![](https://forum.embroideres.com/uploads/monthly_2016_03/triming-jump-stitches-preview.thumb.jpg.dc7b5b0a615b1e37fd49eb22c5e3cab1.jpg)
Original text by: Marina Belova
A couple of days ago I was thinking on where it would be better to cut the jump stitches (travel runs between the objects): on the right or the wrong side of the embroidery. As it always happens, the mystery was easily solved — with the very simple yet sound advice from Deborah Jones:
- If you use topping (water soluble film), don't remove it after embroidery.
- Trim the jump stitches on the right side.
- Now turn the item the wrong side up and, gently pulling, secure the upper thread end in the fabric so that it is not visible anymore.
- Trim the jump stitches that are over 12 mm, created by the bobbin thread on the wrong side. It is necessary in order to prevent the long threads catching the parts that stick out.
- Remove the stabilizer both from the right and the wrong side.
To make the embroidery look neat, you'll need to do all the work that any commercial embroidery machines with an automatic trimmer (a knife under the needle plate) does — pull the upper thread tails to the wrong side. There is no way to avoid wearisome manual labor in machine embroidery.
Even such a small problem is handled not like I'm used to, as usual. From now on I won't make the jump cuts between the objects. I'll let the machine do the trimming.
When I was just beginning my embroidery career, I was most strictly advised to minimize the number of trims in the design not because it was good for the purpose of making the right embroidery sequence leading to embroidery efficiency, but only because it would cause 'damage' to the machine. But later a technician said to me that trimming was not in any way damaging for the machine, and that I should not try to avoid it where it was really needed, because removing the jump cuts would require a lot of manual labor afterward.
Edited by Irina
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