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hey folks I need some advice. My PE 770 is making a loud thumping noise when it is stitching. The stitches are ok, just the machine is very loud. I talked with my repair guy and he thinks that my pressure foot is bad or going bad. I might need to replace it. I can wiggle the foot a lot even when the screw is very tight. Has anyone else encountered this issue?

Hey! So I stitched out a design onto some thinner 100% Polyester fabric. It stitched out great, so I decided to stitch it onto a hoodie which has a thicker cotton and polyester blend. The embroidery on the hoodie looks very jagged and doesn't look anything close to as clean as the first embroidery did. Could someone point me in the right direction to getting my second embroidery to look like my first? What am I doing wrong? Thanks so much in advance. I've included an image of whats happening below.

Hello everyone, I am having issues stitching a simple box running-stitch on my Brother Innov-is NV800. Some parts of the stitching on the box look perfect, some look as if there is a problem with the tension. And I just don't understand why. It appears as if the tension "changes" every time the needle goes around the corner. MY FIRST EXAMPLE Stitching starts in top-left corner. Starts good, then stitching turns ugly as direction changes, only to finish sewing the final vertical stitch fine. I digitized this with Ink/Stitch. MY SECOND EXAMPLE I digitized this with PE-Design 7. Stitching starts botom center. Right away, the stitching looks bad, arter turning corners it's good again, only to finish bad again. MY THIRD EXAMPLE Simple lines stitched in one direction. Each line is perfect. What's going on here? A pattern I see, in both box-examples, the right-vertical and bottom-horizontal lines look bad. -Both boxes were digitized in different programs. -I use an 80/12 Topstitch needle -Thread is Rayon size 40 Everyones assistance here is really appreciated

I am wanting to make a onside with this applique on the front, and just the paw print with the babys name on the butt. Is all the stitching for the paw print done after the S and H so that I could use just that part when I edit it?

Hi Guys just wanting to know if there is a setting or function you can use in Tajima Pulse to make quick & Easy Fade /Gradient fill stitched blocks for backgrounds. can you set the fill stitch density at 0 (at the start of the block) and then at say 25. (at the end of the block) so it gets thicker as its stitching. i want to digitize a single color block, then have a different color overlay the top e.g. white block with black on top, so it seems the embroidery is fading form white to black. hope this makes sense, i know its possible just have no clue what to do :/

After upgrading to Tajima Maestro in V.12 and doing the latest updates I am still having trouble with the way some thread colors are represented. We us the RA palette and the darker colors like Mahogany continue to be displayed in existing designs and new stitching as the default color, a light pink called Pink Cascade. We have tried to edit the thread chart and reinstall the database. No go. Still pink. We have custom colored the miscreant colors and tried to immediately use the new coloration. We saved the thread chart and rebooted. Nothing works. So what gives Pulse? What is the answer? I show my designs to my customers on the screen and they can't imagine that the pink will go away and the design will look fine. I need some help.

Hi guys, Is anybody else having this issue? I'm working on a design and I go to add underlay and all of the fill stitching disappears. I tried resizing the embroidery design and everywhere I had done shading all of the fill underneath disappeared. This just started today. I did another design with some of the same features 2 days ago, and it worked just fine. I thought perhaps I was missing a release update, so I checked and yes, I was one behind and ran that, but the problem still exists! HELP!!!!!!

When I upgraded to Tajima Illustrator Extreme I was upset to find that the End Lock list no longer included Triangle & Diamond, it just had Basic and Line. When I reported it I was questioned why I needed them. Being new to the business it made me wonder how and when I should really be using them. What upset me about the missing diamond was I like to use the diamond at a big size stitch (2 or 3 mm) for locking off temporary tensioning or holding stitches as its easier to cut them out afterwards. The Line lock is my default general purpose lock as I find it useful for hiding in the end of satin / steil. But I also find that it stresses the fabric and can cause a pucker or even tear, particularly on weaker and stretch fabrics and especially if placed at the end of a satin or on a corner (I always move it back away from ends and corners now) Diamond and Triangle I use to avoid stressing an aukward fabric, and if necessary will put them on top of the satin stitch at the end (yes I know it shows slightly but I reckon its far better than tearing a hole in a shirt after an hours stitching) I also use 1 or 2 mm diamond and triangle for start and finish of sequin stitches as I use the very fine nylon monofilament which is a single strand so cannot pass through itself to lock, and pulling it tight in a small default 0.6mm line lock appears to overstress almost any fabric. So when and how should I really use the different lock stitches ? ? ? ? ?