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Understanding the Floppy Disk Problem
While many have transitioned away from using floppy disks, there are moments when we need to access older information stored on them. However, in doing so, a series of issues may arise. You might encounter messages like:
A:\ is not accessible. The device is not ready. Disk is not formatted. Do you wish to format it now? STOP: The disk media is not recognized; it may not be formatted. Interestingly, these problematic disks may function correctly when used with older operating systems like MS-DOS or Windows 95.
Root of the Issue
The main culprit behind these issues is the absence of a media descriptor byte in the BIOS parameter block (BPB) found in the boot sector of the floppy disk. Historically, many preformatted floppy disks, especially older ones, lacked this media descriptor byte.
The role of the media descriptor is vital as it identifies the type of medium present in a drive. Whereas systems like MS-DOS and Windows 95 didn't require the setting of this byte, modern systems do, which is why we see these compatibility issues arise.
Efficient Solutions
Reformatting: The most straightforward solution is to reformat the floppy disk using newer versions of Windows such as Windows 98 or XP. By doing this, the system ensures the necessary media descriptor byte is present. Advanced Workaround: For those who are tech-savvy and understand the risks involved, there's an advanced workaround. By using a disk sector editor, one can modify the media descriptor byte on the floppy disk. A word of caution: misuse can lead to permanent data loss, so proceed with the utmost care. Tools like DiskProbe (Dskprobe.exe) — included in Windows Support Tools for systems like Windows XP Professional — can be employed for this purpose.
Understanding Media Descriptor Bytes
To delve deeper, here are some common media descriptor bytes:
F0: Represents 2.88 MB on a 3.5-inch, 2-sided, 36-sector, or 1.44 MB on a 3.5-inch, 2-sided, 18-sector disk. F9: Used for 720K on a 3.5-inch, 2-sided, 9-sector disk, and 1.2 MB on a 5.25-inch, 2-sided, 15-sector disk. FD: Denotes 360K on a 5.25-inch, 2-sided, 9-sector disk. And so on... These bytes are located in sector 0 of the disk, providing a hint about the media type and its compatibility.
Final Thoughts
The evolution of technology means some older storage mediums become challenging to access with newer systems. By understanding the root of these compatibility issues and knowing the ways to circumvent them, we can ensure the preservation and access of valuable data, even from antiquated storage methods like floppy disks.
This week we are going to cover Manual Applique, this technique can be reproduced for jobs in production without the use of an inline cutter. All you need is a pair of scissors and some patience.
( This technique is great for those who DO NOT have an i-iline cutter )

Requirements 

You will need the following to make a design like this. 

 - 13-inch Hoop 
 - some felt 
 - some time
 - scissors 
 - digitizing software. 
 - Fabric temp adhesive 

Step 1  Digitizing the design.

Load the design into your program, and plan the design from that point.   I like to add the black background behind the applique letters, You can exaggerate the black lines as the layered applique will hide them, I would also do all the text at this point as well. 


Next, I would add the white, I would use either a run tool or a steel tool to track down the white material. 
Note you will need to make a separate file to cut the material out use the run from the applique to stitch the material out, and then cut it out by hand. 

 I would then digitize the Florida Gator design. I would do the F first with a solid fill and then put the orange over top with a steel border around the F, the green, and then accent it with black.  I would add your pull comp and underlay for the lettering and the gator at .01 percent, full lattice under the whole guy, and then a density of 65 spi.  

For those of you who do not have a digitizing program but would like to sew out this design, I have enclosed the design below. 

Step 2   Manually cutting the design out 

 When you sew the first run down onto the material take your time with very sharp scissors and stay true to the line as close as possible, any deviations from the line may lead to gaps.

Step 3   Hoop your Fabric

When hooping the fabric it's tight enough for the fabric and applique. 

Step 4   Embroidery

Start the embroidery the first color is black and then start the second, it should put down a white placement stitch. Use fabric temp adhesive to hold the fabric in place while the top stitches go down. 

Step 6  Finish the design

Here is what my design looked like, I sewed this on an orange t-shirt, with cutaway backing and used felt for the applique material. 

This technique can be applied to a wide range of designs, but if you had to stitch out this design without the applique for a full sweater you would end up with 80-120 thousand stitches. Large designs can take a long time to sew out, applique can reduce this time as long as you can get the material cut into precise portions. 

I have recently started using flock cut on my vinyl cutter for applique and I have much-improved speed and consistency. it also allows for seamless conversion, I export the file or use the vector file.  
Embroidery Digitizing Borders
This week we will look at digitizing borders for your designs, there are some methods and tools you can use to make the borders with, compensation and underlay types you should be using
Embroidery digitizing methods
There are two types of borders that you will need to make, the uniform border, which is the same thickness around the design, and the variable border which changes thickness.
Uniform Border. This type of border tends to go around patches or similar designs, this border can be made with a steil stitch or a satin stitch 
Variable Border: You will need to use the satin stitch to make the border

Some lower versions may not have the (STEIL) border tool, it looks like so in your software, I have also shown the satin tool. 

There are (2) main methods for making either of the stitches.. (1) the freehand mode drawing the shape manually. and (2) is converting it from artwork. For shapes like circles and very uniform objects, I use vector tools to make the shape and then convert it to stitches, but it will depend on the shape.
Background 
To better understand the different thicknesses, I recommend you sew out a sample of the different stitches on the fabric you digitize to get an understanding of how thick the result will be. 

When sewing your samples out make sure you have some compensation and underlay for the stitches as it will affect the size and clarity of the stitch.  
Embroidery underlay & compensation
When sewing out border stitches or any column stitch it's recommended that you use an underlay that is opposite to the direction of the stitches. This will make the column push out evenly, if you use a zig-zag stitch the column will often become tighter and shrink when embroidering. It's also important to add enough compensation for the shrinkage of the stitch. 
Underlay types
Below is an example of the different underlays that you will have available in your software. 

Border layers
Depending on the design you may want to put your border onto or on the bottom of the design, I often use it to smooth out uneven stitches like in the example below. Fills often leave an unfinished edge and a satin or a steil can clean that up to look smooth. 

When using the border underneath the thickness can be wider and have 3/4 of the border under the design and only 1/4 sticking out to blend with the design. 
When using it on top of the design you will need to make sure it hides the design when embroidered often there will gap between the border and a fill as the push and pull effect, especially in corners. 
Make sure your artwork is clear enough that you can see the borders on the design as it will often dictate whether you put it on top or underneath the logo, some borders are decorative and others are functional. You often will need to sew out the design to gauge the thickness of the border. 
TRICK
I often will add a manual underlay to the fill and the border, this helps prevent the fill from detaching from the border on some sew-outs. See Below. This can be made with the run toll or a complex fill with very low density, I would make this underlay opposite the fill stitches. This causes the underlays to overlap building a better foundation for the top stitches. 
 

This wraps up this blog on adding borders, sewn out the different steil stitches, and keeping it on hand when you digitizing for your logos it will be a great guide. 
I went to customer's shop over the Holidays and he expressed concern that he was having quite a few thread breaks and other issues of late in his shop, I wanted to see why, the designs he has run worked for previously on his equipment and he mentions he having a lot of issues now. I got there and he said they added the screen printing business several months ago to their shop and the printing press is very close to the embroidery area. I said this is a problem.. If it's not causing you issues now it will down the road. When you screen print you often use a lot of aerosol and chemicals which also put a film on items in the environment. I took a look at the machine and the threads on the wall and they all had a film on it. I told him he was treading on disaster, the environment is and will impact his embroidery machine.
Environment in machine embroidery
The environment for any embroidery machine should be as clean as possible as the needles and threads are very delicate. You should be cleaning the machines, tables, and threads areas often as dust will build up in the area and impact your materials, and possibly your garments.

I suggest that you keep the thread in boxes, or clear containers this will help minimize the dust on the threads. Did you know dust on the threads can cause tension issues, gumming up the top threading mechanism, dust can cause thread breaks and even broken needles if the particle is too large for the eye of the needle.
Your machine area should also be cleaned regularly, this means wiping it down, oiling the machine, and making sure it's a clean environment. This will go a long way to helping your machine run smoothly.
Embroidery threads
Depending on the type of thread, and size of thread you use this could also effect your embroidering experience, Most shops use polyester thread and its more durable and generally easier to use. It's a bit stronger than cotton threads and sometimes cheaper. The average thread types for most shops is 40wt  this is the most common size, If you do a lot of small detail or letters you may have 50wt or 60wt thread on hand, if so you will need to be able to change the tension on your machine to accommodate the change, same goes if you use 20wt or 30wt thread you will need to be able to change your tension.
Tension
Everyone needs to know how to adjust their machines but their is a simple test to check the machine, make a column stitch with no underlay or compensation for each needle of your machine, the columns should be a quarter inch thick and each column should be a different color, then sew each column out, flip it over and look at the image below and gauge the tension of each needle.

Now its good leave it alone, if its too tight, loosen it with a quarter turn, if its too loose tighten it with a quarter turn. LEFT LOOSY, RIGHTY TIGHTY is the easiest way to remember your tension guides. Check your machine manual for adjusting the thread on the machine as each machine may be a bit different.
Metallic machine embroidery threads
When working with metallic threads you will also need to loosen your tension as they need a little more give as they often have a fleck embedded in the twine and it doesn't have the same give as a polyester thread. Use the above guide to set your tension for specialty threads.
Needles
When on customer sites I often ask them when the last time they change their needles, and I often get that they break,, A needle can drastically effect the clarity of your work, as well as the sharpness of the design, a dull needle will often tear through the fabric instead of spreading the fibers, this can affect quality, thread breaks, and more,
There are also different tips of the needles, different sizes, and different size holes, which all can impact using threads.
Important Points to Remember
Needles DO NOT last forever, they should be replaced approximately every 8 hours The eye of the needle should be 40% larger than the diameter of the thread When going to a larger size of thread, a larger needle should be used Use the appropriate needle for the type of fabric being sewn   When using metallic thread use a larger-eyed needle 
TROUBLESHOOTING NEEDLE ISSUES

UPPER THREAD BREAKS
Check the upper thread path, tension is incorrect or replace the needle

BOBBIN THREAD BREAKS
Replace bobbin, check bobbin tension, check upper thread path 

SKIPPED STITCHES
Check upper thread path, change needle, do tension test,  check the size of needle

FRAYED STITCHES
Eye of the need clogged or too small, upper thread caught check path, remove a meter of thread, 

THREADS LOOSE ON BOBBIN SIDE
This is often caused by poor tension or improperly sequenced upper thread path. 

BOBBIN THREAD SHOWING ON TOP
This can occur if the bobbin tension is too tight compared to the upper tension, check bobbin tension and upper tension using the tension test.

FABRIC PUCKERING
A design that puckers the fabric can be caused by being poorly digitized, the fabric as nylon tends to pucker, and or can be caused by wrong tension usually too tight of an upper thread tension. Check bobbin tension and make sure you're using the right backing for the material. 

NEEDLE SIZES

Here is a chart of what size of needles work with the different threads.. 

OVERVIEW 

A clean shop and work area will help you and your machine, testing the tension on a regular basis will also help tabs on it to avoid disasters on jobs. If you have not changed your needles and you do a lot of embroidery starting up the New Year you may want to replace them all. 

In machine embroidery digitizing software Tajima DG/ML by Pulse, there is a number of pre-installed embroidery thread charts however there are times when you need to create a custom chart with different thread thicknesses and or colors 
Embroidery Thread Charts and Thread Palettes
Embroidery Thread charts are a collection of thread and color information. Tajima DG/ML by Pulse has thread charts installed that contain information on threads from many thread manufacturers. Threads from a selected thread chart are displayed on the lower right-hand side of the Tajima DG/ML by Pulse workspace. Clicking the plus (+) sign at the edge of the embroidery thread chart list will allow you to change the selected thread chart for the current embroidery design. How this is implemented in practice can be seen in our catalog of Christmas machine embroidery designs. Since it is for festive winter projects the widest palette of thread colors is used.
Creating a New Thread Chart
The Thread Table Editor allows you to create and edit thread charts 1.  Open a new document 2.  Goto Tools , 3,. Click NEW  This will open a new tab , so you can add different threads.   Once your screen opens you can now start to add new threads to your chart. Please note you will need to know what thickness the thread is, they type of thread, the color codes, and Manufacturer info. Normally available on the color thread chart 

4,.   To add a new thread color click EDIT and click NEW THREAD  5,.   Fill in the fields on the screen. 

Name - The name of the new thread color (such as Royal Blue or Snow White)
Manufacturer - The name of the manufacturer of the thread chart that contains this thread.
Code - The manufactures code number for the thread. This is a unique code that manufacturers use to identify the thread. A thread code is usually used to identify a thread when placing an order with the manufacturer.
Thickness - The thickness setting is a number used to define the thickness of the thread. 

 1.   20 wt thread very large thread
 2.   30 wt thread
 3.   40 wt thread default 
 4.   50 wt thread
 5.   60 wt thread Very small

Type - The type setting is used to describe the type of material used to make the machine embroidery thread. Examples are Cotton, Rayon, Metallic, Nylon and Polyester.
Color - There are three different values used to define the color of the machine embroidery thread that is displayed. These values represent the amount of red, green, and blue color that make up the color of the embroidery thread. These values, called RGB, are standard values for representing colors for computers. Clicking the Choose button will allow you to select from a list of basic colors or create a custom color. Once a color is selected, the RGB values for the selected color will be displayed in the color values.
Repeat step 4 until all the colors have been added. 
Saving your Embroidery Thread Chart
When you have added all your embroidery threads now you need to save the file .
5. Goto File, choose SAVE AS , add your file name and it will add it to your charts folder. 
Now prior to accessing the chart you will need to close your Pulse Program and reopen it . 

To Change the chart goto your CHART DOCKER on the Right and find the one named and you can click on any color and add them to your working palette. Enjoy your new chart. 
When embroidery digitizing its very important that you have some artistic knowledge, even though you may not have any artwork background you should be able to look at most designs and determine what should be in the background and what should be in the foreground. This is important as you it will give you an idea of which thread sequence to lay down first so it looks proportional. 
Layers in digitizing machine embroidery designs as it is implemented in practice.
The first thing you need to do when looking at a design is determine the background and foreground sometimes this is very easy and other times it can be more challenging.  On the design below you can see that there is no background but instead, there are just two separate thread sequences, one being orange and one being black on this design it really doesn't matter the sequence it generally will sew well either way. 

The design below has a few different layers, it should be pretty easy to determine what the layers are.

Generally, I ask myself if their pieces I will need to hide traveling stitches, so I do not have to trim and if will it impact the sewing ability of the design. I would normally sew the design from the center out I would start with the maroon color first.

Notice the traveling stitch this will be covered up by the seecond layer. It prevents me from adding a trim to the design. The black layer will go down next.

Now you should not see that traveling line as the black fill has covered the evidence, when ever possible you will need to hide your stitches in the design by layers in front.

The borders can be made on the same level as the text but I have separated them here to show you the different parts. Make sure the satin border is large enough to cover the stitches I recommend perpendicular underlay on borders and absolute compensations at .01 inch.  The final design is below. 

Real examples of how this is implemented by professional digitizers can be seen on real finished works in Cars embroidery designs. These are the most complex embroidery designs, where multi-layered designs are often used to emphasize shadows, curves of body parts, and glare on the windshield. All this requires the use of colors of transition effects from one embroidery thread to another. To create one shadow composition, a minimum of 2-3 layers are required (density from 1.5-1.8)
Layers in a complex embroidery design
This embroidery design has six layers and a lot more detail I first do the items that appear farther into the background, Take a look at this tractor below. Once the design is done then you can add compensation to the embroidery design, and embroidery effects. Imagine the joy of transforming a simple design into a stunning piece of art, where every thread is meticulously placed to create a harmonious and eye-catching masterpiece. 
I Need Help!
Hey everyone! I could use some insight from experienced embroiderers because I ran into an issue that completely threw me off.
I was testing out a new embroidery style on my Janome M17, and everything was going smoothly—until the last 15 minutes of stitching. That’s when I noticed something strange: the bobbin thread started appearing on top of my design.
For reference, my bobbin was still relatively new—only about 3,000-4,000 stitches in, and my machine typically handles 15,000 stitches per bobbin. So, I don’t think it was running out. But what could have caused this sudden change?
Possible Causes and Community Thoughts
I shared my design (both front and back), and I got some great suggestions from fellow embroiderers. Here are some possible reasons why my bobbin thread started peeking through:
Hooping Tension Issues – The top of my hooping looked nice and tight, but the bottom appeared looser. Some suggested that uneven tension might have caused shifting, leading to inconsistent thread pull.
Design Density Change – The stitch density seemed to change in the problem area, and the stabilizer was more wrinkled there. Could it be that the fabric wasn't stabilized well enough?
Bobbin Winding Issues – While it’s less likely, some people mentioned that if the bobbin was wound inconsistently, it might cause tension problems during stitching.
Stabilizer Problems – This is a big one! I floated my sweater using sticky spray, but honestly, this stabilizer felt weak even before the project. Maybe it wasn’t strong enough to support the design?
Machine Jam & Threading Mistake – I did have a moment where the machine jammed because of user error. I skipped a step while switching colors, causing the bobbin to not grab onto the needle properly. Maybe that affected the tension settings?
What’s Next?
Now that I’ve taken a step back, I have a few ideas to troubleshoot:
Re-hoop carefully to ensure even tension
Try a different stabilizer that feels more durable
Check my bobbin winding to rule out any inconsistencies
Make sure my thread path is correct after color changes
I haven’t given up on this design just yet, but I’d love to hear if anyone else has experienced sudden bobbin thread issues mid-project. What worked for you?
Let me know your thoughts! Happy stitching!
Mastering 3D Cap Embroidery: Techniques, Tips, and Troubleshooting
3D cap embroidery is a fascinating art form that adds depth and texture to embroidered designs. If you've ever wondered what makes embroidery "3D" in the first place, the answer lies in the use of foam. By applying a thick foam layer before stitching, the embroidery thread lifts off the fabric, creating a three-dimensional effect.
How Does the 3D Effect Work?
Unlike traditional embroidery, 3D embroidery involves placing a foam layer beneath the stitching. The thousands of needle punctures naturally cut through the foam, making it easy to remove the excess afterward. However, ensuring a clean final product requires applying heat to eliminate leftover foam remnants.
Digitizing for 3D Embroidery
Proper digitization plays a crucial role in achieving a professional 3D embroidery effect. Many experienced embroiderers start with software like Tajima Maestro but eventually transition to more advanced programs such as Wilcom. Digitizing is an essential skill, as it determines the quality, stitch density, and overall aesthetics of the embroidered design.
Satin Stitch Width Guidelines
When designing for puff embroidery, satin stitches should generally be:
Minimum width: 2 - 2.5mm
Maximum width: Up to 20mm or more (depending on the design)
For thinner raised sections in a design, using a smaller needle can improve results. Additionally, employing a simple single-line underlay stitch (or no underlay at all for curved designs) ensures that the final stitches appear clean without unwanted overlaps.
Techniques to Improve 3D Embroidery Results
Heat Gun Treatment: Pre-treating the foam and cap with a heat gun helps achieve a smoother finish, reduces thread breakage, and enhances the quality of the raised embroidery.
Foam Color Matching: To minimize visible foam remnants, match the foam color as closely as possible to the embroidery thread. If only white and black foam are available, white is often the best choice.
Foam Removal Tips: When removing excess foam, pulling it downward instead of upward helps prevent dimples. Additionally, pressing down any noticeable dimples post-embroidery can improve the final appearance.
Needle and Density Adjustments: A 75/11 needle is commonly used, but an 80/12 can sometimes yield better results. Adjusting stitch density slightly lower for 2-2.5mm 3D satin stitches can help achieve a better finish.
Pricing 3D Cap Embroidery
When pricing embroidered caps, consider factors such as:
Quantity: 10 caps per customer
Stitch count: 5,000 - 10,000 stitches
With/without foam: 3D embroidery generally takes longer and requires additional materials, so it should be priced higher than standard flat embroidery.
A good pricing strategy accounts for labor, materials, and machine time, ensuring a fair profit margin while staying competitive.
Best Embroidery Machines for 3D Puff Embroidery
If you’re considering purchasing an embroidery machine, the Janome MB7 is a popular choice but may not be the best for high-quality puff embroidery. Industrial-grade machines like:
Tajima
Barudan
Ricoma
Brother PR Series
are better suited for professional 3D embroidery work. If your goal is to embroider custom sneakers, investing in a machine with a flatbed attachment and high stitch precision is essential.
Conclusion
Mastering 3D cap embroidery takes time, but with the right digitizing skills, machine settings, and finishing techniques, you can achieve stunning results. Have you experienced any challenges or successes with 3D embroidery? Feel free to reach out and share your journey—I’d be happy to offer my insights!
There’s a special kind of heartbreak in sewing—one that sneaks up on you, silent and smug. You’re sewing away, focused, in the zone. Everything is flowing smoothly. You feel unstoppable. And then… you flip the fabric over and see it.
Nothing.
No stitches. No seam. Just the cold realization that you’ve been sewing with a dead bobbin.
Bobbin Chicken: The Unwinnable Game
Every sewist has played this dangerous game at least once (or a hundred times). You watch your bobbin dwindle, knowing you should stop and refill it, but you tell yourself, Nah, I can make it to the end of this seam. The thrill of the risk, the hope of the win—it’s intoxicating.
And then you lose.
Some of us lose in the last four inches, others at the very last backstitch (a transcendent moment, really), and then there are those tragic souls who run out halfway through a long seam. The fabric curls under the presser foot, suspiciously smooth, until—surprise!—you realize you’ve just spent five minutes sewing… nothing.
Signs You’re Sewing With a Dead Bobbin (And Ignoring It Anyway)
A weird little noise. Yep, you heard it. You just chose not to acknowledge it. Oddly smooth stitching. Like, suspiciously smooth. Almost… too easy. Fabric behaving differently. Some say it starts curling up behind the presser foot, as if whispering, Hey, dummy, check the bobbin. The air stitch illusion. That moment when you pull your fabric away, expecting a beautifully stitched seam, and it just… separates. Like magic. But also, like betrayal. The Existential Crisis That Follows
Nothing quite prepares you for the emotional rollercoaster of sewing with an empty bobbin. First, the denial (No, I definitely just sewed that seam). Then, the disbelief (But it felt so good! It was going so well!). And finally, the resignation (Well, I guess I’ll be unpicking air now).
And if you’ve ever run out at the end of a long seam, only to start the next one with the same empty bobbin… you deserve an award for dedication to self-sabotage.
Why Don’t Sewing Machines Have Bobbin Sensors?
Some of them actually do. Fancy machines come with optical sensors and thread detectors. But guess what? People get annoyed by the beeps and turn them off—only to lose Bobbin Chicken anyway. Others ignore them entirely, convinced they can outsmart the machine. Spoiler: they can’t.
But those sensors aren’t perfect either. Lint buildup can block them, causing false alarms (because what’s a sewing project without a little extra frustration?). Some even leave a tiny bit of thread inside the bobbin case before warning you—just enough to keep tension perfect but still make you question your life choices.
The Bobbin Knew You Needed Practice
Look, maybe your bobbin wasn’t betraying you. Maybe it was giving you a gift. A chance to practice your stitches, refine your form, get that muscle memory locked in… without the commitment.
At least, that’s what we tell ourselves to ease the pain.
So the next time your fabric falls apart in your hands and you realize you’ve been sewing air, just remember: You’re not alone. We’ve all been there. And we’ll all be there again.
Because no matter how good you get, the bobbin always wins.
When I first got my Brother PE535, I was excited—like project-planning-at-2AM excited. But that excitement quickly turned into frustration. I hadn’t been able to finish a single project, and at one point, I truly considered selling the machine altogether. She was cute, but she had me ready to give up.

After dealing with bird nests on the back of nearly every design and countless needle breaks, I realized something had to change. Here's the journey that took me from ready-to-sell to finally stitching clean designs—and what I wish I knew from the start.

The Culprit: Bobbin Tension (and a Bit of Thread Drama)
The first thing I learned? If your project is turning into a thread spaghetti nightmare, tension issues are often to blame.
I started by replacing the bobbin case—mine was damaged from all the needle breaks (still don’t know why that happened, but it was clearly a problem). I also tried switching to Brothread 40wt, but I noticed it unwound really fast and the machine pulled way too much thread.
Still, even after replacing the case and rethreading the machine like I was prepping for surgery, the embroidery looked off. The bobbin thread was showing on top like it was trying to steal the spotlight.
That’s when the community came to the rescue.
Understanding Tension: Top vs. Bobbin
Turns out, the tension settings are everything. If bobbin thread is pulling through to the top, it’s usually one of two things:
Your top thread tension is too tight Your bobbin thread tension is too loose In my case? It was definitely the bobbin.
A kind soul in a forum explained that adjusting bobbin tension means turning the tiny screw on the bobbin case (yes, that one!). At first, I was terrified—everyone says “don’t mess with the bobbin case!” But honestly? A small clockwise turn made a world of difference.
After cleaning the bobbin case and tightening that tiny screw just a bit… magic. My stitches started behaving. No more bird nests. No more upper thread looking like it was barely hanging on. Just clean, even embroidery.
What I Learned Along the Way
Here’s what I wish I’d known before nearly giving up on my Brother PE535:
Don’t be afraid to adjust tension—start with the upper dial and go from there. Check your bobbin case regularly—needle breaks can damage it, and buildup happens fast. Not all thread is created equal—while Brothread works for some, I’ve had better luck with brands like Madeira or Sulky. Clean your machine more than you think you should. Lint and loose bits can mess with the entire system. Use test designs to dial in your settings before committing to a big project. If your bobbin thread is showing on top, try loosening your top tension or tightening the bobbin tension (or both, slightly). Don’t feel bad about the learning curve. Embroidery is an art and a science—and no one’s born knowing how to master it. Final Thoughts: You Got This
Embroidery can be frustrating, especially when you're new or things just aren't going right. But once you learn the quirks of your machine (and adjust that pesky bobbin tension!), things really start to fall into place.
To anyone else out there feeling defeated—don’t give up. Ask questions, watch YouTube videos, scroll the subreddits, and remember: every seasoned embroiderer started out confused and overwhelmed too.
I’m finally finishing projects now. And I’m proud to say… I didn’t sell the machine. She stays
Have you had a tension battle with your embroidery machine? What finally worked for you? Drop your thoughts and tips below!
You’ve probably seen it before — bold, eye-catching embroidery that looks like fabric has been stitched onto a garment rather than filled in with dense thread. It’s stylish, retro-inspired, and surprisingly economical when done right. So what exactly is this embroidery style called?
Short answer: Appliqué embroidery, often paired with tackle twill fabric.
Let’s break it down and get into the details!

So, What Is Appliqué?
Appliqué is an embroidery technique where pieces of fabric are sewn onto a garment and then stitched around the edges. Rather than filling an entire design with thread (which can be expensive and time-consuming), this method uses fabric as the "fill" and thread as the outline or border. The result? A textured, layered look that’s both bold and beautiful.
What's Tackle Twill?
Tackle twill is a type of fabric commonly used in appliqué embroidery. It’s a durable, slightly stiff material (often polyester or cotton) that’s perfect for cutting into shapes and stitching onto hoodies, varsity jackets, and jerseys.
How Does It Work?
Creating a design like the one on that Sunset Book Club hoodie involves a few key steps:
Design Breakdown: Your design is split into several parts:
A placement stitch (also called a run stitch) to mark where the fabric goes.
The twill fabric, pre-cut to match the shapes in your design.
A zig-zag or tack-down stitch to secure the twill.
A satin stitch border to finish and polish the edges.
Cutting the Twill: This can be done with a plotter cutter, laser, or even a Cricut if you’re DIYing.
Placement: The embroidery machine lays down the placement stitch. You stop the machine, place your fabric using spray adhesive or pre-sticky twill, and then resume stitching.
Finalizing: The machine finishes off with the zig-zag and satin stitches, locking everything in place.
Pros of Appliqué Embroidery
Cost-Effective – Less thread = lower production costs.
Visual Impact – The contrast of fabric and stitching really pops.
Faster Stitch Times – Especially for large designs.
Customizable – Great for mixing textures, fabrics, and colors.
Tips for DIY Success
Practice first – Lining everything up perfectly can be tricky.
Don't remove the hoop – Unless necessary, avoid taking your hoop off the machine mid-design to prevent misalignment.
Start simple – Try a basic appliqué shape before tackling a big, multi-layered hoodie design.
Final Thoughts
Appliqué (especially with tackle twill) is a fantastic way to achieve high-end, high-contrast embroidery without massive stitch counts. It’s bold, nostalgic, and totally on-trend — a perfect match for maximalist pieces like the Sunset Book Club hoodie.
Whether you're a hobbyist with a Cricut and a dream or looking to scale up for production, appliqué embroidery offers a rewarding creative outlet that blends traditional techniques with modern style.
Have you tried appliqué before? Got any tips or favorite gear? Drop them in the comments below!
We’ve all been there—thread tangled, stitches wobbling like jelly, your design looking more “abstract” than intended. So, if your first embroidered t-shirt didn’t turn out the way you hoped, don’t worry. You're in great company.
A fellow embroiderer recently shared their experience: “Please help! First time embroidering a t-shirt, stitches came out loose and wobbly.”
Let’s break down what likely went wrong—and how to fix it for next time.

1.Your Hooping Was Too Loose
Loose hooping is the most common beginner mistake. If your fabric isn’t taut in the hoop, it shifts as you stitch, causing folds, puckering, and that dreaded wobbly look.
Fix it:
Make sure your cut-away backing is hooped with the fabric, not floating behind it. The stabilizer should be as large—or slightly larger—than the fabric in the hoop to avoid any gapping. Everything should feel snug and drum-tight.
2.Use the Right Stitch Type
Tatami stitch is great for filling large areas, but for small lettering and outlines? Not so much. It tends to make fine details look bulky or loose.
Fix it:
Switch to satin stitch for text and borders. It’ll look cleaner, crisper, and more professional—especially on knit fabrics like t-shirts.
3.Double Up on Stabilizeк
One layer of stabilizer isn’t always enough for stretchy t-shirt fabric. And using the wrong kind? That’s a recipe for disaster.
Fix it:
Use two layers of cut-away stabilizer for better support. And make sure it’s a proper weight—not that super flimsy stuff.
Check Your Needle and Tension
Knit fabrics like t-shirts need a ballpoint embroidery needle—not a sharp one, which can damage the fibers. And don’t forget to check your thread tension! Too loose or too tight will mess up even the best designs.
5.Digitizing Matters—A Lot
As one user bluntly put it: “Biggest problem is the poor digitizing.” Ouch. But true. A poorly digitized file can ruin even a well-hooped project.
Fix it:
Use beginner-friendly, high-quality embroidery designs made specifically for t-shirts. Look for ones labeled for "lightweight knit fabrics" or that include satin stitch lettering and clean underlay settings.
6. Sometimes, the Happy Accidents Are the Funniest
Not everything has to be perfect. One commenter said it best:
“Okay let's be fair though: the hooping and stitch type issues actually accentuate and make the subject matter hit harder.”
Sometimes those little mishaps add charm—especially if your design is meant to be playful or funny.
Final Stitch: Keep Learning!
Every embroidery mistake is a lesson in disguise. So don’t be discouraged. Your first wobbly t-shirt? That’s your badge of honor. Keep hooping, keep stitching, and soon you’ll be creating flawless pieces (or at least intentionally wobbly ones ).
Want more beginner tips and honest stories from the embroidery world? Stick around—we’re stitching through the chaos one thread at a time.
Have a funny embroidery fail to share? Drop it in the comments!
If you're new to embroidery and already watching your wallet take a hit, you're not alone. Behind every beautifully stitched design is a trail of broken needles, stretched-out fabric, and a few (okay, a lot) of ruined garments.
But let’s get one thing straight: every mistake is a lesson. And some of the best embroidery wisdom comes from the biggest fails.
"$70 in and I’ve already stitched the front and back of a hoodie together..."
One beginner, only a month into their embroidery journey, shared how they’ve already racked up about $70 worth of mistakes, including:
A $20 hoodie stitched closed because of careless hooping (we've all done it)
$4 beanies ruined from not using enough stabilizer
$15 leggings distorted by the wrong stabilizer for stretchy fabric
A fluffy blanket embroidered without a knockdown stitch (RIP design)
The golden rule they learned the hard way?
ALWAYS DO A TEST RUN.

“I digitized and stitched a 24-hoop masterpiece… 3 times.”
One brave embroiderer took on a massive challenge: The Golden Tapestry from Anita Goodesign. Instead of quilting, they turned the 24-part project into a multi-hooping marathon on a single 48"x36" piece of fabric in metallic gold thread.
It took hundreds of hours and three full attempts before it finally worked. But now? Hoop alignments don’t scare them one bit.
Lesson learned: Do the impossible once, and you'll fear it less the next time.
“Snag Nab-It saved our $160 bookbags.”
When you can't get perfect tension and end up with thread loops galore, Snag Nab-It is the hero tool you didn’t know you needed. A few slow-downs on the machine speed and that tiny gadget made a world of difference.
The Common Thread: Mistakes Happen to Everyone
From newbies slicing through shirts with scissors, to seasoned pros who’ve messed up $150 jackets, the takeaway is clear: mistakes are part of the game. Whether you're digitizing for hats, tackling slippery fabrics, or navigating a multi-needle machine, something will go wrong.
Even experienced stitchers admit to having a whole box of "oopsies"—ruined items they now use for test runs. It's not waste; it's material for growth

“Every mistake is a lesson. Every mess-up is a tuition fee.”
Many embroiderers don’t even calculate the dollar value of their learning curve. Why? Because they see it like paying for a class. Every needle break, every misaligned hoop, every wasted spool of thread—it’s all part of the education.
And yes, it can get expensive. But the reward? That magical moment when a design turns out exactly how you imagined.
Tips from the Community
Trace before you stitch. Seriously. One user even taped a bright red reminder to their machine: “DON’T FORGET TO TRACE!”
Use scrap fabric or old ruined items to test new designs.
Invest in muslin for cheap, bulk test runs.
Slow down your machine speed to avoid looping.
Upgrade when you're ready. A machine with a scanning bed helped one embroiderer align complex designs with confidence.
So... How Much Have You Spent Learning?
Whether it’s $70 or thousands, everyone has their “oops” story. But each one brings you a little closer to mastery.
Share your biggest embroidery fail.
Got a photo of a disaster (or a hard-earned success)? Post it!
Let’s celebrate progress—one stitch (and mistake) at a time.
How to Prevent Embroidery Mistakes on the Brother PR680W: Hoodie Hooping Tips & Real Talk
Ever ended up stitching your hoodie to itself on the Brother PR680W? You’re not alone—this common mishap is a rite of passage in the machine embroidery world. Let’s talk about why it happens, how to avoid it, and how a few clever hacks can save your next stitch-out.

What Went Wrong Brother PR680W?
The image above is a classic case of the fabric underneath the hoop getting caught by the needle. It’s frustrating (and usually fixable), but always a learning opportunity. The cause? Usually operator error—missed steps in prepping and securing fabric.
Best Hoodie Placement on the PR680W
Let’s be honest: hoodies are bulky, stretchy, and can be tricky to manage. Here's the most effective placement strategy:
Hoop the area you want to embroider—just the top layer of fabric.
Roll up the excess hoodie material all around the hoop.
Secure everything away from the needle path using:
Blue painter’s tape
Binder clips
Curved safety pins
Thread spool savers (yes, really—they double as hoop clips!)
Flap or fold the back/bottom layers upward, so nothing sneaks under the hoop.
Check under the hoop—run your hands around the needle plate and underside before you press start.

Pre-Flight Checklist Before Pressing Start
Treat every hoodie stitch-out like launching a plane. Here’s your go-to checklist:
Is the fabric hooped smoothly with no wrinkles?
Is ALL the excess hoodie material rolled up and taped or clipped?
Have you run a trace function multiple times to see if anything snags?
Did you sweep underneath the hoop to feel for loose fabric?
Are you watching the first few stitches like a hawk?
Pro Tips from Fellow Stitchers
These were too good not to share:

Made a Mistake? Here's What to Do
If your hoodie got stitched to itself, all is not lost:
Use a stitch eraser (or a very sharp razor) to cut the bobbin thread from the back.
Gently remove the stitches and clean up the fabric.
Wash and dry as usual—it may still be usable!
Final Thoughts
We’ve all been there. Even with fancy multi-needle machines like the Brother PR680W, operator awareness is everything. Don’t beat yourself up. Every mistake is a step toward mastery.
Got your own hoodie hack or hilarious fail? Drop it in the comments—let’s learn from each other!
Would you like this formatted for a website blog or newsletter? Or want a printable checklist for next time you're hooping a hoodie?
Help! My Embroidery Machine Keeps Jamming – What I Learned and What to Do
If you’ve ever sat down to embroider and ended up nearly in tears over thread nests, jamming, or tension issues—welcome to the club. I’ve had my embroidery machine for about a year and a half now, and lately, it’s been giving me a serious headache. No matter how much I adjust the tension, it just keeps jamming. At first, I blamed the file digitization, but even an old design I’ve used before jammed. That’s when I realized: it might be time for a deeper look.
Here’s a rundown of what happened, what I tried, and what I learned from the embroidery community (and a few kind souls who clearly know their stuff).
The Mystery of the Constant Jams
It started subtly—occasional issues here and there—but quickly escalated to full-blown chaos. The top thread would bunch up underneath the fabric, right in the needle hole, forming what many call a “bird’s nest” or more technically, thread nesting.
I changed the needle. Then I changed it again. And again. (Twice in one hour )
I fiddled with the upper tension, bobbin tension, rethreaded everything, but nothing worked.

Diagnosing the Problem
Here’s what I learned through trial, error, and talking with others:
1. It’s Called Nesting – And It’s Not Always About Tension
Nesting happens when the top thread gets caught or doesn’t pull through properly. Despite what many assume, it’s not always a tension issue. If the thread isn’t breaking but is bunching, it’s likely something else.
2. Time to Clean and Oil
One of the best tips I received was to take off the throat plate, use pressurized air to clean out the lint, and shine a flashlight down there to check for stray threads. Oil every recommended spot on your machine, especially if it’s been a while.
3. Inspect for Damage
If you’ve had a bad jam, you might have a needle strike that damaged the underside of the needle plate, the bobbin case, or the rotary hook. These tiny dings can catch the top thread and start the whole nesting nightmare again.
Use a cotton ball to run across all those surfaces. If it catches anywhere, you may have a rough spot causing the jam.
How Often Should You Service Your Machine?
This was one of my biggest questions, especially since I’m getting ready to launch a small business selling custom shirts and sweatshirts. Here’s the consensus:
Once a year is the standard for routine servicing, assuming no problems.
If you’re running your machine frequently (say, over 5–10 million stitches a year), you may need to service it more often.
Just like a car, preventative maintenance—cleaning, oiling, replacing worn parts—protects your investment.
Final Thoughts: Know Your Machine
I’m using a single-needle Brother dual embroidery and sewing machine, and while I’m no expert, I’ve learned this: take the time to really get to know your machine. Clean it regularly. Oil it when needed. Keep a stash of fresh embroidery needles. And when things start acting up? Don’t ignore it—investigate.
Sometimes it’s a quick fix, sometimes it needs professional servicing. Either way, keeping your machine in top shape is crucial—especially if you’re stitching for business.
Got your own jamming horror story or fix-it tip? Drop it in the comments—I’d love to hear what’s worked for you!
Recently, I was asked to recreate an embroidery design for a client who used to outsource their patches but now wants to support local makers. It sounded simple enough—just reproduce an existing 2.25-inch patch. I’ve done similar work before, so I figured I’d digitize it myself and get stitching.
Cue: frustration.

No matter how many adjustments I made to the file or tweaks I tried on the machine, I couldn’t get it to look as clean and professional as the original version. The fill stitches looked okay, and tension wasn’t the issue (I double-checked needle gauges and everything), but the lettering—especially at the bottom—just wouldn’t cooperate.

So... Is It Me? Or Is It My Machine?
At a certain point, I started to wonder if the real issue was my Ricoma machine. It seems like it's just not built for super fine lettering, especially when it gets down to those 2-inch patch sizes. I know machines have their quirks, but when your file looks great on screen and stitches out like a mess, it’s enough to drive you up the wall.


The Community Weighs In: Actual Life-Saving Tips
Thankfully, I wasn’t alone in this. I reached out and got some solid advice from folks who've been in the same boat:
1. Design Size vs. Font Size
Even though the patch is 2.25 inches (which matched the original), that still doesn’t leave a lot of space for clean, crisp lettering. Fonts get tricky fast when they drop below a certain size, especially if you're using standard 40wt thread and a 75/11 needle.
2. Stitch Strategy Tweaks
For the yellow outline around “Penn”, instead of outlining it literally, try making a wider fill base and letting the white letters overlap slightly.
Add or adjust pull compensation: set it between .010 and .012 for better coverage.
Don’t skip underlay, even for thin elements like ribbon lines. A single run underlay can stabilize the stitches and reduce distortion.
Bump density to .014 for words like "Construction" or "Comprehensive Design" that sit on curves or small spaces.
3. Small Fonts Need Special Tools
For really fine lettering:
Use 60wt thread (Gunold is a favorite for this).
Switch to a 65/9 needle for better control and less distortion.
Increase density slightly (around .011) to help with clarity.
4. Removing Underlay Isn’t Always the Fix
I was removing underlay from thinner text elements because it was getting messy, but without it, things didn’t look much better either. Sometimes, the messiness is a sign the design just needs more support—not less.
On the Topic of Outsourcing: A Learning Perspective
I got a few suggestions to outsource the digitizing entirely—just pay the $25 and be done with it. And honestly, I get that. Sometimes, it is the smartest path.
But here’s where I stand: I already spent a year having my designs digitized professionally. I’ve studied every stitch from those files, reverse-engineered how they’re built, and have been digitizing my own work for over a year and a half now. Most of the time, the results are solid. But these patch-style designs really push the limits, and that’s exactly why I want to do this myself.
I have the time. I have the drive. And this project gives me a chance to truly figure it out—not just imitate the look, but understand the logic behind it.

A Reminder to Fellow Creators
If you're in the same boat—frustrated with inconsistent results and tempted to throw in the towel—you're not alone. Sometimes, the hardest projects are the ones that push your skills to the next level. Take the feedback that helps, ignore the noise that doesn't, and give yourself space to improve.
At the end of the day, I’m not just trying to make this patch. I’m trying to master the craft.
Have you wrestled with small fonts, tricky underlays, or machine limitations? Drop your thoughts below or send me your go-to fixes. Let’s keep learning together, one stitch at a time.
My First Embroidery Machine Project: Why the Front Looked Terrible (But the Back Looked Great!)
Hi there! I'm brand new to the embroidery world, and I recently gave my very first machine embroidery a try using my Brother SE700. I was super excited, but... let’s just say, things didn’t go exactly as planned.
I used:
Simthread 40wt embroidery thread on top
Simthread 60wt embroidery bobbin thread
Sulky Cut Away Plus Midweight stabilizer
The result? The front looked awful—loose, gappy, and uneven—while the back looked amazing… as if it was meant to be the front! Totally confusing, right?
Take a look:


My Embroidery Looked Backwards?!
I tried adjusting the top tension (each “B” in my test has a different setting), but nothing fixed it. The middle bar of the “B” even looked like it wasn't attached to the vertical stroke.
I had no idea what was going wrong. I started wondering things like:
Did I hoop my fabric upside down?
Could the design file be corrupted?
Was the machine trying to stitch from the wrong side?!
The online community (thank you amazing folks!) chimed in with some solid tips, hilarious theories, and reassuring support. Here's a breakdown of what I learned.
Top Lessons I Learned (So You Don’t Have to Go Crazy Like I Did)
1. Tension Matters... A LOT
Several people pointed out that my bobbin tension was likely too loose. That would explain why all the bobbin thread was being pulled up and dominating the front.
Fix: Tighten your bobbin tension in tiny increments. A quarter turn clockwise on the tension screw is a safe place to start.
2. Thread Weight Differences Count
Using a 60wt bobbin thread and a 40wt top thread is totally normal—but it means your tension has to be dialed in perfectly. The thicker 40wt should dominate on top, but if the bobbin tension is too loose, the thinner thread will get yanked to the surface.
3. Threading Must Be Perfect
Yep—rethread the machine from scratch. Make sure your presser foot is raised when threading so the thread goes through the tension disks properly. A lot of machines won’t apply correct top tension if this step is skipped!

4. Double Check Your Bobbin Direction
Several people mentioned that a backwards bobbin can cause major chaos. So if you’re seeing weird results, reinsert it carefully and make sure it’s turning the correct way in the case.
5. Stabilizer Is Your Best Friend
Turns out, I got drastically different results depending on whether I used stabilizer or not. When I skipped it? Disaster. When I used it? Much better!
Always use stabilizer (especially as a beginner!) and consider topping it with a wash-away if you’re working on stretchy or textured fabric.
The Verdict?
It was a mix of things: bobbin tension, thread weight difference, and possibly threading mistakes. But now I know, and I hope this helps you avoid the same frustrations.
Most importantly, if your embroidery looks better on the back, don’t panic—you’re not crazy. You’re just learning, and we’ve all been there.
Thanks to everyone who helped troubleshoot—I genuinely would’ve gone nuts without you
Have you ever had a similar embroidery fail?
Share it in the comments—I’d love to hear your story (and feel a little less alone ).
Happy stitching,
A New Embroidery Addict
When Totoro Goes Wrong: Thread Tension Troubles in Machine Embroidery
A Stitch Too Far: The Cursed Totoro Incident
If you've ever looked down at your embroidery mid-stitch and gasped at the unholy creature being born beneath your needle — you’re not alone. One user recently shared their struggle with a “cursed Totoro,” complete with red bobbin thread showing through where it definitely didn’t belong. While their choice of bobbin color made the issue vividly clear, the real culprit turned out to be a classic embroidery challenge: thread tension imbalance.

Tug of War: Top Thread vs. Bobbin Thread
Think of embroidery tension as a tug-of-war. Your bobbin thread and top thread are constantly fighting for control — ideally meeting somewhere in the middle of your fabric. But when that balance is off, it shows. Literally.
If your bobbin thread is showing on top, two things could be going wrong:
Your top thread tension is too tight (it’s winning the tug too easily).
Your bobbin tension is too loose (it’s not pulling its weight — pun intended).
In our Totoro tragedy, the bright red bobbin thread overpowering the white top thread was a telltale sign of tension trouble.
Diagnosing Tension Issues: Rule of Thumb?
Here’s what experienced stitchers recommend:
Try adjusting one thing at a time. Start with the top tension. Loosen it slightly and stitch a single letter (like an “I” or “H”) as a mini test.
If that doesn’t help, check your bobbin tension. Many bobbin cases have a tiny screw — a quarter turn tighter may be all you need.
Always make sure your bobbin is threaded and inserted correctly. It should pull the thread in a lowercase "p" shape — “p” for put it in!
Secret Weapon: The Tension Gauge
Not sure how much is too much tension? Enter the tension gauge — a handy tool that lets you measure the tension on both your bobbin and top thread. These come in both analog and digital versions and are surprisingly affordable.
Madeira’s website offers a range of options, but you can also find similar tools on Amazon and other online embroidery suppliers. For beginners, a cheaper analog gauge does the trick just fine.

Bonus Tip: Thread Weight Matters!
Another often-overlooked culprit in tension chaos? Mismatched thread weight.
In this case, the red bobbin thread appeared to be heavier than the top thread, which made it more dominant and harder to keep hidden. Make sure to:
Match thread weight where possible.
Check the labels — most threads have their weight printed on the spool.
If unsure, eyeball the thickness and avoid big mismatches unless you're experienced.
One Last Word on Color…
Yes, the red bobbin thread was used on purpose to make the issue easier to spot — but it’s worth noting that matching thread colors (or at least coordinating them) makes a big difference in how forgiving your stitch-outs will look.
And hey — winding bobbins might be annoying now, but it gets easier with time. Promise.
Conclusion: Don’t Curse Your Totoro Just Yet
Embroidery is a beautiful mix of art and precision, and every “cursed Totoro” is just another learning step on the journey. With a little patience, a few tension tweaks, and maybe a tension gauge or two, you’ll be on your way to creating embroidery magic — not mayhem.
Embroidery Dreams on a Budget: What Machine Should I Choose?
So you're ready to dive into the creative world of machine embroidery — customizing hoodies, adding flair to jeans, personalizing snapbacks, or even stitching unique designs onto your pup's harness. But the question is: which embroidery machine should you start with?
You’re not alone in this journey — many beginners are asking the same question, especially when working with a budget around €1000. Let’s walk through some honest advice and user experience shared by hobbyists just like you.
What Do You Want to Embroider?
First, think about your goals:
Hoodies & Jeans: These need a machine that can handle thick fabrics and large designs.
Snapbacks: These are more challenging due to their structure — single-needle machines might struggle here.
Dog Harness/Collars: A small hoop or free-arm functionality helps for tight or narrow areas.
Custom Designs: You'll want a machine that allows importing your own digital embroidery files (usually .PES, .DST, .EXP formats).
Real Advice: Hoop Size Matters
This is a golden rule. A larger hoop means you can create bigger and more versatile designs without splitting them into multiple files. For beginners, it’s frustrating to constantly re-hoop.
Minimum recommended hoop size: 5x7 inches
Ideal hoop size for versatility: 6x10 or 7x11 inches
One User’s Experience: Poolin EC05 vs. EC06
Poolin embroidery machines are gaining popularity for their affordability and performance. The EC05 is a great budget option but has a narrower hoop width which might feel limiting for hoodies or back pieces. The EC06, slightly above your budget at €1,400 regular price, offers more workspace and flexibility.
Tip: Check for direct sales on Poolin’s official site — they often include tax and sometimes even free shipping.
Snapback Warning: Single-Needle Limitations
Snapbacks and structured hats are notoriously tricky for single-needle machines. Multi-needle embroidery machines handle these much better thanks to their tubular arms and cap frames.
However, if you're sticking to a budget, you can still do snapbacks with some creative workarounds — just prepare for a learning curve.

What to Look for in a Beginner Machine:
Hoop size: As large as your budget allows
USB or Wi-Fi import: So you can use your own designs
Sturdy frame: For thick fabrics like denim or canvas
Reliable support and community: Look for brands with active forums, tutorials, and troubleshooting help
Software compatibility: Make sure it works with digitizing programs like PE-Design, Embrilliance, Ink/Stitch, etc.
Good Beginner Machine Options (Within or Near €1000)
Machine Max Hoop Size Price Range Notes Brother SE1900 5”x7” ~€900-1000 Great entry-level combo sewing/embroidery machine Poolin EC05 4”x9.25” ~€589-800 Affordable, decent hoop size, limited width Poolin EC06 7”x11” ~€1400 Bigger hoop, worth saving up for Janome Memory Craft 400E 7.9"x7.9" ~€1000-1200 Dedicated embroidery-only, high-quality Final Thoughts: Choose Based on Your Projects
If your primary focus is customizing clothing and accessories with your own designs, aim for a machine that:
Accepts your file formats
Has a hoop large enough for hoodies and jean pockets
Can handle thick layers and small areas (like collars)
Even if snapbacks are trickier at first, you can always grow into it — many creators start simple and upgrade later.
What’s Next?
Explore second-hand deals or seasonal discounts
Start learning digitizing software — it’ll unlock your creative potential
Join embroidery forums and subreddits for support and inspiration
And remember: whatever machine you choose, the real magic comes from you — the artist behind the stitches.
Barudan Not Catching Bobbin on Three Out of 15 Needles? Here's What to Check
Running a 15-needle Barudan can feel like piloting a spaceship—when it works, it’s magical. But when three out of those 15 needles suddenly refuse to catch the bobbin thread? It becomes a test of patience, tension, and sanity.
A user recently shared their experience, and if you’ve found yourself in a similar bind (literally), you’re not alone.
The Problem
Sound familiar? The photo (attached above) shows thread buildup right under the bobbin case — a classic symptom of a few potential culprits.

Step-by-Step Diagnostic Checklist
1. Threading Direction – Double and Triple Check
It might seem basic, but threading incorrectly is the most common cause. On Barudan, the thread must follow a specific path — one user mentioned they looped thread from the back instead of the front and nearly replaced their rotary hook!
2. Clean the Bobbin Area Thoroughly
Thread debris, lint, or even stray thread tails can prevent a clean pickup of the bobbin thread. Remove the bobbin case and give it a solid clean — especially around the rotary hook.
3. Check Needle Bar Height (Needle Penetration Depth)
Since it’s only some needles, chances are good the needle bar height is slightly off on those specific heads. If the needle isn’t going deep enough into the bobbin hook’s path, it simply won’t catch the thread.
On some Barudan models, adjusting the needle bar means opening the machine and adjusting the stacker bar (often located behind the front plate). Only attempt this if you're confident or have the manual on hand.
4. Needle Type and Damage
Double-check that you're using the correct needle type for your Barudan and that they’re not damaged or slightly bent. Even a slight curve can throw off the hook timing.
5. Rotary Hook Timing
While rare, if everything else checks out and the issue persists, it may be a hook timing issue. However, since it’s only 3 out of 15 needles, this is unlikely to be the root cause unless the rotary system is misaligned in specific zones.
Pro Tip: Adjust One Needle First
If you're considering adjusting the needle bar height, try it on just one faulty needle head first. That way, you can see if it resolves the issue before making adjustments across all three.
As one tech-savvy embroiderer put it:
Helpful Tools & Manuals
Your Barudan service manual (usually available in PDF format)
Flathead screwdrivers, Allen keys, and a flashlight
Phone camera (to document positions before you change anything)
What This Looks Like
Photo: Thread bunching under the bobbin case
In the attached image, you can clearly see where the thread is building up and failing to loop. This is what an un-caught bobbin thread looks like—messy, loose, and a nightmare for clean stitches.
Final Thoughts
Embroidery machines can be fussy, especially high-speed, multi-head units like Barudan. When bobbin catch issues strike on just a few needles, it's almost always mechanical—needle height, threading, or cleanliness.
Have you ever had this issue? How did you fix it? Let us know in the comments or share your photo story!
Machine embroidery on sweaters and knitted garments opens up beautiful possibilities — cozy monograms, delicate florals, or whimsical designs. But due to the stretchy and looped nature of knit fabrics, special care is needed to avoid distortion or sinking stitches. Here’s a complete guide to getting professional, long-lasting results.
Understanding the Nature of Knit Fabrics
Knits are stretchy, soft, and textured. While this makes them incredibly comfortable to wear, it also poses challenges for embroidery:
They stretch easily, especially side-to-side.
They can snag or distort if hooped too tightly.
Stitches may sink into the fabric without proper support.
That’s why preparation is key.
Choosing the Right Embroidery Design
When working with knits and sweaters, design choice matters more than ever.
Best Design Types:
Low-density designs (less filled areas)
Sketch-style or outline designs
Watercolor or hand-drawn effects
Avoid:
Dense, heavy fill designs that may pucker or distort
Small text or overly detailed logos (especially on looser knits)
Stabilization Is Everything
Stabilizers are your best friends when embroidering on stretchy materials. For knits, you’ll usually need a combination of top and bottom stabilizers.
 
 Recommended Setup:
Bottom stabilizer: Medium-weight cut-away or tear-away (cut-away is better for stretch)
Top stabilizer: Water-soluble film (WSS) or heat-away film to prevent stitches from sinking into the loops
Hooping & Fabric Preparation
Knits should never be hooped tightly like woven fabric. That could stretch them out and cause distortion once removed.
Use temporary adhesive spray to attach fabric to stabilizer before hooping
Consider floating the fabric (hoop just the stabilizer and stick the fabric on top)
Use magnetic hoops when possible — they’re gentle on knits
Don’t:
Overstretch the fabric in the hoop
Embroider without a top stabilizer on sweater textures
Needles and Thread
Using the right needle prevents damage to the fabric’s loops.
Needle: Ballpoint (jersey) needles – they glide through without piercing the loops
Thread: Polyester or rayon embroidery threads – strong yet soft enough for knits
Finishing Touches
After the embroidery is done:
Remove the top stabilizer with warm water or heat (depending on type)
Carefully trim the excess cut-away stabilizer from the back
Steam or press lightly with a cloth on top (don’t iron directly!)
Which Knits Are Best for Embroidery?
Knit Type Embroidery Friendly Notes Cotton Jersey Yes Stable and easy to hoop French Terry Yes Use top film for loops Chunky Sweater Knit With care Needs extra stabilizer, avoid dense designs Acrylic Knit Yes Watch heat when pressing Wool Blend Knit Be gentle Can felt with heat or dense stitching Final Thoughts
Embroidering on sweaters and knits is incredibly rewarding — just imagine cozy holiday sweaters, personalized gifts, or fashionable statement pieces. With a few adjustments in your materials and technique, your embroidery can look flawless and last a long time.
Embroidery on Leather: Techniques, Tips & Machine Advice
Embroidering on leather or faux leather can add a luxurious and personal touch to clothing, bags, upholstery, car accessories, and more. But leather is unlike any other embroidery surface — it stretches, doesn’t heal from needle punctures, and demands a special approach. Here’s everything you need to know for beautiful, lasting results.
Key Considerations When Embroidering on Leather
1. Always Stabilize Your Material
Leather is flexible, which means you must stabilize it. Use fusible interfacing or a high-quality cutaway stabilizer. This prevents puckering and distortion during stitching. Faux leather typically comes pre-backed, but verify before starting.
2. Hoop With Care
Traditional hoops can leave marks on leather. A border frame is ideal: hoop the stabilizer alone, then float the leather on top. Secure it with temporary fabric spray or double-sided tape. Be mindful of the hoop's depth — leather plus interfacing is thick!
3. Digitize With Leather in Mind
Leather embroidery requires lower stitch density to avoid tears. Avoid overly dense fills, short stitches, and excessive trims. Light, airy designs — like line art or sketch-style — tend to work best.
4. Embroider on a Flat Surface
Don’t let your hoop hang! Heavy leather or thick materials can sag if unsupported. Always embroider on a flat table to maintain accuracy.

What Thread and Needles Work Best?
Thread: Use high-strength polyester thread — it’s more durable and flexible than rayon, perfect for tough surfaces.
Needles: A size 80 embroidery needle is typically recommended for leather.
Metallic Thread: If you're using metallics, reduce tension and follow all standard leather guidelines.
Which Machine Handles Leather Best?
When it comes to leather embroidery, you need a machine that’s built for strength and stability. All Ricoma embroidery machines are optimized for heavy materials and offer professional results on both real and faux leather.
Embroidery on Tulle and Organza: Techniques for Sheer Success
Machine embroidery on delicate fabrics like tulle and organza may look intimidating, but with the right approach and machine setup, the results can be stunning. These lightweight, transparent materials are often used in bridal wear, evening gowns, accessories, and home décor — and embroidery can elevate them beautifully.
Can You Embroider on Tulle or Organza?
Yes! Even sheer mesh fabrics like euro-mesh, netting, or tulle can be embroidered successfully. Despite their fragile appearance, these fabrics can hold embroidery stitches when treated correctly.

How to Digitize a Design for Tulle or Organza
Creating embroidery files for tulle requires special attention:
Avoid tiny stitches
The minimum stitch length must be longer than the holes in the mesh. For example, if your tulle has a 1mm grid, don’t use stitches smaller than 1mm — they won’t hold.
Use light stitch density
Dense fills can tear or warp sheer fabric. Choose airy, minimalistic designs like redwork, sketch-style, or straight stitch outlines.
Limit trims and color changes
Each trim increases the chance of shifting or pulling. Ideally, your design should flow from start to finish without stops or thread cuts.
Watch your stitch length
Don’t use stitches that are too long either — they can create loops or distortion.
How to Embroider on Tulle or Organza
Once your design is ready and transferred to your embroidery machine, follow these preparation steps:
When to Use Stabilizer
Small and light designs:
You can embroider directly on tulle without any stabilizer.
Large or dense designs:
Use a water-soluble stabilizer or film underneath. It provides support during stitching and disappears afterward, leaving your sheer fabric intact.
Proper Hooping Technique
Avoid pulling the tulle too tight — over-tensioning distorts the weave.
If needed, secure the fabric edge inside the hoop with clips, double-sided tape, or fabric adhesive.
Press the hoop gently but firmly — tulle is slippery and may need reinforcement around the edges.
Pro Tips for Success
Always test your design on a fabric scrap first.
Choose sharp embroidery needles (size 70 or 75).
Use fine polyester or rayon thread for best results on sheer fabric.
Want Fewer Thread Breaks and a Smoother Thread Trimmer? It’s Easier Than You Think!
Every embroidery machine operator should follow a regular maintenance schedule—both daily and weekly. And when it comes to performance, this is not just a recommendation—it's a necessity.

The Hook Assembly Needs Daily Attention
The hook assembly is one of the most critical parts of your embroidery machine. It plays a direct role in stitch quality and overall machine operation. Keeping it clean and properly oiled can help you avoid many common embroidery issues.
What Happens Without Maintenance?
Dust, stray threads, stabilizer residue, and fabric lint accumulate quickly in the hook area. This buildup:
Reduces stitch accuracy
Causes frequent thread breaks
Absorbs oil, reducing lubrication
Increases resistance and wear on moving parts
This not only affects your embroidery results—it can shorten the machine’s life.
Insufficient Oil = Expensive Repairs
Without proper oiling, parts wear out faster. This can lead to breakdowns, costly repairs, and downtime. Oiling ensures smooth motion, reduces friction, and helps prevent overheating.

What About the Thread Trimmer?
Inconsistent trimming is often caused by dust and thread bits lodged in the hook assembly. When debris blocks the trimmer’s blades, they can’t cut the thread cleanly—leading to missed trims or thread nests in your work.
Quick Takeaway: Clean and Oil = Reliable Embroidery
Daily cleaning and oiling of the hook area ensure:
Fewer thread breaks
Smoother trimming
Higher stitch quality
Longer machine life
Fewer surprises during production
Just a few minutes of maintenance can save you hours of frustration. Treat your machine well—it’ll return the favor with flawless stitching.
“You’re Not Using This, Are You?” — Cats, Embroidery Machines & Maintenance Tips
When your embroidery machine becomes a luxury cat bed. Meet the real boss of the sewing room—proof that even the Melco Bravo bows to feline royalty.
There’s nothing quite like sitting down at your embroidery machine and finding a regal furball claiming your workspace like they own it. If you've ever caught your cat lounging atop your Melco Bravo like it's a spa bed, you're not alone. Cue the iconic line: “You’re not using this, are you?”
This hilarious and heartwarming moment was captured by one user who shared a photo of their majestic feline commandeering their machine like royalty. But it sparked more than just a laugh—it opened up a real conversation about pet safety and machine maintenance.
When Cats and Embroidery Collide
One member shared a sobering experience: her cat jumped onto the machine while it was stopped for a thread trim—and startled her so badly that she ended up with an ER visit and two stitches. A reminder that as adorable as these fluffy assistants are, embroidery machines are no place for paws.
Pro Tip: Always make sure your machine is turned off or the head is moved away from working zones if your pet has access to the room. Those curious little explorers can pop up out of nowhere.

Keeping Your Melco Running Smoothly
The thread quickly turned into a helpful exchange of tips about Melco Bravo maintenance—especially regarding the needle carriage rail. While older models may not have had this in the manual, newer guidance recommends applying HP grease to both sides of the plastic rails (the black track running side to side), not the metal parts (those still take regular machine oil).
Maintenance Checklist:
Quarterly: Take-Up Lever Cam, Presser Foot Cam Follower, Right Needle Bar Guide Use light red HP grease — not oil — on plastic rail channels Search YouTube for: Melco Daily / Weekly / Monthly Maintenance The Most Cat Thing Ever
The best part? The cat chose to lay exactly where a finished piece was placed to prevent her from lying there. Naturally, that meant another round with the lint roller—for the third time.
Want to Join the Club?
This beloved Melco Bravo was scored second-hand on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace—proof that high-quality equipment is accessible if you're patient and persistent.
And as one commenter put it: “Nice machine… but wow, that’s a really realistic cat you embroidered!”
 
Final Thoughts
Embroidery is a blend of creativity, technical skill, and—if you’re lucky—a touch of chaos courtesy of your pets. Whether it’s a stitch gone wrong or a cat claiming your machine like a throne, the embroidery community always finds humor and wisdom in every thread.
Stay stitched, stay safe, and keep those cats off the hoop.

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