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The embroidery design in rectangle in shape.  The logo looks fine while sewing but when I take it out of the hoop it puckers around the edges. I have tried 2.5 cutaway. I have tried 1, 2, and 3 pieces. I have also tried to change the stitch direction. I have also tried polyester and rayon threads? Hooping is good and tight but not overly tight.  The logo mostly puckers on the Dri fit polo material. Any suggestions would be helpful.


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OH how I dislike those Nike Dri-Fit's... Anyway what I do with them (for any logo above 5,000 stitches)  is hoop it using 1 sheet of heavy cutaway topped with a sheet of sticky back. Stick the shirt firmly to the sticky back, hoop it over the cutaway, put it in the machine and slow the speed down. I just ran a single shirt order (could lead to multiple thousand dollar orders) at 600spm. If you have old, damaged Nike's use them as test subjects. Apparently there is a new backing strictly for Performance... I have yet to see it. But Weblon (Madeira) is pretty good for light logo's on performance..


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I just hired a new employee who told me about a  backing sold by Gunold.  It is called Allstitch and I could not believe the difference it made when stitching on dri-fit shirts.
 Also, spray adhesive is a lot less trouble to use than the sticky backing.  I have never used either on the dri-fit shirts, but sometimes it helps on the unstructured caps...

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The backing by Gunold for performance fabrics really does work.  Unfortunately, it only comes in white.  Our standard method for dealing with "slinky" fabrics is to use adhesive spray (Gunold again). The KK100 economy version is just fine.  The more expensive version is available for super stick.   It really really helps.  We have a small cardboard box set up to contain the spray and use it away from the machines.  When stitching we run the machines at a lower speed.     We no longer hate performance wear.  However, due to the extra work, we still aren't thrilled about them.  At least the results are now SO much improved!   :)


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  • 3 weeks later...

I am not so literate on this site.   How can I find some old posts on lettering on lycra?  I am trying to match the adidas font and thickness with the customer's name.  The lettering is kinda small, 0.40 I am using avante new, but can't seem to match the density of the logo on the garment without creating a messy look.  any ideas? Thanks, Terri, Talking Threads.


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Hi, I have gone through our old Pulselist email forum archives and found the following suggestions from other users.  Also, have you tried using the Lycra recipe ?  

Here are some tips others had to say:

 

I do lycra tops all the time and I just lower the density.  I use rayon
thread - nothing special.  If you do not lower the density the letters can
fall out.  I have used -20spi or -15spi for density.  Good luck
Phyllis

---------------------

I did 72 Lycra sport bras for the Raiderettes.  To do them I put in a cotton
bobbin (because this did not scratch the skin) and Rayon threads, applied two
pieces of solvy on the back and one on the front, hooped the garment with a
slight stretch (as if on the body) and slowed my machine down to about 450.
They came out great and ofcourse the ladies loved them.  If you want to
contact me I would gladly help.
Sew Original

---------------------

Sandy
You'll need to sandwich it between the cutaway backing
and 2 layers of solvy on top.
Morris
West Embroidery

> I have spandex/ lycra cheerleader tops to embroidery for a cheering squad.
> What
> is the best way to hoop the spandex so the fabric won't crawl during
> embroidery?  I am using smallest hoop size and cutaway backing.
> Thanks,

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Hi, I'm using standard block lettering ,45 " on winking material.  It's 100% polyester, very thin and fine.  When I sew it out there is puckering all around the words.  I've tried increasing/decreasing density,  tight/loose hooping,  little/lots of backing.  None of this helped or maybe I have the combination of these wrong.  Please help.  These are expensive shirts that deserve a nice flat logo.


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