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Hello In this topic published information and picture with embroidery logotypes created as customer digitizing. If you want this logo please send request as Contact us form.- 24 replies
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Pull Compensation - options for different fabrics When the needle penetrates the fabric and the top embroidery thread connects and wraps around the bobbin embroidery thread it locks and creates a pulling in effect. Most fabrics require that Pull Compensation be added in order to compensate for this push and pull effect brought about when you stitch an embroidery design into the fabric. When stitches are applied to fabric some degree of pull or push may occur. The stitches can either pull the fabric in on the sides or push the fabric out on the ends, adding a small amount of extra stitches in the direction of the angle of the fill or column. Stitch length (long stitches as satin generate more problems), stitch type, density, underlay, fabric type and even type and amount of stabilizers (tear-away, cut-away, water.. etc.) used are factors that can account for the amount of pull or push you might experience. A very simple description is that pull compensation makes an adjustment to the width of the satin or fill stitch area that in appearance seems to not be wide enough. Compensation for pulling is used in 99% of machine embroidery designs. In this case, we used a multi-layer complex design from our collection Teddy Bears Machine Embroidery Designs. Best compensation value for Wilcom ES 2 drills, cotton - 0.20 T-shirt - 0.35 fleece, jumper - 0.40 lettering - 0.2-0 In other words, a gap may be forming between an outline stitch and a fill stitch area which may result in poor registration of the embroidery design. Pull compensation broadens the rows of stitches to adjust for this. You will not always see this problem when digitizing the embroidery design and viewing it on your embroidery software screen (example Tajima Pulse Maestro 13), but when embroidering the design, gaps will appear between fill areas or fill areas and outlines. Satin or Fill stitches Tips: All types of stitches create the push-pull effect, but it is most prominent when you are using Satin stitches or fill (tatami or complex fill) stitches. This push-pull effect is more prominent in large areas of your design such as your complex or tatami fill areas. You do not add push or pull compensation to the run stitches that you are using for a border. If your borders do not stay in registration with your fill area, it is best to make adjustments to the fill area of your machine embroidery design. Pull compensation is only added to two edges of the embroidery design, relative to the angle of the fill (complex fill) area. Visualizing a square object, if the angle of the square is set to either 0 or 180 degrees (for any embroidery software probably any value - Punto Softeamweb -45 degrees), the pull compensation will be added to the horizontal edges of the design; if the angle of the stitching is set to either 90 or -90 degrees, the pull compensation will be added to the vertical edges of the design. Evaluation of your design before the final sew-out is an absolute must. There is a tendency with fill stitches to pull and push the fabric in opposite directions, causing the design to appear distorted. Often, compensation can be made when the embroidery design is digitized (on embroidery software), taking into consideration the fact that there will need to be some pull compensation added to design sections, making adjustments by varying the stitch direction, amount of underlay and the stitch density. An example of when you may need to add pull compensation is when a circle containing fill stitches is outlined with a satin stitch or straight stitch. The two areas may not meet, causing a gap between the outline and the fill stitch. If the circle tends to flatten out on one or two sides, an adjustment can be made during the digitizing of the design. What happens in this instance is that the fabric is being pushed in one direction by the actual stitching. By adding pull compensation to the fill stitch of the circle and/or changing the fill direction this can be corrected. If you are not the digitizer, you may be able to make your own adjustments by using editing software such as Embird Editor, adjusting the pull compensation slightly. You may not find the correct amount of pull compensation to add the first time, so it is critical that test sew-outs of the design be made after every change. Certain types of stitches do not allow for pull compensation. A fill or satin stitch has width to it as part of its design, so pull compensation can be added. Outline stitches such as a straight stitch, motif outline stitch or manual stitch outlines are used to define a shape or outline an embroidery design and do not have width to them, so pull compensation cannot be added to this type of stitch. If you did wish to add pull compensation to an outline, changing the outline to a satin stitch would be one way of overcoming this problem. One disadvantage to changing a straight stitch to a satin stitch is that it increases the final stitch count. If a stitch count is a consideration and the increase is too significant, try adding the pull compensation to the fill shape to meet the outline stitch. The actual stitch length of the fill stitch may also be altered along with the pull compensation and only slightly affect the overall stitch count. Pull compensation for text embroidery Tips: Text also needs compensation. Some letters have horizontal columns, while others have vertical columns. When the threads run horizontally, they lie nicely, but the density will push the threads apart and make the letters slightly taller. The pull is sideways and is not very visible to the eye. With vertical columns, however, the density pulls the fabric together and can make a particular letter appear shorter than the others. Good text will not appear even when viewed on a computer screen. Pull compensation will be worked into the text so that the letters will appear the same height when they are sewn onto the garment. Pull compensation will not solve puckering. If you are having puckering problems, one of the following may be the problem: Embroidery design may be too dense for the material on which it is being stitched. Reduce the stitch density of your embroidery design or portions of your embroidery design that are causing you problems. One of the keys to successful embroidery is to keep the density as low as possible and still get the look you want. If you think an area of fill needs more thread, many times you will be better off leaving the top thread stitch density alone and increasing the stitch density of the underlay stitches. As a starting guide, set the density for column (satin) stitches at 3.5 mm to 4.0 mm and fill stitches at 4.0 mm to 5.0 mm, adjusting as necessary after doing a test sew-out. Too many fills at 45 or 90. Change the fill to a direction other than 45 o or 90 o, even by only 5 or less and the machine embroidery design won't pucker so much. Hooping and stabilizer The fabric may not be hooped properly and is moving during stitching. Whenever possible, always use the smallest hoop possible for the embroidery design that you are stitching. A small embroidery design in an overly large hoop leaves more room for fabric movement. When hooped, your material should be tight but not overly stretched you should be able to run your little finger (with very slight pressure) in a circle over the hooped material and not push any material. If you are using the sticky paper method of hooping, be sure there are basting stitches around the outer perimeter of the design for embroidery. The stabilizer may be providing insufficient support for the embroidered design. Whenever possible, a good quality cut-away stabilizer should be used. Cut-away stabilizers not only provide the best support during stitching but also continue to support the embroidery design throughout the life of the garment. Using a cut-away stabilizer such as a light polymesh stabilizer gives you the strength of a cut-away (1 or 2) and the ability to layer (layers) the stabilizer by adding more layers if necessary. Improper thread tension. Check the tension of both the upper thread and the bobbin thread. An ideal tension is that the reverse of your stitching will show 1/3 top stitch on each of the outer edges and 1/3 bobbin stitch in the center. -
View File EmbroideryWare Trial The free trail version of EmbroideryWare lets you use all the features of the program for 30 days. After 30 days DST output is disabled. After your trial period is over you can continue to create embroidery designs and save them. Then when you do purchase you will already have something to stitch out. EmbroideryWare runs on Windows 7, 8, and 10. Windows XP is not supported. This version has the following features Free Updates for one year Running stitches Single Double Triple/Bean Quad Fills Custom fill patterns Definable fill direction and order Combine or subtract graphic objects to create complicated fill areas Gradient fills Automatic fill ordering Satin stitches Fixed width Tapered Variable along its length Linear and curved columns Satin feathering Satin patterning using fill patterns Satin edge shapes Free motion embroidery Fixed stitch length By time straight stitch By time Zig zag Advanced editing Scale, rotate, translate, align curves or points. Offset curves Add or delete curve elements Join or break apart curves Precise dimension based nudging Arrow key nudge Embedded objects within the graphic Underlay Start path End path Embroidery objects Embed an entire embroidery design in a graphic object Link the object to a file on your system and any objects referring to this link will update automatically Resize, rotate, and move the object and all the design elements in the embedded design will update automatically Import SVG PES PNG, BMP, and JPEG bitmaps to use for digitizing Export DST SVG (future release) Decorative stitches Chain stitch Hand stitch User created, can follow any path Text Convert true type fonts to running stitches, fills and satin outlines Digitized keyboard lettering which can be scaled and follow any path Patterning Linear Circular Cut work 2 needle 4 needle Hoop sizes 360×350, 360×200, 260×200, 260×150, 120×120 mm 5×7, 4×4, 2×2 inches Custom Definable jump anchors Thumbnail view of embroidery objects Stitch simulator with 3D rendering mode Drawing aides Rulers Stitch length marker mm, cm, inch units Grid snaps Usability features Keyboard short cuts Status bar step by step instructions Submitter jimmysb Submitted 01/31/2017 Category Embroidery software -
Hello to everyone ! I first wanted to say sorry about my language, It's not really good ! I have a little problem with my sewings and i don't really know how to fix it, I'm watching videos for how that embroidery digitizing software works, but i can't find how to fix this problem. The problem is that this software it's not that used or i just don't see a lot of people working on it, that's why i wanted to search an answer here like a question . So the problem is the right filling an object. When i want to fill an object there are a lot of problems like missing stiches or lines that are with more stitches. Im using Artistic Digitizer and the embroidery machine is Elna eXpressive 970. I'm pretty sure that the problem is from the file.
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BORING TOOL NOTE: This chapter will be covering some advanced options for Tajima Maestro embroidery software users, however to the full benefit of this chapter you will the Boring tool, cording tool, for your machine. This tool can be used for decorative stitching, by placing holes in the garment and embroidering around them. You will need to check with your Distributor if your machine supports the hardware and get the option in your software, standard on Tajima Maestro optional on Illustrator Extreme. INTRODUCTION Depending on your line of work and digitizing path you may or may not need to learn this tool. Its designed for the decorative digitizer that either does fashion, home furnishing production pieces etc. If you find yourself doing corporate logos you will not need this option. However a lot of home embroiders, craft embroiders and fashion embroiders could use this feature to add some styles to their embroidery designs. BORING TOOLS The boring tool style presents a beautiful eyelet characteristics, boring lends itself to the home furnishing and fashion apparel decorating markets, specialty areas like ladies fashions you can incorporate this style of stitches for those designs. Its critical when using the boring tool to make sure your garment or raw material is tight in the hoop as the tool will tend to stretch the fabric or put pressure on the fabric. Magnetic clamps work great for this application. Tips on ideas for boring the general rule for boring decorative holes are small is better than large. The larger holes can distort the fabric and cause some alignment issues. generally 5 to 7 mm holes are a good size. Note when digitizing for the boring holes the needle sits 12mm in front of the knife blade for the holes so the design will need to be offset by 12 mm to line up the design. You also need at least 2mm spacing between holes. This tool takes quite a bit of practice to line up the design with the holes. See Artwork Design below. DGML by Pulse Option In your DGML by Pulse software you will have 3 boring tool options Triangle , Oval and a square. When working with these tools you will to make sure your density is between 70-90 spi to get the desired shape of the design,.saving stitches here will likely cause distortions. NOTE: the reason you need a lot of embroidery stitches for this application is the stitches pull back the fabric and hold it in place, the knife or boring tool doesn't remove the fabric but pierces it, the satin stitches pull the fabric back and tuck it in, thus the reason the stitch density must be strong enough to hide and cover the fabric edges. BORING TIPS - If sewing several holes together, sew manual underlay all at once for all the sections. If sewing other heavier designs elements near the bore hole, sew the boring holes first, this way the holes will not be covered by the other components. if doing an eclipse or oblong holes, sew the satin stitch at an angle to the holes edge rather than perpendicular to it, this will grab any extra threads and pull them in. Always use underlay so the fabric and its backing material won't shift and the cause the hole to close up. EXAMPLES The boring tool is a great attraction for those who also do sequins as you can get a lot of diversity using both these tools. Sequins are covered later in this chapter. CORDING TOOLS Most of you think of unique embroidery processes as being applique, puffy foam and tackle twill. Those are actually categorized as applications rather than processes. Processes typically involve a special attachment that enables a machine to produce a different type of embellishment. Unfortunately, very few shops make use of, or even know about, such options. One of those unique processes that has been around for quite a number of years is cording. This process is simply the attachment, through the stitching process, of a small cord or rope to the item being sewn. The selected cording material is stored on a spool and fed down to one of the machine needles which has been modified slightly. The needle doesn’t sew with the cord, but rather, uses thread to stitch the cord to the garment. Contact your dealer for options. Cording is a relatively simple process and easy to digitize for. Basically, you will just create running stitches in the areas where cording is to be applied, to sew the cord into place. However, keep in mind that the automatic trimmers do not trim the cord, only the thread being used to attach the cord. CORDING TOOLS So, the cording portions of a design must be continuous without jumps or trims, as the machine operator will have to stop and manually trim the cord with scissors. In addition, tight circles and curves should be avoided. Some designs can use heavy thread or even wire. In your software you can switch between standard embroidery to the Lock Stitch Chenille depending on your equipment and setup. For mixed mode machines its very simple just selecting a needle color for the machine. Cording Tool You can use the cording tool as a run stitch via the left design or program it with a zig zag stitch on the right side. On the machine side you can control the swing pattern , consult the manual of your embroidery machine. Cording Tool Examples of pattern 1 Tip: You have to make sure that the stitches are not to sharp, the minimum stitch is 1.5 mm and the maximum stitch should only be 5 mm. Each of the techniques can open up new markets, research them when buying new equipment.
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Hi there, I am trying out a embroidery digitizing programs called SEW ART and I was wondering if anyone else is using that software? Does anyone else know who to layer colors but not overlap the whole embroidery design and do lighter stitching? thanks
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When machine embroidery digitizing or just doing text it very important that you understand trims and locks many times they go hand in hand as often if your applying a trim to a design, you should be applying a lock stitch. Depending on the type of garment the use and your personal preference you can choose to put locks around trim stitches. Definition Trims A trims is when the machine cuts the thread before moving to another part of the design, this also can be done manually on older embroidery machines,. Locks A lock or lock stitch is a tie off after a trim, this locks the stitches down so they are less likely to unravel. Trims When you start to embroider or digitize you may not have any personal preferences when it comes to trimming or applying lock stitches. Trims often appear like little scissor like icons when you have your commands turned on. Locks Most times you will use locks around trims as it can help prevent the stitches unraveling when the material gets pulled on. There are several types of rules for locks, and several different types of lock stitches. There are several rules that you can choose to apply I like to use Basic lock stitches for most of my designs. I like to use locks on all stitch types although especially when trimming. I only like to trim when its necessary or when I cannot avoid it. Depending on the applications and or material it vital for locks to be applied to trims, specially on performance wear, dance wear, field where or construction field any application where the garment is exposed to rubbing, abrasive conditions. Applying Trims and Locks When your punching a machine embroidery design , you can either setup recipes, for your personal preferences or you can add them as you punch. As often you will need to do as you punch a design as you can control where and how to apply the rules. Give example on a design I do not like trimming, however on text unless their touching I always trim. However I always use locks no matter the stitch especially when working with text, except for script lettering I will not trim in them but I will add lock stitches. When you have a segment in version 14 you can either add trims and locks at the top of the screen. Advanced Options In version 14 there is also a feature to place the lock stitch on the inside of the letter it past version the locks sometimes would stick out from side of the letter, to use this feature in the latest build of version 14 in the properties section where your trims are, see below; This section is new if you check it it will place the trim starting inside the letter. This is a great feature for lettering.
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When digitizing or adding a new thread type to your system, you can also input the desired thickness of that thread. This helps when trying to determin the coverage of a fill on a large area. A bit of back ground the industry standard thread weight for most industrial shops is 40wt this has the best coverage on standard logos and works with a widest variety of applications. However there are specialty areas that can get better results when working with other areas. Small Diameter 60wt Threads. When working with small diameter threads you can use smaller needles like a 65/9 needle this allows for more detail and less bulk, applications that this excells at is small lettering under 4mm or .25 of inch. The thread thickness is half the size of the standard thread and the needle is considerably smaller allowing for more needle penetration in a very small area, 60wt threads are also commonly used in the craft and home embroidery segments, there is a wide range of colors available in this wt and often you get get 5000m spools as well. In the example below you can see that we made very small text , using standard Pulse Microsystems Fonts. These fonts are specially designed for small lettering and have the underlay and compensation built in, Large Diameter 20 pr 30wt Threads When working with large fills where you want to cover a wide are on a jacket or what to keep the density to a minimum then you may want to consider using a large needle and larger size thread. There are quite a few applications where you can substiture a larger thread but working on jackets like leather that rip when putting too many needle penetrations in the design using a larger needle and larger thread reduces the amount of needle penetration but allows for great coverage. It also reduces the puckering of the fabric. In the example below you will see a design that is made by Campus Crew a Canadian Company that excels in using large threads. They use it to cover large areas with stitches and they also use it for effect on applique designs as well. Changing thread thickness When you need to change thread on your embroidery machine you should also change the thickness in your digitizing software so the appearance of the designs is correct, this will give you a visual que on how dense or how much detail to add. Its often over looked in the software when digitizing for these types of applications. To change (1) color on demand without effecting the color chart follow steps below. 1. Right Click on the color 2. Goto Properties 3. Change the highlighted value 1. 20wt thread very large thread 2. 30wt thread 3. 40wt thread default 4. 50wt thread 5. 60wt thread very small thread This method changes the thread in the design only.. Its a great option for on demand digitzing for clients or designs when you normally do not work with the type of embroidery thread.
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In digitizing designs its important to understand the machine embroidery design characteristics, this helps if you have taken some time of art courses as it can prepare you to look at the design different. It also depends on the size, and quality of artwork you have to work with. In this blog we are going to look at the three "D" of digitizing, Depth Density and Dynamics. Whether a design comes from a line drawing, clipart or a photograph, you need to understand how to get the software to be able to recreate the density, depth and dynamics of the design. This is not an easy task as you really need to know some settings in your software. Lets take a look at a design and how it was made. Original image and design information This deer embroidery design has depth with the trees fence and grass all in the back ground. it has various densities to create the illusion of blends, and the dynamic of texturs. We will take you through each layer of the design and show you how they made this design. Stitch count 41192 Design trims 44 Color changes 14 colors height 5.99 in design width 4.60 in Note: 14 of the 44 trims are from a color change, so technically there are only 30 trims in the whole design.. So you need to break it down and separate sections to get the design proportions correct. Layer 1 background Background of the embroidery design Because this is a background layer the density of the design is a bit less than it would be if it was on top of another color. ( 36.3 spi using a random fill pattern. Notice that the selections are all connected so there are no trims in this section this speeds up the sewout and reduces the amount of simulated thread breaks. Layer 2 high light of trees Note: The fence post sits over will make the design over top of this, this detail stand out and be correct to the image. The detail or dynamic of this layer is to add some detail to the trees, this needs to be behind the deer. To ge the blending effect you should use a fill, Random pattern density of 30 to 38 spi and it should all be connected by run stitches. Layer 3 detail of trees This layer will give you a dynamic look and feel to the background as it will have some texture to it, it also covers up and blends the background of the first layer. Layer 4 and 5 grass and fence This layer goes slightly over top of parts of the back ground but slightly behind the deer. To ge the blend effect you need to layer a few density of the complex fill is between 35-44 spi using a random pattern. Layer 5 detail of grass and poles. This layer is composed of satin and run stitches to simulate the detail, the shade is slightly different than the grass aboe. Layer 6 chest background The fence wires need to go over the grass so they do not disappear in the stitches. This is the background layer of the deer body its a std complex fill density of 63.5 with a random fill pattern. Layer 7 and 8 depth and dynamic of the chest. Layer 7 This layer is made up of light fills, and a run stitches playing with the density and random pattern. no trims in the design. Embroidery design layer 7 light fill Layer 8 This layer has a complex fill at 50 spi and in the middle a run stitch to add detail to the previous fill. Layer 9 and 10 chest highlights and antlers Layer 9 This layer adds some contrast and depth to fills giving it some blending effect. The antlers sit on top of the back ground making them stand out, they are made using a satin stitch with a density of 52 spi. Not to scale. The fill is made using the random pattern, with a density of 50 spi no its all connected by travelling stitches. Layer 11 high light of antlers. The white layer is made up of satin and run stitches the satin density layers the grey shown last image, creating detail , density is 31 spi. Layer 12 detail of antlers. This layer is made up of runs and satin stitches and some stitches and the density varies and stitch type also e-stitch was used as a pattern to create an effect. Layer 13 high lights in deer head This last layer ads the final detail of the eyes and nose and hears to high light portiosn. Comparison from the original image to the sew out of the design. The image on the left is the original image supplied and on the right the sew out.
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I am new here, and new to machine embroidery. I was just given a pfaff embroidery machine. I am interested in getting software to digitize my own designs but I am not sure which one to get. I have software that can resize designs, but it won't let me import my own designs to digitize them. Can anyone give me some recommendations. I really don't want to spend thousands. Thanks!
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I am just a novice, so sorry for this stupid question.. Is there any way to convert DST file into EMB format? without loosing any object properties and stitch information
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Ricoma Chroma Digitizing Software Does anybody have any experience with this embroidery editing software? If so how do you like it? Pros and Cons?
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Hi community, I’m a complete novice but I would like to stitch some designs onto vest tops, T-shirt and jumpers and sell them for charity. I’ve attached the style of design that I would like to create. I’d like these designs will be ~5-10cm in length & 2-5 cm in width. Could you please recommend a machine for a total beginner? (Ideally a machine that allows you to upload you own designs and one where you don’t need to change the threads if the design were to consist of two or 2 colours). Thanks a lot in advance!
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Im using Pulse 14. How do I create multi layer embroidery for stock fonts. I have two examples attached. The #71 is incorrect and the #90 is correct. I want the #71 to look like the #90 .dst file wise. How do I do that? Please help, thank you.
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Hello guys. My name is MJ and I am completely new to the embroidery / digitizing scene. I am 24 years old having recently graduated school. Unfortunately I decided to go down a different career path. I want to learn to digitize but am overwhelmed by the helplessness of where to begin. I have NEVER worked with embroidery or embroidery machines before. I am one who takes heavy interest in design and I do have appreciation for embroidery. I just do not know where to begin. Communities from Reddit told me to find work at an embroidery shop and learn some basic knowledge about embroidery and only then should I start to learn the digitizing software. Do you guys agree? I am already looking for work at embroidery shops but it is hard because I do not have any experience and many do not have time to train. What would you guys do if you were in my shoes? COMPLETELY NEW to embroidery/digitizing and wanting to learn... Thank you so much.
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Hello people. I hope you're taking care of yourselves. Can anyone DSG editable files? (Software Stitch ERA by Sierra 17.20) ?? Thanks in advance
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Did sombody find out how to digitize for this material? I'm having troubles with a filled circle. The digitizing company we are using has no idea about digitizing for this material, so I had to do edits to the design, changing the understitches and the fills, but still can't get it right. Any tip about digitizing this (we've got lot's of tips about hooping) would be really appreciated! Attached is my embroidery file for this design. Thank you so much!!! Carolina Sosa Embroidery Manager Righteous Clothing Agency. Portland, OR 1799a.EMB- 2 replies
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Is there anyway to make the Detroit Pistons logo bigger?
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Hi there! We are looking for a company logo in digitized format, probably in PES file. Can anyone help me to guide for right company for it.
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I like publish new Charlotte Hornets Logo this the best but they did a really good modernizing it. My opinion the script would've looked a better with a white stroke, but I'm just glad the Hornets renovation art their nest in Charlotte and revived the classic teal and purple. All these designs near time be digitized as machine embroidery designs. Please look this in Logotypes embroidery collection
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Can you get me a design of the UNC Ram or something else ram logo...Also what about Blue devils? Both of these will go on the left side of chest
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I have an request for the digitizer, this need for my hasband. The logo picture that I have attached is be nice for uniform embroidery. Size and and not bigger 130 x 180 mm. Format Brother.
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hi every one...first of all, sorry for my bad english...i'am new in the field of embroidery and digitizing...and i don't have any knowledge nor experience in how to make good designs. i work with wilcom E2. so my problem is... what's the name of this technique ( will put a video later) ? and how can i do the same work ? does autodigitizers do this thecnique ?! thanks for helping.
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Could you please create the attached celestial design for me in PES. I only need the tiger outline in satin stitch with the eyes filled in. Please let me know how much it will cost and I’ll send payment. Thank you
