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Found 72 results

  1. This beautiful and useful biscornu Biscornu is a French word, meaning something like “quirky”. You can see these cute thingies in almost every home. Even those who only sew on a button or two from time to time, keep them within reach as something to stick superfluous pins and needles in. A skillfully crafted biscornu may serve as an admirable decoration. But that’s all prattle. My point is this: almost all DIY biscornu tutorials concentrate on pincushions for cross-stitch embroidery done by hand, and practically nobody ever mentions the possibility of doing all the sewing and embroidery on a machine. As I already said, the work “biscornu” is of a French origin. It literally means “something uneven”, “with horns or projections”, “irregular”, “funny”, absurd”. For the embroiderers, this word denotes a small polygonal cushion, more or less symmetrical. This skewed little thing may serve as a pincushion, a pendant, a keychain, a scissors fob, and even an ornament. If you add some suitable adornment, you can even hang it on a Christmas tree! Many people would be happy to receive one as a present. Let’s create a biscornu. In this article, I’ll tell you how I made my own. To make a biscornu, you’ll need: 1. A piece of evenly woven fabric (linen or dense cotton). 2. An embroidery machine. 3. Embroidery threads. 4. Optionally, buttons, beads or seed beads, sequins, and rhinestones. 5. Water-soluble or tearaway stabilizer. 6. A design (you may get one from our store https://embroideres.com/). 1. Let’s start by hooping stabilizer and fabric. Tighten the screw and additionally secure the fabric with pins, so that it doesn’t shift during the embroidery. 2. Load the design into the embroidery machine, attach the hoop and embroider both parts of your biscornu. 3. Attention! The essential part of biscornu decor is backstitch running along the edge of the design. It will be used for the joining of the two parts. 4. Both parts of our biscornu are ready. Cut them out with a 1 cm seam allowance. 5. Before you start assembling the thing, locate the centers of every side of your squares. Mark center points with pins. Join the center of one square with the corner of another. This will give the thing the required skewed shape. The assembling process is fun, but it’s also time-consuming, so switch on an audiobook or an episode of your favorite TV series. We’re going to sew the parts of our biscornu by hand. 6. Pick up the needle and the thread (same as you used for the backstitch), fold it in half so that there is a loop at one end. Move the needle through the first backstitch, then back and through the loop, thus securing the thread with an invisible stitch. 7. Pull the thread through 2 corner stitches. 8. Continue in this manner, joining the stitches of square No1 with the stitches of square No2, until your biscornu is stitched up on three sides. You only sew half of the fourth side, leaving an opening for the stuffing. 9. Snip the inner corners. 10. Stuff the things with bits of polyester batting or another padding material. 11. Sew the opening. 12. Your biscornu is almost ready. Let’s add some finishing touches. 13. Fold the thread in half, so there is a loop at one end, and thread the two ends through the needle. Find the center of every side of the square, and with a long needle pierce the biscornu through. Then bring the needle back and through the loop. 14. Pull the thread through the buttons, gathering your biscornu a bit. Having looked at my biscornu the following morning, I realized that I didn’t like the buttons. So I replaced them with beads. Good luck and easy stitching to you all! Creating biscornu is fun! Tutorial supplement. How to create a design for a biscornu Loading the design 1. Open Embird Editor and click on Cross Stitch. 2. Load the design via Chart Import. 3. In the window, click on the part of the design and use the Crop tool on it. You should get something like this. Press OK. While cropping the image and placement of the marks, use +/- to zoom in or out. 4. In the next window, place the red marks as shown in the picture below, and click on Align Grid. In the window that pops up, you’ll be offered to place a number of crosses between marks 1 and 2, and also between marks 2 and 3. Type in 10 (the number corresponds with the real number of crosses between the marks) and press OK. 5. See whether the red greed aligns with the chart greed. If yes, press OK. If the two grids don't align, click on Undo Alignment and change the placement of the three marks. A 100% alignment is not necessary. The loading image FAQ How to activate the Crop button? Open your image (step 3), and immediately after that place the cursor in the spot A. Holding down your left mouse button, move the cursor to the spot B. Release the button. Now the Crop tool is active. Why did you place the red marks in those places, and not in the corners? Why 10 crosses? You can place the red marks whenever you want them, and set any spacing you like (even if it is only 1 cross). Play around with the options and see what works best for you. Drawing the pattern 1. First of all, let’s choose the color. Click on the Eye Dropper tool on the toolbar. Left-click on the wine-red color. It will appear in your color chart. 2. Click on Line and create the objects 1, 2 and 3. 3. Now, click on Pencil, and create the objects 4, 5 and 6. Play with these tools a bit. Note the difference between them. Decide for yourself, in which cases you would prefer Line, and when Pencil would be better. 4. Click on the Eye dropper again, but this time choose grey. 5. Now click on Line and draw the objects 1,2 and 3. 6. Click on Pencil and draw the rest of the objects. We’re done with drawing. Let’s proceed to the last part, copying and pasting. Copying and placement Before copying and placing the symmetrical pattern, you’ll need to change the size of your work area. 1. Go to the Options menu and click on Preferences. 2. Check the Keep Aspect Ratio box and change the value to: 3. Your work area now looks like this: 4. Click on Marquee (vertical toolbar) and select your pattern. Press Auto Repeat. 5. In the opening window, set the following values: right pointing arrow (1), mirror horizontally (2), spacing -1 (3). Press OK. 6. Using the Marquee tool (step 4), select the pattern and click on Auto Repeat. 7. The window will pop up, where you set the following values: The arrow pointing down (1), mirror vertically (2), spacing -1 (3). Your pattern is ready. Save the file in the necessary format. For those who don’t want to bother with all that, here you can download the design. Original text by Irina Lisitsa, tutorial supplement by Lisa Prass
  2. Sewing essentials: Double stitched seam Double stitched seam is one of the basic seams that are used for sewing shirts, swing blouses, jeans, sport trousers, bed linen, etc. If you only have a sewing machine and no overlocker, no need to worry about it. Thanks to the double stitched seam, both right and wrong sides of your garment will look perfect. Ready? Let's go! Before you start working on the actual garment, find some leftover pieces of fabric and do some tests. In this tutorial, I’ll be using a piece of middle-weight fabric, but keep in mind that double seam is also suitable for delicate fraying fabrics as cheesecloth and batiste. I strongly advise against using it on highly stretchable knits, unless you’re an owner of a coverstitch machine with adjustable differential feed. Creating double stitched seam Far left needle position Standard Brother sewing machine presser foot Pink upper thread and turquoise lower thread Blue-colored wavy line on the right side of the fabric Put the fabric pieces with their wrong sides together. Stitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge. To get a nice straight row of stitches, use the scale on your standard presser foot. Keep the width steady by using a seam guide on your throat plate. In the photo, you can see the two details stitched together from the wrong side. Press the seam allowance with an iron. Put the details with their wrong sides together, circumventing the protruding seam allowance. Stitch at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge. You can choose a different value if you want. Play with the stitch width, do several test pieces and decide which one works best in your case. For the purposes of this tutorial, I set the values as follows: ready double stitch width 0.7 cm, seam allowance 1 cm (0.3 cm will be “lost” in turndowns). As a result, the wrong side of your garment will look like the one in the photo below. The edge of the fabric is hidden inside the seam allowance. After that, not a single loose thread will escape. Press the seam allowance with an iron. Right (the photo above) and wrong sides (the photo below). > Now all that’s left is to add a finish. It’ll kill two birds with one stone: secure the seam allowance on the wrong side and serve as a decoration. You may add one or two lines of decorative stitches. If you chose the latter of the two options, place the fabric under the foot and stitch the first line of decorative stitches at a distance of 0.25 cm from the joining stitchline. For the sake of convenience, you may draw a line with an erasable pen on the foot itself (see the photo). Or, you may skip this and proceed to the second line of decorative stitches. It will be just as durable, but on the right side, there will be less decoration. The second line of decorative stitches should lie at a distance of 0.7 cm from the joining stitchline. Use the scale on your presser foot while doing that. All done! You now have two parallel lines of stitches on the right side, and three on the wrong side. Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  3. Placemats with machine embroidery Preparing for a holiday, one must take a number of things into account, such as buying or creating presents, inviting guests, home decoration, etc. To make your table look inviting, you’ll only need several pieces of fabric and a sewing and embroidery machine. Sew the placemats and decorate them with machine embroidery that your guests will love! Placemats with machine embroidery. Materials Outer fabric Inner fabric Between-lay Tearaway adhesive stabilizer Sewing and embroidery threads Placemats with machine embroidery. Preparations Cut the 48x38 cm rectangles out of the outer and inner fabrics, as well as the between-lay material. Put them together in this way: first goes the inner fabric, right side down, then the between-lay, and the upper fabric with its right side up on top of it all. Pin the layers together and draw the straight or diagonal lines with the help of a long ruler. Using the walking foot with a guide, stitch the layers together along the lines you’ve just drawn. Start with the centerline, and gradually work your way to the sides. Placemats with machine embroidery. Embroidery Choose a design from the machine’s memory or download one from our store. When you use designs from your machine’s memory (letters, for example), you can change their size up to 20% directly in the machine. If you are in a mood for creativity, and the machine’s capabilities are not enough, you might want to use PE Design. Stick a tearaway adhesive to the wrong side of your fabric. Hoop and run the embroidery. After the machine has finished stitching, unhoop the fabric, and remove the stabilizer leftovers. Cut out the pockets or decorations for your placemat. In order to create a pocket for the cutlery, stitch on the seam allowance. Insert a cardboard pattern and gather the thread. Press the cutout with an iron. Placemats with machine embroidery. Assembling The pockets can be sewn on with a straight stitch on the sewing machine or by hand (blind stitch). For the neat edges, use the edge stitch foot. The details may be attached by a zigzag stitch or any of the decorative stitches. Bias binding is good for the edges. You can cut it from the main fabric or you may use the companion fabric to make your bias binding a part of the decoration. To attach it to the placemat, use the edge stitch foot. Placemats are easy to sew, and there is an unlimited number of decorations. Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  4. Heart-shaped scissors holder with embroidery Want to learn how the simplest design, a couple of stitches and tools make a cute item? This tutorial contains a bare minimum of technique, a couple of tips and a step-by-step guide to creating an original scissors holder shaped like a heart. A gift like this will warm the heart of any crafter. And, if you have a really creative sewer/embroiderer for a friend, who owns lots of scissors, you may even give it to them instead of a Valentine. Heart-shaped scissors holder with embroidery. Materials: Sole-colored fabric (non-stretchy) Felt (thick) Tearaway adhesive stabilizer Upper embroidery threads Lower embroidery threads Scissors Machine embroidery design Heart-shaped scissors holder with embroidery. The making process Prepare the necessary materials. Load the design into your embroidery machine and attach the sole-colored fabric to the stabilizer. This will be our front (embroidered) panel. I usually prefer a tearaway adhesive, but in this case, a nonadhesive tearaway will do just as good, as will a cutaway stabilizer. If you use the last one, you may leave it in place after embroidery; in that case, you’ll have a strengthened front panel. If you’ll choose to make an entire holder out of thick felt, you may spare the stabilizer altogether. The next step is to attach the hoop to the embroidery machine and start the embroidery. Home embroidery machine will make stops for a thread change. Once the embroidery is finished, unhoop. Leave the stabilizer in place, if you wish. On the embroidered fabric, draw a triangle in such a way that the design fits exactly in its center. Keep in mind the size of the scissors, for which the holder is intended. Before cutting the triangle out, decide whether you will fold the edges or not. If yes, don't forget to leave some fabric for seam allowance (or fraying, as shown in this tutorial). Pick up a sheet of paper, draw the triangle and then add two half-circles to transform it into a heart. You may skip this part and draw directly on felt. It is easier to draw on paper, so, if you're not an artist (I’m not), do as I did. Press the paper template to the felt and cut the back panel of your holder. You’re almost done. The fabric I chose for my front panel frays a bit. I decided not to fold the sides in order to hide the edges. In order to prevent the upper edge from fraying more than it is necessary for decoration, I add a decorative stitch at some distance from it. Now I join the sides with the back panel. I use threads of the same color as the felt. One last thing: I pierce a hole on the side and tie the ribbon in a bow. A piercer came with my sewing and embroidery machine. If you do not own one, use a substitute. Voila! Your scissors holder is ready! Original text by Mary Stratan Pick the design you like from our store! https://embroideres.com/
  5. Sewing in the hoop: An embroidered bag in the shape of a house An embroidered bag in the shape of a house For this job, you’ll need: A hoop, size 20 x 30 cm A design, size 20 x 30 cm A piece of yellow fabric, size 20 x 24 cm Two pieces of red fabric, size 20 x 8 cm each Two strips of fabric for the eyelets, size 7 x 3 cm each A piece of lining, size 32 x 18 cm Colored embroidery threads High-loft interfacing material (adhesive) Tearaway stabilizer A zipper If you’re going to use a Brother V machine, you’ll need to have the Premium Pack I installed to be able to enlarge the embroidery field to 20 x 30 cm. An embroidered bag in the shape of a house. Embroidery With an iron, fuse the high-loft interfacing material to the yellow fabric. Place a piece of tearaway stabilizer under the fabric and hoop them together. Make sure that the center of the yellow piece corresponds to the center of the hoop. Begin the embroidery. The machine will stitch the outline and make a stop. Don’t unhoop; place the red pieces on top. Fuse them to the high-loft interfacing material with an iron, fix the edges with glue and continue embroidery. Trim the extra fabric from the scallops and embroider the rest of the design. An embroidered bag in the shape of a house. Sewing Iron the embroidery and cut along the outline. Now create the eyelets. Fold the 14 3 cm strip of fabric in two, stitch along the longer side and turn the right side out. The ready eyelets should measure 7 x 2 cm. Fold the strip in two and stitch it to the right side of the fabric with a straight stitch, as shown in the picture. Sew the zipper to the upper part of the bag. Stitch the lining along the zipper. Fold the bag, right side inside, align the sides. Stitch the sides. Leave 5 cm of the lining for the turning out. Fold the lower corners inside and stitch across, 2 cm from the edge. Turn the right side out and iron. Drag a cord or a band through the eyelets. It will serve as a handle. Original text by Olga Milovanova
  6. Machine embroidery on leather. DIY bracelets Leather bracelets. Materials: A piece of leather or faux leather Dense interfacing material Tearaway nonadhesive stabilizer Temporary spray adhesive Upper thread Underthread Machine embroidery design A needle for metallics or for the leather Machine embroidery on leather: Tips When choosing a design, pick one that is not too heavy and with satin columns in it. Designs containing dense Tatami fills might cut the leather, causing the design to fall out. For your future bracelet, you can choose any shape you like and draw it in the editor, same way as you do appliqué. As for the stitch types, motifs and lightweight fills, straight single and triple running stitches or designs with loose Tatami fill will do fine. Choose a thin needle with a sharp tip; a thick one would cut through the leather, leaving a big hole in it. Embroidery on leather requires commitment, for it is hard to rip off the already embroidered part, and the holes made by the needle are permanent. More information about embroidery on leather in the article This Mysterious leather. If you're interested in more articles and tutorials on the subject, please don't be too shy to comment! We’ll appreciate the feedback. https://forum.embroideres.com/articles.html/articles/this-mysterious-leather-r73/ Before you start, don’t forget to reinforce your leather with fusible/woven interfacing of a suitable weight! Machine embroidery on leather. Method No1 Choose this one if you have a piece of leather of the same size as the design or bigger. Glue dense fusible interfacing to the back side of your leather piece. Hoop the cutaway nonadhesive stabilizer. Sprinkle the stab with a temporary spray adhesive. Stick your reinforced piece of leather to the stabilizer. Load the design into the machine and change your standard embroidery needle for a thin one with a sharp tip, the one you use with metallics. Or, if the leather you’re going to embroider is thick, better choose a leather needle instead. Set your machine to the minimum speed. When it has finished stitching, detach the hoop but do not unhoop the leather. Instead, sprinkle the wrong side of the stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive. Stick another piece of leather onto it. Wind the upper thread on a spool and attach it to the machine. Install the hoop back on the machine and zigzag through the layers to join them. Having done that, remove the hoop and trim the leather along the stitched outline on the right and wrong sides. Cut close to the stitching line. Attach the hoop once more and embroider the last part of the design, the satin column. Tear the stabilizer along the outline. Singe the stab leftovers with a lighter or candle. Machine embroidery on leather: Method No2 For the embroidery on thin or textured leather, it is crucial to choose the right interfacing material (fusible or woven). For bracelets, shirt collar interfacing will do splendidly. It is very dense and won't tear even when embroidering on a piece of thin leather. Lightweight sewing interfacing materials for the delicate fabrics or knitwear are not suitable for the job. The second method is handy whenever you have a small size piece of leather that should fit into a chosen shape. Load the design into the machine and attach the hoop. Embroider the outline and the first color of the design. Spray the stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive and press the piece of leather to it in such a way that it covers the stitched outline. The rest is done in the same way as in Method No1. Machine embroidery on leather. Assembling In the corners of the ready bracelets, poke holes for the eyelets, using a pair of pliers or a hole punch. Insert the eyelet into the holes. Pick up a grommet/eyelet setting tool and insert the eyelets. Once they are ready, drag a chain with a clasp through them. Enjoy your bracelets! Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  7. Work on Dreamcatcher embroidery design is in progress. You already can see some feathers decorating bottom part of this nice symbol. Author chose bright color of thread for this embroidery. It looks very beautiful and bright on dark background. It is nice composition based on contrast between them. But you can make your own choice suitable for your idea.
  8. This is first stage of work on Dreamcatcher embroidery design. Author choose bright color scheme for this sample: intensive shade of thread looks very beautiful on dark background. Dreamcatcher design requires only one color of thread so it is easy enough even for beginners. But you will definitely be satisfied with result cause it is really very beautiful picture.
  9. This picture shows beginning of work on Dreamcatcher embroidery design. It is quite easy sample that requires only one color of thread. But it is very interesting and elegant: this picture is able to give special charm and hint to ethnic style to any of your work piece. You can use it to decorate your clothing, textile bag or other accessory.
  10. Heart-shaped pincushion with a finish Let’s create a heart-shaped pincushion with decorative stitches as a gift for your fellow embroiderer. In the course of this tutorial, I used the stitches from Brother Innov-is 1E sewing and embroidery machine's memory. Heart-shaped pincushion. Materials A sheet of paper Pink fabric Underlay Sewing or embroidery threads Quilting and sewing needles Padding (quilting cotton, chlorofibre, etc.) Tearaway embroidery stabilizer Heart-shaped pincushion. Sewing Select a decorative stitch on your embroidery machine. Make a “sandwich” out of your stabilizer, fabric, and underlay. If your underlay has a sticky side, glue it to the fabric. Stitch the “sandwich” with decorative stitches, leaving 1–1.5 cm between them. Brother Innov-is V7 has lots of decorative stitches; one can find a suitable kind of stitch for any project or even create their own via My Custom Stitch. We’ll cover the latter issue in one of our future articles. Keep your eye on our updates! Draw a heart on the sheet of paper or use a ready template. Fold the drawing in half, with its right side inside. Trace the outline onto the fabric. For a hanger, you can cut a piece of band or cord and attach it to the heart’s center. Stick the pin through, using it as a marker for attaching the band. With your band/cord pinned, select the triple stitch on your machine and set the stitch length to 2.5 mm. Stitch along the outline. While joining the parts, don’t forget to leave an opening for turning out and stuffing. Cut the fabric close to the stitched line. Turn it the right side out. Use a peg or something like it at the corners. Stuff the heart with the padding of your choice, then sew the opening with a blind stitch. A heart-shaped pincushion is ready! Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  11. This picture shows one example from our beautiful series in vintage style. It contains different accessories for handicraft executed in special cross stitch technique. For instance Iron cross stitch free machine embroidery design is picture of iron surrounded by frame of amazing flowers. Interesting retro manner of this embroidery is underlined by rough and impressive texture of natural material.
  12. This is beautiful embroidery sample made in vintage style. It is silhouette of scissors surrounded by amazing flower frame. Sample is executed in cross stitch technique. Rough texture of natural material underlines its simplicity and beauty. You need our Scissors cross free embroidery design to create such picture. You may use it to decorate your box for handicraft or other textile accessories.
  13. This is beautiful and simple embroidery made in cross stitch technique. This picture shows stylized silhouette of sewing machine in frame of flowers. Sewing machine cross stitch free embroidery design is quite easy sample even for beginners in embroidery. This picture will be liked by all lovers of handicraft. You may use it to decorate of your box with threads or other sewing accessories.
  14. In fact this is practical accessory that is useful for every person who like handicraft. But when you look at it you can’t deny that it is also stylish souvenir. You don’t need to hide it into the box or locker cause it is really able to embellish your room. If you also like this thing you can create same work piece using our Star cross stitch free embroidery design.
  15. Make your own bias binding When sewing a garment, every little detail counts. However, it often happens that the most important one is missing. What if you need a bias binding, and the nearby craft shop has all the wrong colors? In that case, you can create your own bias binding. Read this article to learn how to make the binding of the right size, what tools to use and how to sew bias binding on the garment. Bias binding. Tools There are all kinds of tools for making bias binding that come in a variety of shapes; you can buy it in a specialty store. The number on a tool shows the width of bias binding with the folded edges. The double binding is two times narrower after being sewn on the edge of the garment. Bias binding. Tool size 6 mm—for the “textile mosaic” technique, which is used for decoration of dresses, shirts and so on. 12 mm—narrow bias binding, the width on a garment only 0.6 cm. It is cut from lightweight fabrics. Neck holes and armholes of the dresses/tunics, seams of the “high-class” garments, buttonholes on trousers and skirts. 18 mm—a good edge finishing for the garments or homemade textiles. It is, perhaps, the most common size, for you see it in the stores most often. This kind of binding is 0.9 cm wide when sewn. 25 mm—mostly for home textiles, table linen, kid’s clothes, such as bibs, pinafores, etc. 50 mm—almost a cording. It is used in the same way as 25 mm binding. The template should be exactly two times wider than the ready binding. For example, If you want 12 mm binding, you should cut a 12*2 = 24 mm tape. Align your fabric with the weft thread and the crosswise grain of the fabric (the one that runs along the selvage). Trim the selvage. Use a triangle ruler or a quilting ruler or fold the fabric at a 45° angle. Bias binding. Sewing the strips into one continuous tape Set the quilting foot with a blade on your machine, and select the straight stitch with the needle in a center position. Place the ends of the strips one over another with a 7 mm overlap, right sides together. The overlap is there for the stitching line that will join the strips. Stitch back and forth a few times at the beginning and the end. After sewing, press the seams open and flat. Trim the “dog ears”. Bias binding. Shaping Cut your binding on the bias; it will be easier to insert it into the bias binding maker this way. Feed the strip into the wide end of the maker and pull it out of the narrow one. You may poke it with a needle if the fabric is of a heavier kind. The strip of fabric will come out with folded edges. All you’ll need is to press them with an iron. Bias binding. Sewing The methods of attaching bias binding to the garment are aplenty. There are feet designed specifically for the purpose, which can be used in a variety of ways. We described one of them in our previous articles: Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  16. DIY anime style backpack Pause for a moment and consider: how many pairs of jeans are there in your wardrobe and how many of those you haven’t put on for ages? A pair of jeans that is not fashionable anymore or the one you're bored with can be given a new life with just a trifle of effort. Uncover your sewing and embroidery machine! Let’s create an anime style backpack for you or one of your friends. Read this tutorial to learn how. Are you with us? DIY anime style backpack. Materials A pair of jeans Lining fabric Zipper Bias binding (4 cm wide) Padding fabric Machine embroidery design Sewing and embroidery machine Machine embroidery threads DIY anime style backpack. Embroidery For this tutorial, I used a design already embroidered on a piece of white cotton fabric. You may do the embroidery right on the fabric you’ve chosen for your backpack if you want. The embroidery itself is easy. Attach a piece of tearaway adhesive stabilizer of appropriate weight to the wrong side of your fabric and hoop the whole thing. Load the design into the embroidery machine and attach the hoop. Hit the start button and do the embroidery, changing colors in accordance with the color chart that comes with your design. DIY anime style backpack. Sewing Out of the legs of your jeans, cut two rectangular pieces. You can make them any size you like; I used a pair of sneakers and a zipper as a reference. The resulting panels measured 40 x 30 cm. Place a zipper between the two denim pieces and join them with straight lines of stitches. Use a standard zipper foot. Now the front panel is ready. Check the measurements by placing your item of reference (sports shoes in my case) on top of it. Round the edges using a French curve or a soup bowl of a suitable diameter. Cut the identical panel for the back side of the backpack. Now you can cut the panels out of the padding and the lining fabrics. Place the back panel on top of the padding piece and draw the stitching pattern (diagonal squares in our case). Attach the walking foot and stitch along the traced lines. DIY anime style backpack. Appliqué Out of the embroidered piece, cut the design, leaving 2 cm allowance along the perimeter. Secure it of one of the two halves of the front panel. You can pin it or use a glue pencil or temporary spray adhesive. Choose the threads to match the color of your fabric. I picked the ones I used while embroidering the design: cyan for the hair, mauve for the skirt, etc. Straight stitch along the perimeter (stitch length 2, the needle in the center position). Trim the extra material close to the stitching line. Secure the embroidered panel with a zigzag stitch (the needle in the center position). Many computerized sewing machines with a speed regulator have an option of smooth zigzag width adjustment. Use the manual that comes with your equipment to learn what it’s capable of. Stitch the lining to the front panel along the zipper tape; after that, secure the lining along the edges. Sew the lining to the back panel close to the edge. Cut the denim leftovers to strips 7 cm wide for the side panels. Stitch together the short sides of the strips to make one long piece. Place this piece on top of the padding fabric and join it with the piece of lining. Join them with parallel straight lines of stitches. Trim the projecting edges of the padding and the lining fabrics. Fold the long side piece in two and find its center. Join the center of the long piece to the top of the backpack and baste the panels, leaving allowance on the right side. Having reached the center on the bottom side, mark the crossline and cut the extra material, leaving 1 cm for seam allowance. Sew the piece in the center and baste it to another panel of the backpack. Prepare a rectangular piece of fabric for the strap. Baste the hanger to the back side. Straight stitch through all layers. Trim the edges and finish them with the bias binding. Read about different ways of attaching the binding here: Original text by Irina Lisitsa Visit our store for oriental embroidery designs
  17. This is cool handmade embroidered phone case with squirrel sewing design. It is suitable for all who love handicraft and embroidery and respect interesting work pieces with original design. Picture executed on its surface is Squirrel sewing embroidery design. Case is made of dense jeans fabric that is able to protect your phone well from occasional stains or even damage.
  18. It is the funny picture which can be used for decoration of any textile accessories connected with hobby or handmade things. Here you can see the small squirrel which makes the embroidered band with red hearts using old style sewing machine. It is not enough tall so it need to take the bobbin of thread to achieve the working surface of sewing machine. Squirrel sewing embroidery design is the picture which requires some skills and humor.
  19. Sewing textile envelope: a tutorial Every little fashionista will be happy to have a pretty textile envelope for hairpins, hair ties, and other knickknacks. We’ll find appropriate summer colors, adding a bright touch with a decorative fabric. To add still more flavor, we’ll give the edges a special finish and embroider the owner’s signature. Read this tutorial and how to sew and embroider a textile envelope. Textile envelope: materials Fabrics (two colors) and cotton fabric band Bias binding (a ready one or made of the decorative fabric) Quilting foot (Art.F057:XC7416252) Edge foot (Art. F056N:XC6441252) Sewing threads, scissors or a rotary fabric cutter, and a cutting mat A piece of Velcro and a decorative button See how to create a bias binding in the following article: Textile envelope: cutting For a 15 x 28 cm, prepare the following: A square 30 x 30 cm out of the main fabric (the one with flowers) A square 30 x 30 cm cut out of the decorative fabric Bias binding (1.8 cm wide), a strip of fabric 30 cm long, and also a strip 150 cm long A cotton fabric decorative band 30 cm long A piece of Velcro size 0.5 x 2 cm. If there is no Velcro, you can use a button or a pair of strings. Textile envelope: sewing On your machine, select a straight stitch and lead the needle in the center position. Install the quilting foot with the guide. Fold the decorative fabric square and press the crease with an iron. Fold the panels with their right sides together and join them with the stitchline (don’t forget the seam allowance). The blade on the quilting foot makes stitching at an even distance from the edge much easier. Finish the edges with an overlock or use one of the edge seams on your sewing machine. Reduce the stitch length and sew on the decorative ribbon, aligning its straight edge with the crease. Fold the envelope so that its lower edge aligns with the seam joining the two fabrics, and the upper one with the folding line. If necessary, you can trim the edges a bit. Finish the edges of the bias binding with a strip of the decorative fabric 30 cm wide. If you prepare your binding by folding it in two and pressing the crease with an iron, you will be able to use the quilting foot for sewing it on. Now, reduce the length of the envelope to 28 cm. A cutting mat, a rotary fabric cutter, and a ruler will help you with this. Round the edges of the outer panel. Finish the edges with the bias binding. The lower part of the envelope and the pocket should be processed together. If you're an experienced sewer, just pin the details together and stitch, and if a beginner, baste them first. Stitch the bias binding to the envelope. Textile envelope: embroidery You can personalize your envelope with machine embroidery. Brother sewing and embroidery machines have lots of in-built character sets for inscriptions. Create an inscription of a suitable size, using a character set of your choice. Hoop the nonadhesive tearaway stabilizer, sprinkle it slightly with a temporary spray adhesive and secure the flap. Do the embroidery and remove the stabilizer leftovers. Place the panel on a soft underlay with the right side of the embroidery facing down and iron it. Attach Velcro to the flap and the main part of the envelope so that it could safely close. Sew on a decorative button. All finished! Pleasant sewing! Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  20. Sewing toys: a machine embroidered soft ball It is relatively easy to sew a child’s toy: there are a lot of patterns on the Web. If you have an embroidery machine, you can decorate the toy with the monogram with the child’s initials, the name of his or her favorite group or sports team. There are tons of possible variants. Read this tutorial and learn how to assemble a soft ball from appliqué panels. Sewing toys: materials Machine embroidery design Felt 2 mm thick, 3 colors Tearaway nonadhesive stabilizer Upper thread Underthread Sewing toys: sewing order Load the design into your embroidery or sewing and embroidery machine. Hoop a nonadhesive tearaway stabilizer, attach it to the embroidery machine and embroider the first line, which will serve as a guide for positioning your felt panels. After that, the machine will stop and you will place your felt panels of different colors onto the stabilizer. I've conceived a two-color soft ball. The stitchline of the next color will join the felt and the stabilizer, and the one after that will serve as a guide for the manual sewing of the panels. Depending on the design you've chosen (mine is appliqué), you’ll need to change the upper thread color. In appliqué, the layers are sewn on one after the other. In this case, it’s yellow, like the future logo background. Having sewn on the detail of your future appliqué, trim the edge with sharp scissors. After that, you embroider the appliqué panel. On another panel of my ball, I’ve decided to place a child’s initial. For this, I used the character sets from the Brother Innov-is LE memory. I enlarged the letter using the resize option. All manipulations with letters should be performed before the embroidery starts, in the Embroidery Edit mode! Having finished the embroidery, remove the leftovers of your tearaway from the panels and cut them, leaving 0.5 to 1 cm allowance. Sew the details like a biscornu pincushion (translator's note: a tutorial will be added in the nearest future!) Visit our store for an Embroidery library of logos! Original text by Irina Lisitsa
  21. Patchwork pillow A soft and fuzzy pillow with frayed edges that one can easily create by utilizing scraps from other embroidery projects. The edges will become more frayed with every time the pillow is used. The pattern is basically an ordinary square; the seams will go inside so they won’t need a finish. One cannot have too many pillows, but what if you have more ideas than your flat has free space? The solution is a simple one! Sew several pillows and change their “clothing” often. Pillowcases don’t take much space and can be washed, if necessary. Pattern To create a fluffy pillowcase, take a piece of cardboard and draw a square of side 10 cm plus 2 cm for fraying. Cut out 16 squares from fabrics of various colors. Arrange them as you wish, matching them by color and print. Cut 16 more squares out of white baize or white chintz; these fabrics are easily frayed and suitable for creating the chenille effect. Install the feed dog on your machine and stitch the cutouts together into horizontal bands. If you're going to join multiple layers (4 in our case) with an ordinary foot, lessen the foot pressure first. The details should be joined with their wrong sides facing each other. Pin horizontal bands together, in order to mark the places where the seams meet. Stitch the details together, folding the fray allowance from the seam on both sides before they go under the foot. Having finished stitching, you’ll get the outlined squares on the wrong side, and fray allowance on the right side of the fabric. Rip off the stitching where the fray is. Fray the allowance at a distance of 0.5 cm to the stitching and fluff it. You may leave the last bit to your washing machine :) Several washing cycles will fray your pillowcase alright. The back side of the pillowcase and the button panels: The back side of the pillowcase is comprised of two rectangles 48 by 27 cm. On one side, where the button panels will be, attach a 3 cm wide strip of the adhesive stabilizer. Finish the edges with overlock or with overhand stitch. Fold the edge by 3 cm and stitch with a straight stitch; cut the buttonholes on one of the details. Pin the two pieces of the back side of the pillowcase together with their wrong sides facing each other. Mark the starting point at the distance equal to the fray allowance. Starting from any corner point, sew the parts of the pillow perimeter-wise, rotating it at the corners. Having finished, trim the edges. Cut the fabric reserved for fraying, avoiding the stitching. Sew the buttons, cut the buttonholes and put your pillow into your new pillowcase. Done! Original text by Olga Ionova
  22. The “Hawaiian” bag It’s spring, at last, the sun comes out more and more frequently and twinkles between the tree branches. Soon, the emerald-green verdure will appear and nature will dress in the rainbow colors. Time has come to sew a new vibrant-colored bag for the spring-summer season. Read this step-by-step tutorial to know how. For this job, you’ll need: ScanNCut – an electronic cutting machine Iron-on contact sheet for the appliqué A piece of black fabric 82 x 50 cm Two brightly colored zippers, each 18°cm long Hot melt glue voluminous adhesive for making the bag harder 4 pieces of bright sole-colored fabrics 15 x 15 cm each 4 appliqué printouts, 13 x 13 cm You can download them on the Web Black and colored sewing threads The “Hawaiian” bag: cutting out the panels Cut the panels of the future bag out of the black fabric: 4 pieces,15 x 15 cm each, for the appliqué 2 pieces, 62 x8 cm each, for the bag's top and bottom 1 piece, 23 x11 cm, 1 piece, 23 x 8 cm, 1 piece, 23 x12 cm, for the insert on the back side 4 pieces, 23 x 12 cm each, for the pockets 1 piece, 82 x5 cm, for the top of the bag 2 pieces, 70 x 10 cm each, for the handles The “Hawaiian” bag: preparing the fabric for ScanNCut Take an iron and press the hot melt glue backing to the wrong side of the 15 x 15 cm piece of fabric; the sticker with a picture of an iron should be facing up. After the fabric has cooled, peel off the protective paper from the wrong side of the fabric. Secure the fabric on the cutting mat and do the test cut (blade length 5, pressure 3). If the test cut was successful (the fabric was cut and the mat wasn’t), proceed to the next step. Stick the printout onto your mat. Select Direct Cut. The machine will scan the surface of the mat and the image will appear on the screen. Select the image No 3 and save it. Now go to the Saved Objects and open the saved file on your screen. Check if the image was scanned correctly. Sometimes the machine adds extra dashes and lines while scanning. Select them and press Del. Secure the fabric and scan the surface of the mat. Place the image so that it doesn't cross the edges of the fabric. Cut. Using a spatula, designed specifically for this purpose, detach the fabric from the mat. You can make two appliqué pieces from this cutout. I used the outer side for my bag. Put the appliqué piece on top of the bright sole-colored fabric and iron it. In the same fashion, cut the rest of the appliqué pieces and press them with the iron to the fabric. Position all four pieces edge-to-edge. This will get you a rectangle 60 x 15 cm in size. Cover the edges with a black strip of fabric 1 cm wide. Iron the strip. The “Hawaiian” bag: appliqué Select the quilting mode on your machine. Choose the buttonhole stitch or something similar. Stitch the appliqué with black threads perimeter-wise. Press it with the iron and trim the edges. The “Hawaiian” bag: sewing the bag Prepare the back panel. Sew the patches and zippers to it. On the wrong side, sew the pockets to the zippers. Sew two strips of black fabric, 62x8 cm each, to the top and bottom of the appliqué. Attach the inset with the pockets to the bag and draw the lines for stitching 1 cm apart. Stitch with colored threads as marked. Fold the panel so that it makes a circle and stitch. Pin the handles to the top edge. Sew the border, stitching along the edge on the right side of the bag. Prepare the bottom of the bag. You can sew it from the appliqué leftovers. Sew the bottom to the bag. Add the lining and the bag is ready. Original text by Olga Milovanova
  23. There is the original postcard which will definitely please the person who likes to create handmade work piece. Instead of traditional paper background it has fabric of light grey color. Furthermore it has thematic design on its front side. It is Needlework set embroidery design which includes all necessary things for needlewoman. They are needle itself and also thread, the tape and scissors which are surrounded by the beautiful red flowers.
  24. It is the case for storage of sewing machine. The bright pink color of its background is added with some funny embroidery samples made on the separate pieces of fabric. All of them are devoted to the hobbies connected with different manners of sewing — with machine or with hands. The main of them is Sometimes a girl's just gotta sew embroidery design, the other one is Hand made embroidery design.
  25. Here is the case for sewing machine made of the fabric of intensive pink color. It is decorated with few embroidery samples executed separately on the black patches and then sewn on the side of case. One of them is Love is patient, love is kind embroidery design which is the center of the whole composition. We also used Sewing is my hobby embroidery design to make this thing truly unique.
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