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    Is 135,000 Stitches a Lot on a Used Embroidery Machine?

    By diver361, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 0 comments, 63 views
    Buying a Used Embroidery Machine with 135,000 Stitches: Is It a Good Deal?
    If you're considering buying a used embroidery machine with around 135,000 stitches, you might be wondering—is that a lot?
    Spoiler alert: 135,000 stitches is practically nothing. What Does 135,000 Stitches Really Mean?
    One medium design can have 60,000–100,000 stitches. Some commercial designs hit 200,000+ in one run. Many users easily pass 1 million stitches in their first year. Commercial machines can run 300 million+ stitches and still operate smoothly.
    What Actually Matters When Buying Used
    Maintenance History: Was it regularly oiled and serviced? Stitch Quality: Always test run a design before buying. Brand: Trusted names like Brother, Janome, Barudan, Tajima are reliable. Accessories: Check for hoops, software, and USB or floppy support. Community Insight
    "My brand new Barudan came with 220k stitches just from factory testing."
    "I've done over 14 million stitches in a year—135k is a warm-up!" Bottom Line
    With just 135,000 stitches, your machine is nearly new. It’s a great deal, especially if it’s in working condition and from a trusted brand. So go ahead, power it up and start stitching!
    © 2025 Embroideres.com – All Rights Reserved

    Satin Stitch Underlay Comparison – Do They Really Matter?

    By diver361, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 0 comments, 74 views
    Can You Really Tell the Difference Between Satin Stitch Underlays?

     The Setup
    The fabric: Fruit of the Loom Original Polo Shirt, 100% cotton pique, 185gsm
    Stabilizer: Two sheets of Madeira Web 50g tear-away
    Thread: Madeira Polyneon 40wt white thread
    Satin stitch columns: 1mm to 10mm wide, all 30mm tall
    Density: 0.4mm
    Tension and stabilizer: Same for all
    Only variable: Underlay type
    1st Row: Center Run 2nd Row: Zig Zag 3rd Row: Double Zig Zag 4th Row: Double Zig Zag + Edge Run What We Observed
    Center Run: Clean but less support on wider areas (7mm+).
    Zig Zag: Better fill texture, slightly fuller stitches.
    Double Zig Zag: Even more bulk and coverage, better hold.
    Double Zig Zag + Edge Run: Best shape retention and border sharpness.
    What Embroiderers Say
    "I feel the difference more than I see it." "On thinner fabric, the weaker underlays fall apart." "Try this with a 100% cotton t-shirt and you'll see the gaps." "Edge run + zig zag = must-have for big curved letters." Final Takeaways
    Underlays may be invisible once stitched over, but their effects are far from hidden. For small, stable designs on thick fabric, center run may suffice. But for curves, large shapes, or soft materials, zig zag and edge runs deliver the results.
    For best insight, try this:
    Stitch the same design with different underlays on different fabrics Use the same stabilizer, thread, and tension Label your rows and test after washing Pro Tip
    Always view your satin stitches at a 45° angle under good lighting — that’s when differences in coverage and tension become most visible.

    Cat on Embroidery Machine? Cute, but Risky – Real Stories & Melco Tips

    By diver361, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 0 comments, 106 views
    “You’re Not Using This, Are You?” — Cats, Embroidery Machines & Maintenance Tips
    When your embroidery machine becomes a luxury cat bed. Meet the real boss of the sewing room—proof that even the Melco Bravo bows to feline royalty.
    There’s nothing quite like sitting down at your embroidery machine and finding a regal furball claiming your workspace like they own it. If you've ever caught your cat lounging atop your Melco Bravo like it's a spa bed, you're not alone. Cue the iconic line: “You’re not using this, are you?”
    This hilarious and heartwarming moment was captured by one user who shared a photo of their majestic feline commandeering their machine like royalty. But it sparked more than just a laugh—it opened up a real conversation about pet safety and machine maintenance.
    When Cats and Embroidery Collide
    One member shared a sobering experience: her cat jumped onto the machine while it was stopped for a thread trim—and startled her so badly that she ended up with an ER visit and two stitches. A reminder that as adorable as these fluffy assistants are, embroidery machines are no place for paws.
    Pro Tip: Always make sure your machine is turned off or the head is moved away from working zones if your pet has access to the room. Those curious little explorers can pop up out of nowhere.

    Keeping Your Melco Running Smoothly
    The thread quickly turned into a helpful exchange of tips about Melco Bravo maintenance—especially regarding the needle carriage rail. While older models may not have had this in the manual, newer guidance recommends applying HP grease to both sides of the plastic rails (the black track running side to side), not the metal parts (those still take regular machine oil).
    Maintenance Checklist:
    Quarterly: Take-Up Lever Cam, Presser Foot Cam Follower, Right Needle Bar Guide Use light red HP grease — not oil — on plastic rail channels Search YouTube for: Melco Daily / Weekly / Monthly Maintenance The Most Cat Thing Ever
    The best part? The cat chose to lay exactly where a finished piece was placed to prevent her from lying there. Naturally, that meant another round with the lint roller—for the third time.
    Want to Join the Club?
    This beloved Melco Bravo was scored second-hand on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace—proof that high-quality equipment is accessible if you're patient and persistent.
    And as one commenter put it: “Nice machine… but wow, that’s a really realistic cat you embroidered!”
     
    Final Thoughts
    Embroidery is a blend of creativity, technical skill, and—if you’re lucky—a touch of chaos courtesy of your pets. Whether it’s a stitch gone wrong or a cat claiming your machine like a throne, the embroidery community always finds humor and wisdom in every thread.
    Stay stitched, stay safe, and keep those cats off the hoop.

    Reduce Thread Breaks and Improve Trimmer Performance with Simple Maintenance

    By diver361, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 0 comments, 280 views
    Want Fewer Thread Breaks and a Smoother Thread Trimmer? It’s Easier Than You Think!
    Every embroidery machine operator should follow a regular maintenance schedule—both daily and weekly. And when it comes to performance, this is not just a recommendation—it's a necessity.

    The Hook Assembly Needs Daily Attention
    The hook assembly is one of the most critical parts of your embroidery machine. It plays a direct role in stitch quality and overall machine operation. Keeping it clean and properly oiled can help you avoid many common embroidery issues.
    What Happens Without Maintenance?
    Dust, stray threads, stabilizer residue, and fabric lint accumulate quickly in the hook area. This buildup:
    Reduces stitch accuracy
    Causes frequent thread breaks
    Absorbs oil, reducing lubrication
    Increases resistance and wear on moving parts
    This not only affects your embroidery results—it can shorten the machine’s life.
    Insufficient Oil = Expensive Repairs
    Without proper oiling, parts wear out faster. This can lead to breakdowns, costly repairs, and downtime. Oiling ensures smooth motion, reduces friction, and helps prevent overheating.

    What About the Thread Trimmer?
    Inconsistent trimming is often caused by dust and thread bits lodged in the hook assembly. When debris blocks the trimmer’s blades, they can’t cut the thread cleanly—leading to missed trims or thread nests in your work.
    Quick Takeaway: Clean and Oil = Reliable Embroidery
    Daily cleaning and oiling of the hook area ensure:
    Fewer thread breaks
    Smoother trimming
    Higher stitch quality
    Longer machine life
    Fewer surprises during production
    Just a few minutes of maintenance can save you hours of frustration. Treat your machine well—it’ll return the favor with flawless stitching.

    Embroidery on Tulle and Organza: Tips for Delicate Fabrics

    By diver361, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 1 comment, 157 views
    Embroidery on Tulle and Organza: Techniques for Sheer Success
    Machine embroidery on delicate fabrics like tulle and organza may look intimidating, but with the right approach and machine setup, the results can be stunning. These lightweight, transparent materials are often used in bridal wear, evening gowns, accessories, and home décor — and embroidery can elevate them beautifully.
    Can You Embroider on Tulle or Organza?
    Yes! Even sheer mesh fabrics like euro-mesh, netting, or tulle can be embroidered successfully. Despite their fragile appearance, these fabrics can hold embroidery stitches when treated correctly.

    How to Digitize a Design for Tulle or Organza
    Creating embroidery files for tulle requires special attention:
    Avoid tiny stitches
    The minimum stitch length must be longer than the holes in the mesh. For example, if your tulle has a 1mm grid, don’t use stitches smaller than 1mm — they won’t hold.
    Use light stitch density
    Dense fills can tear or warp sheer fabric. Choose airy, minimalistic designs like redwork, sketch-style, or straight stitch outlines.
    Limit trims and color changes
    Each trim increases the chance of shifting or pulling. Ideally, your design should flow from start to finish without stops or thread cuts.
    Watch your stitch length
    Don’t use stitches that are too long either — they can create loops or distortion.
    How to Embroider on Tulle or Organza
    Once your design is ready and transferred to your embroidery machine, follow these preparation steps:
    When to Use Stabilizer
    Small and light designs:
    You can embroider directly on tulle without any stabilizer.
    Large or dense designs:
    Use a water-soluble stabilizer or film underneath. It provides support during stitching and disappears afterward, leaving your sheer fabric intact.
    Proper Hooping Technique
    Avoid pulling the tulle too tight — over-tensioning distorts the weave.
    If needed, secure the fabric edge inside the hoop with clips, double-sided tape, or fabric adhesive.
    Press the hoop gently but firmly — tulle is slippery and may need reinforcement around the edges.
    Pro Tips for Success
    Always test your design on a fabric scrap first.
    Choose sharp embroidery needles (size 70 or 75).
    Use fine polyester or rayon thread for best results on sheer fabric.

    Embroidery on Leather: Tips, Tools & Best Machines

    By diver361, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 0 comments, 91 views
    Embroidery on Leather: Techniques, Tips & Machine Advice
    Embroidering on leather or faux leather can add a luxurious and personal touch to clothing, bags, upholstery, car accessories, and more. But leather is unlike any other embroidery surface — it stretches, doesn’t heal from needle punctures, and demands a special approach. Here’s everything you need to know for beautiful, lasting results.
    Key Considerations When Embroidering on Leather
    1. Always Stabilize Your Material
    Leather is flexible, which means you must stabilize it. Use fusible interfacing or a high-quality cutaway stabilizer. This prevents puckering and distortion during stitching. Faux leather typically comes pre-backed, but verify before starting.
    2. Hoop With Care
    Traditional hoops can leave marks on leather. A border frame is ideal: hoop the stabilizer alone, then float the leather on top. Secure it with temporary fabric spray or double-sided tape. Be mindful of the hoop's depth — leather plus interfacing is thick!
    3. Digitize With Leather in Mind
    Leather embroidery requires lower stitch density to avoid tears. Avoid overly dense fills, short stitches, and excessive trims. Light, airy designs — like line art or sketch-style — tend to work best.
    4. Embroider on a Flat Surface
    Don’t let your hoop hang! Heavy leather or thick materials can sag if unsupported. Always embroider on a flat table to maintain accuracy.

    What Thread and Needles Work Best?
    Thread: Use high-strength polyester thread — it’s more durable and flexible than rayon, perfect for tough surfaces.
    Needles: A size 80 embroidery needle is typically recommended for leather.
    Metallic Thread: If you're using metallics, reduce tension and follow all standard leather guidelines.
    Which Machine Handles Leather Best?
    When it comes to leather embroidery, you need a machine that’s built for strength and stability. All Ricoma embroidery machines are optimized for heavy materials and offer professional results on both real and faux leather.

    Machine Embroidery on Sweaters and Knitted Fabrics: What You Need to Know

    By diver361, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 0 comments, 173 views
    Machine embroidery on sweaters and knitted garments opens up beautiful possibilities — cozy monograms, delicate florals, or whimsical designs. But due to the stretchy and looped nature of knit fabrics, special care is needed to avoid distortion or sinking stitches. Here’s a complete guide to getting professional, long-lasting results.
    Understanding the Nature of Knit Fabrics
    Knits are stretchy, soft, and textured. While this makes them incredibly comfortable to wear, it also poses challenges for embroidery:
    They stretch easily, especially side-to-side.
    They can snag or distort if hooped too tightly.
    Stitches may sink into the fabric without proper support.
    That’s why preparation is key.
    Choosing the Right Embroidery Design
    When working with knits and sweaters, design choice matters more than ever.
    Best Design Types:
    Low-density designs (less filled areas)
    Sketch-style or outline designs
    Watercolor or hand-drawn effects
    Avoid:
    Dense, heavy fill designs that may pucker or distort
    Small text or overly detailed logos (especially on looser knits)
    Stabilization Is Everything
    Stabilizers are your best friends when embroidering on stretchy materials. For knits, you’ll usually need a combination of top and bottom stabilizers.
     
     Recommended Setup:
    Bottom stabilizer: Medium-weight cut-away or tear-away (cut-away is better for stretch)
    Top stabilizer: Water-soluble film (WSS) or heat-away film to prevent stitches from sinking into the loops
    Hooping & Fabric Preparation
    Knits should never be hooped tightly like woven fabric. That could stretch them out and cause distortion once removed.
    Use temporary adhesive spray to attach fabric to stabilizer before hooping
    Consider floating the fabric (hoop just the stabilizer and stick the fabric on top)
    Use magnetic hoops when possible — they’re gentle on knits
    Don’t:
    Overstretch the fabric in the hoop
    Embroider without a top stabilizer on sweater textures
    Needles and Thread
    Using the right needle prevents damage to the fabric’s loops.
    Needle: Ballpoint (jersey) needles – they glide through without piercing the loops
    Thread: Polyester or rayon embroidery threads – strong yet soft enough for knits
    Finishing Touches
    After the embroidery is done:
    Remove the top stabilizer with warm water or heat (depending on type)
    Carefully trim the excess cut-away stabilizer from the back
    Steam or press lightly with a cloth on top (don’t iron directly!)
    Which Knits Are Best for Embroidery?
    Knit Type Embroidery Friendly Notes Cotton Jersey Yes Stable and easy to hoop French Terry Yes Use top film for loops Chunky Sweater Knit With care Needs extra stabilizer, avoid dense designs Acrylic Knit Yes Watch heat when pressing Wool Blend Knit Be gentle Can felt with heat or dense stitching Final Thoughts
    Embroidering on sweaters and knits is incredibly rewarding — just imagine cozy holiday sweaters, personalized gifts, or fashionable statement pieces. With a few adjustments in your materials and technique, your embroidery can look flawless and last a long time.

    When Barudan Skips a Beat: Solving Bobbin Catch Issues on Multi-Needle Machines

    By diver361, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 0 comments, 132 views
    Barudan Not Catching Bobbin on Three Out of 15 Needles? Here's What to Check
    Running a 15-needle Barudan can feel like piloting a spaceship—when it works, it’s magical. But when three out of those 15 needles suddenly refuse to catch the bobbin thread? It becomes a test of patience, tension, and sanity.
    A user recently shared their experience, and if you’ve found yourself in a similar bind (literally), you’re not alone.
    The Problem
    Sound familiar? The photo (attached above) shows thread buildup right under the bobbin case — a classic symptom of a few potential culprits.

    Step-by-Step Diagnostic Checklist
    1. Threading Direction – Double and Triple Check
    It might seem basic, but threading incorrectly is the most common cause. On Barudan, the thread must follow a specific path — one user mentioned they looped thread from the back instead of the front and nearly replaced their rotary hook!
    2. Clean the Bobbin Area Thoroughly
    Thread debris, lint, or even stray thread tails can prevent a clean pickup of the bobbin thread. Remove the bobbin case and give it a solid clean — especially around the rotary hook.
    3. Check Needle Bar Height (Needle Penetration Depth)
    Since it’s only some needles, chances are good the needle bar height is slightly off on those specific heads. If the needle isn’t going deep enough into the bobbin hook’s path, it simply won’t catch the thread.
    On some Barudan models, adjusting the needle bar means opening the machine and adjusting the stacker bar (often located behind the front plate). Only attempt this if you're confident or have the manual on hand.
    4. Needle Type and Damage
    Double-check that you're using the correct needle type for your Barudan and that they’re not damaged or slightly bent. Even a slight curve can throw off the hook timing.
    5. Rotary Hook Timing
    While rare, if everything else checks out and the issue persists, it may be a hook timing issue. However, since it’s only 3 out of 15 needles, this is unlikely to be the root cause unless the rotary system is misaligned in specific zones.
    Pro Tip: Adjust One Needle First
    If you're considering adjusting the needle bar height, try it on just one faulty needle head first. That way, you can see if it resolves the issue before making adjustments across all three.
    As one tech-savvy embroiderer put it:
    Helpful Tools & Manuals
    Your Barudan service manual (usually available in PDF format)
    Flathead screwdrivers, Allen keys, and a flashlight
    Phone camera (to document positions before you change anything)
    What This Looks Like
    Photo: Thread bunching under the bobbin case
    In the attached image, you can clearly see where the thread is building up and failing to loop. This is what an un-caught bobbin thread looks like—messy, loose, and a nightmare for clean stitches.
    Final Thoughts
    Embroidery machines can be fussy, especially high-speed, multi-head units like Barudan. When bobbin catch issues strike on just a few needles, it's almost always mechanical—needle height, threading, or cleanliness.
    Have you ever had this issue? How did you fix it? Let us know in the comments or share your photo story!

    Which Embroidery Machine Should I Buy as a Beginner?

    By diver361, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 0 comments, 123 views
    Embroidery Dreams on a Budget: What Machine Should I Choose?
    So you're ready to dive into the creative world of machine embroidery — customizing hoodies, adding flair to jeans, personalizing snapbacks, or even stitching unique designs onto your pup's harness. But the question is: which embroidery machine should you start with?
    You’re not alone in this journey — many beginners are asking the same question, especially when working with a budget around €1000. Let’s walk through some honest advice and user experience shared by hobbyists just like you.
    What Do You Want to Embroider?
    First, think about your goals:
    Hoodies & Jeans: These need a machine that can handle thick fabrics and large designs.
    Snapbacks: These are more challenging due to their structure — single-needle machines might struggle here.
    Dog Harness/Collars: A small hoop or free-arm functionality helps for tight or narrow areas.
    Custom Designs: You'll want a machine that allows importing your own digital embroidery files (usually .PES, .DST, .EXP formats).
    Real Advice: Hoop Size Matters
    This is a golden rule. A larger hoop means you can create bigger and more versatile designs without splitting them into multiple files. For beginners, it’s frustrating to constantly re-hoop.
    Minimum recommended hoop size: 5x7 inches
    Ideal hoop size for versatility: 6x10 or 7x11 inches
    One User’s Experience: Poolin EC05 vs. EC06
    Poolin embroidery machines are gaining popularity for their affordability and performance. The EC05 is a great budget option but has a narrower hoop width which might feel limiting for hoodies or back pieces. The EC06, slightly above your budget at €1,400 regular price, offers more workspace and flexibility.
    Tip: Check for direct sales on Poolin’s official site — they often include tax and sometimes even free shipping.
    Snapback Warning: Single-Needle Limitations
    Snapbacks and structured hats are notoriously tricky for single-needle machines. Multi-needle embroidery machines handle these much better thanks to their tubular arms and cap frames.
    However, if you're sticking to a budget, you can still do snapbacks with some creative workarounds — just prepare for a learning curve.

    What to Look for in a Beginner Machine:
    Hoop size: As large as your budget allows
    USB or Wi-Fi import: So you can use your own designs
    Sturdy frame: For thick fabrics like denim or canvas
    Reliable support and community: Look for brands with active forums, tutorials, and troubleshooting help
    Software compatibility: Make sure it works with digitizing programs like PE-Design, Embrilliance, Ink/Stitch, etc.
    Good Beginner Machine Options (Within or Near €1000)
    Machine Max Hoop Size Price Range Notes Brother SE1900 5”x7” ~€900-1000 Great entry-level combo sewing/embroidery machine Poolin EC05 4”x9.25” ~€589-800 Affordable, decent hoop size, limited width Poolin EC06 7”x11” ~€1400 Bigger hoop, worth saving up for Janome Memory Craft 400E 7.9"x7.9" ~€1000-1200 Dedicated embroidery-only, high-quality Final Thoughts: Choose Based on Your Projects
    If your primary focus is customizing clothing and accessories with your own designs, aim for a machine that:
    Accepts your file formats
    Has a hoop large enough for hoodies and jean pockets
    Can handle thick layers and small areas (like collars)
    Even if snapbacks are trickier at first, you can always grow into it — many creators start simple and upgrade later.
    What’s Next?
    Explore second-hand deals or seasonal discounts
    Start learning digitizing software — it’ll unlock your creative potential
    Join embroidery forums and subreddits for support and inspiration
    And remember: whatever machine you choose, the real magic comes from you — the artist behind the stitches.

    Cursed Totoro? Solving Embroidery Tension Issues with Thread Tips

    By diver361, in Machine embroidery materials and technology, , 0 comments, 509 views
    When Totoro Goes Wrong: Thread Tension Troubles in Machine Embroidery
    A Stitch Too Far: The Cursed Totoro Incident
    If you've ever looked down at your embroidery mid-stitch and gasped at the unholy creature being born beneath your needle — you’re not alone. One user recently shared their struggle with a “cursed Totoro,” complete with red bobbin thread showing through where it definitely didn’t belong. While their choice of bobbin color made the issue vividly clear, the real culprit turned out to be a classic embroidery challenge: thread tension imbalance.

    Tug of War: Top Thread vs. Bobbin Thread
    Think of embroidery tension as a tug-of-war. Your bobbin thread and top thread are constantly fighting for control — ideally meeting somewhere in the middle of your fabric. But when that balance is off, it shows. Literally.
    If your bobbin thread is showing on top, two things could be going wrong:
    Your top thread tension is too tight (it’s winning the tug too easily).
    Your bobbin tension is too loose (it’s not pulling its weight — pun intended).
    In our Totoro tragedy, the bright red bobbin thread overpowering the white top thread was a telltale sign of tension trouble.
    Diagnosing Tension Issues: Rule of Thumb?
    Here’s what experienced stitchers recommend:
    Try adjusting one thing at a time. Start with the top tension. Loosen it slightly and stitch a single letter (like an “I” or “H”) as a mini test.
    If that doesn’t help, check your bobbin tension. Many bobbin cases have a tiny screw — a quarter turn tighter may be all you need.
    Always make sure your bobbin is threaded and inserted correctly. It should pull the thread in a lowercase "p" shape — “p” for put it in!
    Secret Weapon: The Tension Gauge
    Not sure how much is too much tension? Enter the tension gauge — a handy tool that lets you measure the tension on both your bobbin and top thread. These come in both analog and digital versions and are surprisingly affordable.
    Madeira’s website offers a range of options, but you can also find similar tools on Amazon and other online embroidery suppliers. For beginners, a cheaper analog gauge does the trick just fine.

    Bonus Tip: Thread Weight Matters!
    Another often-overlooked culprit in tension chaos? Mismatched thread weight.
    In this case, the red bobbin thread appeared to be heavier than the top thread, which made it more dominant and harder to keep hidden. Make sure to:
    Match thread weight where possible.
    Check the labels — most threads have their weight printed on the spool.
    If unsure, eyeball the thickness and avoid big mismatches unless you're experienced.
    One Last Word on Color…
    Yes, the red bobbin thread was used on purpose to make the issue easier to spot — but it’s worth noting that matching thread colors (or at least coordinating them) makes a big difference in how forgiving your stitch-outs will look.
    And hey — winding bobbins might be annoying now, but it gets easier with time. Promise.
    Conclusion: Don’t Curse Your Totoro Just Yet
    Embroidery is a beautiful mix of art and precision, and every “cursed Totoro” is just another learning step on the journey. With a little patience, a few tension tweaks, and maybe a tension gauge or two, you’ll be on your way to creating embroidery magic — not mayhem.

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