cousette31 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Hi list. This took a minute but I have found my way. I need to know how to embroider with foam and the 3d fonts. I have tried it several ways and the foam pops through. The funny thing is when I didn't use any foam it looked great. I would like some foam on the hat, since that is what the customer wants. Any help and suggestions? Thank you in advance, this group has gotten me through my first year and I have nothing but gratitude for all of you. Thank you Quote Link to comment
siv1987 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 As you can tell, I've got a client who wants me to use an existing two letter design and turn it into 3D. Is that possible? I wasn't sure if I could just change the stitch length or something or if the entire thing had to be re-digitized. It is basically 2 letters diagonally spaced. If I have to re-digitize it, how do I make it 3D Puff? Any information would be greatly helpful. Quote Link to comment
Airbrush77 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Sometimes the design can be altered. You need to remember that there needs to be needle penetrations all the way around the shape to cut the foam. This means the open ends of the satin stitch like the ends ot the T need stitches in order to cut or you will have bits of foam sticking out. The density also needs to be double the usual density in order to cut as well. I included a couple of examples of a design I recently did. Notice the overlapping as well to ensure the foam doesn't peak out. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment
Bun Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Every side of the 3D has to be cut. Satin stitches, which are the only stitches that create 3D, don't cut the end of letters like "I" or "L" or "A". You have to add little segments of satin stitches under the ends of the letters to cut the perpendicular to the main stich segment. Takes a bit of fooling around with pull and push and the angles of the little segment. The little segment should be somewhere around the width of the letter needing the end cut and about 1/4 to 1/2 inch into the letter. I make the sides of the cut segment slightly smaller inside the letter as the whole purpose is to to cut foam on the edge of the letter. Many commercial places try to avoid perpendicular cuts by choosing fonts with curly ending or ends that allow stitches to rotate to cover all the lines with cutting stitches. Sorry if I sound indistinct on the cut segments, but I have a Tajima Neo embroidery machine and Tajima Pulse Maestro software and I tend to sew things until all the 3D lines are perfect and the ends are tight. Quote Link to comment
violet Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 If you would like some documentation on sewing foam , I have some examples and some general documentation Quote Link to comment
Gerry Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Hi: Could you please send me this info as well. I have tried 3D several times but have never been 100 percent happy. Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment
Patvh Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 I have lost my cheat sheet from a class I took that tells me what to increase my stitch density to when I am digitizing for foam. Can anyone tell me what the density should be? Quote Link to comment
mmoore114 Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 When I do foam, I like to be setting at 150 or so spi. Tajima Pulse will not double itself density-wise so I go into the master settings of the particular design (File, Design Properties, Master Density) and set it to 98 spi there, then add another 50 or so but I suppose I could simply add it all in one fell swoop in Design Properties. Hope that helps... Quote Link to comment
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