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Found 6 results

  1. I am just starting out with my pe770. Sometimes it works great and other times I have can’t figure it out. I’m working on a letter B now, it lays out the first set of stitches then comes back with a satin stitch but that satin stitch doesn’t completely cover the first lay out stitch. I’m not sure how to fix this. I’ve slowed the machine down and it was worse.
  2. In this blog we are going to introduce you to the basic digitizing tools, where they can be used and options you may have for the different tools depending on your level. Enhanced Column Tool This embroidery digitizing tool is very similar to the Satin tool except it the main difference between this tool is you place the angle lines by your nodes, where as a satin tool you choose where you want your angle lines. I first learned to digitize using this embroidery tool. This has the same range as a Satin Stitch .03 to .42 inch. See example on how to use below. Uses; borders, shapes, text Column Tool This tool is very similar to the Satin tool except it can only do straight sections, rectangles between .03 to .42 inch. It follows the same rules as Satin stitches. The main difference is the angle lines are defined by the placement on the nodes. You can use this tool to bend right angle around corners. See example above , Limitations it only uses straight lines no curves, some text and simple column stitches Manual Tool This tool is very unique in how it works, this tool where ever you click it places a point, it can be useful but you have to remember what your machine will do if you place too large of a stitch, I recommend stitch lengths between .02 and .15 of inch maximum. Uses; decorative stitches, fancy manual fills, manual underlay. placement stitches.. Run Tool This tool is very different then the manual tool although they can be used for the same uses, the approach is very different. Stitches are placed by specified distance, the stitches are even. All you need to do is draw your line and it will add the stitches accordingly. Uses; decorative stitches, fancy manual fills, manual underlay. placement stitches.. Complex Fill Tool This should be a tool you should become practiced at as you will use it in about seventy percent of your designs, it works in a wide range of sizes from .03 to infinite,. Great for filling in large areas, uniform stitches to cover and area. Draw your shape and complete the segment and it will fill the shape in , then you can select your fill pattern, density etc. Uses; Large text, text with borders, large areas, decorative patterns, Note With in the fill their are quite a few patterns, and options depending on your level, including the use of carved patterns, program fills and standard patterns. Steil Tool This tool is available in Tajima Illustrator Extreme and higher, this tool is a tight zig zag stitch, this can be used with some options like add border to fills on some levels, its great as a borders as the thickness is consistent. Its also can be changed on the fly. This tool works like a run tool , you draw your line and set the width and your done. Uses; borders, lines, out line shapes, applique, and more. Satin Tool This tool you draw the shape then close the shape and then place your angle lines. It can be very useful using this tool when digitizing text I use this tool, and use it fifty percent within designs. The stitch range is around .03 to .42 inch. The satin tool operates very differently , you place your out side shape and when you complete the segment it will prompt you for your start and stop points, and your angle lines then you can generate the stitches. Note: when you get above .38 in stitches will get loopy and you may want to convert them to a fill stitch. Uses; Text, borders, design elements Design Elements In the pictures below you will see some embroidery design elements based on these basic digitizing tools, with these tools and the Tajima Illustrator Extreme level you can punch 85% of the designs used in most shops. The higher levels have some additional tools and processes for speeding up the digitizing process including specialized digitizing tools for chenille, sequins, and boring, cording etc. In the embroidery design below you will see the original image on the left and the digitized file on the right , we have pointed out several of the different stitch types used. This machine embroidery design and similar can be made with the basic digitizing tools and the text tools we covered in other blogs. In the design below you can see that the steil tool was used to make a border around the design in a uniform circle this is perfect for the steil tool as it set to a width you choose, where the satin tool can very the width at any point allows you to customize the shape. The circle text tool was used to make circular text. The run tool added some fine detail to the clubs and ball. In this second design below you will see that the run tool was used as a primary stitch to add detail to the design. The fill tool was used to cover larger areas, and the steil tool was used around the tongue and the satin tool was used for the shapes as the width various. This design was made as a using a continuous pattern, their is only 1 trim in the whole design, 1 color and about 7769 stitches. It was made to illustrate smooth running embroidery designs. Both the embroidery designs illustrated were digitizing in Tajima DGML by Pulse software using the basic digitizing tools. The key to using these tools is to be able to Path your machine embroidery design ( PLAN IT ) Choose the right stitch that will create the element you want to make the image come to life.
  3. In the embroidery industry digitizing for caps is unique, you should plan your designs to sew out from the center, a cap embroidery design will also work on left chest with out any issues but not usually the same way around. Here are the standard rules that would apply to the machine embroidery design: Sew from center out. Sew from bottom up. Sew each element completely. Lets take a look at the image and go through the process for digitizing this design for caps. 1. On the artwork draw a reference line in the center 2. In a new document in your embroidery digitizing software go to Image choose your design. 3. Following the rules above you start at the Brim of the hat which would be the Varsity Softball. If possible you should try and find a font that is matches the design letters. From my knowledge of the fonts this appears to look similar to Brush Script New font. So I drew my line the length of the Varsity Softball and it very close to the original, but it needs some tweaking. The V S and f do not see to line up with the embroidery design. I would turn my beads on, and using my select tool grab the kerning bead illustrated in photo below. I would then pull down the letter so it matches up with the design below, Next step I would go to the properties by right clicking and going to properties and go to text tab and choose sew sequence. The default sew sequence for all text is from the left , you will need to choose to sew from center.. Optional you can also go to the text tab , general and change the trim distance to .05" so it will trim between the a V when sewing from center to the left. Now we can digitize the main part of the embroidery design , I would to the black inner area first from the center to the right.. To do this you will need the satin tool, do each letter at a time and simplify it. Once you are done digitizing the right side letters I would do the border stitch around the edge so it does distort when sewing out the other side of the cap. Using the Steil tool if you have it set the width to .06" and on the edge of the satin stitch place your points for the steil.. Remember what you see on screen is NOT what sew up, all stitches shrink usually the direction of the stitches. embroidery_caps_design.bmp Once you have the right side done, then you can start at the reference line and digitize the inner design using a satin stitch and go toward the left side and then repeat adding your steil border. Now that you have a properly stitched machine embroidery design you can either choose a recipe for caps or you can add your own underlay and compensation. Author: Frank Prokator
  4. When working with embroidery designs you will come across some limitations on size of text, this is where some back ground information is very helpful. We will cover which Tajima Pulse Fonts have been digitized for larger sizes, how to make a standard letter larger and other options When working with text its important to know the limitation of the satin stitch. The maximum stitch length for satin stitches is .50-.54 depending on your embroidery machine, however I recommend no more than .40 inch as it will be come loopy. You will have to watch the sample sew outs on similar fabric to judge how large you can go with your lettering. To give you a hint your software has a section called "FONT HELP" In their they list all of "Pulse Fonts" and they have information on which fonts can be used and how large you can make them. Font Help 1. Open a new document 2. Go to help.. select fonts Find the font called 2 Col Athletic 75-150 font and view the properties. In the above image at the bottom right side of the screen it will show you the minimum and maximum size for this font. This font should work up to 5.9" in height without manipulation. Here are some examples of standard large embroidery fonts in your embroidery digitizing software, there are more. Two Color Block Min 0.98 inches/25 mm Max 2.56 inches/65 mm Two Color Greek Min 0.98 inches/25 mm Max 2.05 inches/52 mm Two Color Villanova Min 0.98 inches/25 mm Max 5.9 inches/150 mm Western 2 Min 1 inch/25 mm Max 4.92 inches/125 mm Well this is great but very limiting , what if you need a font such as Full Block which has a maximum height of 1.38 inches/35 mm , whether this is where knowing your digitizing software pays you back. Any font can be made to sew out large as long as you know what to do.. Put a letter L using the Full Block font on your screen make it about 5 inches high. You will see that alot of the stitches do not show up.. and if you measure the column with the ruler tool , the column width is .90 inch , (note sometimes the software will show it past the .50 inch ,you always need to know how wide the column is making sure its no large than .40 of inch, or it will have issues.) Now we can adjust the letter so it can be sewn at this size 1. Right Click and go to the properties. 2. Find the Satin Tab. 3. Change the Satin Pattern to Pattern 1 When working with large letters you will need to make sure your underlay, density and compensation is set for the type of embroidery design, fills tend to have a lot of PUSH or PULL on your fabric, you will need a fair bit of underlay like a contour stitch and possibly a zig zag stitch which will also help with the density. Make sure you use med/heavy cutaway for this type of machine embroidery design. For digitizers you can always digitize applique or make your own fonts. Author: Frank Prokator
  5. You need the following equipment for embroidery designs like this Inkjet printer, OpagueTransfer paper Heat press Embroidery Machine Sequin option In the embroidery industry many of us have a closed view of what we can offer, with a little bit of imagination, some troubleshooting and some creativity you can give your designs the illusion of blends and extraordinary detail. I am know master but Tajima Japan has this figured out. Each year they send out a Christmas card that they embroidered on paper no less , but with an image in the back ground and stitches on top.. The machine embroidery design below was made with the color change sequin option and two contrasting colors of sequins. The above machine embroidery design was made by printing the image on the paper, printing the water spray with green, yellow and red run stitches, covered up by a white satin stitch random on both sides at a lower density of around 30 spi. The monument was down in a satin stitch and high lighted with a run stitch on top to make it appear like it has a shadow. Most shows either had a ink jet printer they can print heat transfers with and sew an embroidery design on top. this is an effective way to create blends with out the time of sewing out multiple layers. Their is one not you need to mark the image at some point where you can line up the first needle so the sew out aligns with the design. Introduction to blending In multimedia designs another technique is to use different embroidery thread types or different colors of embroidery thread to simulate a blend. When doing blends its important to understand density as you need to lighten the density of the layers , as you want the stitches to lightly overlap so when sewn out they blend together. Now before you get to worried its not all the hard.. lets take a look at the elements of the design and the properties. Please note the images will look very different as the first design was made in Tajima Pulse version 13 and this one was made in Tajima Pulse version 14 , the stitch engine changes the way the stitches look. It took me a long time to get used to it. So the this layer is made up of different satin stitches using a pattern fill and a density of 20 spi This layer is made up of satin stitch with a density of 20 spi , tatami pattern , jagged on the first side with a randomness of 60 , this staggers the stitches and randomize the edge. The last layer. This layer adds the details density is 25 the fill is Tatami 50 and jagged on the first size randomness of 60 . To understand fills you really need to sew out the different patterns and different density to appreciate what they look like. Every technique will teach you the basics, you need to practice on sample embroidery designs to understand how they can be applied. One thing to keep in mind is that all the layers should equal no more than 55-75 spi When I worked for a few different companies as embroiders they often asked why they cannot make small letters look good when other shops can. I explained to them that there using the wrong needle for the application. To make small letters look good you should be using a 65/9 needle and 60 wt embroidery thread, the needle is about 30 % smaller than the 75/11 needle and the thread is half the thickness of 40 wt .. making it ideal for fine detail and small letters. In future blogs we will cover this, however you can blend to thickness of threads in the same embroidery design repeating patterns and using a compliment color to get shading effect. Aurhor: Frank Prokator
  6. Hello. Does anyone know the trick to getting embroidery on puffy foam to look professional? I have tried it using a satin stitch but when the excess foam is torn away, the edges of the stitches are no longer smooth. There are jagged edges of the foam left. I have even digitized the design twice with the second one having a little wider satin stitch to cover the first. Is there a different kind of foam other that the one home sewers use? Am I missing a step someplace? I'm sewing on a Tajima Neo II with rayon thread. I've tried it on canvas, caps, towels, Head bands. Same problem on each one. The other problem I am having is embroidering on head bands and wrist bands. What kind of topping are you using to get the stitches to stay on top and not sink into the stretchy fabric? Do I need to do something with the density? I've seen pictures of it done in catalogs. If anyone can help me with either of these problems, I would be very appreciative. Thanks.
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