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Openwork on knitwear

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Original text by Katya Ebber 

Having stumbled upon this jumper on the internet, I simply couldn't pass it by. Creation of the design didn't take much time unlike the choice of the materials and the technique compelled me to try several fabric + stabilizer combinations. A cut-away stabilizer proved the most effective: the embroidery maintained its shape even after washing. 

This master-class will tell you how to do openwork embroidery on medium density knitwear with the use of a cut-away backing. 

Materials for this master-class

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  • Spray adhesive 
  • Upper thread 
  • Underthread 
  • Machine embroidery design 
  • Cutaway non-adhesive stabilizer 
  • Filling-knit fabric or ribbed fabric 

Openwork: the making process

Hoop the cut-away non-adhesive stabilizer. Sprinkle it with a temporary spray adhesive and press the fabric to it facing up. 

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Insert your hoop into your machine. Load the design, hit the start button and embroider the first color with the running stitches. 

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After that, the machine makes a stop as if for a color change. Take the hoop off the machine and make incisions in the fabric and the stabilizer inside the closed objects using sharp scissors or a cutting blade. Carefully cut the pieces of fabric and the stabilizer out, keeping close to the running stitch. 

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On top of the fabric with the holes, place a layer of the water-soluble stabilizer. Secure it with a basting stitch or with pins. 

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Insert the frame into your machine and restart the embroidery. The machine will stitch the zig-zag stitch and the finishing satin column. The main part is now finished. 

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You only need to remove the basting stitch, tear away the water-soluble stabilizer and cut the backing along the contour, leaving a small allowance. 

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Your openwork on knitwear is ready. 

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