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Beautiful design, Morning owl look amazing.

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Stitched out beautifully! Looked amazing and no issues!
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Loving birds.. Wonderful designs, stitched out beautifully

Really cute, You love this when you stitched it. Would love more of same designs.
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Stitched out beautifully! Wonderful decoration!
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Adorable design. Stitches out beautifully.

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    Tearaway adhesive stabilizer

    Tearaway adhesive stabilizers are used for the embroidery on various fabrics. The main goal of a sticky stabilizer is the prevention of puckering; it is, perhaps, its only goal if you don’t count the ones that rampant imagination can conjure. Adhesive stabilizers vary in weight. The most lightweight stabilizers are intended for delicate fabrics (batiste, sateen, satin). Heavier stabilizers are used when working with such fabrics as drape cloth, linen, denim, etc.
    Tearaway adhesive stabilizer
    You can purchase black and white stabilizers in world As I’ve already said, they vary in weight: the higher the weight, the thicker and stronger the stabilizer. Stabilizers are similar to paper made from pressed fibers, they have one coarse and one smooth side covered with a layer of glue. The only difference between sticky and non-sticky stabilizers is the adhesive layer. It allows gluing fabric to the stabilizer with the help of an iron and nothing else.
    Weight is the main property of a stabilizer. It is measured in grams per m2. The greater the number, the denser the stabilizer. The figure may vary from 25 to 130 g/m2. The lightweight stabilizers are used with thin and delicate fabrics, whereas heavyweight stabilizers – with dense and thick ones.
    Composition: 50-70% cellulose and 25-30% synthetic fibers, also 100% rayon or 100% polyester.
    Stabilizers are often sold without any marking, and newbies get puzzled trying to figure out whether it is good for the fabric they've chosen or not. It is very easy to define stabilizer density by touch. Feel the material and take a cue from that. The stabilizer should not be much denser than your chosen fabric, otherwise, you’ll get a thick patch on the thin fabric.
    When buying an adhesive stabilizer, try and learn who produced it, how it is marked and what fabrics it is intended for. In case it's difficult for you to remember a wide variety of stabilizers, create a supplementary sheet for every one you own, fill in all the relevant information and attach a sample. This will help you to distinguish among the different types of stabilizers.
    Usage embroidery stabilizer.
    Sticky stabilizers are used when there is a high possibility of puckering during the embroidery, and no hooping restrictions apply.
    In order to attach the stabilizer, place the fabric with its wrong side facing up, and put the stabilizer on top of it with its sticky side facing fabric. With a hot iron glue the stabilizer to it. Hoop the “sandwich” with the right side of the fabric facing upward.

    After the embroidery is completed, carefully tear away the stabilizer along the edges. Tearaway adhesive stabilizers are also noted for being easy to remove from the wrong side of the fabric after the work has been completed.

    If the stabilizer does not tear, it is not a tearaway, but a cutaway. A tearaway adhesive stabilizer should tear easily in all directions. When purchasing a stabilizer, give preference to those that tear more easily. They will make your job easier.
    It’s better not to use tearaway adhesive stabilizers when doing Walk Stitch or Run Stitch because they are hard to remove from the wrong side. If, for one reason or another, you had to use a stabilizer, tear it away gently on completion, so as not to damage the stitch lines.
    Storage rules.
    Store the carefully folded stabilizers in a plastic bag where the sun cannot reach them. Bear in mind that the stabilizer’s adhesive layer may deteriorate in the course of time, and therefore, do not buy the three years supply. Keep to the minimum. Try not to crease the stabilizer, because this will damage its adhesive properties.

    Making lace on the edge of the napkin using embroidery.

    Embroidered napkins are the classic decoration of a modern house. They easily fit into the interior of any living room or kitchen. If you have an embroidery machine and free time, you can make it yourself. It is needed sometimes to process the edge of a fabric beautifully.
    There are a lot of creative methods to do this and we will consider one in the master-class: lace making on the edge of a items. One may decorate a dining cotton napkin, a handkerchief or any other items this way. There is a plenty of machine embroidery designs in FSL technique, choose the one you prefer for your items. Such patterns can be easily found in our embroidery design library.
    Materials which you need for work:  
    Water soluble machine embroidery stabilizer (interlining). Our recommendation Avalon. Adhesive spray of a temporary fixation Sulky or GUNOLD KK100 Top thread for machine embroidery (any brand) - we using Robison Anton Lower thread for machine embroidery or bobbins Fabric for the napkin Processing of lace on the edge of a embroidered item:
    Fix the water soluble stabilizer in the hoop. Download the embroidery design to the your machine (or save to USB stick or special memory card). Start the embroidery processing. The first stitching would mark where to layout the edge of the tissue on the stabilizer.

    Apply a layer of the adhesive spray on the stabilizer. Glue the tissue by markup and repeat the stitching of the first thread color, this would fix the tissue on the stabilizer. Then keep on embroidering the lace part of the napkin.

    The embroidery would be on the edge and on the corner, if you combined the machine embroidery design in a special editing software (My Editor, Embird, Brother Pe-DEsign, Wilcom TrueSizer, Buzz Tools and etc.). The processing of the other parts of the napkin would be repeated with connection. Fix the water soluble stabilizer in the hoop again and embroider the first color of the pattern. Fasten the second corner of the napkin on the stabilizer.

    Repeat the process of embroidering the design on the edge round the napkin.

    Cut off the stabilizer close to the edge of the embroidery. Rinse the embroidered napkin with the lace edge in plenty of warm water at the end of work.

    Napkin ready. In the same way you can arrange a tablecloth or a handkerchief.

    Madeira’s Avalon water-soluble stabilizers

    Hi friends! Today we’ll talk about water-soluble stabilizers by Madeira. I’ll try to show you what they can do and where you may apply them.
    Madeira has a line of water-soluble stabilizers named Avalon. Therefore, it is not correct to apply this name to all water-soluble products. When we say ‘Avalon’, we mean Madeira, and when we say ‘Madeira’, Avalon is implied. Madeira offers 4 items in that department. They have different properties and functions.
    Avalon Film
    A thin semitransparent water-soluble film. To the touch, it is like a plastic bag. This stabilizer can only be used as a topping. It is good for terry cloth, piled fabrics, knits, and fur. You put it on top of your fabric in order to prevent the sinking of the stitches.
    Avalon Ultra
    Dense water-soluble film. It looks very similar to the greenhouse covering material. Machine embroiderers use it as a main fabric when creating thin diaphanous laces, such as Battenberg lace or Vologda lace. You hoop the stabilizer, choose a design of a certain kind, and embroider. The dense film is also used for cutwork and Hardanger, where you cut out the holes and then apply the material.
    Avalon Plus
    A non-woven material that is also used as a main fabric for the embroidery. Works well for felting, cutwork, and Hardanger embroidery. If you’re making lace and want it to maintain its shape in future, Avalon Plus is the right choice. You hoop the stabilizer and embroider. After the embroidery is completed, the stabilizer is washed away.
    If you want my personal opinion, I like Avalon Plus more. To me, it seems more reliable, though while I was writing this article, I asked Irina Lisitza, our technology specialist, and she said that for thin laces, she prefers Avalon Ultra because it washes out better.
    Avalon Fix
    This one is similar in structure to Avalon Plus, but with an adhesive layer and protection paper cover. It is used as backing for embroidery on very thin and diaphanous fabrics, such as batiste, tulle netting, and organza. In other words, in all those cases where the stabilizer is hard to remove or where it makes the embroidery too dense. The making process is simple. You hoop the stabilizer, cut the protective cover, put your fabric on top of it and do the embroidery.
    This is all, in a nutshell. Happy embroidery! 

    Filmoplast – an adhesive stabilizer for machine embroidery

    Filmoplast is a stabilizer for machine embroidery that has an adhesive layer. Its main purpose is to reduce the time spent on hooping, to enable you to embroider small details and to embroider designs on dense unhoopable fabrics. Used as a backing, Filmoplast prevents the fabric from puckering. It is of a tearaway variety, and is removed once the embroidery is completed.
    Filmoplast is a TM of Neschen company. It comes in ribbons for mending books. Gunold, the company that brought it into machine embroidery, issues it in two colors (black an white), in rolls or precut sheets, of one weight (1.6 oz, Filmoplast 140). (Note: it used to be 80, 120 and 140; the first two are no longer in production).
    Filmoplast usage

    Filmoplast is used as a backing whenever it is not possible to hoop the fabric. For example, when the item is too small (a pocket, a collar, a cuff, etc.), or the fabric is too dense that it makes it unhoopable, the garment is of a specific shape (caps, in the absence of the cap frame), cloth caps, hats.
    Or, it not recommended to hoop the fabric in order not to damage it. Velvet, some knits, thin leather can be cited as an example.
    Filmoplast is a perfect substitute for the “tearaway stabilizer + temporary spray adhesive” combo.  It is also used for speeding up the embroidery process when it is necessary to embroider a large number of single-type designs. In cases like that, you hoop Filmoplast, cut the rectangle the size of the design and stick the garments or their parts to it one after the other.
    Storing Filmoplast
    Filmoplast does not require special storage conditions. It simply should not be crinkled. It is better to store it in rolls or in sheets precut for the specified size. Do not leave Filmoplast on the windowsill where the sun can reach it: that may damage the adhesive layer. Do not buy Filmoplast enough to last you through the whole life, because the adhesive layer is not imperishable. It only has 2 years of shelf life.

    Pinpoint: Perfect design placement on Bernina machines

    Should you ask me 5 or 7 years ago, what are the main points when choosing an embroidery machine, I would undoubtedly say, “The size of the machine frame and your wallet.” Today I will answer, “Look at the what the machine can do!” Contemporary home embroidery machines are reaching their limit as regards the hoop/frame size. You cannot infinitely enlarge the embroidery area and stay affordable for the majority of people. You need to find other ways. One of those is to add to the machine’s functionality. Pinpoint Placement, the perfect alignment of the parts of the embroidery, is exactly what an embroiderer needs. No size limit. Split up – Position – Go!
    Pinpoint: Perfect alignment
    Hi friends!
    Should you ask me 5 or 7 years ago, what are the main points when choosing an embroidery machine, I would undoubtedly say, “The size of the machine frame and your wallet.” Today I will answer, “Look at the what the machine can do!”
    Contemporary home embroidery machines are reaching their limit as regards the hoop/frame size. You cannot infinitely enlarge the embroidery area and stay affordable for the majority of people. You need to find other ways.
    One of those is to add to the machine’s functionality.
    Pinpoint Placement, the perfect alignment of the parts of the embroidery, is exactly what an embroiderer needs. No size limit. Split up – Position – Go!
    This information is meant for those who are planning to buy or have already bought a Bernina sewing and embroidery machine, but hasn’t yet explored all its capabilities. Today we’ll talk about a Pinpoint Placement option that allows you to position the design on a garment with accuracy to one mm, and also to align different parts of the pattern and embroider designs several times larger than your hoop. The most perfect examples are the border designs, replicated again and again.
    Pinpoint Placement is an option available in some Bernina models: Embroidery machines: Bernina 700, Bernina 500; Sewing and embroidery machines: Bernina 590, Bernina 790 Plus, and Bernina 880 Plus. This is how it’s done. You decide where on the garment you’ll place the future embroidery. With chalk or a marker, draw two positioning points. Now hoop the garment not bothering about the exact placement. The main thing is to match the size of your design with the embroidery area. Then the magic starts.
    You pick the necessary design in your machine. Touch the PinPoint button, then activate the Grid and choose two of the nine positioning dots. You will align the needle with the chosen positioning points. To do this, rotate the Multifunction Knobs until the needle will be in the right position, directly above your mark. Fix the position by touching Set.  Now, let’s align the needle with another of our two dots. Choose the other one of our two points and rotate the Multifunction Knobs until the needle will be right above the mark on the garment. Done. Now you can do the embroidery.
    There is also free point positioning. Here you mark a random spot on your garment, touch the right spot on the design, rotate the Multifunction Knobs until the needle is directly above the mark. Then repeat with the second positioning dot.

    Applique in machine embroidery

    Applique as an embroidery technique
    Patchwork, or applique, is a way of creating a machine embroidery design by attaching pieces of material to the fabric with the help of various types of stitches. Applique covers a whole range of areas, from the rather laconic folk art and ornaments for kids to complex models, full of artistic value. Methods of creation of an applique depend on your machine’s capabilities and the structure of the design. 
    Applique goes back a long time. Perhaps, the first step toward the new technique was made by a man sewing a few skins together in order to make clothes, who looked at the stitches and realized they could be used for decoration. He attached the small pieces onto the big ones, and thus the applique was born.
    It is commonly believed that this technique came to Europe from Asia via the Silk Road.
    There are 10 kinds of applique in machine embroidery as yet, and the creation process largely depends on the one you choose.
    1. Joining applique is used for decoration, for dresses and blouses and also whenever you need to join together pieces of different fabrics. These fabrics should be of the same texture and color.  Make sure that the edges overlap so that they cover the entire embroidery design, plus 2 cm allowance on each side. Trace the design onto the applique fabric, and place it over the main fabric. Baste the two fabrics together, hoop with the design facing up and stitch the contours of the design twice. Trim the extra material around the seam, leaving 1 mm allowance. Finish the edges with a hemstitch or a satin stitch.
    2.  Patched applique means the attachment of details consisting of one or several layers onto the fabric with the help of various types of stitches and supplementary materials (cord, ribbon, etc.). This type of applique creates the raised effect. The extra pieces of material can be trimmed in two ways, either manually or with a laser, according to the preexisting pattern. The edges of the applique fabric can also be finished in two different ways: either covered with various stitches (traditional applique) or left as it is (raw edge/ragged edge applique).
    3. Backing applique – the simplest kind of appliqué, also called the put-under applique. It is used with thin transparent fabrics for holiday clothes decoration. Thin silk threads (No 65) should be used for this kind of embroidery. Baste the backing material to the underside of the fabric with the design traced upon it. The backing piece should be bigger than the design, leaving at least 1.5 cm on all sides.
    4. Openwork/reverse applique. Several layers of applique fabric are placed underneath the main fabric and the whole thing is stitched together. The main fabric is cut, and the edges are finished with satin columns or zigzags, or any kinds of stitches used in appliqué. 
    5. 3D applique uses additional objects (embroidered or not) that are sewn onto the main fabric, but only partly, in order to create volume.
    6. Quilt is a kind of appliqué where no less than 3 layers of fabric are used. A three-dimensional motif is created on the surface, thus giving it volume.
    7. Padded applique Padded appliqué is an ordinary kind of appliqué with a special material under the appliqué fabric called padding. Puffy, polyester batting, foam rubber, and other materials can be used for padding.
    8. Double-sided applique, where the appliqué fabric is placed on both front and back sides of the main fabric.
    9. Stained glass/Celtic applique, where pieces of fabrics are joined butt-to-butt and the joint place is covered with a satin stitch border. You get something that resembles a mosaic panel.
    10.  There are two purposes of using appliqué under the low-density fills.
    1. To get a tincture. Lower the fill density by 30-40% and put a fabric of a different color underneath to create an effect. For example, a blue applique covered with a yellow fill will appear green.
    2. To save stitches.  In this case, the applique and the threads used for the filling should be of the same color.
    Appliqué covers a whole range of areas,
    Clothing decoration and alteration (especially, kids’ clothing)
    clothing repair (you can cover wear and tear with patches of various shapes)
    creation of one-of-a-kind garments (by using your own imagination and skills)
    making the embroidery softer (a garment with an appliqué is softer than the one covered with machine embroidery)
    saving stitches on big-size objects
    Before embarking on such a project, you’ll need to choose an applique fabric. There are several rules you need to follow:
    Better not to combine light-colored single-tone fabrics with vibrant ones, for the sheer reason that lighter parts will get smudged during washing as well as steaming;
    Fabric structure should be similar;
    Combining steaming-friendly fabrics with the ones that don’t respond well to steaming is not preferable;
    When in doubt, try dousing a piece of fabric in water and drying it with a steamer – if it has not warped, if its shape hasn’t changed, the fabric will most probably suit you just fine;
    Bear in mind that the grain line of the applique fabric should be consistent with the one in the fabric, onto which you are sewing it.
    Working with applique will require a wide selection of threads. This is due to the fact that every piece of appliqué should have a matching thread color (or a contrasting one). Sometimes you’ll need to choose a thread of a lighter or a darker tone in order to create a shade. The essential point is to remember that the upper and the lower threads should match in thickness, thus enabling your machine to not overload. 
    Various kinds of threads can be used (silk ones and metallics), the main thing is to choose them appropriately.
    Some general tips on fabrics: 
    Jersey is a thin and compliant knitwear fabric that doesn’t fray. Very rarely used in appliqué, it is positively unsuitable as a backing.
    Denims are excellent for the backing. They hold the line of stitches in place and stick to the main fabric without slipping.
    Thin drape cloth is also good for the backing, provided that it is not ribbed. You can choose any kind of main fabric, including the narrow mesh.
    Dense satins are very good for the backing, too. Satins are slippery, and thus require a dense main fabric (ticking or two-thread). Try to avoid excessive needle and pin penetration – that will leave holes in it. Do not go overboard with the steaming, or the fabric will lose part of its sheen, and its muslin foundation will become visible.
    Velvet is good for patchwork but very demanding. Better to patch it onto the thin interfacing material. If you own an old sewing machine model, you’ll need to adjust it in a particular way. If possible, avoid steaming (the pile will sink, exposing the foundation, and the all the sheen will go away).
    Coat canvas is a bit too coarse for the foundation material and comes in a limited number of colors, but this is a matter of preference.
    Velour is perfect for an applique. It cuts well, doesn’t fray or change its shape, and responds well to the needle.  
    Rayon can only be used with the dense stabilizer.
    Gabardine can be used as a backing if it is thin and has minimal ribbing.
    Chamois with its nice clean edge is, too, used for patchwork. Dense chamois requires reducing the stitch count.
    Crepe-de-chine is indispensable due to its color effects but should be stabilized.
    Linen is ideal for the backing. Almost any appliqué will look good on such a natural-looking, unassuming background. Retains its smoothness when embroidered or decorated with rhinestones.
    Polyester is an omni-purpose fabric, very durable and often pleasant to the eye. Thin polyester is an excellent backing material.
    Basketweave is also very good for the background. It behaves well under the needle, doesn't crease much, and its density and thickness are just right.
    Cotton is only used for the simplest household items (pot holders, napkins, tablecloths, heating pad covers).
    Flannel behaves well without the stabilizer, but one should avoid sharp angles when cutting on the bias – the fabric begins to stretch.
    Chiffon of all kinds and colors can be used in patchwork, though it should be strengthened with a dense white interfacing material. White is essential to make the colors stand out and cover the background. Chiffon is excellent when you need airiness and transparency, for example in the wings of a butterfly.
    We wish you many exciting discoveries when working with applique!

    Thread tension and factors that influence it. Testing and adjustment

    Embroidery manufacture is a rather complex and nuanced technical process that requires vast knowledge and a huge variety of skills. Thread tension maladjustment is one of the main sources of troubles for beginners. In order to choose the right thread tension, one needs to adhere to these rules:
    While drawing the thread through a needle, follow your embroidery machine guide step by step. Having loaded the design into your machine, make adjustments to the thread tensioning mechanism until you get the necessary quality. ALL the threads should be checked. Many embroiderers use the so-called l-test that allows one to check the tension of every thread. Having embroidered the ‘l’ letter with all the threads of all colors, unhoop your test piece and inspect the wrong side. Ideally, the upper thread should only occupy the middle part of every satin column (if satin stitches were used). If the middle part comes out small or is absent entirely, the upper thread tension needs adjustment.
    Another way of checking the thread tension is a “FOX” test, also called the “Thirds” test. Stitch out the letters “FOX” on a piece of fabric that will be used for sewing, approximately 4 cm high. After that, turn it with its wrong side out and check the underside: there should be three visibly discernible parts. The lower thread should occupy the middle, while the upper thread fills the two-thirds flanking it. If the upper thread fills more than two thirds, you need to lower the thread tension.
    Thread-tensioning is done by operating the two knobs, the upper and the lower ones. Turning a dial two complete circles each way will set it in the outermost position. One shouldn’t forget the factors that may influence the thread tension that seem completely irrelevant but will become important once you've changed the machine’s speed. You can compensate by setting the dial at the outermost position. Let’s look upon some of those factors.
    Color The coloring process may alter the thread surface so that it will pass through the machine in a different way. Thread weight Number 40 threads are commonly used on embroidery machines; denser or lighter threads will pass through the machine in a different way. The machine's speed Putting on speed, you increase the thread tension. Needle size Smaller eye causes more friction and increases the thread tension. Litter Thread tension may be excessive because of the small particles of dust or dirt that have accumulated on the thread

    How to embroider hearts on socks

    Today we want to offer you a somewhat uncommon and not too well-known design: hearts on socks. You can make socks like that for yourself as well as for your kid. You can even embroider several pairs with this one free machine embroidery design: a small heart. For that, you’ll need to alter the design a little – for example, change the color or rearrange the hearts pattern.
    Before we begin, I’d like to point out that some embroidery machines (ELNA 9900, TAJIMA, HAPPY RICH, BARUDAN) are equipped with a special device for embroidery on socks and mittens. It makes the embroidery process much simpler. For some, this device is a real treasure.
    But most often even the advanced embroiderers don't own it. For that reason, I’m going to tell you how to do without such a gadget and successfully embroider a free machine embroidery design – a heart – on socks.
    The best and easiest way is to embroider on the elastic part. Hoop the medium weight cutaway stabilizer. Pin the sock on top of it in such a way that the resulting embroidery will be on its right, and not the wrong, side. Embroider the design. During the embroidery, you should keep an eye on the rest of the sock so that it doesn’t get stitched. After that, trim the extra stabilizer.
    Not as difficult as it seemed, right?
    For those who own the aforementioned gadget but don't know how to mount and use it, here’s a guideline. It is clear and simple – you will get the gist of it in a couple of minutes.
    How to attach a device for the embroidery on socks and mittens to the machine?
    First of all, make sure that the machine is switched off. You need to do this in order to follow all the safety and work instructions so that you don't get hurt.
    After that, unscrew the horizontal bar of the frame holder and remove it from the machine.
    Then place the sock frame holder to the slots in the carriage and screw it with two screws.
    The set consists of two embroidery frames (marked with a letter and a number, for example, S1 and S2) and two supporting accessories for them.
    Place the cutaway stabilizer on top of the base of the sock frame.
    On the right side of the sock, mark the center-lines in order to place the design right.
    Put the sock onto the supporting accessory in such a way that the center-lines you've drawn align with the lines on the device. Smooth out the stabilizer while you’re doing that. Insert the upper part of the frame into a sock.
    Check the stabilizer position. It should be placed between the two parts of the sock exactly in the middle.
    In order to remove the supporting accessory, pull the sock frame upwards.
    Now turn in the lower part of the sock so that it doesn't get in the way.
    Check the alignment of the center-lines.
    How to embroider on socks with the help of the special attachment and frame?
    First of all, remember that such a frame should not be set up before switching the machine on. Otherwise, it may have a negative effect on its work.
    Choose a proper hoop size and a design, previously loaded into the machine. Press OK and embroider.
    On completion, unhoop the sock and trim the extra stabilizer.
    - To embroider another sock (the right one differs from the left, as you know), turn it the other way round and embroider on the other side.
    The embroidery is ready.

    Dog clothes with machine embroidery

    Winter chill is tough for our little furry friends. In order to warm your pet up in the cold weather, make a dog coat and embellish it with machine embroidery. Making dog clothes doesn't necessarily involve complex patterns and complicated technical operations. In this masterclass, I’ll show you how to do create a pattern for a dog cape in any size that can be sewn and embroidered within an hour.
    Necessary materials:

    1. 3/4 m of fabric for the outer layer of the item, such as denim or cotton
    2. 3/4 of fleece for the inner lining
    3. Medium-weight cutaway stabilizer
    4. Temporary spray adhesive
    5. Measuring tape
    6. Dressmaker’s pencil
    7. A big sheet of Whatman paper
    8. A round jar lid, 12 cm in diameter
    This is the machine embroidery design I used: Bad to the Bone - Lg  or A Fur-rociously Fun Design Pack - Lg
    Dog clothes Creating a pattern
    The size of the pattern depends on the size of your dog.

    Pick up a measuring tape and measure the following parameters: neck circumference (where the collar usually is), chest circumference (at its widest), the length of the dog from the back of the neck to the tail. Write them down; on these parameters, you’ll build your future pattern.
    I have used the following measurements (see the chart): А = 58 cm, В = 81 cm, С = 61 cm.
    To create a pattern, grab a big sheet of paper. Divide the measurement B by 2 and add 2.5 cm for seam allowance. Write down the result on the piece of paper; this will be the width measurement for your main part. Then, add 2.5 cm for seam allowance to the measurement C. This will be the height of the main section.
    Using these measurements, draw a rectangle on a piece of paper. Leave about 25 cm on the top edge of the pattern and 10 cm on each side. Now prepare the pattern for the dog’s neck. Add 10 cm to the measurement A and divide the result by 3. Then, draw a line the length of that measurement and make a mark. Mark the center of the line by measuring and dividing its length by 2. Draw a line of the same length perpendicular to the first one. After that, draw two perpendicular 4 cm lines out from the ends of the second line. Draw straight lines connecting the ends.

    Next, on the top edge of the main pattern section, mark in equal distances on each side, leaving about 8 cm in the center. After that, draw the neck straps that will fasten the cap on the dog.

    In order to do this, draw the slant line at 45 degree angle on the top part of the pattern, then draw a line (at the same angle) from the top corner pointing outside of the main pattern. See the red outline in the photo. Round off the corners on the pattern and the ends of the neck straps.

    In the inner corners, draw the curves about 2.5 cm long and connect them with a bent line, from top to bottom.

    Cut out the pattern. Now you need to cut out the details of the dog cape. Place a pattern onto the fabric and outline it with a pencil. Cut out the detail.

    Make a mark slightly above the center line. Draw first a horizontal, and then a vertical line through the center. These marks will be used for the design placement. Print the design template from the software program. Poke a hole in the center and align the paper template with the center mark on the fabric. Make sure that the design fits well within the pattern. When choosing the design, keep in mind that after the embroidery there should be at least 12 cm (top, right and on left) between the edges of the design and the edges of the fabric.
    Spray a piece of cutaway stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive and place the fabric on top of it in the embroidery area. Hoop it in accordance with the center marks. Embroider your design. On completion, trim the excess stabilizer.

    Dog clothes Assembling of the pieces:
    Prepare the template for chest straps that will fasten the cape on the dog. Divide the measurement B by 2 and add 5 cm for the strap ends overlap. Draw a rectangle on the piece of paper using this measurement for the length, and 8 cm for the width. Round off one of the ends on each corner. Cut out the pattern.

    Cut two chest straps pieces out of the main fabric and another two out of the fleece (your inner lining fabric) by pinning the pattern to the fabric and cutting out the shapes. Align the outer layer pieces with the fleece pieces, right sides together. Sew the details together with a straight stitch at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge. Leave the straight end open for turning.

    Cut small slits in the fabric around the curved edge. Be careful to not cut any of the stitches. Turn the details the right side out and press them with an iron. Finish it with a decorative line of stitches around the sides and curved end.

    Cut a 6 cm length of Velcro. Attach the loop side to the end of one of the straps on the inner lining side. Stitch it near the edge to hold it in place. Lay the embroidered outer layer on top of the fleece, right sides together. Cut out the shape out of the fleece. Measure and mark the center sides of the backside of the outer layer where the straps will be. Insert the chest straps between the outer layer and inner lining fabric, align them with the center marks and pin the details together. Position the straps so that they are parallel with the bottom edge of the coat. Stitch the details around the entire shape. Leave about 5 cm of the bottom edge 

    Turn the coat right side out and turn in the seam allowance where there is an opening. Finish the edge with a decorative stitch. Stitch back and forth over the ends of the straps to reinforce them.
    Cut another 6 cm length of Velcro. Stitch the Velcro pieces to the edges of the neck straps patterns that will fasten the cape around the dog’s neck.

    Now everything is ready for the warm and comfortable walk with your pet.
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