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Found 9 results

  1. Master-class by: Irina Lisitsa Beginner owners of embroidery machines are at a loss when overlooking the vast majority of stabilizers. This series of master-classes will teach you the basic rules of hooping of various types of stabilizers. After having read this you will be able to hoop an adhesive stabilizer (Filmoplast) in the right way. This type of stabilizer allows you to secure fabric with a layer of adhesive. Works good for fabrics of high and medium density, and also fabrics that cannot be hooped, like leather, chamois and coated materials. How to hoop Filmoplast We will need: Hoop& Filmoplast stabilizer Marker Scissors Ruler Put the stabilizer with its paper layer facing up. Mark the borders of the hoop. Cut a piece of stabilizer, using the marking on the paper layer. Put it on the outer ring with the paper layer facing up. Put the inner ring onto the stabilizer and press it down. Pull the edges of the stabilizer to smooth it out. Screw your hoop tightly. Put the plastic template on the hoop and mark the borders of embroidery area with a marker. Outline the borders of embroidery area with a marker or use the markings on the stabilizer. With the sharp end of scissors cut the paper layer along the lines. Take off the paper layer of stabilizer, to free the sticky side. Stick your fabric onto it. Embroider your design. When the embroidery is completed, take the embroidery design off the stabilizer.
  2. Master-class by: Irina Lisitsa Dense adhesive water soluble stabilizer is your first helper when it comes to embroidering lace and working with delicate fabrics: chiffon, organza, thin knitwear etc. A new machine embroidery stabilizer Solufix is different from the water soluble stabilizer we know, because of an additional layer of adhesive. It helps working with materials that cannot be hooped and also can be easily removed afterwords. An adhesive layer of Solufix secures the fabric while the embroidery process, and the water soluble part goes off by rinse with a warm water once the embroidery is completed. In this master-class I'll show you how to hoop a water soluble stabilizer Solufix. Materials: Adhesive water soluble stabilizer Marker Scissors Hoop Fabric Place the hoop onto the stabilizer and mark the outer edges with a little allowance. Link the marks with the lines. Cut the stabilizer along the lines you just draw. Put the stabilizer onto the outer ring of the hoop with the paper layer on top. Press the stabilizer into the hoop slightly. Put the inner ring on the top of it and press it inside to secure the stabilizer. Using your template, mark the edges of your embroidery area. Take the template off. Link all the marks together. With the sharp edge of the scissors cut only the paper layer of your stabilizer. Remove the paper layer. Stick your stabilizer onto the fabric. There can be one or two layers of different size. Now the fabric is secured with the stabilizer, and you may proceed with your embroidery.
  3. Original text by Marina Belova Proper stabilization of the fabric during the embroidery in order to prevent the distortion remains one of the most acute problems. Even in my not so long embroidery career, numerous garments were ruined simply because of disinclination or, more often, inability to use the stabilizers (or interfacing materials). It goes without saying that, unfortunately, I don't always use them even now. The rules of choosing a stabilizer (or interfacing) are very simple and quite logical. It only takes to comprehend them once in order to use a suitable kind of stabilizer in any particular case in future. In my opinion, all stabilizers should be divided into two main categories: Backings Toppings Below I'll only list the types of stabilizers commonly used. Backings Backings are special materials, usually non-woven, which are placed under the fabric. They serve to support and stabilize the fabric when it's being embroidered, prevent creasing, distortion, stretch and pull, both during the embroidery and after washing or dry-cleaning. There are several types of backings: Tear-away Cut-away Adhesive Soluble Fusible Tear-away stabilizers This type of stabilizers is good for most fabrics made of natural fibers and gives only a temporary support. Main recommendations: this type of backing is easily removed and can be successfully used with the items where the wrong side can be seen (towels, plaids, scarfs and so on). It is also widely used with non-transparent fabrics of fair colors, with thick and densely woven fabrics made of natural fibers — like denim. Not recommended for knits. Tear-away stabilizers are usually made of paper. And their thickness may vary. Cut-away stabilizers Cut-away backings are used when it is necessary to hold a highly stretchy fabric in place during the embroidery and stabilize it properly. They are necessary to embroider a design with a lot of stitches, in order to avoid gathering of the fabric, preventing the appear of bulges or concavities even after several washes. A cut-away stabilizer is always thicker than a tear-away one. Usually, this is a non-woven fabric made of long fibers on the basis of polyester or rayon. The distribution of the fibers in the backing is also of huge importance. If the fibers are mainly single-oriented, it stretches in tears in this one direction. Therefore, to stabilize the fabric properly you need to use 2 layers of backing, positioning them perpendicularly. Such backings are of varying density. If the fibers in the non-woven material run in multiple directions, it has an uneven grainy structure with knots here and there. This unevenness can make the fabric less stable. But this kind of material is good for the embroidery nevertheless and is used often because it's cheap. This kind of stabilizer can also be of varying density. Bonding short fibers (polyester, rayon, cellulose) together by solvent treatment, you'll get a non-woven fabric of high quality, which is soft like a tear-away stabilizer, has a smooth surface and does not stretch in any direction. This stabilizer can be of varying density and just 1 layer of it is sufficient. It is considered most optimal for stabilizing because it does not add extra volume to the embroidery and is invisible through the fabric. Recommendations: to add stability to this kind of backing you can spray it with temporary spray adhesive. Among the cut-away stabilizers spunbond stands out — thin, very soft material that resembles a waffle. There are stabilizers produced in the USA that are called Poly Mesh or No Show Mesh. This kind of backing is good because it does not stretch at all, providing support all the time and is not visible through the fabric. It comes in various colors and densities. This kind of stabilizer is good for embroidery on knitwear. Adhesive stabilizers They allow the item to be stuck onto them, thus stabilizing the fabric. There are several types of them: Ordinary stabilizer with glue on one side. The item is stuck onto such backing with an iron. Adhesive paper with glue on one side that is covered with a protective layer. This paper is necessary when embroidering tricky fabrics: velvet, cashmere, leather, which are not recommended for hooping. And also for the items that are hard to hoop: collars, cuffs, small details. The paper is placed in the hoop with the sticky side up, then the protective layer is removed and the item is placed on top. Afterward, you simply tear the paper away from the item. Solvent stabilizers Solvent stabilizers include a water-soluble stabilizer that is very much like fabric and water-soluble film of varying density. They are used for stabilizing the embroidery when it is necessary to remove the backing for good so that it was not at all visible. For example, organza, transparent fabrics, FSL and also cutwork. Read more on using this kind of stabilizer here. Fusible stabilizers They are used when it is necessary to stabilize the fabric, which cannot be made wet, but the backing leftovers need to be removed. They can be successfully used for embroidering FSL, as well as water-soluble film. They are usually removed with a very hot iron (no less than 120°) or with the pressing machine through the ordinary paper. Under no circumstances should steam be used with fusible stabilizers. Toppings Toppings are special materials that are placed on top of the fabric. They are necessary to prevent the stitches from sinking into the pile, loops, fur and other such materials, also in loosely-woven fabrics like knits. Gelatin-based toppings are used most often because they can be easily solved in water. We call them wash-away toppings or water soluble toppings (film). There are two main kinds of water-soluble toppings: thin and thick (dense) ones. The thin film is used practically with everything, and thick ones only with high piles. The other type of toppings are fusible toppings (we call them heat-away, fusible or heat-soluble). They are used in cases when the fabric cannot be washed, and therefore, the water-soluble film cannot be used. They are usually removed with a very hot iron (no less than 120°) or with the pressing machine through the ordinary paper. Under any circumstances don't use steam with fusible stabilizers. Main rules of using the stabilizers The thicker is the fabric, the heavier the backing should be, and vice versa, the thinner the fabric, the less dense the backing. The more stitches are in the design, the denser the design itself should be, and the thicker the backing should be for stabilizing the fabric. When embroidering with metallic threads you should avoid synthetic backings and try to use the ones made of natural fibers (cotton or rayon), like Madeira E-ZEE Cotton Soft. This is necessary because stabilizers made of natural fibers are softer, they create less friction to the thread and needles, so the needle does not overheat and the thread breaks less often. How does one decide which stabilizer to use? Every time you need to answer these questions: the stability of the fabric, the density of the design, stitch lengths, embroidery speed, thread type. All of these parameters determine what your choice will be. Also, you can read my article on matching the fabric with the stabilizer. In the course of time, I singled out the stabilizers that I use the most. I've covered them at length in this blog.
  4. Original text by: Marina Belova I have once written a guide to all sorts of embroidery stabilizers (fusible interfacing materials) for manual embroidery. As we all know, the market is full of such auxiliary materials, which can be helpful to an embroiderer. Nevertheless, in these days I often think that not all of them are useful for me in my day-to-day work. In the past I used to buy a lot of stabilizers of various brands, to see if they could be really helpful. I liked some of them and disliked the others; there were also certain products that I didn't know how and where to use even after having read the manual. In the course of time, after I gained some experience, it turned out that 3 or 4 types of stabilizer were sufficient for me to make a good embroidery. They really are enough for everything I embroider lately. I'll show you what stabilizers I use for all routine projects and all types of fabric. I must specify though that the projects I do are rather simple: standard promotional designs on knitwear, terry cloth, occasionally caps, also ordinary materials like diagonal, coarse calico, two-thread cloth, sometimes the materials used in interior design, fore example silks and velvets of varying quality. So, here's my basic embroidery stabilizer kit: 1. Heavy-weight cutaway stabilizer (I wouldn't call it tearaway, like most of the sellers, because it doesn't tear that good), made in China. Density circa 60 g/m2. This stabilizer has a strongly pronounced fiber orientation, which isn't always good. Works fine for knitwear. Here it is: 2. Medium weight cutaway stabilizer (some consider it tearaway) made in China or Turkey, density 35-40 g/m2. In my kit there is a cutaway stabilizer of 2 different brands, with and without fiber orientation (the last is my personal favorite). I use them for medium-level projects and ordinary textiles. Photo: an example of a stabilizer with single fiber orientation: And this is the one without any orientation: 3. A tearaway paper-like stabilizer, density circa 60 g/m2. It resembles recycled paper because it looks just as specked and non-uniform. I also have a punched-out variation of this paper, which also tears away easily. As it turned out, it comes in very handy when embroidering a design on terry cloth. But this paper-like stabilizer (and not only this one), as experience has shown, may be replaced by ordinary printing paper, which I sometimes do when it fits the size of design. I rarely use other types of stabilizers, and usually as supplementary ones. 4. Thin water soluble film — a stabilizer topping for pile textiles, prevents the problem with pile piercing through the stitches. Nevertheless, I rarely use this film, too, but instead replace it with a stretch wrap or a plastic bag. I tested all the these materials in order to find a substitution for the expensive water soluble stabilizers, as I have already written. Water soluble stabilizers are used for lace and cutwork. There are also other types of auxiliary materials I use from time to time: Temporary spray adhesive Paper adhesive tape Double-sided adhesive tape And that's all there is to it. I don't keep a large variety of stabilizers. No spunbond, no heat away backing, no sticky backing paper-like filmoplast or other sticky embroidery stabilizers — I don't buy or use any of those. And even if I did buy some of them in the past, it was only for the purpose of examining them, because all these stabilizers can be replaced by their less expensive analogs. You can' have them all. Besides, if you embroidered on velvet using filmoplast as a stabilizer, it would turn out a real disaster, because filmoplast has a habit of taking the pile out, and it peels off easily, too. You have to be extremely careful with the projects that require a great number of stitches. Double-sided adhesive tape also tends to peel off the fabric. Sometimes I think that everything new that pops up on the market is made with one goal in sight, and that is to induce customers to buy more and more materials. This happens because stabilizers become more and more differentiated, and not because they work better. It seems to me that the resulting embroidery is not always in connection with the price of a stabilizer and the innovations used in its making. What it depends upon is the quality of the design and the accuracy of hooping. Generally speaking, the resulting embroidery will be in strong connection with your experience in design making as well as handling different types of fabric and the embroidery machine. Remember the general rule: the thinner the fabric, the thicker the stabilizer, however strange it might seem. You will get very soft lace using thermogaze, but it leaves residue which does not come off easily. What stabilizers do you use in your work?
  5. Original text: unknown Good afternoon! Among the lovers of the machine embroidery there are those who prefer step-by-step tutorials, master-classes and other guidance materials, and there are also the ones who try to master the great variety of working practices all by themselves. For whose who are on the brink of engaging into learning machine embroidery techniques by themselves, here's a little bit of advice. The phrase "learn by yourself" does not mean "turn a blind eye to all that has been previously written on the subject", but "to use what has been previously written and to fill the gaps". Learning machine embroidery technique by yourself What you should notice when mastering the technology of embroidering on a specific type of fabric. The fabric and its characteristics You should know the fabric you are going to work with. Learn, if only superficially, its characteristics. Whether is stretches or not. Whether it is loosely or densely woven. Whether its surface is smooth or piled. If we are talking about using machine embroidery techniques on different types of fabric, I'd like to name it "Machine embroidery on the types of fabric that give you trouble", because in most cases embroidery on a densely woven smooth-surfaced material does not you cause any trouble at all, even the chosen design is a bit too dense. Stabilizers and hooping methods First of all, learn the main types of stabilizers in existence. We have already described various types of embroidery stabilizers and where to use them; also you can search our forum for tips. Try to figure out what type of stabilizer will be better for you fabric. Whether you should use a water soluble stabilizer or not. Whether you need an underlay and of what kind. When to use a tearaway stabilizer and when a cutaway will be better. Whether you should hoop the fabric or better go without it. Needles and threads You have probably noticed that many needles for machine embroidery and sewing are made for specific purpose. There are omni-purpose needles, embroidery needles, also needles for metallic thread, silk, woolen fiber etc. First, learn the materials available and then use what you have. Perhaps, the main recommendation on using needles will be as follows: You should not use expensive needles when working with densely woven fabrics that do not cause trouble, and when working with delicate fabrics such as silk or calico you should not use the same needles as you do for densely woven ones. Try to use rare and expensive needles for their intended purposes. The threads come in different types, too, and each of these types has its own usage recommendations. The main types of thread are polyester, viscose rayon, wool and cotton. The last two are the common polyester threads without luster, but with the addition of wool and cotton. Try using different threads with different types of needles available in your machine. When choosing which ones to use pay attention to the width of needle's eye and thread thickness. When you use a thick woolen fiber, you'd better not choose a narrow needle's eye. And so, gradually, you will understand, whether you should use a thick thread when embroidering on silk if you cannot use a thin needle with it. Whether you should choose a big eye needle when working with a thin thread. How many needles for silk will you need to embroidery a dense design on the tarpaulin... The Designs For a beginner all machine embroidery designs look the same. Beginners don't pay attention neither to the density of the design nor to filling characteristics. They don't yet know what the words "satin", "tatami" and "motif" mean. But such a situation won't last long. After having embroidered a dense chevron on a thin knitwear and having got a "bulletproof vest" as a result, or having embroidered a rare stitch on a terry towel you will understand that you should pay attention to design characteristics. To understand how a satin column pulls the fabric, how the tatami behaves, what restrictions apply to the stitch designs and where they will look good and harmonious. We will definitely write about all this in our blogs, and meanwhile we suggest that you embark on a journey of learning the machine embroidery techniques by yourself.
  6. Original text by: Irina Lisitsa Sometimes when I talk to the beginners or those in the process of choosing their first embroidery or sewing and embroidery machine, they ask me if there is a possibility of embroidering on terry cloth. The answer is: yes, but! You must follow the rules. The stitches of the already embroidered design may sink down and be lost in the pile and the thread or the needle may be tangled when embroidering on high speed. The needle breakage may follow, sometimes it may even spoil the embroidery. There are many useful videos on the internet, and I offer you one of them. It is a step-by-step guide, which will help you to understand hooping and embroidery processes even if you are not familiar with the terms. The master-class was done on a sewing-embroidery machine Brother Innov-is V7. Materials • 180*300 mm hoop • Upper thread • Underthread • Sewing and embroidery marker • Temporary spray adhesive • A terry towel size of 250x500 mm and bigger • Water soluble stabilizer • Non-adhesive cutaway stabilizer Embroidery on terry cloth: Tips When choosing a design for terry cloth, densely filled ones are preferable. The designs created with straight stitches may be lost in the high pile of the fabric right after the first wash. Water soluble stabilizer is used so that the stitches lie flat. It is used as the top stabilizer. Water soluble stabilizer comes as the film of varying density. I used dense water soluble film in my master-class, but don't hesitate to use a thin one. After the embroidery is completed, it can be removed more quickly and easily. Use a cutaway or a tearaway non-adhesive stabilizer as the underlay. Tearaway stabilizer is better, because it can be removed more quickly after the completion of the embroidery. Use printed templates to specify where your design will be placed. You can print your template with the help of PE Design. Embroidery on terry cloth: First option 1. Using the printed template, mark the center of the embroidery on the towel. 2. Add a layer of spray adhesive on the tearaway non-adhesive stabilizer. 3. Stick your terry towel onto stabilizer. 4. Put a layer of the water soluble stabilizer on top of it. 5. Hoop this 'sandwich', aligning them so that the center mark on the stabilizer is right on top of the center mark on the towel. 6. Screw it tightly. 7. Set you hoop into your machine. 8. Load a machine embroidery design from USB-flash or choose the design from the memory of the sewing-embroidery machine. 9. Embroider your design. 10. After embroidery is completed, remove the 'sandwich' from the hoop. 11. Cut or tear away you underlay. 12. Holding the material in place with your hand, tear the stabilizer away. 13. To remove the stabilizer between the objects saturate a sponge with water and give a dab. You can wash the ready embroidered item by hand. Embroidery on terry cloth: Second option 1. Using the printed template, mark the center of the embroidery on the towel. 2. Add a layer of spray adhesive on tearaway non-adhesive stabilizer. 3. Hoop your stabilizer and screw tightly. 4. Stick your terry towel onto the stabilizer. 5. Put the water soluble stabilizer on top of it. 6. Secure the towel and water soluble stabilizer with pins. 7. Set you hoop into your machine and embroider the design. 8. After the embroidery is completed, remove the top stabilizer and the underlay. See the video here.
  7. Master-class by: Irina Lisitsa Cutaway non-adhesive stabilizer works very good for embroidery on knitwear. Using this type of stabilizer allows keeping the shape of the embroidered area while the item is in use. Cutaway non-adhesive stabilizer is used with temporary spray adhesive. This master-class will tell you how to hoop a cutaway non-adhesive stabilizer in the right way. How the right and wrong side of the item secured with the non-adhesive stabilizer look like. The embroidery was made on the fabric with thin stockinette structure. Materials: Cutaway non-adhesive stabilizer Hoop Temporary spray adhesive An item Unscrew your hoop and take the inner part out. Put a cutaway non-adhesive stabilizer onto the outer ring. Put the inner ring onto it and press it down to secure the stabilizer. Pull the edge of a stabilizer so that it is tight in the hoop. Shake up a tube of spray. Put a layer of spray adhesive onto the stabilizer. Stick your fabric onto the stabilizer. Set you hoops in your machine and embroider the design. After the embroidery is completed, cut stabilizer away near the contour. The embroidery is ready!
  8. I got Brothers SE 400 and struggling to learn for embroidery. I read lot of them online. I am new to this forum and would like to ask you all about better stabilizers for children's t-shirts. I heard about light, medium and heavy weight. Are they awesome to use? Please let me know.
  9. I have a friend who is a beginner stitcher as I am, but she insist that you do not need to stabilize quilted fabric. I told her you do need it so the design doesn't shift. She doesn't want to waste time attaching stabilizer by ironing on or sticky stabilizer. I think she is just lazy and don't really care how the backside looks after stitching. Can you answer this question for me. I sometime double when stitching lighter weight fabric such as knits and t-shirt fabric.
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