metallics. The needle number should correspond to the thickness of the fabric on which you embroider, i.e. the thinner the fabric, the smaller the number. Always use needles for metallics when embroidering with metallic threads. Due to these needles having a slightly bigger eye and, the metallic thread doesn’t grate against them so much, thus reducing the risk of notch appearance, which in turn leads to looping or thread breakage. Better to run the machine at a low speed when embroidering with metallics. Needles by a German company named Schmetz are well-known. For knits, one is allowed to use needles for jersey and stretchable fabrics. Needles with wings, or winged needles, are used for the openwork-like embroidery. Wings make the microscopic cuts in the fabric. Not all of home embroidery machines are suitable for this embroidery technique. Titanium-coated machine embroidery needles deserve a special mention. Thanks to the highly durable coating, the service life of these needles exceeds the service life of the ordinary ones by several times, and the risk of breaking the needle during the embroidery is significantly lower. Schmetz manufactures such needles.
  12. View File Dreaming girl free machine embroidery design Size: 4.15 x 6.30' Author: tanu 57 Submitter diver361 Submitted 06/28/2018 Category Woman and Girl embroidery designs  
  13. Version dst, exp, hus, jef, pes, vp3


    Size: 4.15 x 6.30' Author: tanu 57
  14. diver361

    Photo Stitch Design

    You need check free embroidery design's size. This is important parameter. Probably your hoop smaller.
  15. Sorry, no you can made it yourself with free embroidery software same as My Editor